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Timsan
26-12-2013, 09:04 AM
My first build... I'm excited and terrified at the same time.

I received the kit a few days ago, but since it was my Christmas present it got opened and inspected today. For my first build it's exciting, but the degree of difficulty is well above my novice level.

I have loads of experience as a drum tech, but guitar building is completely new to me. I've given birth to something that I'm totally and utterly responsible for, but I also feel like I'm in way over my head. I will be asking a LOT of questions.

Onward to the pictures!

It's... beautiful.

The spalt on the cap is nicely pronounced, and the grain of the maple is there in the mix as well. On the whole the build is quite good, there's little play in the neck joint, and everything seems to fit fairly well off the bat.

The headstock has a nice grain to it. Quite attractive and almost quilted.

I've only just opened it and had a squiz. Hopefully in the next few days I'll be able to do a full mock-build.

I am REALLY looking forward to this journey!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/97ll9-20131225_162456.jpg

Timsan
26-12-2013, 09:12 AM
A couple more pics of the body and headstock. It seems my internet connection is potato-powered... it doesn't like it when I try to post lots of large files at once.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/83x42-20131225_154959.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/55i7o-20131225_155235.jpg

Gavin1393
26-12-2013, 09:15 AM
Looks like a really nice spalty u got there!

gavinturner
26-12-2013, 09:25 AM
hi Tim,
Wow! looks like a great kit. That spalted cap is amazing - it's going to come up a treat. A very cool first project! Looking forward to reading your build diary - I'm sure you'll be addicted to guitar building in no time :).

cheers,
Gav.

jarrod
26-12-2013, 10:50 AM
That's great looking grain . Your going to enjoy the build from the first bit of sanding to the first strum.

robin
26-12-2013, 10:54 AM
Hey Tim that's a lovely looking top, I'm sure you will end up with a great guitar.

And don't be daunted by what lies ahead. We all were (and most of us still are) just amateurs when it comes to building guitars, so it can't be too difficult. Just take your time, don't rush and enjoy the build. And don't be afraid to ask lots of questions. No matter what your problem is, there is bound to be someone who has gone there before and will be willing to help.

cheers mate
rob

stan
26-12-2013, 06:31 PM
Welcome Tim , it looks great, nice to see another lefty in the house

Andyport
26-12-2013, 08:02 PM
Hi Tim, you are going love building the LP.
Most of us were like you and had little or no experience when we started our first kit.
The main advice I can give is to ask plenty of questions along the way.
We have a fantastic community here, full of guys more than willing to part with their experience and help you through any situations you may encounter.
All the best, Andy.

keloooe
26-12-2013, 10:19 PM
Tim, don't worry about the build too much, I built a Les Paul kit earlier this year and I'm only a teenager still! Good luck, have fun, take your time and ask as many questions as possible here on the forum to help you!

Timsan
26-12-2013, 10:22 PM
Thanks, lads. I can guarantee there will be quite a few questions.

I've given the body a bit of a wipe over with a damp rag... damn that grain stands out. I like how the binding sets it off.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/qi1hh-20131226_075402.jpg

Gavin1393
26-12-2013, 10:45 PM
...and don't forget to read through this thread...
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=42&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=302
where you will find all the build information in one spot together with links to video's, tips and tricks, etc. all designed to help you get a great result.

Timsan
26-12-2013, 11:11 PM
Aaaannnndddd... glue spots.

Fortunately there isn't any on the cap to speak of, but there's a bit on the mahogany below the binding. Off I go to get a wire brush.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/006j6-20131225_155055s.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/h9fh4-20131225_155100s.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/s40cy-20131225_155127s.jpg

Timsan
26-12-2013, 11:16 PM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Gavin1393 on December 26, 2013, 07:45
...and don't forget to read through this thread...
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=42&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=302
where you will find all the build information in one spot together with links to video's, tips and tricks, etc. all designed to help you get a great result.

Thanks Gav, I'm saving it as a bookmark. There's definitely a wealth of good material there.

jarrod
26-12-2013, 11:47 PM
Have you thought about colours yet Tim , I'm suffering from Guitar Envi now so stop showing pics of that cap will you LOL.....

Timsan
27-12-2013, 01:17 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from jarrod on December 26, 2013, 08:47
Have you thought about colours yet Tim , I'm suffering from Guitar Envi now so stop showing pics of that cap will you LOL.....

