Introduction to Dingotone

[dingobass]

Firstly, I want to thank all of you for the encouragment I have recieved with the development of Dingotone :)

As those of you who have been forum members for some time will know, I am a tone freak and not a fan of synthetic finishes.
This has lead me to develop my own finishes with the citeria that they must be made from natural products.

Through much experimentation, research and a lot of raw materials I have been able to come up with an easy to use and reliable product.
My last three builds have been finished with Dingotone and I am very happy with the results.

As Dingotone does not contain any chemical driers, it will take longer to cure than most proprietary finishes so some patience is required.... But seeing as you spent all that time sanding it is well worth taking your time with the finish.

After all, it is the finish that will catch peoples eye first.

As time goes by, I will be adding more colours and some new products.

I look forward to any feedback and colour suggestions you may have.

Cheers,
DB

[BenWA]

I was gonna ask about why the shift from wudtone but then i saw why on the wudtone page of the site (expensive import costs). dingotone is a much more reasonable price which is awesome.
how many colours are you looking to offer? or are you planning to stick to more natural wood tones? im guessing cos youre mixing it yourself itll make custom shades easier too for those who want them

also whats the application like compared to wudtone? might be good to do a couple more tutorial videos, also one for the dingo wax would be good too

[Brendan]

Something like the Dark Tease - already have an IB-5 waiting, pining for a hot colour to bring out it's natural beauty...

[dingobass]

Hey Ben,
Thanks mate :) there are vids currently in production.

The application is very similar to the afore mentioned product.

Yes, there will be many more colours added as I source the pigments and dyes.

One of the many development dramas was finding colours that are UV stable but this will be overcome.

There will be custom colours available as well as dedicated burst kits.

Brendan, I am working on that one for you Buddy ;)

[Brendan]

Ben - Having tried Dingotone, it's easier than Wudtone to apply - smoother and smells heaps better. Seems to also give a more even coat - i.e., no lines where it takes a minute to get back to the wet edge of the stain. You can get around them in Wudtone, but they just don't seem to appear with Dingotone. Downside is that as DB said, it takes a couple of days to dry properly, not one as per Wudtone.

[BenWA]

ah cool, im looking forward to seeing some of the results once everyone on here gets their hands on it. ill almost certainly end up trying it on my next build

[Timsan]

Does Dingotone work well on all timbers? Or are there ones that perform better than others?
Looking forward to trying it out on the next build. That "Black Stump" looks intriguing... do you have any pics of that one yet?

[dingobass]

So far I have used it on Maple, Mahogany, Basswood, Blackwood, Iroko and Sapele...
Seems to take well even on the notoriously difficult Rock Maple necks.

There will be a pic as soon as I can find one that is hiding somewhere in my pictures folder.

[ultpanzi]

Great work DB. Just wondering, why does colourless have a stain and intensifying coat??

[dingobass]

Good point.. We decided to run with generic names for the three parts to the finish.
The stain coat is also a foundation for the intensifying coat as it contains a different blend of oils and waxes to form a good base.

[ultpanzi]

Ah ok, that makes a little more sense.

[bargeloobs]

Congrats on the product launch DB, she looks like a great bit of gear alright!
I guess it's Dingotone for my first scratchy then :-)

[sam.grossmann]

Anyone got any feedback on the dingo outback sunset on flamed maple. Does an initial black dye then sand to pop the flame work with a natural finish?? Also any brissy locals that know where you could pick up some scrap maple for test runs?

[dingobass]

Hi Sam,
That would look very nice on flamed maple.
As long as the black stain is a turps based one there should not be any dramas using it to pop the flame.

[pablopepper]

Hi Sam, here's a few places to try for maple:

These guys will definitely have it,
http://www.lazaridestimber.com.au/#sixPopup229
whether they are willing to let go of scraps is another question all together.

These places are more for construction materials but might be worth a shot,
http://www.wilsontimbers.com/default.aspx
http://www.gilltimber.com.au/
http://www.narangbatimbers.com.au/timber-supplies-brisbane/


P.S. Hi fellow Brisvegan!

[sam.grossmann]

Thanks guys nice one!

[sam.grossmann]

Cheers Pablo, someone told me about gilltimber, was gonna give that a go.. looking at the other websites i should be able to find something suitable.
Appreciate the help... even better from a brissy dude!

[sam.grossmann]

If anyone's interested i finally found some scrap maple at lazarides timber - Brisbane, for a test run. i attempted to pop the flame with diluted black dye, outback sunset over the top. Only the one coat of the stain so far...
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/uv6wu-Testa-Mk.-2.jpg

[WeirdBits]

For some reason, I'm thinking Thylacine.

[sam.grossmann]

haha yeah good call...

[djdubya]

Hi Sam,

Thats looking good. I'm about to try something similar and have just received my Dingotone in the mail and will experiment tomorrow.

What black dye did you use and how far did you dilute it?

Cheers,
Dennis.

[sam.grossmann]

Hey Dennis,

This my first attempt at staining a guitar, particularly trying to pop the flame.
I used Feast Watson Prooftint from bunnings, first attempt (pic attached) 50/50 dye and metho... The pic posted yesterday was about 30 dye 70 metho. The maple was sanded to 220 prior to the dye by the way.
Check out youtube that's where I got all my info on the actual process.

Sam.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/5j71q-IMAG0689.jpg

[wokkaboy]

looks good Sam. Instead of using metho to thin the FW they actually sell a reducer that will reduce the colour, its not very expensive. But nice looking flame buddy

[sam.grossmann]

Yeah I was chatting to the dude at bunnings, I picked it up of the shelf and he said metho does exactly the same thing for less $$. But good suggestion, I don't know s#*t really about dyes... realised they are quite intense very quickly. So maybe try the FW reducer it's really not that expensive.

[Scanley]

I’m still deciding on colour, is there a green similar to the colortone green?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2 F132129681879

Or a deeper yellow than the butterscotch?

If not, can I use the colortone then use the dingotone top coat to seal it?

[Andy40]

Scanley,
Dingotone is an oil based stain and coats. I believe that colourtone is water based so I don't know if I would use dingotone as a final coat. You can use tru oil as a final coat if you wish over water based dyes and oil based dyes.

There used to be a green dingotone but I cant see it on the site. If I were going for that emerald green colour I would used colourtone dyes or Keyda leather dyes.

Dingotone Butterscotch comes with the butterscotch colour stain and a white coat and you blend them to get the colour you want so theoretically you can put less white base in and get a deeper yellow

[Simon Barden]

Colortone comes either as a powder to mix with your choice of solvent, or you can get it pre-mixed either with water or with spirit. Either method should give a pretty permanent stain, though spirit stains seem to penetrate a bit further in my experience. You are best leaving the stain to dry for a couple of days, then use a wet rag (water or metho) to wipe over the surface to remove any loose stain.

After that you should be able to apply dingo wax if you want, or any other finish of your choice. Any finish will contain some sort of solvent that will release a bit of the dye/stain, which doesn't really matter on single colours. But if you've attempted a stain sunburst, then don't rub the first finish coats on hard, or you'll get blurring of the stain colours.