Feast & Watson wipe on poly

Hi all , I’m a good way through my first build having dealt with all the usual learning curve dramas including sand back and starting again more than once[emoji1787]. Any way I thought I’d post a tip for using wipe on poly that I worked out through trial and error and also having read so many people complain it’s no good on the forum.

I started off with the same problems but now I think it’s great. Couple of tricks;
1. Wipe it on with a folded piece of chux style cleaning cloth;
2. Load the cloth with the poly (wet but not dripping);
3. Do a single pass of just overlapping straight lines.
4. Don’t go back over any of it. If there’s a problem sort it on the next coat
5. If find it best if the body is flat so I do the back and front as alternative coats and the sides every coat.

I haven’t polished or anything yet but this is how it looks at this point https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9e544f6dbb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f48af073db.jpg


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It is easier to blame a defenceless product for your lack of ability.

I found for doing large areas like the front and rear surfaces I use the Chux, which you get on a roll, I get a piece of cotton wool, either ball or 2, or you get it in a roll, and wrap the Chux around it and tie the loose end with cotton, the same as when you use a stain, as it holds enough to cover the whole face in one application. I use a bundled piece to finish off around the edge and as you said don't go back over a surface, so use a well lit area or use a light to see where you have applied the finish.

Been using this for years and I can get a glass finish on it but it is a learning process. You have to get your surface as flat as possible with filler and surface prep and I have found I no longer use any form of sandpaper once I start putting a finish on. I get by with only 3 coats which is enough to polish as long as your not heavy handed. I put 2 coats on and use a fine Scotch Brite, which is the same as 2500 grit wet and dry with my random orbital and by hand, as I found I didn't like the 0000 fine steel wool due to the bits that would sometimes get stuck in the surface if you pushed too hard, which is easy to do. Once I use the Scotch Brite I put a third coat on and its very smooth and I only then give it a final going over with the Scotch Brite to remove any dust imperfections.

I used to use a sponge rubber buff with cutting compound but found sometimes it was a little bit too harsh and now I just use a felt buff with some rouge compound. I have some circular ones I use on my random orbital sander and some round mops I can use in my drill but you have to make sure to use a low RPM as the worst thing is to generate too much heat and melt the finish. I do not understand anyone who puts 50 coats of finish on as that takes away from my playing time and you get the same results in a much shorter time.
The really good thing with this wipe on is you can do it at a much lower temp so its good for Winter jobs, takes less time to harden for polishing but I still use a brush on poly to go over my headstock decal as its quicker to cover the edge with a coat or 2. If the wood has an open grain I sometimes put on a single coat of brush on poly as it fills the surface better and then I use my Scotch Brite to flatten the surface before I put on 2 coats of wipe on.

I used to use car paint which I still use from time to time but conditions have to be right, above 15 degrees, whereas the wipe on can be used at 10 which sometimes during winter is the max temp but you can heat a small room with a small heater and there is no over spray so it can be used in a ventilated room and it really doesn't give off much of a smell so you can hang it in a room overnight. Its now my go to finish, its quick, durable, easy to apply as it needs no specialised or expensive tools, can be done when the temps are low, clean up is throwing out your water soaked Chux to reduce fire risk, can be done in a small area and when polished is just as good as any other more expensive finishes.