Haha - that cap is pretty special.

I've had plenty of time to think about colour... the kit was ordered in Sept/Oct, because it was a special lefty order. I've spent many a session on the Pitbull and Wudtone websites agonizing over the finish options.

Here's what I've come up with so far:

Option #1 - Azure Lagoon on the cap with Dark Tease for the back 'n' sides
Option #2 - Burning Sun or Goldenrod on top with Mahogany/Carmine Gypsy/Hot Auburn for the back 'n' sides
Option #3 - Mahogany or Hot Auburn or Carmine Gypsy all over.

I'm leaning towards the 3rd option, mainly because #2 has been done before, and I want to save #1 for an IB-6S as my next project. What I was thinking of doing was a sort of fade finish, similar to a burst - 2 coats of pigment all over, then a third coat on the outer half, then a 4th coat on the outer rim. So it would be the same colour all over, but lighter in the middle of the body, gradually getting darker towards the outside. I'd possibly follow the same idea on the back of the body and the headstock, as well as maybe trying to somehow achieve this on the neck. Has anyone tried this before?

Thoughts?

Timsan
27-12-2013, 02:50 AM
I honestly can't imagine a better day than this. The cricket is on the radio, and I've spent the afternoon so far doing a mock build.

The one issue I've encountered so far is the amount of thread available on the 3-way switch to screw on the final nut. From what I can gather, I need to either make the cavity a little deeper, or get a new switch.

The only question I have so far is, which way round do the pickups go? They have the black covers on them so I can't see the poles...
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/0620i-20131226_085635.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/f7y94-20131226_085724.jpg

WeirdBits
27-12-2013, 07:15 AM
You've got some nice looking spalt on the cap. For the pickups, the fatter pickup ring is the bridge and should taper towards the neck, the thinner ring is the neck pup and again should taper towards the neck (assuming the rings are correct).

With your switch you can either *carefully* rout the cavity slightly deeper, or get a switch with longer thread, or get a Deep Thread Nut (metric) for your switch from somewhere like ALS (http://luthierssupplies.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=141_63_448&products_id=1864). You may need to enlarge the diameter of the hole slightly to use a deep thread nut.

Timsan
27-12-2013, 10:49 PM
Yeah... I'll give the routing a big fat miss. I don't trust myself.


Can anyone recommend any reputable guitar electronics places in Australia that would have this sort of gear? Otherwise I'll have to mail order from StewMac. I'll keep Jaycar as a last resort.

Brendan
28-12-2013, 12:27 AM
Timsan - some 80 grit sandpaper will make the cavity hole a little deeper. Alternatively a Dremel with sanding / routing bit used carefully should be able to deepen it enough to get in there. Another thing to think of is that you'll be shielding the cavity and won't want any bare wires coming into contact with the shielding - it's easy to do and will be a real annoyance when you come to put it together.

stan
28-12-2013, 06:43 AM
Aussie places for parts:

http://luthierssupplies.com.au/

http://www.realparts.com.au/

I have used both and they are good

Stewmac and Guitarfetish in the States if you need to buy from OS

Timsan
28-12-2013, 07:24 AM
Awesome... Realparts are about a 15 minute drive from my place. It's nice to know there's a local guy.

Timsan
29-12-2013, 12:11 AM
Got bored with sanding... ;) Decided to play around with headstock ideas.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/i9yt9-20131228_103517.jpg

Timsan
29-12-2013, 12:20 AM
Between using the wire brush and the sanding, most of the glue stains have come out. However there is one persistent stain in the cutaway that looks pretty embedded.

There's also some fill under the binding that stands out a bit, as well as a stain on the binding. I'll do the best I can with it, but it might have to become a "feature" of this guitar.

I'll validate that by saying I'm not after perfection - from the outset I've been after a playable guitar that looks nice, and a bit different. I can live with a flaw or two at the end of the day.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/639zf-20131228_105742.jpg

Timsan
29-12-2013, 04:42 AM
The problem with the 3-way switch:

I've done a rough diagram, looking into the switch cavity from the back of the guitar.

The outer circle is the main cavity for the switch.
The inner (smallest) circle is the hole that the switch goes through.
The middle circle is a rout that is (presumably) there so that the switch is a little closer to the surface so that more thread comes through to the top...
But for some reason none of the circles are centred.

