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Hi guys,
I realise this is probably a community that is dominated by electric players, but I figured I'd post this thing here anyway, since it also includes some questions about finish, modification and general hardware.
I've got a 1991 Seagull SM-6 (spruce hog), it's in good condition cosmetically save a few things. It plays well (and sounds really, really good) but I want to try and set it up myself to get it playing even better. I've already started to a degree - and with some things I am less certain about, I have a sentimental-value-but-terrible-to-play guitar to practice on first.
I've already adjusted the truss rod myself - one little thing I like to do is set the relief to cut some excess of the high E and use that as a gauge if you are strapped for cash (as I very much am). I've attached a picture to show where the relief is at, in case anyone wants to comment on whether it's still too much.
The neck doesn't look straight - which gives me cause for concern. It sinks into the sound hole - however the bracing is still in place. The top of the neck also looks like it is slanting upward - but I seem to find that on every acoustic I have played. I can't say I have played a certifiably well-setup guitar though. However, the neck relief measurement is fine, and so is the first fret action. For that I like to push down the third or fourth fret and then push down at the first fret to see if it clicks. I've attached the picture of the sinking soundhole. You can see the fretboard curls down-ward.
Before I go into more drastic repairs for that problem (raising the body or adjusting the neck angle) I am going to try and increase the humidity in the case and see how that affects things. If worse comes to worst the neck angle will probably be done by a pro - but since it is a bolt-on neck, it's just a sanding job at the heel.
Some things I need help are on minimizing cosmetic damage/chips to the guitar. The guitar is finished in what I believe is nitro - but the finish is really thin and worn. There is a chip down the bottom end of the soundboard - which has penetrated the finish and also slightly into the wood. I expect it is from a case lid slamming shut and has been there since before I got it. How would you go about filling this in, would simply applying a finish over it and leveling it suffice? I tried to photograph it as best as I could with a flash.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...neckrelief.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...gfretboard.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...FinishWood.jpg
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Some other cosmetic things I'd like to have a go at removing (since I really like the guitar) are purely cosmetic and in-the-finish only, such as pick marks (not mine since I can't use a pick), and an unknown bump that causes a white mark in the finish. Are these worth repairing, and if so what do you think would be the best approach?
Another problem the guitar has that I am not so sure about is the playing surface. The playing surface is pretty grimey, and also looks very dry. When I get a set of spare strings (since I play it regularly and the strings won't survive another tune up), I'm going to clean the fretboard and then try to remedy the dryness.
I've got some 0000 steel wool. Would taking that to the fretboard to clean the gunk off (and also polish up the frets a little) be a bad idea? And if so, what should I use instead? In terms of the dryness, I was just going to apply a fretboard conditioner like Ax Wax but I am wondering if there is something I should do first for such a dry board? For example, the body has some distilled water sitting in it.
I'm going to replace the saddle and nut, because I believe they are the stock Macarta from the 90s. There are a few problems though. The first being that they appear to be either extremely tight or glued on. Does anyone have tips for removing them, even though I am not interested in saving them? My most recent attempt on the saddle (to try lower it), resulted in my pliers sliding off the material.
The other problem with this is that I am not sure where I can get a suitable nut, because of the slightly wider neck (and I can't slot a nut myself). Does anyone know where I could get soemthing like this done? And as for the saddle - I can try out some slightly oversized bone, or I can go for a blank and compensate from there (since the intonation is a bit out on the B as I go up the neck, for example). Otherwise there is that Colosi guy who makes saddles to seagull spec, but I am looking at quite a pricey shipping on that
Thanks guys for any help. My apologies for the bad and possibly alarming pictures.
Chris.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...ckmarksetc.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...rkInFinish.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...GrimeBoard.jpg
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Chris, what state are you in?
