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Timsan
27-05-2014, 06:37 PM
Pitbull have definitely delivered with this kit.

I special-ordered this kit back in late February, and it's finally here!

Never have I been more excited...

I've dreamed of a left-handed 6-string bass for many years, and have been laughed out of many music shops for even voicing the request for such an imaginary instrument.

Now the dream has become a reality.

Here she is, straight out of the box:

http://i.imgur.com/ke6S5RM.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QTeVE0e.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SQbu9UN.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Z5QSkwK.jpg

pablopepper
27-05-2014, 09:09 PM
Once again you've lucked out with a spectacular spalt top. You lucky boy!

Andyport
27-05-2014, 10:46 PM
OMG Tim, that top looks absolutely divine!!
What a fantastic kit...Pitbull deliver again, hey!
I will be keen to watch your progress on this one.

Cheers
Andy

stan
28-05-2014, 01:40 AM
that was worth waiting for Tim, awesome (oh, and lefties rule)

gavinturner
28-05-2014, 05:25 AM
Wow Tim, what an amazing veneer you scored yourself there. That is just awesome.
Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one!

cheers,
Gav.

Timsan
28-05-2014, 05:36 AM
With my track record with spalted tops so far, I feel like I should be buying Powerball tickets...

This one definitely exceeded my expectations! I'm reluctant to stain it at all, to be honest. I'd rather just put the clear coats on and show it off in all it's natural beauty.

The only thing that would need some work is the nut... it's rough as guts. Looks like someone has had a crack at it with a chisel. I might get a nice Graphtech nut or something similar.

I was also thinking of going the ToneMonster route as well for the preamp. They definitely are quite affordable.

@stan - lefties definitely rule!

lawry
28-05-2014, 08:32 AM
Hmmm. I'm starting to think that when I want to buy a capped kit I might get you to do the ordering Tim. That cap is magnificent.

Brendan
28-05-2014, 01:37 PM
That spalty top is amazing. Looking forward to seeing something truly special here!

Timsan
28-05-2014, 11:57 PM
I did a bit of a mock build this morning.

Everything is as it should be... the challenge with this build will be positioning the bridge. I didn't have this problem with the LP (pre-drilled holes for the tailpiece and bridge), so this will be the tricky bit.

The black hardware looks quite nice against the maple...
http://i.imgur.com/csDq8ih.jpg

and I think I'll go for the Warwick-style raked machine head configuration.
http://i.imgur.com/64309tW.jpg

pablopepper
29-05-2014, 12:12 AM
I dig the swept back machine heads. This is going to be an awesome build. Watching with keen interest.

bargeloobs
29-05-2014, 12:15 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Timsan on May 28, 2014, 08:57


The black hardware looks quite nice against the maple...
http://i.imgur.com/csDq8ih.jpg

and I think I'll go for the Warwick-style raked machine head configuration.
http://i.imgur.com/64309tW.jpg

I think you're right, totally natural offset by the black hardware will be the fricken balls. That top is amazing.
You going gloss or satin?

Timsan
29-05-2014, 02:54 AM
Unsure yet... I hadn't considered satin, but now my interest is piqued.

But either way I think I'm going to get the colourless finish with the aging tint mixed in (it's not really "colourless", then, but that's beside the point). There's just enough in that to add a bit of warmth and bring the grain out without going overboard.

stan
29-05-2014, 08:17 AM
very nice Tim, it looks superb

wokkaboy
31-05-2014, 12:53 AM
wow Tim thats probably the most figured cap I've seen on these kits, looks amazing. Tinted clear sounds like a great option. I did mine in amber and tru oil and it gave it a hint of light brown. You don't want to hide any of that figure so clear is the go mate ! This should turn out a very cool bass !

Timsan
05-06-2014, 04:29 AM
So... first question for this build.

I didn't have this problem with the LP-1SS I built, because the holes for the bridge were pre-drilled.

But... This one is my first where I have to measure for the bridge. How do I do this when both the neck and the bridge aren't fixed in place yet?