That shaded area is a 1-2mm lip, that prevents the switch from seating properly. The rectangle represents the switch casing, and one corner of the casing is sitting on that lip, preventing it from sitting flush against the back of the cavity.




http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/z4s04-20131228_152528s.jpg

stan
29-12-2013, 05:16 AM
mmmm, need to cut some timber, or will an angled toggle fit in?

Timsan
29-12-2013, 06:13 AM
The switch will fit if I leave off the second nut. There's enough thread for the jam nut on top of the Treble/Rhythm plate if I do it this way.

I might just go with this option, unless there's a compelling reason to have the other nut underneath the timber...

stan
29-12-2013, 09:34 AM
the two nuts act together to lock the timber between them, but if you don't get the top one loosening itself, then it's all good

djdubya
29-12-2013, 10:51 AM
Tim, be careful leaving the inner nut off. As Stan says the two nuts would normally act to clamp the timber between them so the load is taken on the threaded shaft. Leaving that nut off can see the top of the switch body stressed with the switch falling apart. I know because I've done it before and broken a switch...or two :(

Could you remove some of that shaded timber with a dremel tool or elongate the hole to get enough clearance perhaps?

Timsan
30-12-2013, 11:50 PM
I could... If I had one.

I might look into either a deep thread nut or maybe a switch with a longer thread/smaller housing. Jeez those Switchcraft components are bloody expensive.

Funds are incredibly tight at the moment. Once a couple of clients pay their outstanding invoices I will be able to buy a finish and get a decent rotary tool for future use. All I can do right now is continue sanding... probably not a bad thing, really..

Timsan
31-12-2013, 02:47 AM
Ok... I'm getting paranoid. How much sanding is enough?

wokkaboy
31-12-2013, 03:18 AM
Tim, don't over sand the spalted cap, they are very thin. As for rest of the body I'd keep sanding till there's no evidence of machine marks. The cutwaway photo above still shows you have some more sanding to do there. Wipe a cloth with turps over the body and this raises the grain and shows any machine marks or imperfections in the body surface.
Best of luck.
The DingoBass mantra is sand, sand, sand again, and when you think its finished sand again ! But this only applies to the body, not the cap !

Timsan
31-12-2013, 04:28 AM
Thanks, Wokka. That stain inside the cutaway is incredibly persistent. I've gotten rid of all the other glue stains, but that one remains...

Timsan
10-01-2014, 03:40 AM
The sanding continues... but it's given me time to consider the finish.

I have tossed up a few ideas, but not all of them have been good ones. It's hard to know how it will turn out without actual examples in front of me.

The one that is gaining traction seems to be Honey finish on the cap and front of the headstock, and Mahogany for the back and sides. I may be inclined to do a gradual darkening/burst of the Honey finish on the cap by adding extra coats of base to the outer edge. This would (hopefully) serve to deepen the colour as it transitions from the centre to the outer edge.

Has anyone tried this "single colour burst" idea before? It's kind of growing on me.

wokkaboy
10-01-2014, 04:13 AM
Tim, your colour selection sounds great. Light colour for the cap and you won't lose any grain feature.
Not sure if anyone has tried the single colour burst, it could work but it would be quite subtle unless you did about 3 or 4 deep coats of the outer edge, then 1 or 2 base coats in the centre and slowly blend the colours. I think it can work. Another way would be to mix say 1 part mahogany, 4 parts honey for the outer edge once its had a few honey coats, that could be a more effective burst. Try this on a test piece of wood first so the wudtone mix isn't too dark. Those ratios are only a guess, you will have to experiment. Best put the wudtone mix into a spare bottle and shake well. I'd mix enough for 2 or 3 applications so you keep the same consistency

Timsan
10-01-2014, 04:59 AM
Great idea, Wokka. That would definitely give me a more effective transition from the cap to the sides.

I'd be inclined to start at 1:10 or 1:20 and work the other way if necessary, gradually adding more Mahogany if needed. A small conundrum that I can forsee is the fact that Mahogany has a deep colour coat as well as the base, but Honey only has the base coat. How would I mix them in this case?

wokkaboy
10-01-2014, 05:29 AM
no problem Tim, I'd mix mahogany and honey base coats to get the darker edge. Only use the deep colour mahogany for sides and back). I'd first go over the whole cap with one coat of honey base coat and also give a sanded test piece of wood a coat (doesn't have to be big say 40 x 60mm). Then 24 hours curing. Then make up the mahogany/honey mix and apply to half of the test piece of wood to get an idea how the colours will look. I know different woods give different results but it will be a good indication. Once happy with the mix then have a honey base coat in separate lid and rag, and after ragging on outer coat of the miox go over the centre with honey base and then blend with a 3rd rag to avoid colour contamination. Hope this makes some sort of sense !

