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57strummers
13-09-2013, 12:58 AM
Woohoo, my first go! :D 8O 8-)
Just received my TL-1 kit a couple of days ago and am getting myself ready. Headstock has been cut modeled on my Telecaster. Just looking now for a Tele that I can model my build from. I am very keen to do a moderate 'RELIC' build, initially looking to paint White Blond or Vintage Blond, just cruzed through the Fender colour chart and so many other great colours available. I do like the darker blues like the Blue Burst... damn decisions decisions....

http://www.fender.com/en-AU/support/color-chart/


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/34ahc-IMG_1212.JPG

AJ
13-09-2013, 01:05 AM
Nicely done there Chris :)

Relic('ing tips 101)
just do a perfect job.. then tow it behind your car up the driveway... or give to the grandkids to play with for 5 nano sec...

on second thought - maybe not the grandkids.. you want to be able to still use it..

AJ
13-09-2013, 01:13 AM
And I bid you a warm welcome to the forum Chris, great to see you here matey

stan
13-09-2013, 01:42 AM
Welcome Chris, can't go wrong with a Tele - vintage white with black pickguard would look great.
However, check out the wudtone colour options as well

goatis 1
13-09-2013, 05:33 AM
gday chris , teles are awesome , theyre the AK47 of guitars , im in the process of modding a coupla cheap brand ( they have awesome necks tho ) thinlines ...... tho if your seriously going to do a relic , strap a tele on and stand in front of a mirror or something and take note of where the wearing would occur , my gripe with most relic jobs ( not the authentic old axes ) is that the people wear and ding the body in places that would never see that kinda wear ( but thats just me lol )

gavinturner
13-09-2013, 06:19 AM
G'day Chris, welcome to the forum.
The headstock looks cool! Enjoy your build and keep us all up to date! It won't be your last ;).

Cheers,
Gavin.

wokkaboy
13-09-2013, 06:36 AM
yes Chris, welcome to the forum family, if you have read any threads on the forum you will be well aware of tele nappers. You will be ordering another kit as soon as you finished the tele. Good luck and Goatis has a good point about where you put the wear marks on the axe !

57strummers
13-09-2013, 10:08 PM
Thanks all for the warm welcome great to see an Aussie support site!!!! And thanks for the tip above goatis I have an American Standard Tele and I can certainly strap it on and check it out to determine where wear may occur (mine is a triple sunburst with Custom Shop Pickups.... my kit is going to look great painted and really looking forward to hearing it... so many colours to choose from....

GlennGP
14-09-2013, 09:52 AM
TBH, I don't really get the relic'd thing - I like the idea of starting with a beautiful guitar and having it build character over its life. But hey, I'm also a fan of creativity and enthusiasm and, also, Teles, so go big or go home!

Brendan
14-09-2013, 02:04 PM
Welcome along Chris - yes, there does seem to be a thing about Teles on this site.

57strummers
17-09-2013, 11:30 PM
Making good progress and some pics to come soon. Yes Glenn many people I speak with don't see the point, in my opinion any guitar is a beautiful instrument :), I have an American Standard, a LP Standard, a Gretsch and am looking at something a little different for my 4th so I thought this would be a nice addition to the collection. Some are very heavily done and I don't like those so I am looking at a suttle approach and quite excited about the results I am getting atm. This one is going to be dedicated almost to open G tuning so that I can rock with some Stones tunes... and am going to replicate either a 52 or 62 vintage sound.

57strummers
18-09-2013, 01:00 AM
Does anyone know what the difference if any would be to replacing the 250k pots in my kit with 500k pots and associated capacitor, its a very cheap upgrade but won't go to the trouble if the results aren't worth it....

