Neck screw + spring claw screws help!

Hello,

I'm starting assembly on a strat style kit and need help with the placement of the neck screws. I rounded the edge of the neck pocket heel on the back of the body so a standard plate wouldn't fit and the screw placement on one of those doesn't work (one of the screws would be placed on the curve).

I attempted to place the screws where I thought they would work. I moved one further into the body and towards the low e end. Would this layout work? My main concern is strength. I hope the pictures show the curve clearly.

Attachment 38439 Attachment 38440 Attachment 38441

Don't worry, I've got countersunk washers to go into the body.

Another issue I'm having is drilling and placing the tremelo claw screws. I'm finding it awkward to get the right angle with a drill and the holes I have drilled so far are too angled so when the screws are inserted, they stick upwards too much, not letting the cover sit flat. Any advice?

Neck screws should be fine. Just make sure the body holes are the same size as the screw diameter, so the screws can pull the neck down to the body properly.

For the trem claw, have you tried using a pin vice/vise? This sort of thing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-H...8108576&sr=8-5

As you are drilling by hand with those, I'd start with a small diameter drill and go up in size. I'd normally suggest using a 300mm long drill bit, which allows a much flatter angle to be achieved as there's no drill body in the way, but they generally don't go below 4mm in diameter, which would probably be too large. Or try a hand drill rather than an electric one, as they are far more compact.

Also carefully check the length of the neck screws and how deep they’ll sit in the ferrules/washers, particularly near the curve, to ensure they don’t end up poking out through the fretboard. Even the ‘short’ ferrule style screws can be a touch long at times.

Hand drill for trem claw, got this one as a child and it’s still useful:
https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...m_mount_09.jpg

Simon & WierdBits have both given good advice on both of situations.

I will just add to the claw screws issue.
Sutton Tools makes a 3.0mm x 300mm drill bit, but they are $27.50 for one bit (not incl. postage if you buy it online).
They also make a 3.0mm x 195mm bit (available at the BGS - HERE at $8.15. That's what I use and, like Weirdie, I use a manual hand drill.

I can achieve it with my electric drill (just) but the drill has to be run very slowly or the bit will wobble like buggery due it's length and narrow diameter. So, it's just as easy going old school. I can't imagine the 300mm in and electric drill!

Stewmac sell a long series 1/8", close enough to 3mm, drill for $11.29 plus postage. You can also use a bit of 1/4" / 6mm wood dowel and drill a hole in the end as close as possible to the centre and glue the drill in the end and use a hand drill so if it is off centre the slow speed should not be a problem. Just make sure it doesn't get too hot as the heat will degrade the glue and just take small depths at a time and clear the drill often so it doesn't put too much strain on the glue. I have made extensions for all sizes of drills out of 6 mm steel rod and silver soldered the bit into it but you can also use soft lead solder.

As for the wobble running the drill in a electric drill, I run 300mm long 3mm diameter drills in a milling machine at 6,000 rpm and don't have a problem. Either the drill is bent or the drill chuck is not running true or is damaged. I only use a battery electric drill to drill holes but to reduce the wobble dont start the drill unless the end is against the wood, even if you use a normal length drill by hand and twist it against the wood to give the drill a place to start there shouldn't be a problem. Just dont try to push it through the wood too hard and bend the drill.

Quote:

---

As for the wobble running the drill in a electric drill, I run 300mm long 3mm diameter drills in a milling machine at 6,000 rpm and don't have a problem. Either the drill is bent or the drill chuck is not running true or is damaged.

---

I think a 300mm bit in a hand drill drilling at a near horizontal angle might be a different story than vertically in a milling machine.

Quote:

---

I only use a battery electric drill to drill holes but to reduce the wobble dont start the drill unless the end is against the wood, even if you use a normal length drill by hand and twist it against the wood to give the drill a place to start there shouldn't be a problem. Just dont try to push it through the wood too hard and bend the drill.

---

I am also talking about a cordless electric drill, and know well enough not to start the drill before contacting the material being drilled as well as letting the bit do the work. Pretty much rule one with most any hand tool.

Ok, it looks like that hand drill would work nicely. Any recommendations of brands?

I can achieve it with my electric drill (just) but the drill has to be run very slowly or the bit will wobble like buggery due it's length and narrow diameter. So, it's just as easy going old school. I can't imagine the 300mm in and electric drill!

I am sorry but after reading your comment I thought you were having trouble with using such a long drill as you said you could not imagine using it in a electric drill. The orientation either horizontal or vertical wont make it wobble more in one direction than another but if it is bent, the shaft that is the chuck is damaged or held in a chuck that isn't in working order that will make it wobble but seeing as most cordless drills run about the 1500 rpm mark and I can run it at 6000 rpm then obviously there is something wrong with your setup. I have drilled a lot of holes with my drill using a cordless drill running it at 1500 rpm and it runs without any wobble.