I would strongly suggest that you attend an acoustic guitar building course before you attempt so many repairs and setups. acoustics are not as forgiving as electrics are. You may also find that the time needed to effect some of the changes will surprise you. For example, if you have never shaped a nut before, this can easily take up to 40 minutes. Do you have the right tools to shape the nut, cut the string channels and in the appropriate position too or are you going to try and copy the existing nut? You also have to be very carefull removing the nut if it is glue in as it is not uncommon to damage the freboard when attempting this.
You are on the right track with many things though, for example the 0000 will work perfectly well in removing the gunk on the fretboard and then using Ax Wax will make it come up like new.
Humidity is always a biggie, especially when it comes to repairs and gluing anything. You have to get this right and most importantly you need the proper tools.
For example, before attempting the repair, are you sure you know what is causing the problem? Often the reason for the fretboard bending into the soundhole is no cause for concern since you don't really play the notes that far up the fretboard. Sometimes its impossible to play unless you have a cutaway. It may be bending into the soundhole because the builders ignored the humidity rule when gluing the fretboard to the neck and soundboard!
Removing a bolt on neck is sometimes a misnomer. Yes it is referred to as a bolt on, but the fretboard will almost assuredly be GLUED to the soundboard, and in most cases will be glued to the body of the guitar too. The term bolt on simply refers to the fact that it is not a dovetail joint. You then need proper equipment to melt the glue and steam the neck off.
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Hi Gav, I am in WA.
I don't have the tools for cutting the nut and was planning to have an experienced person do the nut for me from the existing nut.
RE: The fretboard issue, I am not sure what is causing the problem, but I suspect it is tension related and due to either the neck angle being slightly wrong (subject to further testing) or the bridge pulling the soundboard up slightly.
The curvature at the belly matches the spec'd radius, though.
Thanks for the info.
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The Dr Ducks arrived today and I went straight at it. Easy.
There are quite a few tiny "cracks" where the grain has expanded (wood fibers shrunk I guess) on the fretboard. Hopefully after some TLC it'll shape up to how it should be. Gave the same treatment to the bridge (minus the steel wool).
Stunning difference for such an easy process. Unfortunately my nut and saddle blanks aren't here yet, and I somehow snapped a string tuning back up to DAC#G#AE, probably a problem with the old saddle. Only one set of new strings and I'm going to keep them fresh for my new nut/saddle.. May get a cheapie.
I tried briefly to pull the saddlee out, but my pliers kept slipping. Any tips? The next option is to cut into it when the replacement arrives and yank it out. I'm not sure if it is glued in or not, any solutions there? The nut is glued in place, but as far as I know that is a common practice for this price point and it's just a matter of pushing that badboy out.
I also managed to get rid of the mark in the finish on the side of the body with my steel wool without it showing up on the rest of the finish.
The Ax wax came with some plectrums too. I've never owned one before haha.
All in all thumbs up so far.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...7-IMGP8812.jpg
Edit: disregard I got it out! :D
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http://a.pomf.se/fjratw.jpg
So the saddle fits now and I have the rough intonation going. I am going to leave it there for now. Most of the strings are about 5 cents off (according to this strobe tuner) at fret twelve, with the exception of the compensated string which is only 1 cent off.
I can't really comment on the guitars tone change at the moment because these are fresh strings, I haven't had the opportunity to compare and my fingernails were cut right off about a week ago and I am looking for a suitable set of finger-pick to replace them. I am also not sure how I feel about the new strings (coming from bronze roundcores to coated PB hex and also up a gauge).
For sake of posting some audio, here we are. https://app.box.com/s/1zs6weznz1txpdolxz72 Capo on 3.
Naturally I need to say I am not a guitarist, this was really rushed (sorry for the bad timing) and I feel very out of my comfort zone without my nails. My pick work (first section only) should be taken as an example of that - I've never really used a pick before. Also, I really hate mono recordings of acoustic guitar, but I didn't feel like getting a spaced pair out for something that is just supposed to be a "chords sound in tune enough for now" kind of deal... The lowest string is the most out, but still seems "ok" 8O
I've decided to put the nut aside as well, because of how long it took me to file through this camel shin.
Thanks everyone...
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Duplicate (I'm coming for you wokka)