57strummers
18-09-2013, 01:36 AM
Getting ready for the first primer coat
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/6w1f0-IMG_1209.JPG

WeirdBits
18-09-2013, 05:04 AM
Single coil F-style guitars typically use 250K pots to help tame some of the highs. Using 500K pots will bleed less treble, so the sound will be 'brighter' (and/or possibly more ice-picky, depending on pickups and everything else etc). Regarding caps, if you mean replacing a 0.047uf with a 0.022, that will also have the effect of making the sound brighter, as the lower value 0.022 cap will allow less high frequencies to go to ground through the tone control. It may be better to 'hear' the guitar before deciding on different cap and pot values. But, ultimately, it's about your own ears... if you want a brighter sound, go with a larger pot and/or a smaller cap.

This thread about pot values (http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=42&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=472) from Gav may also help.

57strummers
18-09-2013, 09:59 PM
Thanks Scott, very good information and yes I will definately have a listen before changing anything unless of course there is some evidence that something is very much well worth the effort in the beginning, the info you provided on the Pots is great as I am a musician not a tech! (well I am an IT freak but that don't count). I will be looking for a sound that is different to my American Standard (Custom Shop) so some changes may be required or I may just get it out of the box. I am off to Billy Hydes/Allan's to try out some models today which will give me a better idea of what to aim for. Very excited out that!! A room full of guitars and I can play any of them!!!

Got all my stains for aging the neck yesterday and slimmed down the head stock a bit as on review it was a bit beefier than I really wanted much closer to the Tele Standard I have.... (there is merit in going slow and review, check, check, check lol), tomorrow should be running up the first lot of stain.

Chris

57strummers
20-09-2013, 01:01 AM
First coat of stain to age the neck by a quick 20 years... lol
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/p1edc-IMG_1267.JPG

57strummers
20-09-2013, 03:22 AM
Not sure whether these pics show the progress.. colour lot lighter and has a dirty tinge to it.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/806m2-IMG_1276.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/a4c60-IMG_1275.JPG

57strummers
20-09-2013, 03:28 AM
Not sure if you guys can see the details.. light wear marks and decrease in colour intensity around 3rd to 7th and 12-15th frets. Wear marks around head stock ready for a light touching of black to show some 'roadworn' dirt.

I rubbed to colour down with a green domestic scouring pad which has given the gold base colour a dirty look.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/5t7d3-IMG_1276.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/9w8b2-IMG_1275.JPG

57strummers
22-09-2013, 11:04 AM
Seems some of my progress pics are not showing... dumb ass hackers... so here they are again...

so a little behind... so their is some progress there.... more co-ord now our site is back up
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/9f1ir-IMG_1279.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/6w36i-IMG_1281.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/w36bw-IMG_1284.JPG

57strummers
22-09-2013, 11:19 AM
The neck is only the first coat... more to follow, going to clean up the hardware a little as well...

SIMpleONe89
22-09-2013, 01:03 PM
What did you use for your colour coat?

23-09-2013, 03:06 AM
Well I like Teles too, and that head-stock looks as good as any.

57strummers
23-09-2013, 05:41 AM
This is what I am using as primer, picked it up from REPCO under $20 think it was $12.95 can't recall. To be honest it doesn't seem to spray that well but have persevered anyway, what you see is one coat sanded down with a cork block and 180 grit paper, next coats I will use 240 grit and higher to give a nice smooth finish in readiness for the final colour. You need to use a cork block (or other flat block) so you don't create little valleys when you are sanding which you will do if you sand with the paper around your fingers.

Next step to fit the neck in place to set out the bridge position, I have upgraded that to a Wilkinson Compensated Saddle Tele Bridge - Chrome that has brass hardware on it which will suit my relic look better and this one also gives me the option of running the strings through the back of the bridge or through the body - which I am told does give you different sounds and intonation depending on what you use. Here is the link if anyone is interested in this http://www.realparts.com.au/bridges-tailpieces/telecaster/wilkinson-compensated-saddle-tele-bridge.html (Adam not sure you like links posted to other stores - if you don't let me know and I will remove it).

