Router Help

[bargeloobs]

Hey guys, I finally got myself a bit of essential kit today in the form of a router and a very small selection of bits.
Now I've just gotta learn how to use the damn thing although I've been playing around this afternoon and managed a basic mortise as well as some fancy edgings and wotnot.

Anyway I've been trawling through allsorts of youtube vids but can't seem to find anything really comprehensive to give me a better understanding about routing guitar bodies (more specifically routing humbucker cavities and binding channels.)
From what I can gather I probably need some sort of template for the pup cavity and making one up wouldn't be a problem, it's more trying to get my head around what part of the router runs on the template whilst the bit is in the timber.
Now the binding channels, that's proving to be a whole new level of confusing with jigs, tables, box setups and all manner of contraptions but no real clear cut/ comprehensive vids on how to exactly achieve this. I did watch one dude just doing it freehand https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0paTtoorxmw and he got a really nice result, but again he didn't really talk about how to setup the router to achieve this, BTW the binding I'm using is 6 X 1.5 mm.
Sorry if this all sounds a bit "noob", this a a whole new thing to me.
If anyone out there knows a really good resource (preferably videos) for this sort of thing or can pass on some of their own knowledge I'd really appreciate it.
Cheers!

...and bearing in mind I don't have and endless money pit to go and buy fancy gizmos from Stew Mac :)

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/n4n9x-04.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/thtok-15.jpg

[wokkaboy]

hey Barge,
you are on the right track. You will need to cut some templates I normally use 12mm thick marine ply and make the templates way oversize so you can clamp the body under the template. You will need to use a pattern following router bit with a bearing, the bit needs to be a parallel shape. The bit 2nd from the left in your kit would be suitable for a router table to cut a body, but generally the bearing needs to be on the shaft side when routing pup and control cavities, so the bit cuts below the template.
I'd keep searching youtube and even the Stewmac website may have some helpful videos.
Just remember a router is one of the most dangerous power tools and its very important you keep checking the bit is tightened well in the chuck.
I'd get some scrap wood and practice and you will be more confident with one.
Its also important you ensure the bearing on the bit is at the correct height and the whole bearing is running on the template edges. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection too

[bargeloobs]

Okay cool man cheers for that wokks that makes sense, can you get hold of those bits on ebay?

[bargeloobs]

Sorry just another thing wokks, so you say you use a 12mm thick template? As you gradually drop you depth down (obviously a pup rout is gonna exceed 12mm) does the bearing just end up running on your fresh rout in the body therefore continuing to use the body as the template as you go deeper?
Hope that makes sense:P

[wokkaboy]

hey Barge, not sure if router bits are available on ebay. I'd go to a shop that specialises in power tools would be your best bet. Think my main router bit is about 30mm long. You are correct once the cavity you routed is more than the depth of the bit you can remove the template and use the edge that you have cut as a guide.
Do you have a carbatec or Hare and Forbes near you ?
You should be able to get a bearing to fit most shafts with a small allen key lock screw

[bargeloobs]

What about something like this?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Router-Bit-16mm-Inverted-Flush-Trim-TB8220-TruaCuT-/221451456624?pt=AU_Woodcrafts&hash=item338f891070

[wokkaboy]

yer that looks ideal Barge and good value, about $28 posted.

[bargeloobs]

Excellent I just bought it, thanks for your help dude!

[wokkaboy]

no worries Barge, let me know how the bit cuts I might buy one, its a good price

[bargeloobs]

Yeah roger that :)

[Gavin1393]

Full template set for pickup cavities and control plates from StewMac....

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Routing_Templates/Pickup_Control_Cavity_Routing_Template_Set.html

[bargeloobs]

Nice lookin' set Gav:)

[Gavin1393]

Regrettably if StewMac supply it DB and I probably own it......which is why we're always broke!

[pablopepper]

I can make you laser cut templates like that. Let me know if you want some.

Also, good quality bits are worth the money. Practice with the ones you've got, but consider upgrading.

Get some Loctite. Before you use the bits, unscrew the bolt holding the bearing in place, smear a small amount on to the thread and do it up tight. A bearing coming off mid cut is a bad thing. And don't get Loctite on the bearing. Duh.

Speaking of the bearing, wd40 is your friend. Blow off the dust and use before and after. Make sure the bearing is spinning freely before you cut. Bearing drag sucks.

[pablopepper]

Oh, most importantly. A router is a tool that needs to be respected. No distractions. Eyes on the job at all times. No loose clothing/hair. NEVER let it go while its spinning.

[bargeloobs]

Nice info man, I'll definitely take heed of that. I was actually gonna ask right at the top what would be some of the most important safety aspects to look out for (apart from the obvious don't put your finger in there while it's spinning)
Another one I was wondering about was, do you need the bit spinning before you enter the work, can these things bite in if you tried to start it when you're in the timber?
re: the laser cut template, man I'd definitely be into one for a SD style humbucker if you can do it, that'd be freakin sick.

[pablopepper]

Oh yeah, let it wind up to full speed before you cut. Make sure you move into the spin too. Safety goggles and ear muffs as well are important.

Humbucker template is no worries. Pm me your address on Facebook.

[bargeloobs]

Roger that, nothing worse than finding out what not to do the hard way.
Sorry man I haven't got a Facebook, shoot me a message here mate.
sodacupkiller69@gmail.com

[Gavin1393]

Always cut from left to right......never the other way around.....

[jarrod]

/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Gavin1393 on September 1, 2014, 22:29
Always cut from left to right......never the other way around.....