Timsan
10-01-2014, 05:52 AM
It does, mate. I also just watched the Wudtone videos on how to achieve a burst finish. I think I've got a handle on the process now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEefXGSPdao

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tW3cnaHlOQ

wokkaboy
10-01-2014, 06:48 AM
no worries Tim, its harder than it looks in the videos but you may have 'the knack'
good luck and post some pics of your progress. If you want you can probably just skip my step one and go straight into the burst with the honey and mahogany/honey mix but a test piece of wood is a good idea. Also steel wool is handy for rubbing out the darker colours

Timsan
11-01-2014, 03:50 AM
Haha, yeah... I kind of figured that it looked easier than it really was. I'll probably do a few practice runs on some offcuts before I start on the cap.

Could I use pine instead of maple as a testing medium? I'm struggling to think of where I'd find some maple offcuts to practice on.

wokkaboy
11-01-2014, 03:57 AM
Hey Tim, sure pine will give an indication on the colour of your mix with the straight honey. Practice on the test piece (before you start sand it to 240 grit or whatever grit you sanded the cap to). Make sure you have 3 rags so one being a blending rag

Timsan
16-01-2014, 04:32 AM
Sorted out the switch/nut issue... I found a 1/4" chisel, which I sharpened right up and used it to gently scrape away the excess timber inside the cavity. Fits like a glove now!

gavinturner
16-01-2014, 08:46 PM
Tim - we need some photos dude! Sounds like the build is progressing well.

cheers,
Gav.

Timsan
12-02-2014, 06:03 AM
The precious, precious Wudtone has arrived. I'm pretty damn stoked, because for a long time things have been so tight I couldn't afford the finish. Now it is here...

After what feels like aeons of sanding, I can start the first coat tomorrow!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/39u1z-20140211_164525.jpg

wokkaboy
12-02-2014, 06:07 AM
good stuff Tim, make sure you post some photos after the 1st coat. Whats the plan mahogany back/sides and honey cap ?

Timsan
12-02-2014, 06:32 AM
Pretty much that.

The plan for the cap is to do a subtle burst around the edge with a single run of the Mahogany deep colour, then normal coats of Honey over the top. I'll try a few things with some scrap pine to see if it works. Hopefully I can duplicate the effect on the front of the headstock as well.

The back and sides of the body, as well as the neck and back of the headstock will get the Mahogany treatment. I'll be starting that bit tomorrow so I can buy myself some time to experiment with the cap finish.

wokkaboy
12-02-2014, 06:55 AM
sounds like a good plan Tim, have you cut the headstock shape ? I'd do that before staining it.
Also use a separate rag for blending the 2 colours.
Your mahogany base colour bottle is nicely filled ! DB was generous that day !
Are you going to tape off the binding ? I found it too much hassle to do that, then put on new tape to do the sides. I found before each coat I'd steel wool the binding so it made the binding really smooth and wasn't a major task at the end of staining

Brendan
12-02-2014, 10:50 AM
Agree viz binding - go through the grits to your 600 - 800 & then steel wool. Gives the colour nothing to hold on to. Then you can give a gentle wool after coats and viola - back to original.

Timsan
12-02-2014, 11:08 AM
Sweet - I'll get onto that binding with the sandpapers, and get the headstock sorted.

lawry
14-02-2014, 11:03 PM
Pretty keen on seeing how this looks, Tim. The colours sound like they'll set it off brilliantly.

Timsan
15-02-2014, 02:28 AM
First coat went on last night! One coat of Mahogany deep colour and one base coat of Honey.

