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Hi all, just a question on my ESPM-1 build, we have stained, then applied 6 coats of Tru Oil, and it has come up with an amazing glossy shine, but grabs your hand on touch as most gloss finishes do, so i was going to finish with a wax top coat.
My question is, would it be best to do some light sanding with 1200 - 1500 grit before applying wax, or just go straight over the last coat without sanding?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
6 coats of tru oil doesn't sound like an awful lot if you get the sandpaper out.
I agree with JimC on that, but a couple of questions. How long have you allowed the Tru Oil to cure? And, how heavy were the coats?
It will need a bare minimum of 7 days before it has gassed off enough to where it will feel "slick" FLOABW. I don't mean it will still feel tacky in under 7 days, but it needs more time to harden and feel smooth in the hand IME.
I know you're only talking about sanding, but I give Tru Oil at least 14 days before I do a final wet sand/polish.
Also, 6-8 coats is about where I might think about a very light touch up with a synthetic sanding pad (aka synthetic steel wool or Scotch-Brite pad) and this is merely to de-nib the surface (remove any dust or debris that may be in the finish). I don't sand between every coat and, only sand lightly as described above, as needed.
The neck below is Mahogany with 24+ coats of Tru Oil, wet sanded and polished Micro-Gloss. It feels absolutely great in the hand, not grippy at all:
(Open to zoom) (note: neither are PBG kits)
Attachment 38946
This is an Alder body with 24+ also, same post finish treatment:
Attachment 38947
Thanks for the replies guys, yes i am waiting 14 days before i planned on giving it just a very light once over with 1500 grit before the wax coat, but i was not sure if it actually needed a light sand before the wax, i wanted to know if it was beneficial, or unwarranted...
24 coats of Tru-Oil, sure does look sweet, i might add a few more then...
When you wet sanded, what grade paper did you use?
I did those back in 2017, so my memory is a bit vague, but my procedure has not varied much in a number of years.Quote:
When you wet sanded, what grade paper did you use?
Based on that, I would have likely started with 1000 or 1200 wet/dry paper, then switched to my Micro-Mesh and worked up through 2000 > 2400 > 3200 > 3600 > 4000. Then hand polished with Micro-Gloss (1 micron liquid polish). Both of those products are manufactured by 3M.
Some will argue that going to 4000 is extreme or overkill, but it's what I do, and has served me well.
Tend to agree that 6 coats of TO is barely covered and only at the point where I would do a first wet sand with 1200 wet & dry.
Downside is that this will probably strip 3-4 of those coats off but you will be left with a much better foundation to add the next 6-8 coats and then do the 2nd wet sand, again with 1200. Do another 6 or so coats and switch up to 1500 wet & dry for 3rd wet sand then sit back and evaluate where things are at. If it looks good and feels OK maybe you could then continue with polishing otherwise add another 4 coats, do another 1500 wet sand, etc.
On all of mine I have gone as high as 2000 wet & dry and then switched to micro mesh pads that go all the way up to 12000. End result feels like a piece of glass and not at all grippy as most people would expect on such a high gloss finish. Part of my secret is using Nu Finish car polish just after the Meguiars ultimate cutting compound polish as that creates a beading effect on cars when wet helps things slide as the moisture level rises, ie just like sweaty hands on a neck.
If that is not your style you could always satin things up with 2000 grit and stop right there.
Cheers, Waz
McCreed, thank you for the advice, i will definitely add some more Tru-Oil coats, and then follow your procedure, those pictures speak for themselves, very much appreciated.
Waz, thank you for your reply, i am so glad i posted this question, both you and McCreed have outlined a procedure which i will definitely follow. Very much appreciated.