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Hello,
I started my first build ever, I'm trying to do the mock build
Attachment 40572
I have a few questions, I need some help:
about the bridge what this screws are for?
Attachment 40573
the screw of the low E saddle does not fit into the hole, is it a problem?
Attachment 40574
the pickup doesn't fit in the hole, is it ok to dig in the signed spots?
Attachment 40575 Attachment 40576
the bridge big blocks doesn't fit well in holes, is it ok to use some candle wax to push it into?
Attachment 40577
when I start sanding and coloring I don't have to touch the neck bottom end (which I will have to screw on), am I right?
Attachment 40578
I hope not to annoy too much, thank you:D!
The TOM bridge post holes are usually set at an angle to the nut. Those screws are to adjust the angle of the TOM bridge for "fine tuning" the intonation. However they see excessively long to me.Quote:
I have a few questions, I need some help:
about the bridge what this screws are for?
That is not right. The intonation screws should move freely back & forth through the saddle(s). I would contact PBG if you can't get it to go in and travel properly.Quote:
the screw of the low E saddle does not fit into the hole, is it a problem?
That is a "dog ear" P-90 which is intended to be "flush mounted" (sitting on the top) not recessed into the hole.Quote:
the pickup doesn't fit in the hole, is it ok to dig in the signed spots?
The bridge post bushes (or bushings) are meant to be tight so they don't pull out too easily. It is not recommended to push them in during the mock build phase and typically only inserted after all the finishing process has been completed.Quote:
the bridge big blocks doesn't fit well in holes, is it ok to use some candle wax to push it into?
To temporarily insert them for mock build, neck alignment purposes etc, it's best to just wrap enough masking tape around the threads of the male screw part so that it will fit snuggly into the post hole. Just be sure to wrap the tape neatly and evenly to ensure the posts are not askew or off-centre.
Mostly yes. Typically you should only need to (lightly) sand the neck heel to smooth out any rough or loose fibres. You don't want to risk sanding too much that it effects the angle or shape of the heel.Quote:
when I start sanding and coloring I don't have to touch the neck bottom end (which I will have to screw on), am I right?
There are exceptions but I would only recommend experienced builders undertake anything more than just "cleaning up".
Hi Giacomo,
I have not built the kit, and still quite new to building guitar - so hopefully some better advice will come from the experts.
The bridge screws allow the position of the bridge to be adjusted to change string scale length to be adjusted for better intonation.
The low E saddle screw definitely needs to be able to go all the way in - is the screw damaged or is the hole damaged?
It is OK to open the bridge route a bit to get the pickup to sit nicely - a bit of filing or sanding in the corners as marked should do it.
The bridge posts are normally hammered in using a small block of wood after the body is finished. See you tube video (about 6 mins onwards) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dd_BZRUE0Ls.
The neck is a screw on? (The PB site shows it as a glue on!) If it is a screw on neck you do not need to sand and colour, you can if you want to. I always do though as it seals the wood. Do not sand it too much though. You do NOT put colour or finish on the neck heel if it is a glue on as the finish may prevent to glue from holding.
I hope this helps - and others will correct my mistakes or add to my advice.
LOL, McCreeds beats me again! I need to learn to type faster.
The bridge saddle adjustment screw is normally held in with a circlip to stop this happening. The small clip is obviously missing here and you need a new bridge from Pit Bull. Whilst you should be able to push the screw back in place, it makes any intonation adjustment much harder and the saddle is likely to move about.
As has been said, the long screws on the bridge are for crude intonation adjustment by moving the whole saddle backwards, in case the saddles don't have enough rearward movement when the bridge is sitting hard against the two posts. Hopefully you won't need to use these screws at all. If you don't, then I'd just remove them. If you do, it should only be by screwing the in one or two mm at most, so I'd cut them down to size after setting the guitar up.
The heel of bolt-on necks will almost always have finish applied to them, so light sand only, but then apply the same finish as you use on the rest of the neck. It's the heel pocket that normally doesn't get any finish applied to it, so you'd mask that off, maybe 2mm below the edges, so that the finish on the top just runs over the edge, which helps it adhere to the wood better. If you mask off right up to the edge, the finish on the edge becomes vulnerable and can chip-off easily.
The kit P-90 pickup should hopefully be the type that has the main pickup body with holes in the metal dog ears and a separate loose plastic cover that then fits over the body with matching holes in the dog ears. (Some kits have had P90s where the pickup body is glued to the cover and only the cover has the fixing holes). If the main body doesn't quite fit in the pickup rout, then yes, it's fine to remove some wood at the corners so it fits in properly and the metal ears sit flat on top of the body. As long as the hole still gets hidden by the plastic cover, you're fine. You just don't want to see the pickup rout with the cover on.
It may be that the pickup is prevented from sitting flush by the pickup cable. Sometimes the hole between the pickup rout and the control cavity is a bit high. So check that's not a problem, otherwise you'll need to find a way to lower the bottom of the cable hole by a few mm so the pickup sits flat.
Whilst I have knocked bridge bushings in using a hammer and a block of wood, I prefer to use a clamp to squeeze the bushing in. If you are doing it after the finish is applied, then there's less chance of the finish cracking around the hole, or the hammer or block slipping and you damaging the finish. But you need a G-clamp with a long throat and a decent gap between the jaws to do this. I recently bought a 200m deep G-clamp with a 85mm distance between the jaws for this purpose. Don't forget to put something soft against the rear of the guitar body before laying it down if you hammer the inserts in, and something soft and a thin flat block of wood to spread the load on the back if you press the inserts in.
And don't forget to fit the bridge grounding wire into the treble-side post hole before you finally fit the bushing.
Yes I have the backplate and screws, I think I can choose by screw on or glue it, but I'll mount it with screwsQuote:
The neck is a screw on? (The PB site shows it as a glue on!) If it is a screw on neck you do not need to sand and colour, you can if you want to.
it seems a bit high if I don't enlarge the cavity, isn't it?Quote:
That is a "dog ear" P-90 which is intended to be "flush mounted" (sitting on the top) not recessed into the hole.
Attachment 40604
I fixed the low E saddle, this little part had flown away, I put it back:D:
Attachment 40605
I guess next step is wiring and soldering!!!:eek:
Thanks for help and for your replies
Yes, that pickup rout needs enlarging!
Quote:
That is a "dog ear" P-90 which is intended to be "flush mounted" (sitting on the top) not recessed into the hole.
Ahhhh, didn't realise it sat that way from the first pic! So yes, needs the routing extended as Simon pointed out.Quote:
it seems a bit high if I don't enlarge the cavity, isn't it?
Once again, I misinterpreted the problem - D'oh!!! Glad you found the clip got that sorted.Quote:
I fixed the low E saddle, this little part had flown away, I put it back:
Hi,
I'm about to solder and wire, i think i will use this video as guide, is it good?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3RV1_0aYtc
I also checked the wiring diagram for JR1-DC from Pitbull guitars website, I didn't understand how do I solder the wire ground to bridge?
Thank you