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Just got my kit in the mail today, and checking through everything I noticed that the Grover 406C locking tuners have some different markings on them. Four are labeled A°, one has C°, and one D°.
My question is: do the differently labeled ones need to hold certain strings, and if so which goes with which? It's for a tele style build, so inline.
In that set, the tuners are all the same. I think the labels indicate the assembly line the tuners came from, so any faults can be traced back for QC purposes.
As long as you’ve been sent the 6-inline set (rather than the 3+3 version), you can just fit them in any position.
Excellent, thanks!
They are the inline set, and they otherwise look identical, so that sounds like it must it.
You can get some tuners with staggered height posts, and they will normally have some stickers on to indicate which tuners have low, medium or high posts (and it’s normally obvious just by looking) but that’s not the case here.
I’d fit and get the tuner nuts tightened reasonably tight, then get the tuners as straight as possible before marking the positions for the anti-rotation screws and drilling their pilot holes. Sob’t try and fit the screws without pilot holes as the maple is hard and you can damage or even break off the screw heads if you try it without holes.
Yep, they're all the same height too so no differences there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Noted. Thanks.Quote:
I’d fit and get the tuner nuts tightened reasonably tight, then get the tuners as straight as possible before marking the positions for the anti-rotation screws and drilling their pilot holes. Sob’t try and fit the screws without pilot holes as the maple is hard and you can damage or even break off the screw heads if you try it without holes.
I don't know about Simon, but more than couple of us here have learnt this the hard way :mad:...Quote:
Don’t try and fit the screws without pilot holes as the maple is hard and you can damage or even break off the screw heads if you try it without holes.
I was lucky and the head twisted off leaving just enough screw to grab with some flush end nippers to back it out, then eventually to a point where I could get pliers on to it.
I've seen others that weren't so fortunate and ended up having to drill multiple holes around the broken screw to extract it, then drill out the little holes to make one big one, plug that hole and drill for the that little barsterd screw again!
So the take away is... pilot holes!
And not too small a hole either. Thickness of the central shaft of the screw or just under. Unlike vintage tuners where the screws hold the tuner in place, these screws are just to stop the tuner rotating against string tension when you wind a string on the tuner. So almost all the force on the screw is sideways, which is dealt with by the length of the screw in its hole. The threads just stop it coming loose and falling out.