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I recently picked up an IB-6S, and there is no binding between the spalted top and the body. I looked at build diaries and see where 2 different types of stain or color were used between the top and the body, but can't get a good visual of the parting line. Anybody have close-up photos, and a technique to create a sharp line with dye or stain? Thanks.
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I am not sure if this is what you mean. But on this headstock I have used 3m green tape to prevent the colour from bleeding through.
Important is to sand the guitar to a fine grid like 600, to minimise scratches that would allow the dye still to travel to the otherside.
Also you would want to burnish the tape down, running it on the wood with something like the back of a screwdriver.
If you are going for a solid colour spray paint, you can spray a layer of acrylic clear first so the tape line is sealed.
Hope this helps.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...223e0a8f65.jpg
I have not not seen this before. I agree with Rocknrolf ideas with tape.
Alternatively - You could also tape the sides, add a few layers of Tru-oil (or ??) to the spalted top, then stain the sides and back, then tru-oil sides and back. If the spalted top is coated in finish it should stop the chances of stain getting onto it.
Other suggestions:
Create a fake binding look by taping a strip along the side of the body. I think someone else created a fake binding by routing a round edge between the side and top (or back).
Definitely think Trevor's idea with the true oil over spalted is a good idea if you want to keep a clear look on the spalted top.
If not you are going to rely on the tape more heavily.
Its a decently clean line. I couldn't see carving on it to make the line defined. I was talking to my local car body guy, and they have a tape called Clean Line, or something like that. I'll talk to him tomorrow about its applications.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6d37499222.jpg
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Sheet metal isn’t porous, so almost any tape will give a decent clean edge on a car body (though I expect it’s a vinyl tape like the 3M pin-striping tape). With wood, its porous nature means that any fairly wet fluid can soak under tape a bit and create a feathered edge.
I’d be very tempted to use a tinted spray rather than a wiped-on finish, as it will be a lot easier to maintain a clean edge. Just spray the first coats fairly dry before changing to wet coats.
As Simon said, wood is porous. stain applied to raw timber will want to bleed a bit, or a lot... depending on how tight the grain is. some of the stains will also , if left long enough will stain plastic (as some of the guys dealing with binding can attest to. I f the stain if persistant enough to stain plastic thwn you may be able to seal the timber first , and rather than the timber being stained, the sealer takes up the stain, in which case masking may be more effective. The alternative is to seal the timber with a clear and then use tape and candy colours so you still see the grain.
For anyone that wants to know......I used blue masking tape to create the lines. The sharpness of the line has everything to do with application technique.
I used a cloth to stain the wood. After soaking the cloth in the stain, I started in the middle, away from the tape line. Once majority of the stain was used from the cloth, I would lightly blot in the tape line. That way it's easy to control, and you don't get any drops or bleeding. Almost looks like a glued binding. Getting clearcoat from here. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ec2956c80f.jpg
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3M's tape is called "Fine Line". Other vendors offer their own versions.
At least try to purchase from a well known tape company. There are several.
I found the tamiya 6mm model tape provided a good clean edge. Better than masking tape from BunningsQuote:
Originally Posted by Gunut75
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