Guitar of the Month - November 2012

LP-1 in blue stain, with contrasting back and sides.

By Nick Cass from Echuca, Victoria.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...02nd5-Nov1.jpg http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...5m268-Nov3.jpg http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...27k1j-Nov4.jpg

Nick says:

I used 2 base coats of black dye (water based) then sanded back till near bare, then 6 coats of blue colortone stain from Stewmac, slightly less in the middle.

I then sanded back slightly again before another 2 coats of blue. A light sanding of 1200 grit before acrylic clear coat (6 coats) and a cut and polish.

The neck and back is a maple proof tint. The only problem was the filler used on the body would not take the stain as you can see some spots on the edges (near the binding) and a spot on the back. Overall happy with the whole kit and now the end result.

Nice one Nick!

Been dying to see how the colour tone products looked, man, that is nice..
Love the contrast too, something a bit different to the norm.

Did you use Timber Mate wood filler? I have been using it for ages and have not had any dramas with stains etc not adhering or penetrating....yet...

A well deserved winner! :D

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Quote from adam on November 8, 2012, 20:58
LP-1 in blue stain, with contrasting back and sides.

By Nick Cass from Echuca, Victoria.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...02nd5-Nov1.jpg http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...5m268-Nov3.jpg http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...27k1j-Nov4.jpg

Nick says:

I used 2 base coats of black dye (water based) then sanded back till near bare, then 6 coats of blue colortone stain from Stewmac, slightly less in the middle.

I then sanded back slightly again before another 2 coats of blue. A light sanding of 1200 grit before acrylic clear coat (6 coats) and a cut and polish.

The neck and back is a maple proof tint. The only problem was the filler used on the body would not take the stain as you can see some spots on the edges (near the binding) and a spot on the back. Overall happy with the whole kit and now the end result.

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Hi Nick

Well done! Looks great.

Like Dingobass, I am wondering what filler you used. This information would be handy for others to know and hence a product to avoid with acrylic finishes. I use Timber Mate as well. But I know my friends from ALS use epoxy on their porous wood as a filler, but it has to be applied very carefully with a razor blade otherwise disaster!

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Hi Nick

Well done! Looks great.

Like Dingobass, I am wondering what filler you used. This information would be handy for others to know and hence a product to avoid with acrylic finishes. I use Timber Mate as well. But I know my friends from ALS use epoxy on their porous wood as a filler, but it has to be applied very carefully with a razor blade otherwise disaster!

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Epoxy?!, wow, I never put epoxy anywhere near my builds... but as Dmac once said, every one has thier own ways of doing stuff and if it works it is right..

I always seal and harden soft top timbers such as Spalts and Quilts with super glue. After this treatment I can get an almost mirror finish before I put a finish coat on.
Any colours I may use I mix into the finish.

Indeed, I was suprised but certainly forewarned when one of the over eager students on the guitar building course started 'epoxy-filling' his guitar body. It hardened way quicker than he anticipated resulting in many hours of trauma on his side to remove the lumps that remained on his finish. I promptly discarded any thoughts of doing the same and eventually found the Timbermate solution.

Hi there guys, thanks for the positive replies. The filler was already on the body when i got it, mainly around the binding, Lead Jack and on the back. I suppose i was just unlucky with the body, but in saying that it will remind me that i have made it myself and adds character to it. for the price im most impressed at the quality of these kits overall and will definantley be doing another 2 or 3(wait till the wife finds out). Anyway thanks for the help again guys, and look forward to learning lots more of everyone on here.

Nick

Maybe this is something Adam could possibly find out for us. Really should not find that the body wouldn't absorb the paint. Adam?

Maybe this is something Adam could possibly find out for us. Really should not find that the body wouldn't absorb the paint. Adam?

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Quote from ncass81 on November 9, 2012, 14:31
Hi there guys, thanks for the positive replies. The filler was already on the body when i got it, mainly around the binding, Lead Jack and on the back.

Nick

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Ok, I had a few spots like that on mine too.... I sanded the filler back till I got down to bare timber again and did not worry about filling. I guess I was lucky that the filler was quite shallow.

Even so, you have a really classy guitar there with heaps of character. Who knows, it may help you to not be a crap player! :D....

Can't wait to see what you come upwith in the future.

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Quote from dingobass on November 9, 2012, 16:30

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Quote from ncass81 on November 9, 2012, 14:31
Hi there guys, thanks for the positive replies. The filler was already on the body when i got it, mainly around the binding, Lead Jack and on the back.

Nick

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Ok, I had a few spots like that on mine too.... I sanded the filler back till I got down to bare timber again and did not worry about filling. I guess I was lucky that the filler was quite shallow.

Even so, you have a really classy guitar there with heaps of character. Who knows, it may help you to not be a crap player! :D....

Can't wait to see what you come upwith in the future.

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Same here on the LP-1 I put together (the one in the Welcome Video). There's something about the process of making these kits that leads to the need for filler. Perhaps its in the mounting of the flame maple veneer on the top. The way I see it, the customer has two options:

1. Sand back the factory filler and re-fill with better quality product that won't show through under a translucent finish. Or,

2. Paint the back and sides in a solid colour.

I think the latter option is the way to go. The wood grain on the back and sides of these kits is not that exciting and looks to be more functional than aesthetic.

I guess we need to use our skills to get the very best out of the kits they supply. Of course, that doesn't mean we accept poor workmanship or mistakes.