I have also ordered a 4 way switch to replace the standard 3 way switch, this will give you an extra setting that places the two pickups in Series to obtain a beefier sound (kinda loosely like a humbucker I am told) the 4 way switch also maintains the standard middle switch position that places the two pickups in Parallel. the switch upgrade is cheap and easy to do, the switch is about $12.00 plus delivery if you can't get it local. A little more information here if you are interested http://www.singlecoil.com/docs/4way.pdf . What I like about this upgrade is if you don't like the extra sound the 4 way gives you, you still have the other 3 standard switch positions available to you... win win!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/ha9b6-IMG_1209.JPG

goatis 1
23-09-2013, 02:55 PM
i havent used repco stuff , but ive used the Septone and Motospray spray pack stuff , my favorite is Motospray one step primer putty ( its a yellowy/gold colour ), its high build stuff and you can use just it on bare wood and with a few coats does everything from a bit of a pore filler ( unless the pores are like small craters ) right through to being a primer for colour paint , and its easy to sand and you can get it smooth as glass , AND you can spray acrylic , enamel and nitro cellulose car paint ( and a lot of other things ) straight over the top .
the only problems it has is depending on the wood it might soak in a bit , and with some paints , like metallics , it might soak them up a bit but easily fixed with a thin normal primer coat .

a bit of a tip when your spraying with spray packs is to find a container ,like a liter measuring jug , and fill it with hot water from the tap , and sit the can in that for 10 mins or so before you use it ( give it a good shake every coupla mins as well ) , this will get the paint upto a nice temp and itll flow a lot better .
another little tip is when your down to the last quarter or 5th of a can , squash it under your foot some , putting a nice dent in the side of the can will give it a tiny bit more pressure and make it a bit more consistent with what the paint was like at the start of the can

57strummers
23-09-2013, 09:45 PM
Great tip thanks for that, I did think the paint was quite thick which was affecting the ability to spray. I will heat it up a little and see how that goes for the next coat, this product looks good as it undercoat/primer for all known acrylic and enamel paints (or so it claims), it did cover very well I must say and would recommend it for other users. I only have a couple more coats to do will stop at 3 if it looks ok before I start looking at colours so I probably wont lose pressure but if I do will certainly jump on it a little!

stan
24-09-2013, 07:06 AM
Nice subtle relic look - the finger board looks great

57strummers
24-09-2013, 11:22 AM
Yes the finger board and the back look great, the headstock not so good Stan. Out with the sandpaper to get it off and start again.... cleaning up now and smoothing the timber with steel wool had to use 180 grit to get the black off.. :(
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/w0vbe-IMG_1295.JPG

57strummers
24-09-2013, 11:51 AM
Ok sanding finished and first antique coat on... looking a lot better another coat and a gentle rub tomorrow and things will be looking heaps better.

57strummers
24-09-2013, 11:59 AM
This pic without the flash.... more accurate looking
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/9f9nt-IMG_1297.JPG

AJ
24-09-2013, 12:02 PM
looking great matey

57strummers
25-09-2013, 05:00 AM
Can anyone see the pics I posted, just seeing a cross out.... if you can't see them let me know and I will delete and upload them it is kinda like the upload link is no longer valid

Tim
25-09-2013, 12:02 PM
Welcome aboard Chris
Just a idea to get the relic look.
Once your axe is painted tape sandpaper to your arms and play your guitar this should give you that relic look

57strummers
27-09-2013, 10:30 AM
Good progress today, relic'ed my new nobs for the solid shaft 250k pots and the Wilkonson bridge, very happy how the bridge turned out. Drilled all the holes for through body strings and got the final two coats of all surface primer, ready for the first top coat tomorrow. I was up at Repco looking at their vast range of vintage/aged type whites and got a can of Alpine White to give a go... if it isn't what I am looking for it will form an undercoat... lol... at $12.95 a can I am happy to change if not happy with the colour.
The knobs are sitting on a piece of old timber not the TL body.... lol
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/38703-IMG_1307.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/uojgg-IMG_1308.JPG

AJ
27-09-2013, 11:38 AM
looking good there

57strummers
28-09-2013, 12:21 PM
Test fit up, everything looking ok. Just doing the end colour, the off-white (alpine white) is a bit light for my liking.... looking for a more 'vintage' white colour. Off to SuperCheap Auto tomorrow hopefully they have something a little more on the yellowish side
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/09cr0-IMG_1303.JPG

