Can you use wipe on Poly over Montana Gold?

[mattyeales]

Ive scoured the internet and cannot find much information regarding this.

Basically i've stained the back and sides, and want to paint the front a solid colour using Montana Gold as i see it has a good rep.

What i was then wondering is, can i use wipe on Poly (this one in particular http://www.bunnings.co.nz/norski-polyurethane-varnish-500ml-satin_p00279982) over top of the stain and the front?

Or should i poly varnish the sides and back, then when i do the front spray a clear on? Will this be level with the binding after it has been scrapped or do you use the poly over that too.

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated

[Tweaky]

I think any poly would be too thick to wipe on, well for any good results that is, maybe if you thinned it, then heated it slightly beforehand, you might get away with it.

If you want to wipe on a finish that has the same toughness as poly I'd take a look at this shellac additive that you can get, you just add a enough shellac at a 2 pound cut ratio to the bottle to make up 500ml of finish, this you can wipe on exactly as you do with shellac.
The beauty of it is that if you buy clear shellac, you can dye it, using alcohol soluble dyes, then add it to this hardener.

I bought some powdered alanine dyes, both white and blonde shellac flake and 100% alcohol from this Aus site.
I rekon being in NZ they wouldn't ship the 100% alcohol over to you, but the other items shouldn't be a problem [this is the ONLY place that I am aware of that sells this shellac hardener by itself, all other supplies are premixed with shellac, which might not be the colour you want]
Shellac hardener link below
http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/consumable/shellac-hardener

Shellac [a LOT cheaper than most places]
http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/consumable/shellacs-dry

Powdered dyes below
http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/consumable/dyes-aniline
If you buy the dye powdered, you can just make tests with powdered dye weight/ 100ml volume of 100% alcohol[or whatever meth's you are using] to get lesser or more intense colour, when you work out what shade you want, work out how much dye you will need to add to 450ml alcohol [well 4.5 X ], then add to the hardener....instant wipe on poly finish of the colour of your choice.

There are a few caveats with this though.
Damage the finish and it's a bugger to fix, unlike normal shellac.
It still takes around 3 weeks to cure to it's ultimate hardness..... but can be polished to a extremely high gloss, so no further coatings/spray is needed

[tonyw]

I am using Min Wax wipe on poly on my 12 string build, its going on really nice, and looking very nice.

[mattyeales]

Tony did you thin the coats out or just use as is from the Tin? im assuming you follow the same rules. Thin coats, plenty of dry time, then wet/dry sanding.

[tonyw]

Yep thin coats, a light wet sand 600 between coats, i put a tiny little bit of detergent in with the water and leave the paper in a jar, then go again, just using white cotton swabs and straight from the tin.

I was hoping to get more done today but its too humid, i have 3 coats on the top and 1 on the sides and back, the neck is just about done, needs just a little more work
9338

And the body left to dry after its second coat, its looking real good after 3 coats, i am aiming for 5 then i will check it over again.
9339

[wokkaboy]

looking good Tony, the body looks much more satin than the neck looks much glossier ?

[tonyw]

Body was wet there Wok, i used a gloss, being a satin man i thought why not change. Hopfully i can get some more done tomorrow andsome pics ,before i head of into the bush for the long weekend.

I will use Mequiras 3 step Chrystal when i do the final buff, but that aways away yet.

[mattyeales]

Nice, im planning on using Montana Gold spray on the front so hopefully the wipe on poly binds with it fine without reacting and bubbling. Id like to do the final poly over the stained back and sides and the front at the same time so that the coating is similar.

[tonyw]

The poly should bind with the acrylic fine as long as you let it dry properly, i have got it to bond to enamel but making sure the enaqmel was very very dry before using the poly U.

I would spray a piece of timber with the acrylic then when its dry wipe on the poly and see how it holds.

[fender3x]

Beautiful job Tony, did you leave the ferrules in when you stained and poly'd it?

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[tonyw]

thanks fender3x they went in after staining, i didnt want to find out after i did the finish that they didnt fit with the bridge and tailpiece on, especially being a 12 string.