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Thought I'd better have another go after previously dismally failing to work out how to attach photos.
I wish to dye the body of my AST-1SB "Thinline" but I'm concerned about any repairs popping out after applying the dye.
The photo shows a missed edge at the binding but there are less conspicuous chips at the bottom edge of the body.
Any advice on how, or if, I can invisibly repair these areas would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Hi Keith.
There are at least a few options to repairing that, but I don't know any of them would truly be invisible. However, I think it can be done in a way that will significantly reduce how obvious it is. It would be good to know what you're thinking in terms of colour scheme. A darker colour will be easier to blend or hide IMO.
Any kind of wood filler like Timbermate or similar is not going take up the dye/stain the same as the veneer, and generally appears a darker shade of whatever the dye colour is. Again, depending on the colour choice, this may or may not be a big issue.
You could possibly try and glue in a slice of similar veneer and that might blend in okay. It would be worth testing the dye on whatever the veneer is first to see how it reacts.
Another option, which I think I would do myself, is to go ahead and dye the top and allow the dye to get into the gap. Once dry, do a drop-fill with CA glue into the gap. Scrape and sand back the cured CA, then apply whatever clear coat you're planning.
The CA glue dries clear and will allow what ever colour is under it to be seen through it (like a piece of glass would). Cured CA will accept any finish over the top of it: lacquer, polyurethane etc.
I'm sure others will have advice for you as well, and one of the suggestions will be the one that's right for you!
Thanks McCreed, I like the idea of staining first then doing a drop fill.
The plan is for a green body, not sure how a spalted maple veneer will take but I'd like to give it a go. I'm thinking now that a darker green would be the go.
I'm feeling a bit more confident now with your advice.
Cheers
Cheers Keith.
I reckon there'll be others dropping in with their input too. Always good to have options and choose what sounds most suitable to your project. Looking forward to seeing how you go!
Personally I think a spalted veneer is wasted on anything other than a clear or slight amber tint finish. I've seen spalt tops that have been stained a colour, and it takes away a lot of the detail. But that's just my opinion.
Does the binding move at all if you press it i.e. can you push it in so it touches the body? If so, probably after heating it up a bit with a hairdryer to make it more flexible, you could probably glue it back in place, using tape to hold it in place whilst it dries. You could use ether acetone (which will melt the binding slightly) or some CA. I'd probably use thick CA as it has a longer working time, despite being a bit harder to get in the gap. Definitely mask off the body first to avoid getting glue or gunk on the top or sides.
One other option is to get a small bit of black binding, melt it in a bit of acetone so it's like a thick paste, and fill the gap with it (mask off the edges of the body first). It will dry hard and then you can sand the binding back to restore the curve to its intended shape.
Thanks for your input Simon, I've been in been in touch with Ben Pettit at Pit Bull and he's sending me a new kit on Monday. I'm really impressed with the after sales service, can't ask for better than that.
The problem with this one is the veneer, it's been over cut because you can see the main body underneath and there is zero movement on the binding.
I'm interested in your comment regarding clear or amber tint finish rather than colour staining, you wouldn't know where I can see a finished body with a clear or slight amber finish would you?
"I'm interested in your comment regarding clear or amber tint finish rather than colour staining, you wouldn't know where I can see a finished body with a clear or slight amber finish would you"
Hi Keith O,
my LP-1SS (linked in my signature) has a spalted maple top and is coated in tru-oil. The body is mahogany (coated in DT nullabor Ochre - but it did not change the colour much! and then tru-oil).