Tim
29-09-2013, 11:51 AM
would rubbing the body down with tea give it an aged look. ?
ohh And its looking good

57strummers
30-09-2013, 04:36 AM
Now that is a good idea Tim, the pic there doesn't have any top coats on so the colour is looking different but I do like that idea (I have seen it on youtube before) once I rub some of the areas down to bare timber where you would expect stage wear just to darken up the timber colour without the need for stain. The white is showing up all the timber inconsistencies and I am glad I have gone this way first time, if I were to go a second kit I would definately put a sander across the top and bottom to level those faces off better than out of the box before starting on either a stain or painted top, or if I wasn't going to relic it I would have had to sand down after the first primer coat otherwise it would affect the final coat..

The white I originally used (Alpine White) is too white for an aged look so I picked up a can of Torquay Sand today which gives a yellower colour... will try that today and see how it looks :)

stan
30-09-2013, 06:31 AM
looking great so far - nice job on the bright wear

Brendan
30-09-2013, 09:15 AM
Chris - the basswood really needs a good sand before any finish is applied... Not only can it be a bit rough, but people have also found glue patches and polished areas on their guitars (though the bad glue experiences seem to be fewer and further between)... These will resist pretty much any finish as it won't have anything to key to, so I'd strongly suggest hand sanding to at least 240 grit.

DB's mantra - sand, sand, sand and then when you think you've sanded enough sand again is well deserved.

57strummers
30-09-2013, 10:24 AM
Yes thanks Brendan, overall it was ok but I can see some imperfections... I went with a darker colour today and unfortunately the spray can blew its seal and was a bit of a mess only get the edges and 95% of the front done but it has given me time to review the colour and I don't like it. so back to the store tomorrow to show them and will change the colour to what I originally had I think.

Never seen this happen to a spray pack before
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/5l19q-IMG_1311.JPG

SIMpleONe89
30-09-2013, 10:18 PM
You can try Bunning's White Knight Touchup paint. I used the classic cream for my project. Warning though, it takes long to cure and can be easily dented.

57strummers
01-10-2013, 12:46 AM
Oh I will check that out thanks mate, I did get another can of Alpine white (Holts Dupli-Color DSH53) a few coats on now and it seems to be getting closer to the colour I am after, and noting I am relic'ing this beauty I can add other colours to the body at any time very easily. Will check out that colour when there next.

Tuning pegs are looking good now..... Suttle
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/5wesf-IMG_1312.JPG

robin
01-10-2013, 12:39 PM
Looking good Chris.

Sorry if you have already mentioned it, but how are you ageing the metal hardware, I really like the subtle look.

thanks
rob

57strummers
01-10-2013, 09:34 PM
Hi Robin, not sure if I have posted before.... I use this process http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoA0O6kSBqk I use Hydrochloric acid as well, I did notice on the bottle you use this type of acid to equalise pool water so if you have acid you use in a pool I would try that, I have 5 litres up back :(
Depending on the quality of the bits you are going to age I would start with about 1-1/2 hours in the fume bath... take them out (must wear good rubber gloves) leave for a bout 15 mins and then wash them clean... leave for about an hour and see how they look - the aging process continues for a bit after you wash so bear that in mind. Not huge amount though but something to be aware of. You can help the process along a bit on the harder coated bits like nobs and tuning pegs by rubbing lightly around parts of the surface you want particular attention to which will help the aging process also... for instance on the volume nob (which is probably handled more than the tone one) you might rub the edges with a green kitchen scourer on different parts to age that a little more... Basically there are no hard rules just don't leave the bits in there too long.... and do the aging in small doses.

Please be aware you are using a very toxic product in acid and you do need to take the correct safety precautions... the gas is vicious so wear a mask, heavy rubber gloves and long sleeve shirt so you don't get any on you and make sure you use it outdoors or in a ventilated area. If you do get some on you get it off real quick otherwise you will know about it.

