clear over dye/stain. jarrod?

Hey guys. I was lucky enough to score the spalty lp with the chip on it today. I wanted to timber mate the hole which is right near the binding, stain the whole thing, spray a thin burst around the edge then clear it. I have a fair bit of 2k clear here, just wondering what stain or dye would be ok under the 2k. In Harrods vid he dyed the tks, then airbrushed a burst, finally clearing with acrylic.
If I understand correctly, which is probably not, then if you can acrylic clear something, then 2k clear should be sweet. The product I'm using is debeers which I got with 1k colours for another project from an auto paint rep at paint place in mackay.
Basically, should I use dye or stain, and any brands? Thanks.

In jarrods vid. Damn phone auto correct.

In my jazz guitar project I used Feast Watson stain on the timber and acrylic clear over - use a very fine mist coat of clear the first few times - if you go too heavy, too soon, then you risk reaction between the clear and whatever is under it. Clear coats are notorious or being more reactive

Thanks mate. How do you think 2k clear would go? Did you let the stain dry for any longer than normal?

2pk clear will go over alot of different finishes. 2pk will even go over old acrylic. Just not the other way round. I use the stewmac colortone dyes.

That's awesome, thanks mate. Would the feast Watson prooftint work?

Basically I want to achieve a finish similar to this but with a thinner burst and a very slightly tinted stain. That stew Mac stuff looks incredible though, just looking for something a little closer to home.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...vin-IV-013.JPG

Do you think this would turn out similar to the guitar above? Dye to top black, sand back to pop the grain, sanding sealer, airbrush the burst then clear it? I found an Australian brand of water based dye called u beaut.
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/dye.html

They also do a sanding sealer.

I used dark teak FW Prooftint and acrylic over, no problems as long as the first coats are misty light. I let it cure for a week before clear - seemed to work fine

Yeah awesome. How did the grain come up? Nice and flat or did it still have some texture? Tossing up whether I'll need sanding sealer. Will defs need to timber mate the mahogany but want to make sure I screw up the spaltwd top as little as possible.