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Gavin1393
27-09-2013, 05:36 AM
Setting up your Intonation

When you have your guitar strung up and tuned, you need to check the curvature of the neck.
You may see on other websites that a gap of 1/64” (0.4mm) - 1/32” (0.8mm) is required…so what does that look like, especially if you don’t have an engineers rule or other measuring device?
A standard credit card is about 0.65mm and standard business card is about 0.3mm. You can probably find these two things in your wallet or purse.
Get them out and have them handy.

Pick up your guitar and hold it in the playing position.
Put a capo or small clamp on the first fret (closest to the nut) to hold the string down.
The string needs to be contacting the first metal fret.
You can also have a friend hold down the low E string.
Next, with your picking hand, hold down the low E string at the 17th fret.
As you should see, the string forms a straight edge between the first and 17th frets.

There should be a slight gap between the E string and the 9th fret.
If not, your neck has “back bow”, which we’ll address later.
Still holding the string down, use your free hand and try to slide the business card under the E string right on top of the 9th fret.
If it slides under the string without contact, try the credit card.
If the credit card slides in without contact, try the two cards together.
If this doesn’t make contact, your neck needs some work!
Ideally, the business card should clear the string, but the credit card shouldn’t.
If the credit card clears the fret and string with ease, we have some “bow”, or relief in the neck.

On most guitars, the same rule for truss rods holds true: Right is tight, left is loose.(Pit Bull Guitars have a two way truss rod)
Looking at the truss rod adjustment on top of the neck near the tuners, the right/left arrangement is from the top of the neck looking toward the body of the guitar.
If you have back bow, you need to loosen the truss rod, or turn the nut on the truss rod left.
If you have bow, you need to tighten the truss rod, or turn the nut on the truss rod to the right.

As a technique, It is a good thing to always loosen the truss rod before adjustment.
If you start cranking the truss rod down, and it is already pretty tight, you may break it, and this is something you won't be able to fix at home in an afternoon.

There are generally two types of adjusters on truss rods: A nut for Gibson style truss rods, and a hex-head screw for just about everything else.

The hex-head is type is used on Pit Bull guitars.
Make sure the hex-head driver that came with your guitar is well seated – you don’t want to strip it out, or again your have trouble on your hands.
Generally about a ¼ turn is enough to move the neck.
If you move it more than a full turn, you may have an issue.

Step Three: Check string height at the nut.
To check the height of the nut, start at the low E string, and fret it on the third fret (a “G” note).
The string should be sitting on the first fret, or just above it, close enough just to see some light through the gap between the string and the fret.
Try holding the string down on the third fret and "tap" the string above the first fret, kind of like checking the neck relief.
You should be able to press the string down just ever so slightly onto the first fret.

Try this procedure for all of the strings.
If there is a big gap, your nut needs some work.
Can you fix this? You can if you have some nut files.
You can also use a set of old strings as they will act like files.
Hold them the same way you would hold a piece of dental floss and file the slot, always angling down towards the headstock.

Alternatively, you can remove the nut by gently tapping it with a plastic faced hammer.
Then clean away the glue residue from the nut and slot with a small file.
Next, fix a piece of 180 grit sand paper to a flat surface and rub the base of the nut.
Take your time, checking the string height regularly until you have achieved the correct height.

The height at the nut is critical to a good playing guitar.
If it is too high, the string will be too low at the 12th fret, probably causing a nasty buzz and intonation problems.

Before you continue, take a look at your bridge -- we're heading there next.
If you look at both bridges pictured below, you can see that the saddles on both are arranged similarly, with an adjustable saddle for each string.

Gibson-style Bridge

This bridge has six individually-adjustable saddles which are adjusted using the screws you can see at the bottom of the bridge facing the stop tailpiece.
The screws have a slot head, requiring a flat-head screwdriver.

On some guitars these screws face the other way (usually on the older or replica models).
If you have to adjust a saddle, place a soft cloth below where you're going to insert the tip of the screwdriver. This will help you avoid gouging the top of your guitar if you slip.

Turn the screw clockwise to move the saddle back and counterclockwise to move it forward.
Make small turns because a little turn can make a lot of difference.
After every adjustment to the position of the saddle, re tune the string to pitch and compare the 12th fret note and the open string.
Repeat the operation until the string has the correct intonation, then move on to the next string.

Fender-style Bridge

Although the Fender bridge looks different, the principles of setting the intonation are exactly the same as a Gibson bridge.

You move the saddles with an adjustment screw (in this case, a Phillips head screw) until the note at the 12th fret and the open string are the same.
Note: If these saddles are in a straight line, the guitar is probably not set up properly!

Step Four: Set the approximate positions of the string saddles on the bridge.

First, determine the scale of your guitar.
Measure from the body-side of the nut to precisely over the 12th Fret.
If you double this measurement, you have the scale of your guitar.

Using the distance from the nut to the 12th fret (we’ll call this measurement “x”), measure from the 12th fret to the bridge.
Using the screws on the back of the saddle, set the individual saddles to the following specs:

Note: It is easier to make the initial adjustments with the strings loosened.
Once you set the saddles, tune the guitar back to pitch.