SIMpleONe89
01-10-2013, 10:12 PM
I saw another video of a guy using bleach, and leaving it too long in bleach will cause it to be overdone.

57strummers
02-10-2013, 12:45 AM
Yes and I think you can score the bits and put into a cold cup of tea as well, the acid seems to be the most commonly used method and the quickest.

Fretworn
02-10-2013, 02:19 AM
In Will Kelly (from Hard Knocks Guitars) book he uses PCB etchant which he brushes onto tissues that are placed over the surface to be aged. He does every metal part, except the tuning machines and the bridge saddles and intonation screws. He even does the heads of the pickguard screws that way.

57strummers
02-10-2013, 02:56 AM
Yes I seen that also on a YouTube clip from him and did check JayCar to get some unfortunately they didn't have any which surprised me. In any case there are a few ways to get it done and you need to choose which you are comfortable with I have only used the acid so can only put forward my experience with that product.

robin
02-10-2013, 05:17 AM
Thanks for that Chris, (and Simple and Geoff).

Knowing my ham fisted approach to most things this sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, but it's good to know how it's done. I really like how yours has turned out. I'm a bit over the "drag it behind a truck" approach to aging guitars.

Cheers mate,
rob

57strummers
02-10-2013, 11:24 AM
robin, if you are really interested in the look and want some help I am in Sydney and would be more than happy to assist you to achieve what you are after, if you want help let me know and we can correspond via email or something.... You have a need someone should be able to help you....

57strummers
02-10-2013, 11:32 AM
So moving on the new 4 way switch was deeper than the kit one so had to route the hole a little deeper protected the paint job with a copy of Honky Tonk Woman!!!. Trip to JayCar to get some wire to hookup the upgraded pots and switch... looking might be a little heavier than what I need so may need to go and get a smallerdifferent gauge of wire so I don't fill up the channel with over-sized insulated wire. The items cost $1.65 so another trip for lighter gauge will not be an issue, store is close by.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/2of40-IMG_1313.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/u06o0-IMG_1314.JPG

robin
02-10-2013, 12:04 PM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from 57strummers on October 1, 2013, 20:24
robin, if you are really interested in the look and want some help I am in Sydney and would be more than happy to assist you to achieve what you are after, if you want help let me know and we can correspond via email or something.... You have a need someone should be able to help you....

Thanks for the offer Chris, much appreciated.

No plans for a relic/aged guitar at present, but I know someone who is planning on doing one in the future, if they need some advice I can point them to this Thread.

Thanks again mate,
rob

57strummers
03-10-2013, 12:13 PM
Electronic 4 way switch upgrade complete and ready to test in a day or so when the body is finished.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/mv909-IMG_1319.JPG

57strummers
03-10-2013, 11:13 PM
Relicing on the body begins!, looking ok I think. Got some dirt onto the surface to dirty up the exposed wood and perhaps some areas of the sanded paint. Will wipe off later and see if my act of brilliance is in fact brilliant... lol

I am hoping it will give the white paint a bit of a dirty look as well.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/cn757-IMG_1323.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/56vk9-IMG_1324.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/01d56-IMG_1325.JPG

57strummers
05-10-2013, 12:34 AM
Body coming along now
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/vi96n-IMG_1327.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/7um30-IMG_1332.JPG

57strummers
05-10-2013, 12:44 AM
Loose fit of the hardware to check things out.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/438c7-IMG_1326.JPG

AJ
05-10-2013, 01:15 AM
looking good there Chris

stan
05-10-2013, 04:00 AM
great job, very cool

wokkaboy
05-10-2013, 04:46 AM
yer good effort Chris, I could picture Keith Richards strumming an axe like this !

57strummers
05-10-2013, 08:03 AM
Yes looking forward to final assembly and sound check!!

GlennGP
05-10-2013, 09:23 PM
Some unusual techniques going on here - keep it up!

57strummers
06-10-2013, 10:56 AM
Yes willing to try anything.... almost ready to install all hardware, the neck and start testing for sound

57strummers
09-10-2013, 10:37 AM
Waiting for my new hot wired pickups to arrive, putting the other lot in first to compare between each set.

