Wax finishes for your guitar
Wax finishes on guitars are a durable and economical way to bring out the grain and to protect the timber.
With patience you can achieve a semi gloss finish that will enhance your Guitar or Bass.
Wax finishes do require the occasional reapplication but if done properly the first time all you will need to do is apply a thin coat and buff it with a soft cloth.
There are several schools of thought when it comes to the neck, I don't oil the neck, all I do is sand down to 1500 grit and apply a thin layer of wax and buff.
Other folk prefer not to treat the neck but allow the natural oils from thier hands to do the job.
As long as the guitar is not allowed to get hot and dry out too much you should not have any problems with warping or cracking. In hot climates I prefer to wax the neck just in case.
Materials needed.
[*]A good quality furniture wax, (I use Disney's Bee Pure Beeswax Polish) Any good hardware store should have this or a similar product. Make sure that the wax you use has only Beeswax and Turpentine as it's ingredients.
[*]Triple boiled Linseed oil, or Tongue oil.
[*]Gum Turpentine, a natural product that won't poison you or leave an unpleasant smell. ( not required if using Tongue oil)
[*]Sand paper, 80, 120, 300, 400, 600 and 800 grit. 3M no fill paper is the best as it lasts a long time and wont clog.
[*]Cork or rubber sanding block.
[*]Steel wool, Sifa brand 0000 super fine is ideal. Do not use steel wool that is used for scrubbing pots.
[*]Soft cloth, old t shirts work very well or non lint cotton is best.
[*]Surgical or Nitrile rubber gloves
The process.
Sanding.
Sanding is the most important part of any successful finish!
Starting with the coarse and working your way up to the finest paper, always sanding with the grain.
In most cases you will only need to use the 120 through 800 grit as most kits are already sanded down to 120 grit. (There may be a few deeper scratches that require 80 grit to remove)
When sanding flat surfaces, wrap your paper around the sanding block and make sure to sand evenly across the entire body.
This will prevent dips in the surface that will spoil the end result.
When you have worked up to the 800 grit, it is a good idea to get a damp cloth and wipe the guitar down.
When dry, you will notice that there is a fine fuzz on the surface. This is cased by the ends of grains sitting up.
Sand with the 800 then wipe down again and repeat a few times.
On most timbers you will achieve a semi gloss and very smooth surface.
Oiling.
This is the next important step. Oiling the timber gives an extra level of protection and helps to prevent splitting, warping and excessive drying.
Half fill a jam jar with the triple boiled linseed oil and top up to ¾ full with the gum turpentine. Screw the lid on and shake until well mixed. This is your “cut” mixture.
With a soft cloth, rub a liberal amount of oil into the timber. Allow this to sink in for 10 minutes and repeat.
Usually 3 – 4 applications are enough with the cut oil mix. Leave this to cure over night.
Next apply a coat of straight linseed oil. Again leaving 10 minutes or so between coats. 2- 3 coats should be enough. Leave to cure over night.
If you use Tongue oil, there is no need to cut it, and the application of 4-5 coats is enough.
Waxing.
Cut a piece of steel wool ( 50mm length) and apply a good smear of wax.
Apply with a circular motion working your way along the body with the grain. Cover about a 10 cm square area and allow to dry off slightly and buff off with a clean piece of steel wool.
Keep working your way around the body, using a fresh piece of steel wool for each section.
When you have covered the body allow to dry for ½ hour before repeating.
3- 4 coats of wax will be enough to achieve a nice semi gloss as well as bringing out the figure of the timber. Leave this to harden overnight.
Finally, apply the last coat with a soft cloth and buff. The more you buff the better the finish.
Happy waxing!
Phil.
