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This is becoming habit forming - next one on the way. :cool:
Just ordered this one - https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...-kit-7-string/
The plan on this is quite simple, solid colour, satin black or gun metal grey, no upgrades at all, looks simple with most of the electronics pre-installed - not sure yet on the neck but will be a satin finish as well.
Looking forward to learning how best to set it up with the floyd rose bridge and locking nut - should be fun.
Cheers Grant
Received the kit a couple of weeks, back. Really tidy and no issues at all with this one. Loving the neck on this one as well.
The plan for this one is pretty simple, is a build for my son, he's always wanted a 7 string. Black body, maybe satin finish and a nice rich timber colour satin for the neck.
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Work done so far, body was sealed with sanding sealer, 3 coats, sanded nice and smooth, then using rattle cans, primer surfacer, 3 coats all sanded flat, 3 coats acrylic black final coat sanded flat. 3 coats clear gloss, sanded 3rd coat flat, 3 more coats of clear, ready to do final buffing.
The plan is to sand flat using 2000 and then 3000 then using cutting compound and bring up the shine.
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Neck is done, frets leveled and polished.
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Very nice.
I am about to commence finishing off this one, got the bridge in place (certainly not set up yet), tuners fitted to neck, wanting to bolt the neck on next. Started searching for scale lenght for this one, from what I have researched - 26.5", however this one appears to be clser to 25.5. 647.7mm.
So from nut to 12th fret = 324mm - should i be aiming for 648mm scale length.
I think I answered my own question, plus just read one of Simon's posts from a couple of days ago.
The neck is invading the pick up pocket now, so a little juggling to do I think.
Yes, you don’t want the neck in the pocket itself. 25.5” scale length. It’s on the kit info page. The intonated position for E4 will be very slightly longer by maybe 0.3 to 0.5mm.
As I mentioned in that other post, check the saddle positions on the bridge. Use the high E4 string position to measure the scale length (nut ‘slot’ to saddle). If necessary bring the high E4 saddle as far forward as it will go to achieve the scale length (though I prefer to have it slightly back from fully forwards if possible when setting bridge position, but in this case it’s the neck that can be moved but that is very uncommon). Ideally the end of the neck should go level with the pocket edge, so as the bridge post holes are pre-drilled, you’re really seeing whether the saddle positions can be adjusted to suit.
You might need a mixture of cardboard supports, tape and blu tac to hold the FR in place so you can measure scale length accurately.
Calling this one, done, all stock parts from the kit. Ended up locking the bridge in place, was a bugger to tune. This one was built for my son, he was not wanting the trem type bridge so no loss locking it. This was a really simple kit to put together, everything went together well.
With the neck I stained, sanded it back, then wipe on poly to seal it.
The body, auto paints rattle can acrlyic with about 5 coats of clear and polished up. I am thinking a few more coats of clear would have been ideal when using rattle cans as it takes a lot of buffing and polishing, wet sanding etc to get it smooth, I felt I was getting close to removing the clear. But sounds good, son loves it.
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Looks great. The black and white colour combo on the fretboard and the body goes really well. Nice work.
Yes, very well done.
I'd let the strings settle and then maybe have another try with the trem. It's important to get the bridge plate parallel with the body for tuning stability, but all-new strings never help.