Fretworn
10-10-2013, 01:13 AM
Are you going to relic the pickups as well? I have a almost 30 year old Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder stacked humbucker in the bridge of my Tele. It's been relic'd the hard way by almost 3 decades of picking hand sweat and I think it looks different to any quick relic'd pickups I've ever seen. If your interested I post a picture.

57strummers
10-10-2013, 02:42 AM
Well I was thinking about it Fret but don't want to screw up the pickups so first I will put them in new and then perhaps decide later, if they look out of place. Pretty easy to do it later I guess when I do a string change.

My vintage pickups have arrived!!!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/wpbq0-IMG_1364.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/19oj3-IMG_1365.JPG

AJ
10-10-2013, 03:26 AM
nice :)

wokkaboy
10-10-2013, 03:36 AM
AJ, does DB give you internet access from the naughty corner ? its getting a bit crowded here I'm currently doing a stint too !

AJ
10-10-2013, 06:33 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on October 9, 2013, 12:36
AJ, does DB give you internet access from the naughty corner ? its getting a bit crowded here I'm currently doing a stint too !

I snuck in a tablet pc to use skype..lol

wokkaboy
10-10-2013, 06:56 AM
well done AJ, make sure DB doesn't see it or he may confiscate it. The naughty corner isn't supposed to be fun, its supposed to be punishment ! haha

Fretworn
10-10-2013, 08:44 AM
This is how the bridge pickup has aged on my Tele. It's not totally clear but there are salt stains from the sweat across the top. This has also led to some rusting of the pole pieces. You can also see how the bridge and control plate have aged. The neck pickup has pick scratches across the surface but is in otherwise good nick.

In Will Kelly's book he ages the Tele neck pickup by removing the chrome cover and using the tissue and PCB etchant method but leaves the bridge pickup alone. My guitar shows that it probably would be the other way around in real life but I'd be wary of getting anything that will start to eat through the chrome near the hair-thin wires in a pickup.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/0dg33-DSCF2599.JPG

Gavin1393
11-10-2013, 02:39 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on October 9, 2013, 15:56
well done AJ, make sure DB doesn't see it or he may confiscate it. The naughty corner isn't supposed to be fun, its supposed to be punishment ! haha

Not so loud you two, I think I can hear him coming this way....

57strummers
12-10-2013, 04:23 AM
Looks great!!! Yes I am wary that is why I haven't try to age the upgraded 63 Vintage pickups (7.8k) Will let those age gracefully!!

57strummers
12-10-2013, 04:25 AM
Frustrating couple of days... 4 way switch upgrade wasn't working. I have posted my experience in the MODs section for all to reference. Here is what I experienced and how I fixed it

Hi all I have upgraded my 3 way switch on TL-1 to a 4 way switch to increase the available tones on this axe. The upgrade adds to the normal Bridge, Bridge/Neck Parallel, Neck to a further option of Bridge/Neck Series. This mod will give you a louder and darker tone and leaves intact the normal configuration so you have nothing to lose other than the $15.00 odd for the switch, whilst I was on the job I upgraded the pots to CTS solid shaft 250k so that I could put on a knob that was closer to the fender original. Also added in a .047uf capacitor capacitor and a 120pf capacitor on the Volume pot to compensate for the natural lloss of high frequencies through the guitar cord when the volume control is partially rolled back (Vol kit).

Anyways when testing the wiring out I found that the switch was not functioning as expected in that the neck pickup was remaining active. The purpose of this post is to alert those who want to do this mod of the problem I encountered as there seems a distinct lack of info around talking about this issue. The distance the 3 way switch travels from left to right is about 3mm less than that of the 4 way switch so when mounted the four way switch was not fully engaging into the far left and far right positions (Neck and Bridge), the only way to fix it with the control plate in the kit is to widen the channel the switch runs in, very simple to achieve with a hacksaw, took about 1.5mm each side and up it goes... 100% working.

gavinturner
13-10-2013, 04:47 AM
Thanks for the great info. That's great problem solving right there - and a workaround we all can use! Will be sure to add this mod to my own TL-1.