Low E:
1/8” or 3.2mm longer than X
A:
1/16” or 1.6mm longer than X
D:
1/32” or0.8mm longer than X
G:
1/8” or 3.2mm longer than X
B:
1/16” or 1.6mm longer than X
High E:
1/32” or 0.8mm longer than X

We get the final settings once we get our saddle height, but this will get us close.

Step Five: Set string height at saddles.

Measure at the twelfth fret and set saddles so the height between the bottom of the low E string and the top of the twelfth fret is about 1/16" or 1.6mm.
The High E should set just at 1/16” or 1.6mm, this is about two credit card widths above the 12th fret (we know you have at least two credit cards!).

The other strings should be the same height, following the radius of the fretboard.
This is easy with the Gibson bridge -- just crank it up and down, and the shape of the bridge conforms to the fingerboard in most cases.
The Fender-style bridge has more adjustment range, and it may take a little more time to set it up.

Remember – This is a starting point to get your saddles set.
Your playing style may make you either raise or lower the saddles. We’re just trying to get in the ballpark.

When you complete this, the saddles on your bridge should be somewhere in the middle of their adjustment range.
If they are sitting flush on the body, or maxed out, your neck angle needs to be adjusted.
This can be done by using shims in the neck pocket.

To make a shim, get some photocopy paper and spray it with some epoxy type paint.
Let this dry and then cut to the shape of the neck pocket.
Next, cut it in half (width ways).
If your neck needs to slope back more, place the shim at the body end of the neck pocket. If it needs to come forward, at the open end of the pocket.
Bolt the neck back on and test the angle, repeat if needed.

Step Six: Fine tune the intonation setting with a tuner.

What we are going to do here is actually adjust the length of each string. This is the only way to make sure your guitar will play in tune all the way up the neck. You’ll need an electronic tuner for this job. You’ll need some small screwdrivers --flat tip or Phillips, depending on your bridge.

Follow these steps:
1. Hold the guitar in the playing position.
2. Hook up the electronic tuner and put it in a position where you can see it clearly.
3. Tune the entire guitar. Make sure you take your time and get it as precise as possible.
4. Start with the low E string. Play the string with a pick, and make sure it is in tune. Next, fret the string at the 12th fret, play the string, and check the tuning. It should show an E in tune.
5. If the note played at the 12th Fret is in tune like the open string, the string is properly intonated. If is isn’t continue to step 6.
6. If the note played at the 12th Fret is flat (below E), take your screwdriver and move the saddle toward the pickups. If the note was sharp (Above E), move the saddle away from the pickups. The General Rule: Flat = Forward
7. Continue this process until the open string and that same string fretted at the 12th fret are in perfect tune with each other.
8. Continue this process for all strings, and keep going back and checking the settings for each one.


Video - Setting up your Intonation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nZD_9SY1dI

Scott J.
27-09-2013, 07:47 AM
Great stuff Gav ... well done! Clear, easily followed instructions and really informative (if only my Uni tutors were as adept at giving instructions! :D) ... I especially like the "credit card/business card" tip

Gavin1393
27-09-2013, 08:50 AM
Cool! It works very well! I actually wrote this as a response to a question but because we at Pit Bull are constantly improving things I needed this article under its own thread so it would be easier to search and find!

DrNomis_44
07-04-2016, 03:19 AM
@ Gavin1393 I might give your setup-method a go once I finish my STA-1M kit build, particularly the way you initially set up the string-saddles for intonation.

dave.king1
07-04-2016, 05:41 AM
@ Gavin1393 I might give your setup-method a go once I finish my STA-1M kit build, particularly the way you initially set up the string-saddles for intonation.

G'day doc,

With the Strat the floating Trem makes it an interesting process because changing the tension on any string causes the bridge to move thus changing the intonation.

I also find that using 9s or 10s on the Strat three Trem springs is all you need

A great write up Gav and an excellent reference for the newbies and a good reminder for the not so newbies

DrNomis_44
07-04-2016, 06:11 AM
G'day doc,

With the Strat the floating Trem makes it an interesting process because changing the tension on any string causes the bridge to move thus changing the intonation.

I also find that using 9s or 10s on the Strat three Trem springs is all you need

A great write up Gav and an excellent reference for the newbies and a good reminder for the not so newbies


That's true, but I happen to know a way around that, basically, it involves putting a piece of material underneath the bridge to get it to float at the correct angle with respect to the top of the guitar body to allow pull-ups on the Trem, then you tighten the tension on the springs.


I'll do a write-up about it in my STA-1M build diary to further explain it.

dingobass
07-04-2016, 12:13 PM
Have I mentioned how much I dislike de tuning sticks on Guitars? :p

wokkaboy
07-04-2016, 12:30 PM
DB add it to the 55 terabyte document of DB's dislikes hahah

keloooe
07-04-2016, 12:33 PM
DB add it to the 55 terabyte document of DB's dislikes hahah

It's already listed on the other 54 terabytes!

wokkaboy
07-04-2016, 12:53 PM
how many chapters are in this DB dislike document Pest ?