Gavin1393
05-06-2014, 05:02 AM
I'd fix them in place before deciding where the bridge must go.

wokkaboy
05-06-2014, 05:12 AM
Tim there's 2 ways to do this, is there much 'play' in the neck and neck pocket ?
If not I'd drill 2 neck holes in the neck and fit the screws (don't drill all 5 in case you need a bit of final alignment adjustment later), fit both outside tuners and run the 2 outer strings to the bridge then you can get the alignment of the string offset. I'd measure distance from nut to 12th fret and add 5mm to this and measure that from 12th fret to centreline of neck and put a piece of tape across the body where the bridge saddles should go. From memory these bridges have a fair bit of saddle movement forward/rearward, but work on the low B string being a

wokkaboy
05-06-2014, 05:21 AM
Tim, this is the most important part of the build, I'd drill 2 holes in the neck (don't drill all 5 in case you need a small alignment adjustment later). Measure nut to 12th fret distance. Add 5mm. Measure this from 12th fret to bottom of the body and mark off this distance with a piece of masking tape. This will be where your low B saddle should be sitting. String up 2 outer stings and align the bridge so string offsets are about the same and drill the bridge in. The bridge saddles have at least 10mm of play from memory. Here's my build diary but doesn't go into too much detail
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/community/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=891.8

Timsan
05-06-2014, 06:56 AM
Schweet... thanks Wokka.

There isn't much play in the neck pocket at all, thankfully.

wokkaboy
05-06-2014, 07:08 AM
no worries Tim. Just try and get the bridge square, it will look terrible if its on an angle. Wind the bottom treble saddle all the way forward. If 'N' is the distance nut to 12th fret this bottom treble saddle shouldn't be closer to the 12th fret than 'N'. Typically the low B heavy string will be about 5-7mm further than 'N' but you will work this out when you do the intonation. Good luck mate ! These are in my opinion one of the best looking PBG kits

Timsan
30-06-2014, 02:22 AM
I've spent a fair bit of time on the drums (http://www.pitbullguitars.com/community/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=1287.0), but now the first top coat has been put on the shells, it's time to give a little attention to the bass.

I have some Mahogany base coat left over, and I was thinking of doing one coat of 'hog on the basswood (NOT the maple top!), then sanding back to enhance the grain. I know a few guys have done this, but I can't find an example that documents the process step-by-step. What grit sandpaper do I use, and is there anything I need to watch out for? Is it even worth doing on basswood?

lunaticthighs
30-06-2014, 06:48 AM
I had the same delema with the bridge placement on the bass kit. Not sure I did it right but I measured and marked a pencil line dead centre of neck cut out and pickup cut out and marked a line all the way through the body to give my central point. Then attached neck with quick grips and measured from 12th fret to get the distance point. Tacked bridge on with 2 screws and strung it to check alignment. Seemed to work ok.

Timsan
04-07-2014, 11:38 PM
Now this is interesting.

I don't know why I didn't pick this up before, but it looks like the timber used on the body is totally different between the top half and the bottom half.

http://i.imgur.com/iFkMa3U.jpg

There's a bit of flaming or something in that lower half that looks nice, and there's more on the bottom edge of the body.

http://i.imgur.com/74AC9ns.jpg

Is it possible that while the top half of the body is basswood, the bottom half might be maple? Or does basswood come in different hues?

pablopepper
05-07-2014, 12:11 AM
It is basswood. I was surprised to see small amounts of flaming in the back of my IB-1, but it is there. Basswood and maple have very different densities, you would notice straight away.

Timsan
06-07-2014, 02:42 AM
I was sanding the neck and bumped the nut with the side of my hand... and it popped off. Fortunately it was a clean break and it didn't take any rosewood with it. But I'm now thinking whether I should put that one back on, or upgrade to something better.


All you IB-6 builders, have you stuck with the original plastic nut, or have you upgraded? What to? I'm sussing out a pre-cut Tusq nut, but I have to see whether it will work on a lefty. Failing that, I'll need to buy a blank and do it myself.

ihasmario
06-07-2014, 05:52 AM
I like the wavy grain on the fretboard :)

dingobass
06-07-2014, 06:59 AM
Bone for tone... Why replace a plastic nut with, well, another type of plastic?.

