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Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 01:26 PM
As some of you may know before I tried my hand at electric guitars i built acoustic guitars. I thought I might chronicle an acoustic build here so that those of you who may have an interest can appreciate the differences in the process. Much of what I have learned and that I share on the forum comes from having built acoustics. They are far more precise and a lot less forgiving than electric are!

I am going to take you through my journey to build an acoustic guitar in 10 days. There are a collection of photographs from my course as well as other photographs that I will use to chronicle the journey. Hope you enjoy!

Ps - No painting in the 10 days! That takes extra time!

So here goes....

The first decisions with building an acoustic is what wood to use for the back and sides and most importantly for the top, the soundboard!
I'm using Bear Claw Sitka Spruce here and the build I show will feature two different woods as the diary will actually show pictures from two Dreadnaughts I am building. The one will have Honduran Rosewood Back and sides and the other is being built with Madagascan Rosewood. Anyone will tell you that it is the soundboard that determines the tone of the guitar, but there are some who say that while this is generally true, when it comes to Honduran Rosewood, this is the only exception!

The photo below shows the uncut sides in the drum sander being thicknessed down to 2mm.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/71s94-image.jpg

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 01:30 PM
Then off to the scroll saw and using a pretty fine blade, cut the sides to the tapered shape from the template I created using the guitar plans. templates make repetitive jobs so much easier!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/s15tl-image.jpg

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 01:40 PM
Now that the side have been cut into profile using the template they need to be bent into shape. This is an art. If the wood is too thick it will crack and ruin the body of the guitar. too thin and you run the risk of the wood splitting!!
I have not followed e directions regarding bending wood from the manufacturer of my bending machine preferring to use my own method which seems to work with less issues than the method I am supposed to use!

What is important is that the wood needs moisture and heat to bend. I lay my wood on top of a piece of timfoil with the wood wrapped in a very damp but thin cloth. The tin foil is then wrapped around both the wood and the wet cloth. This is then placed between a heater blanket and two flexible steel sheets and heated to 320 degrees Fahrenheit! Once at temperature, the bending process starts. It takes about 15 minutes to bend each side. It simply cannot be rushed or dosaster will happen!
When the wood is bent you drop the temperature of the blanket down to 260 and leave the wood in the machine for another half hour to set.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/76a57-image.jpg

WeirdBits
10-06-2013, 01:42 PM
Great job Gav, this is going to be really interesting.

So... when can we expect the Pit Bull acoustic kits to become available?

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 01:45 PM
The soundboard is typically built using two book matched sides to creat the whole soundboard. In order to join the two sides together requires you to plave the two halves so that they are dead straight and when held up to a light source, no light is visible at the join.
I use a number 7 plane for this task!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/6286o-image.jpg

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 01:46 PM
Quote from WeirdBits on June 9, 2013, 22:42
Great job Gav, this is going to be really interesting.

So... when can we expect the Pit Bull acoustic kits to become available?





I'm not sure Scott, they tend to be a bit pricey compared to electrics....

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 01:48 PM
The same proceedure is then followed with the back pieces. using the plane to get the joining sides perfectly straight. This is also the best time to think about adding a strip to the centreline .
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/mjw0s-image.jpg

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 01:51 PM
With the back strip in place we need to thickness the back to around 2.4mm. Using the thicknesses has it advantages as I can drum sand the backs level with the strip.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/47ab8-image.jpg

keloooe
10-06-2013, 08:36 PM
Will it have a pickup Gav??? I love the tapred shape of Dreadnoughts, my Epi DR-220S has all the characteristics of a true Dread', and it is just awesome!!!

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 10:13 PM
Of course it will have a pickup!

What I omitted to show you was how I glue the two halves of the soundboard and the two halves of the back together.there are several methods to doing this. The one I learned from the guys at ALS involves placing the two halves in a jig and wrapping rope around the jig to apply pressure to the glue joint. I hated this idea and so cam up with my own device which is shown below. Essentially it is a flat jig with two slats that do the work of the string. To make sure it doesnt pop up I weigh the centre piece down with dumbells! Wax wrap is used under and on top of the glue join to ensure glue does not adhere to the jig!

In the second picture you will see a triangular piece of wood which is used to raise the two half pieces temporarily. The two slats are then tightened and when the triangular piece is removed this creates the gluing pressure! I always slightly wet the section that I am gluing as this tends to ensure a good joint.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/s68zk-image.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/5797d-image.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/l702t-image.jpg

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 10:49 PM
Pictured below the spray machine!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/k97og-image.jpg

keloooe
10-06-2013, 10:49 PM
Do me a favour and install the Fishman Ellipse Matrix Blend haha!!!

Gavin1393
10-06-2013, 10:59 PM
There is a Fishman going in but not telling you which one just yet!

keloooe
10-06-2013, 11:02 PM
YAY!!!!!! I'm a massive Fishman fan.... Gav, I'm stealing that acoustic now!!!!