I'm waiting for a 55+ terabyte drive to come out so I can get a copy bwhahahhaha

DrNomis_44
07-04-2016, 08:15 PM
Have I mentioned how much I dislike de tuning sticks on Guitars? :p



Some people like them and some people don't, just imagine how boring the world would be if everyone liked the same things, diversity is cool.

FlyHog85
30-09-2016, 01:57 AM
I'm having troubles with the guitar breaking strings once string up. Im nit sure what the issue is as I've checked for burrs and neck distance to the bridge etc. Is there something I'm missing here?

Brendan
30-09-2016, 12:43 PM
Good to see you've got this nutted Fly...

Zandit75
31-10-2016, 11:52 AM
On my LP Build, I've been able to perfectly intonate the A string, all the way to the top E String.
The Bass E string is still a little Sharp when checking the octave, and I've run out of adjustment on the bridge.
Any suggestions?

wazkelly
31-10-2016, 02:57 PM
Sometimes you may need to flip the saddle 180 degrees so that the more perpendicular face is at the rear. If it is already this way around best to wait for another expert to drop in with their comments.

Zandit75
31-10-2016, 03:15 PM
Yeah I thought that would be workable, but it already is facing that direction. I'll continue waiting I guess!

wazkelly
31-10-2016, 08:01 PM
Hi mate, had a look at the completed build and the bridge is facing the right way as are the bridge saddles. All you can do is wind that sucker back as far as it will go.

How sharp is it? to reduce the sharpness the string needs to be lengthened and if out by a lot that means repositioning the neck as I presume Bridge post holes were already pre-drilled. If out by a smidgen maybe raise the bridge on that side a bit as that will lengthen the string a tad. String gauges play their small part too and have copied in this extract found on the web.....Yes, string gauge DOES affect intonation. If your bridge saddles are as far back as they can go (or a fixed bridge) and your intonation is still a couple of cents sharp, use a .001 or .002 Thinner gauge string to flatten the intonation. Conversely, use a thicker gauge string to automatically Sharpen intonation without moving the saddle(s).
Not sure what came with the kit but LP's usually end up with 10-46 which is what I am gradually migrating to however bending notes takes a bit more effort compared to the 9-42 sets I have been using for over 30 years. In this instance maybe switching to 9-42 set might give you the correct low E intonation?

Zandit75
01-11-2016, 04:40 AM
Thanks Waz, most appreciated.
I checked it again last night, and it was closer than what it was the other night, so I'm going to leave it.
I still have the Chinese strings fitted, I was going to put on the Ernie Balls I got with the kit, but the G-String is rusted.
I'm looking at getting a heavier set anyway, I don't feel comfortable with these flimsy feeling strings! I'm too used to acoustic strings.

wazkelly
01-11-2016, 04:35 PM
Cheers buddy. Don't go any heavier than 10-46 as that is what is standard recommended for a LP and thicker will push that low E harmonic a bit sharper.

Simon Barden
01-11-2016, 06:29 PM
Zandit, if you are using the ABR type bridge that came with the kit and you are still having intonation issues, then changing to a Nashville style tune-o-matic might help, as they have a greater range of fore-and-aft travel on them compared to an ABR type. However, hopefully changing to a good set of fresh new strings will solve your issues.

Zandit75
01-11-2016, 09:39 PM
Thanks guys, I'll look into it all.
Simon, do you happen to have a link to a Nashville style bridge? I come from an acoustic background, so all of this is new to me!

Simon Barden
01-11-2016, 10:38 PM
It's a Gibson designed bridge and they swapped to using it over the older style ABR tune-o-matic bridge when they moved their factory to Nashville - hence the name. The design stops the saddles falling out with no strings on (as happened on the ABR bridge) and as mentioned before, the saddles have more adjustment (to allow for sloppier Gibson construction methods).

Here's a link to a Schaller one:

Schaller-Nashville-Nickel-Tunematic-Bridge (https://www.allparts.com/GB-0540-001-Schaller-Nashville-Nickel-Tunematic-Bridge_p_1564.html)

They do them in black as well.

14828

Note the wider, flatter top compared to the thinner ABR type you have.

Loads of companies make them; you can chose from very cheap Chinese ones from eBay up to (what I consider the best) US-supplied TonePros ones. The only thing to beware of is that some have metric sized post holes and post screw threads (typically for guitars made in Japan/China/Korea) and some use imperial (typically those made in the US). I suspect metric would match your existing posts. But even then, some have small post holes and some have bigger post holes (typically those for Epiphone guitars). But its one of those things that your local guitar store should have in stock, so you can take your existing bridge down there and they should be able to match it for you (though they may have to order it in black).

Simon Barden
01-11-2016, 10:39 PM
You're now going to tell me that your nearest guitar store is 80 miles away!

Zandit75
02-11-2016, 04:25 AM
Haha, no I have 2 shops within 20mins of my place, but they are not large shops, so it would be interesting to see if they have something available.