Timsan
06-07-2014, 07:54 AM
True... but is there anywhere in Oz that will do one in that size, and a lefty as well?

Timsan
06-07-2014, 08:14 AM
While I try to figure things out... here's a couple more pics. I've done a coat of Mahogany base coat and sanded it back a bit. Quite liking the result.

http://i.imgur.com/iSGtkPM.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/736I8AI.jpg

Haven't finished sanding back, so I'll post some more pics when it's done.

dingobass
06-07-2014, 08:28 AM
Ummm, yeah.... I can do one for you.
Just order it through the site :)

All I need to know is the length and width and i can cut and slot it for you. I will leave the height so you can adjust it to suit your needs.

stan
06-07-2014, 09:47 AM
DB does nice bone nuts, get it from him for sure

Love how this is looking Tim

Timsan
06-07-2014, 10:50 AM
@dingobass - cool, mate. I'll add one to the shopping list.

@stan - thanks, man. It was a bit of a gamble, but I think it paid off. Staining the body has evened out the colour between the top and bottom slabs of the body, and brought the flaming out a little more. I really like the aged/worn look that has come out of the sanding process.

lawry
06-07-2014, 10:27 PM
Hey Tim. Have you checked out the electronics yet? Wokka and I put in active systems in our IB-6 beasties so the stuff that came with the kit wasn't an issue. However, I'm stuffed if I could work out how to wire up the passive system that was supplied.

Timsan
07-07-2014, 11:50 PM
Hi Lawry, I'm going to get a Tone Monster preamp as well. All pre-wired and ready to install!

I did consider the passive system, but it looks like too much work... and I'd rather have the flexibility of the 3-band EQ.

lawry
08-07-2014, 02:04 AM
Hurrah, I say. Smart move.

Timsan
09-07-2014, 01:11 AM
Got an email back from Graphtech... the best they can do is to sell me a blank, and I'd have to file the slots myself. :?

The DB custom bone nut is looking more appealing all the time.

stan
09-07-2014, 09:16 AM
bone for tone as DB says, do it mate

Timsan
10-07-2014, 01:25 AM
It will be done as soon as I can sell off one of my drum kits. It's on the Gumtree at the moment, should have a guy coming to pick it up in a day or two.

Failing that, there's always the tax return. ;)

wokkaboy
10-07-2014, 03:26 AM
Hey Tim,
good move with the active pre-amp system and I got DB to make me a bone nut and it doesn't compare to the plastic nut, it sounds much better !
Also love the mahogany stain on the back. Yes basswood can have some nice flaming so you have scored a nice body all round

Timsan
23-07-2014, 11:02 PM
So... I managed to sell that kit I was talking about.

I've ordered a SBK-3A from Tone Monster, a bone nut and some Wudtone. This is going to be good once it's put together!

I do have a question about bridges... I've noticed that the string spacing on this particular kit is quite close. I was looking at Hipshot bridges as a possible upgrade, and the closest spacing on either the A or B style bridge is 0.669, while the spacing on the IB-6S bridge is more like 0.610. Is it possible to put a slightly wider bridge on without it affecting things too much, or shouldn't I even go there?

pablopepper
23-07-2014, 11:39 PM
I don't think you'll have a problem with the pickups, you might have a problem where the strings come on to the fretboard. If the spread is too wide the strings will come too close to the edge of the fretboard. You could do a mock up on a piece of paper (or three), draw a centre line, mark the width of your nut, measure scale length and plot out the spread where the bridge is gonna go. Connect the dots and you've got your string spacing.

wokkaboy
24-07-2014, 02:11 AM
yer I'd do that Tim, sure the pickups are wide enough but from memory the strings on the standard bridge had a bit of distance on the outer strings to the edge of the frets but wouldn't want to push them out much wider.
Maybe if you can give me the overall width of the upgrade bridge from outer saddle to outer saddle and I'll see how it would look on my IB-6S