Cheers,
Gavin.

57strummers
15-10-2013, 09:53 AM
Think you will like the mod Gavin, you can get the switches from a company in Maroochydore, QLD if you want to cruise the site it is http://www.realparts.com.au/ free shipping over $99.00 I think and overnight for $9.95 easy to order and quick to get.

57strummers
19-10-2013, 10:44 AM
Bummer, my vintage style tuners didn't arrive this week. Another delay... hoping for next week

gavinturner
19-10-2013, 08:52 PM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from 57strummers on October 14, 2013, 18:53
Think you will like the mod Gavin, you can get the switches from a company in Maroochydore, QLD if you want to cruise the site it is http://www.realparts.com.au/ free shipping over $99.00 I think and overnight for $9.95 easy to order and quick to get.

Thanks for the link. Chris. I have used these guys before and have been very satisfied with turnaround and customer service.

Cheers,
Gavin

57strummers
22-10-2013, 03:24 AM
Got my new shiney vintage style tuning pegs today... Into the acid fume bath for a couple of hours to age them around 30 years... lol

57strummers
22-10-2013, 10:22 AM
Very happy with the look


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/i1nag-IMG_1385.JPG

57strummers
25-10-2013, 11:00 AM
Tuners are on
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/9nr8l-IMG_1396.JPG

stan
26-10-2013, 11:12 AM
this is looking sooooo good!

Another way to age stainless is to rub with steel wool, soak in a salt water mix for aday or so, until the desired rusting.
Then put into a tin with nails, old srews, nuts etc, and shake the crap out of it - check every few minutes until the desired patina is acheived. I have some friends who do fake vintage watch cases this way, they look awesome

57strummers
28-10-2013, 11:00 AM
All assembled and worked on action/intonation today with the kit strings before I put on the Elixir's .010-.052
Plays pretty well, one prob is I am finding the Polyurethane that I used (British Paints) seems to be sticky which obviously slows down the sliding of the hand over the neck. Have anyone experienced this before and if you have what was the fix for it....I am finding the stickiness on the back of the neck not the front so much, I think from memory the Poly has been on about a week and I have not rubbed it down with steel wool or scouring pads. I have a suggestion to try and polish with car polish but before I do that keen on hearing any other ideas.

Gavin1393
28-10-2013, 03:56 PM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from 57strummers on October 27, 2013, 20:00
All assembled and worked on action/intonation today with the kit strings before I put on the Elixir's .010-.052
Plays pretty well, one prob is I am finding the Polyurethane that I used (British Paints) seems to be sticky which obviously slows down the sliding of the hand over the neck. Have anyone experienced this before and if you have what was the fix for it....I am finding the stickiness on the back of the neck not the front so much, I think from memory the Poly has been on about a week and I have not rubbed it down with steel wool or scouring pads. I have a suggestion to try and polish with car polish but before I do that keen on hearing any other ideas.

...which is why we recommend Wudtone!

Different paint is made up of different solvents, resins, etc. as a result they will have different drying times and once cured, different 'speeds' will be evident. Using the WRONG paint on the neck with effect playability and especially speed. You can try wet sanding with 1200 grit after steel wool application, but not too sure if this will make a heap of difference?

gavinturner
28-10-2013, 08:25 PM
Poly is fickle. I would wait a little while longer for it to cure. Depending on the thickness of the coats it can take a good long while. It will never be slick on the neck until you matt it up with steel wool and sand paper (the finest you have), but it should be ok with a little TLC.

Cheers,
Gavin.

57strummers
28-10-2013, 11:01 PM
Ok thanks guys, will leave it till mid week and then give it a nice easy sanding with some 2000 wet. I didn't put a lot of coats on it and if need be I will sand it back but happy to try and work with it at this stage....

57strummers
07-11-2013, 12:02 PM
Gigged my guitar tonight went like a treat, will get some pics up on the final product....including the upgrades