That would be known as climb milling ( just saying )

[pablopepper]

Email sent. :)

[bargeloobs]

After searching...and searching...and then a bit more searching I finally came to the conclusion that if I wanted to cut a 1.5 mm binding channel I'd have to bite the bullet and visit Stew Mac (sob sob). I now own a rabbeting bit and bearing (including shipping) that is literally worth more than my router:P

http://i.imgur.com/6ZBCgvg.jpg

Having said that I plan to do a lot more guitar building in the future so I think it was a worthwhile investment, especially if you want the job done properly.

[wokkaboy]

well done Barge, so is the distance between the bearing and the cutting surfaces 1.5mm ? looks like that bit may take out more than 1.5mm. Better give it a test on scrap wood first

[bargeloobs]

Nah sorry my bad, I should have mentioned, that's just a pic off the Stew Mac site, I don't think there's a bearing on there at all just lookin' at it.

[wokkaboy]

ah ok all good Barge, just didn't want to see you take out a 15mm thick channel haha

[pablopepper]

For future reference, you should be able to get router bits altered at your local tool sharpener. Here's an example of my trusty custom rebate bit.
http://i.imgur.com/kDcixbJ.jpg
Wasn't particularly expensive as far as I remember.

[bargeloobs]

/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on September 4, 2014, 12:36
ah ok all good Barge, just didn't want to see you take out a 15mm thick channel haha

Hehe yeah wouldn't that suck!

[bargeloobs]

/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from pablopepper on September 4, 2014, 12:41
For future reference, you should be able to get router bits altered at your local tool sharpener. Here's an example of my trusty custom rebate bit.
http://i.imgur.com/kDcixbJ.jpg
Wasn't particularly expensive as far as I remember.

Cool, I like how you've got a nice big base on the bottom there, I'm picking you jimmied that up yourself Craig? It'd be perfect for cutting rebates and still keep plenty of router on the work surface.

[pablopepper]

I fashion a wide range of tools, jigs and accessories for myself. 'Because I can' is the best excuse ever for not spending money.

[bargeloobs]

I'm hearin' ya bro, you're a lucky man!

[WeirdBits]

Here's the StewMac bit with a bearing in place after making a cut (for 1.62mm if I recall correctly):

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/75520-Binding_bit_1_5.jpg


And, this is part of the cut it made:

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/q9566-Binding_cut_1.jpg


Barge, I'd advise making a few practice cuts to check the sharpness of the bit and adjust your speed (both of the router and how quick you move it) to ensure you get as clean and scorch free cut as possible. And, do a depth test with a piece of your particular binding to make sure it does give you the depth you want/need.

[bargeloobs]

Yeah roger that man, I'd planned on many test pieces before I attempt the real deal. Just out of curiosity did you do that with the router on top of the body or was it set up upside down in a table? Nice lookin' job btw, if I can get close to that I'll be a happy camper:-)

[WeirdBits]

Yep, I did that cut from the top of the body with the set up exactly as it is in the first pic (it's actually a trimmer). It was a flat deck Tele so I could safely run along the top of the body, although I did fit a block in the neck pocket to support the edges while making the rout.

With a carved top things aren't as straight forward...

[bargeloobs]

With a carved top things aren't as straight forward...


Shit I could only imagine, I'll keep it simple for now with the flat tops until I get some more experience under my belt.
Just another thing, I was reading this stuff was okay for gluing so I got a tin, any experience using CA?
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/5z2fz-KGrHqVHJCUE9N9+iWbBPcBrl-GQ60_57.JPG

[dingobass]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

The best product I have found is the brushable super glue from Stewmac.
Grab yourself a bottle and their binding tape, it makes the job so much faster, easier and cleaner as you can get the glue exactly where you need it!

[dingobass]

Or, if you are very patient and can wait a few days for it to cure, good ole Tarzans Grip is great stuff

[dingobass]

Another tip, when routing binding ledges it is best to work your way down to the correct depth.
This reduces the wear and tear on the router bit and also gives you a much cleaner cut.

[bargeloobs]

/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on September 4, 2014, 19:24
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

The best product I have found is the brushable super glue from Stewmac.


Yeah I was watching a dude brushing something like that in a vid the other day, he didn't say exactly what it was but it sure looked like super glue (very watery).
Could you get away with using just regular super glue in the tubes or is that different again?

[bargeloobs]

/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on September 4, 2014, 19:27
Another tip, when routing binding ledges it is best to work your way down to the correct depth.
This reduces the wear and tear on the router bit and also gives you a much cleaner cut.

Righto done, if I'm going down 6mm and in 1.5 how many times (roughly) would I need to step down before I get there you reckon?

[dingobass]

First part. Hardware store super glues are way to thin and runny. The Stewmac brush-able is a medium consistency so a thin layer will stay put long enough for you to tape the binding in place.
I usually glue 200mm at a time.

Second part, start with the bearing that takes off the least amount and work in to the final width of the binding.
You can start off with the router set at the correct depth of the binding, just take it slow :)
It is a wise move to leave the binding slightly proud, you can then trim it with the flush cut bearing attached.

[bargeloobs]

It's all good I just scored some SM glue (well the missus did anyway):-)
Proud on the edge or the top? And you're saying you can actually rout the binding flush?
Next time you do a binding job you should make a video, it's so much easier to learn when you're actually watching someone do it.
Cheers for the info though DB!

[dingobass]

Proud of the side edge. You should have a flush cut bearing in your kit :)
It is also good to have it sitting proud of the top as well.
You can scrape this flush later.

[bargeloobs]

I didn't buy the whole kit DB, it was just too much to fork out in one hit, I only got the rabbeting bit and the one bearing I needed for this specific job (1.5 mm rebate) I'll look into adding to the collection further down the track as I need them.

[dingobass]

No problem, you can scrape the bindings by hand.

[bargeloobs]

Yeah roger that, improvisation's my middle name:-)