Timsan
24-07-2014, 02:35 AM
Hey Wokka, the dimensions are on here - http://www.hipshotproducts.com/files/all/6stgastyle.pdf
It's the first diagram - "6 string .669".
The measurements are in inches, but it translates to 84.963mm. Close enough to 85mm that it makes no difference.

wokkaboy
24-07-2014, 02:50 AM
no worries Tim, I'll have a look tonight if I remember !
if you have the supplied bridge handy can you please measure and post the outer saddle distance ?
I just read in a previous post you mention supplied bridge about 0.61" spacing so that equates to about 77.5mm.
This may be a bit tight being about 3.8mm further out each side but with the taper of the strings will be less than this over the fretboard.

Timsan
24-07-2014, 08:52 AM
Cheers, bloke. Just got home from work. The saddle spacing on the stock bridge from B to C is somewhere in that 76-77mm range.

Timsan
24-07-2014, 09:57 PM
That tight spacing is apparently pretty common with the less expensive Ibanez etc basses.

I have a solution... rather than take a risk on Hipshot, I'll hang onto the existing bridge for now, and upgrade later to a Schaller 2000. I can adjust that to the appropriate spacing without any dramas.

http://www.realparts.com.au/bridges-tailpieces/bass/schaller-2000-6-string-adjustable-bass-bridge-black.html

wokkaboy
24-07-2014, 11:47 PM
sounds good Tim, I forgot to check mine lastnight but think the Hipshot would make the outer strings to close to the fret edges. Whats the latest on the staining, haven't seen pics for a while ?

Timsan
25-07-2014, 03:02 AM
No progress on the staining except more sanding thus far. It's all I've been able to do, since these days I'm hard pressed to even be able to afford to order the finish! I'm on an extremely low income at the moment, while I finish my degree.

Fortunately I sold that kit over the weekend and I was able to order the stuff I needed to continue.

In lieu of progress pics, I've given the body a once-over with turps to bring up the grain after the sanding so far - it's on 220 at the moment, I still need to go over some spots around the edges, then take it down to 240 before I start applying the finish.

http://i.imgur.com/5oihQrp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/R0gP2jz.jpg

wokkaboy
25-07-2014, 03:08 AM
wow that looks sensational Tim, this is by far the best looking cap I've seen on these kits, the bookmatching is perfect. The figure is off the chain.
What colour stain did you end up ordering ?
Its well worth spending time on the sanding process, the finish will be much better

Timsan
25-07-2014, 04:29 AM
I'm keeping things as natural as possible, Wokka, so I'm going with colourless Wudtone. Satin with ageing tint, to deepen the natural tone of the timber a little. I considered using Tru-Oil, but I didn't think the high gloss was appropriate for this kit.

wokkaboy
25-07-2014, 04:42 AM
sounds like a great plan Tim, satin ageing wudtone should come up a treat. So same for back/sides and neck ?

Timsan
25-07-2014, 05:21 AM
Yeah... one finish option is all I can afford for this one.

If I had an option I would have liked Black Magic Woman or Colombian Gold on the back and neck, but the funds just aren't there, especially since I splashed out on a bone nut. Not to worry, it will still look good once it's done.

wokkaboy
25-07-2014, 05:56 AM
Id head down to the big green shed and get a 50ml bottle of Feast Watson prooftint stain costs $8 or $9, will be more than enough for the back/sides of the body. There's some nice blacks/browns/varying red stains. Think I did my back/sides in FW jarrah stain is a nice rich brown with a hint of deep red

lawry
25-07-2014, 06:39 AM
Totally agree with the simple satin, Tim. I decided on satin for mine so that the cap was more dominant (not lost in the shine) and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I also ended up putting clear on the neck to show off the skunk stripes. You're gonna love this axe when she's done.

Timsan
26-07-2014, 10:22 PM
I got a bottle of FW Japan Black from said mass-retailer of hardware and gardening supplies yesterday. However after further thought, I'm going to stick with the natural finish. The remaining mahogany stain in the timber has left some nice flaming and grain action that I've taken a shine to, so I'll save the Feast Watson for the next project. This project will be (nearly) au naturale.