I chickened out of doing the burst effect and went for the consistent finish on the cap. The honey gives the timber a nice semi-aged appearance. I love the mahogany. It is so rich and the grain looks amazing.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/7vjw6-20140214_122124.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/45365-20140214_122233.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/eg9f3-20140214_132108.jpg

Timsan
15-02-2014, 02:31 AM
Got some pics of the neck and headstock as well:
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/n6b00-20140214_122436.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/61w9c-20140214_122418.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/nahm3-20140214_122348.jpg

gavinturner
15-02-2014, 04:33 AM
wow Tim, both the body and the headstock look sensational! The honey really brings out the beauty of the spalted maple. This is going to look amazing with the clear coats on!

cheers,
Gav.

lawry
15-02-2014, 05:24 AM
You've scored a fantastic cap on that beastie, Tim. I reckon the yellow/amber/orange colours really show off the spalty bits too. Great choice and looking hot!

Brendan
15-02-2014, 10:16 AM
Tim looking amazing - I can understand not wanting to go the burst - with grain like that it'd be criminal to take anything away from it!

adam
15-02-2014, 10:26 AM
Tim, agree with the others, you've really scored with that grain (it is a lucky dip), so go for a subtle finish to bring out that grain.

dingobass
15-02-2014, 11:06 AM
OMG.... That would have to be the most stunning spalt top I have seen in our kits! You lucky, lucky bugger! :)

Timsan
15-02-2014, 10:28 PM
Thanks, guys. It's turned out better than expected already, and the comments are very encouraging. I should have a little more faith in my ability. Definitely keen to start another kit now!

Bass Guy
16-02-2014, 06:29 AM
This is a beautiful LP, Timsan. Loving it!

Timsan
18-02-2014, 12:24 AM
Just a little teaser - the final colour coat went on today.

I'm heading to Rockhampton on Wednesday, so I'll put a gloss coat on tomorrow and then post a couple of pics when I get back.

lawry
18-02-2014, 06:13 AM
Why on earth would you wanna go to Rocky?

Timsan
18-02-2014, 06:28 AM
I'm doing a grad dip ed through CQU. Most of the course is online, but the tradeoff is that I'm required to go to a residential school a couple of times a year at their main campus in Rocky. Fun times!

Timsan
22-02-2014, 10:32 PM
OK... I'm back. Time for some pics.
These were taken after:
- 4 coats of Honey on the top;
- 1 deep colour and 3 coats of Mahogany base on the back 'n' sides;
- 1 coat of gloss, left to cure for 4 days.

Just put the second coat of gloss on, and I'm going to get a start on the soldering this afternoon. I'm pretty happy with it so far!


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/hm2e9-20140222_083846.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/mnf8t-20140222_083921.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/bz16l-20140222_084122.jpg

Timsan
22-02-2014, 10:37 PM
I must say I'm glad I went with Honey.

I wasn't 100% sure about it, since there aren't that many pics of it in use, either on this site or on the Wudtone website. But I wanted to try some colours that weren't being used much and were a bit different to the other builds I was seeing. It was a bit of a risk, but I think it's paid off.

stan
22-02-2014, 11:00 PM
hey Tim, it's looking fantastic.Great colour choices

Just watch the wudtone in the neck pocket and corresponding tenon on the neck - it can cause issues with adhesion of the glue, most guys tend to leave these as bare timber

Timsan
22-02-2014, 11:04 PM
OK, I'll sand it back there. Thanks for the tip!

stan
23-02-2014, 02:30 AM
cool, just the bits of the neck and guitar body where they touch ad will be glued together. It is looking really sharp, love it

Brendan
23-02-2014, 02:32 AM
Timsan - looking hot! Don't sand too much - you don't want to take it out of square. Also, before soldering - make sure you shield - it's a whole lot easier now than later! Last thing you want is for it to be tuning in the local ABC when you plug it in.

gavinturner
23-02-2014, 05:17 PM
Your spalt looks amazing Tim. Great colour choice. The mahogany back and sides also contrast perfectly! The more gloss you get on there the better she is going to look. Great job.

cheers,
Gav.

Timsan
23-02-2014, 11:32 PM
Done the shielding... almost. That was a nice little exercise in frustration and learning the joys of working with copper foil tape.

I had just enough to do the cavities, but not enough to shield the covers for the control cavity or 3-way switch. I tried to make sure that there was only a slight overlap between strips, but I still ran out of tape before I could finish the job. Another one or two strips and I'd have it sorted... :?

WeirdBits
24-02-2014, 01:09 AM
If you have some spray adhesive and thick aluminium foil that can work well for covers etc.

adam
24-02-2014, 01:27 AM
Hey Tim, I'm sure if you flick Dingobass an email, dingobass@pitbullguitars, he can post you a couple more strips of copper tape, if he has any spare. Just let him know how much more you need.

