Pondering first build...

Not sure if this is the right place to post this (please advise or move to the right place if necessary!), but I'm pondering my first build.

I already know my way around my workshop, and have completed numerous furniture and random craft-type woodworking projects, so I'm pretty confident on the woodworking side of the house.

What I'm a little less sure about is the kind of tweaking necessary specifically to getting a musical instrument into condition - what kind of pitfalls should I watch for? Anything specific to PitBull kits? Anything general to all kit makers?

Also, regarding finishing... I'm thinking about one of the Thinline Tele kits. If I go with a dyed finish, how difficult is it to protect the binding from getting dyed? I'm thinking either a transparent green or orange finish, most likely...

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!

I think each kit has it's own peculiar issues, so it's hard to say until you decide on a kit style. There is such a wealth of amazing/useful information about (here on the forum and elsewhere on the net), so as long as you have the interest and some perseverance you should be fine.

Reading though the build diaries you'll see that there are a range of tasks specific to guitars (fret levelling, fret crowning, setting intonation, etc). You'll probably need to invest in some tools, but none are outrageously expensive - many can be made yourself in fact! I've just bought tools as I've needed them, so it spread out the spending.

There are a few ways to protect the binding. I've used tape a few times, and shellac twice. Again, it depends a little on what type of stain (water-based, or not). I've put water based stain on a guitar and ignored the binding completely - I just scraped it clean with a razor after. Spirit based stains are different, and will need masking of some sort.

Glue spots on veneers that stop stain being taken up by the veneer are a constant thorn in the side on any kit guitar. In a factory making lots of cheap guitar kits, you won't get the same level of attention and care as on expensive kits. Most glue spots can be removed with the right glue remover, as long as you find them all first by dampening the wood. But some are pretty stubborn, especially around the edges, and you may need to consider

There's no guarantee that you will get glue spots and many don't, but around the line joining the veneer pieces together and round the edges are the main areas to look for them. With veneer tops, it's more reliable to plan to use tinted clear lacquer rather than stain or dye.

But that almost always involves using nitro paint, which is both expensive and also nasty stuff to use, so you need to spray outdoors or in a well ventilated workshop. Not for spraying in your home.