Update on the stuff.

- The Wudtone is winging it's way across the continent to me as I type.
- I presume the bone nut won't be too far behind.
- The Tone Monster is somewhere in transit and I'll probably see that in the next 2-4 weeks' time, after the finish has been applied.
- I pre-emptively ordered a concentric knob and I received that about 3 weeks ago, ready to go on.

Stuff is happening. Not as fast as I'd like, but the upside is that it has meant that I'm forced to take my time and the kit will be properly sanded.

wokkaboy
27-07-2014, 01:21 AM
sounds good the natural look Tim, all the upgrades coming it will be a nice sounding beast when its done. Will sound like mine and Lozza's except Lozza removed the speed bumps. My next bass will be a fretless. I'll even let DB remove the speed bumps I know he loves to do that !
You will love the FW Japan Black on your next project, great colour Tim !

Timsan
01-08-2014, 05:25 AM
I have the Wudtone in my hot little hands... clear base coat and tinted satin top coat. I'm doing some more 240 sanding before I start to apply coats.

I'm just waiting for Dingobass to weave his magic with my bone nut.
Then to await the arrival of my Tone Monster...

I love it when a plan comes together. :D

west0288
01-08-2014, 12:30 PM
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zXbABVDMhS4/UJuuQd-kl7I/AAAAAAAABuA/w5c2yxMDWFY/s1600/ATeam.jpeg

lawry
02-08-2014, 08:22 AM
God, I'd forgotten all about The A Team. And that's a good thing!

Timsan
07-08-2014, 04:46 AM
The Tone Monster arrived today! Not bad considering I ordered it on the 21st of July.

The only piece of the puzzle left is the nut...

But I have a question to the other IB-6 owners - did you shield the cavities? This may be something else I need to consider.

wokkaboy
07-08-2014, 04:58 AM
Hey Tim, good news the plan is coming together (like the A team haha)
yes I shielded pup cavities and control cavity. You will have to route out a small part of a cavity wall for one of the pots with a circuit board above it. Most important thing to do is make sure no lugs or wire threads short out on the shielding. Sometimes it causes a few headaches diagnosing where its shorting out but in the long run the bass will have less background interference. DB is probably up to his neck trying to release the Dingotone so hopefully your bone nut isn't too far off. You can probably use the plastic nut if you are waiting to drill the bridge in place

wokkaboy
07-08-2014, 05:10 AM
Tim here's how I fit my preamp in the control cavity, before it was shielded. I can't remember the configuration but can let you know in terms of where each pot went - master volume, low/mid/high pots and volumes
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/9xbst-2014-01-23-23.47.57.jpg

Timsan
07-08-2014, 07:56 AM
Sweet, thanks Wokka.

Got an email from dB. He's on it, but was waiting for more of the larger blanks to come in. I'm in the process of applying base coats at the moment, so no rush there.

I'll have a play around with the Tone Monster once the latest coat dries. See where I need to rout a bit of cavity away.

I guess I'd better order some shielding tape... did one pack last the distance, or will I need more than that?

wokkaboy
07-08-2014, 08:02 AM
get DB to send the copper shielding with the bone nut. Up to you if you shield the pup cavities, for $7 a packet might as well get 2 packs

Timsan
07-08-2014, 08:10 AM
Good point. If I have some tape left over it'll give me an excuse to order another kit!

Fretworn
08-08-2014, 01:53 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from lawry on August 1, 2014, 17:22
God, I'd forgotten all about The A Team. And that's a good thing!

And yet that show was vastly superior to most of the garbage on TV these days.

lawry
09-08-2014, 08:30 AM
Hi Tim. I did pretty much a carbon copy of what Wokka said. Definitely shield the cavities, it's just one more thing you can do to stop noise. But, as Wokka said, make sure the electronics don't touch it because it gets a bit tight in there. As for the nut, I went bone too and am very happy with it. I needed to do a bit of filing because I ripped the frets out. But I'd definitely recommend it.