Timsan
24-02-2014, 03:39 AM
Thanks Adam, I'll drop him a line. Cheers!

Timsan
24-02-2014, 03:55 AM
Hi Adam, DB's email address isn't working... I got a "permanent failure" message back when I tried to email him.

adam
24-02-2014, 04:44 AM
sorry, I left off the ".com" it's dingobass@pitbullguitars.com.

Timsan
24-02-2014, 04:48 AM
My mistake, I should have picked that one up... thanks!

maxaxe
24-02-2014, 06:23 AM
Honey is unmistakably sweet - and so is this guitar.
Great to see a gamble pay off.

Timsan
24-02-2014, 06:38 AM
@maxaxe - thanks, man!

Timsan
28-02-2014, 05:33 AM
Hey Adam and DB, just received the extra tape in the mail. Thanks for helping out!

adam
28-02-2014, 10:01 AM
DB on the ball again! Our pleasure Tim.

Timsan
02-03-2014, 01:56 AM
Final coat of gloss went on two days ago. Started the soldering this morning! I've got to go out and tune a drum kit this arvo, so I'll get some more done when I get home.

She's coming together.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/n0h48-20140301_112134.jpg

Bass Guy
02-03-2014, 02:11 AM
That is looking beautiful!

lawry
02-03-2014, 06:02 AM
I'm still sooo envious of the cap you scored on that thing, Tim. Drop dead gorgeous.

lawry
02-03-2014, 06:02 AM
I'm still sooo envious of the cap you scored on that thing, Tim. Drop dead gorgeous.

Timsan
02-03-2014, 07:09 AM
Tanks lads. I definitely lucked out with that cap!

Timsan
03-03-2014, 05:42 AM
A spot of surgery last night...

I got all of the electronics in order over the last 24 hours. Thanks, Adam for putting that series of videos together! It mad a lot of sense of that bird's nest which is the Les Paul wiring system.
I found a nice little colour coding for the 3-way switch:

Output: Orange
Ground: Green
Blue: Bridge P/U
Purple: Neck P/U (there aren't many colours starting with N)

I tried to keep the blue wires for the Bridge P/U and purple for the neck P/U as much as possible. This helped a lot with keeping my right-brain on task.

Things are coming together now. It seems that building a guitar works on an exponential curve. The initial stages of sanding and applying the colour and top coats seem to take ages. But once they are done... BAM! the rest of it seems to come together relatively quickly.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/8522j-20140301_230346.jpg

Timsan
03-03-2014, 05:50 AM
A question I do have is the relevance of the "string ground" wire from the tail piece to the Neck Vol Pot (?). Do I need it?

I've done a bit of research online, and there doesn't seem to be an absolute consensus about it. In fact, ther is a lot of heated debate about it. I guess I'll suck it and see. If there's still some hum/buzz after it's all put together I'll go back and install a string ground wire.

Brendan
03-03-2014, 06:09 AM
Tim - if you're wanting to test with and without - I'd start with the ground wire in, but not connected. Pulling the guitar apart just to put a wire in is a pain...

Timsan
03-03-2014, 06:23 AM
Fair point. I'll stick one in just to be on the safe side. Do I solder it to the Bridge or Neck vol pot?

lawry
03-03-2014, 06:53 AM
Hi Tim. Watching this come together is pretty cool. As for your ground wire, it doesn't really matter where you join it as long as all the earths have continuity. It can be on the back of a pot or the output jack or anywhere.

stan
03-03-2014, 07:20 AM
looks so good Tim, nice

Timsan
03-03-2014, 11:29 PM
Thanks for the advice, guys. I've installed a string ground but haven't soldered it yet, just left it out of the way. I don't think I'll need it though.

It's all wired up and working. A couple of things I learnt:

- use at least a 40W soldering iron. I borrowed a 20W because my old one had packed it in, and it had a hard time heating up the pot housings. Got there in the end but the extra wattage would have helped a fair bit.

- Make sure none of the pot terminals are touching the shielding. The "hot" terminal of the bridge vol pot was touching the wall of the cavity, which caused it to a) not work, and b) stuff around with the neck pup when the selector switch was in the middle position. All sorted now. :)

Apart from that, I seem to have nailed it first go. No hum or buzz, and the pups and selector switch are working the way they should.