Timsan
11-08-2014, 05:20 AM
Copper tape is on it's way. Shielding will commence in the near future.

With the Tone Monster, do I need to run a grounding wire to the bridge? It doesn't look like I have one to run.

lawry
11-08-2014, 09:17 AM
Yep. There's a connection point for extra earthing on the loom of the electronics. Easy!

Timsan
11-08-2014, 09:05 PM
Sorry, Lawry, but I can't find where the ground wire goes...

Is it on one of the circuit boards, or somewhere else, like off one of the pots?

http://i.imgur.com/9Tmhifi.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oSTouaz.jpg

wokkaboy
12-08-2014, 02:56 AM
from memory Tim think I just ran the ground wire from bridge to back of one of the pots. With the shielding all other pots make contact with the shielding and don't need an earth wire

Timsan
18-08-2014, 07:57 AM
It's been a little while since I posted last...

Here's a couple of update pics. I've put on 4 clear base coats and 2 tinted top coats so far. I'm going to applying a few more top coats this week, see where this ends up.

http://i.imgur.com/ZJVHnOi.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uta1j14.jpg

maxaxe
18-08-2014, 08:10 AM
I would say that what you've got there is an instrument with CHARACTER.
The finish really showcases that super grain.

Timsan
18-08-2014, 08:51 AM
Thanks, maxaxe. I do appreciate the beauty of the natural grain, and I think that it's great that we can achieve these sort of results without having to spend thousands on a custom jobbie.

I know it sounds trite, but I mean it when I say that PBG is seriously making a dream come true here in every sense of the phrase.

gavinturner
18-08-2014, 12:06 PM
Looking really amazing Tim. Love the subtle colour tones you've achieved with the tinted lacquer. That's one beautiful bass you've got yourself there.

cheers,
Gav.

wokkaboy
19-08-2014, 06:02 AM
looking awesome Tim.
These are one of the best looking kits I think

stan
19-08-2014, 09:01 AM
Tim, you have done a great job in getting the most out of that guitar, nice work

Brendan
19-08-2014, 12:55 PM
Looks a treat there Tim! Gotta be stoked with how this one is coming out.

Timsan
01-09-2014, 07:26 AM
It's coming along nicely now.
The bridge is measured up and screwed in.
All the hardware and electronics are installed.

The only thing is... it's not making a noise yet. I'll have to go back through with the multimeter and check everything. :?

Is there anything I should know about the Tone Monster kits? Did anyone else have issues with them, or is it just me? It could be me... Maybe there's a contact or wire touching the shielding.

Timsan
01-09-2014, 09:43 AM
A few more pics, with all the bits in the right spots.
It doesn't make any noise yet, but it's looking the business!

http://i.imgur.com/IsgqawX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ri7xsJ5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1xkgIF9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mH5Esy0.jpg

wokkaboy
01-09-2014, 09:45 AM
wow Tim looks sensational, wait till you get noise out of this baby, awesome kits !
So you got to wire up the pre-amp ?

gavinturner
01-09-2014, 09:46 AM
Amazing job Tim. She's looking amazing! Bring on the sound demo!!

cheers,
Gav.

Timsan
01-09-2014, 10:30 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on August 31, 2014, 18:45
wow Tim looks sensational, wait till you get noise out of this baby, awesome kits !
So you got to wire up the pre-amp ?


I did, but there's a short or a bad solder joint somewhere. Probably my ham-fistedness at play when I put it in.
I'll get the multimeter out in the next few days and have a poke around.

wokkaboy
02-09-2014, 01:36 AM
Tim I had trouble with my pre-amp earthing on the copper shielding on one of the circuit boards above the pots. I ended up having to scrape some of the shielding away so it didn't make contact

Fretworn
02-09-2014, 01:55 AM
It's looking great Tim.

gavinturner
02-09-2014, 10:55 AM
Wokka, one trick I have been using is to cut a bit of milk bottle plastic to use as a bib to fit around the top of the pot to keep the terminals away from the shielding. Might have worked well for your pre-amp circuit board too. Just a thought..

Cheers,
Gav.