I'm going to get some different knobs, though. Because it's a lefty, the controls are back to front. Which means I get no noise when the dial says 10, and maximum shreddage when the dial says 0. I'll probably go for some without numbers or somesuch.

lawry
04-03-2014, 06:46 AM
Hi Tim,
Not sure what you mean by the numbering on the knobs. Didn't you use standard pots with standard wiring?
Do you rotate them in the opposite direction (anti-clockwise for 'more')? Because if you do, and you didn't put in reverse audio pots for the volume, then you'll have all your apparent volume changing in the first 10% -ish of rotation. Just curious here because I've never heard of pots being wired back to front even on a lefty.

Timsan
04-03-2014, 07:49 AM
Well... On both my basses (a Schecter and an Ibanez) the volume control is anticlockwise for more volume, clockwise for less. I didn't think this one would be any different. I'm at work now, but I'll double check the wiring tomorrow.

Timsan
04-03-2014, 07:59 AM
The other thought is that I might need to get reverse taper pots... But it being a left-handed kit, shouldn't they be that already?

lawry
04-03-2014, 08:27 AM
Well I'll be hornswaggled. I haven't heard of lefty pots as a matter of course.
With that being the case I would hope they have supplied you with reverse taper pots, Tim.
I guess it makes sense when I think about it. Be curious to know what you find.

adam
04-03-2014, 08:41 AM
Hey Tim, you know, I've never thought about this. We've sold at least a hundred Lefty kits and I've never heard from one customer to say the pots are for righties, so I'm assuming they do supply "lefty" pots. Let us know if that's not the case.

Timsan
05-03-2014, 05:38 AM
I've bunged the hardware and some strings on so that I could check the electronics. The pots are working properly, and they are the correct orientation for a lefty guitar. When you turn the volume up, the instinct is to turn the knob down and away from you towards your fretting hand. On a righty, that means the direction is clockwise, and on a lefty it's anticlockwise. So things are all good there, which means that the pots are correct but the knobs are the wrong way round. :)

Adam, I'm going to hazard a guess here, and say that most of the lefty kits that people have bought would be ST-1 or TL-1 types, where the electronics are pre-installed, with the relevant knobs already in place? This would possibly explain why there hasn't been any major issues like this before. I'd be interested to know whether anyone else has done a lefty G-type kit and encountered this.

I will get some different knobs though... I saw these water buffalo horn knobs (http://www.realparts.com.au/knobs/other-knobs/water-buffalo-horn-knob-set-of-2.html) at Realparts that took my fancy.

Anyway, here she is... Almost there. She looks the business and makes a noise, but she needs a proper setup before I get too excited. The action is pretty low and the nut needs a bit of filing. I'm going to take it to a guitar tech mate of mine for the relevant surgery.



http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/hp83k-20140304_161023.jpg

lawry
05-03-2014, 07:27 AM
Man,that looks hot Tim. I've never been much of a fan of LPs but that is cool! Even if it is the wrong way round. Excellent build mate.

Dengreg
05-03-2014, 07:33 AM
Looks good. Might have too look at a G-type later in the year.

stan
05-03-2014, 09:36 AM
nice Tim, I am a lefty too, so keep it locked up...

gavinturner
05-03-2014, 09:48 AM
Beautiful Tim. That's one awesome LP you have there.

cheers,
Gav.

sulistbu
11-03-2014, 08:01 PM
Ohhhhhhhhh TimSan that guitar is lookin' HOT!!!! I am still waiting for my LP (first build) but seeing yours I am ready to take on another one like it ... YES SIR BRING IT ON (sorry got too excited). Also with the guitar control have you tried reversing the pots wiring. Anyway congratulation on your excellent build.
Regards
Budi

Brendan
12-03-2014, 11:07 AM
That's looking very sweet TimSan - almost makes me want to go 6 string...

lawry
12-03-2014, 11:27 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Brendan on March 11, 2014, 20:07
That's looking very sweet TimSan - almost makes me want to go 6 string...

It's OK Brendan, you can go six string. Try the IB-6S :-)

Brendan
12-03-2014, 12:50 PM
Lawry - LOL. Let me get over an IB-5 and the therapy from an ESB-4 first...

Fretworn
13-03-2014, 01:08 AM
Looking very nice.