Gavin1393
11-06-2013, 12:34 AM
Quote from keloooe on June 10, 2013, 08:02
YAY!!!!!! I'm a massive Fishman fan.... Gav, I'm stealing that acoustic now!!!!
In that case I'm putting an LR Baggs into this one.

keloooe
11-06-2013, 12:37 AM
Awwwwwwwww...... Damn it!!!
Ya better install the frets in a fashion that nobody can remove them Gav, or else DB will remove them for you!

Gavin1393
11-06-2013, 12:52 AM
The next phase in the process is to take the sound board and cut the channels for the Mother of Pearl(MOP) Rosette inlay. This is best accomplished with another 'jig'. That's one thing about acoustic guitar building is that you have a lot of jigs to build before you can build your first guitar! I will be introducing you to a number of other 'jigs' as the guitar develops.

A drill is used to drill an exact hole in the centre of where the sound hole will eventually go. This hole is then used as the centre for the dremel and the circle cutter.
Bearing in mind that the soundboard is 3mm thick and that the MOP is 1,3mm thick I need to position the 3/32 router drill bit so that the channel is 1.3mm deep. If you forget to check your depth you might end up with a very large soundhole!

Once the channels have been completed, you can now cut the soundhole. I set the depth to 2mm and then turn the soundboard over and cut again. It gives a better result.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/9n15s-Photo8.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/7av17-Photo9.jpg

dvous
11-06-2013, 01:13 AM
Gavin, as an acoustic player, I'm fascinated about the process you are portraying. I know that I could never achieve what you are doing because my woodworking skills are truly rudimentary, so I'll get a vicarious pleasure out of seeing this guitar come together. Hence I cant wait till your next post and pix.

I have a friend who is building semi-acoustic hollow body electrics. He has gone to the extent of building a CNC machine to deal with repetitous tasks, and to save time, so he can concentrate on the tweaking stuff that can only be done by hand. Do you use any CNC or automated processes in your workshop?

Gavin1393
11-06-2013, 02:11 AM
I do use templates, thicknesses and the like, but no CNC at this stage. I would use a CNC for the rosette or for shaping the neck, but that takes away from the craft.

I have very little woodworking skills (according to my high school teacher). And in fact when I raised this point at the time of booking my 2 week trip to Mount Tamborine to build my first guitar, I was told that woodworking skills were an advantage but not a pre-requisite. I can confirm that this is true!

I'm looking forward to taking you and other forum members on this journey of discovery. For me, it is a spiritual and uplifting experience and those two weeks changed my life and introduced me to the Art of Lutherie!

Picture of the Motley Crew from the course!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/jkh7e-IMG_0878.JPG

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 06:03 AM
Next trick is to insert the Mother of Pearl into the Rosette. Glue it up liberally with Titebond so that it covers all the possible gaps!.
This rosette shown here also has some purfling bent into a circle to really make the white MOP stand out!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/h307q-021.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/5ou21-020.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/c66j1-025.JPG

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 06:11 AM
Once Glued up, lay the soundboard flat between two pieces of Wax-paper and position a ring such as that shown here over the mother of pearl to ensure the MOP glues in position.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/z173u-Ring.gif


...and leave overnight to dry.

wokkaboy
14-06-2013, 06:16 AM
looks good Gav and you must need alot of patience to build an acoustic. Look forward to seeing some of the equipment and finished guitars at the south Geraldton man cave !

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 06:18 AM
Now I will look at the headstock logo.

Cutting the Abalone inlay for the headstock

Wear an appropriate mask as breathing abalone is not good for your lungs. Use template as shown and cut as close to the “V” as possible to avoid breaking the shell. Glue the template to the shell with superglue.
When fitting the blade, make sure that the teeth of the blade face down as the cutting must take place on the down stroke.
When inserting the blade into the saw, to ensure the blade is taught by squeezing the saw and tightening the final screw on the saw.
Most important: wax the blade before cutting as this will help with cutting the curves of the inlay design.
Ensure that the blade and the cutting is undertaken perpendicular to the abalone to avoid angled edges.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/1b9mx-IMG_0422.JPG

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 06:23 AM
Create a “V” template to use for cutting abalone. Idea is to glue a fine sheet of sandpaper (120) to the template, this will also assist with the grip.

Once the cutting of the abalone has been completed, use the 120 sandpaper and needle files to ‘finish’ as far as 90% of the inlay before removing the ‘paper’ design by sandpapering it off. With the paper removed re-file or sandpaper rough edges to be 100% complete and ready to place into the headstock.

It is possible to ‘paint’ the abalone with liquid paper and to draw the design on the shell.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/76a55-IMG_0425.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/4mzz4-IMG_0426.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/ohr10-IMG_0439.JPG

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 06:36 AM
Almost Completed Inlay with Inlay design still super glued in place

The Inlay is then copied onto the ‘African Ebony’ Headstock piece.


Draw a centre line on the African Ebony to assist with positioning the Abalone insert. Paint the African Ebony with Liquid Paper and then trace the shape of the Inlay onto the liquid paper once dry. The insert for the inlay can now be carved using a Dremel router.
Completed Inlay traced onto headstock

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/72hec-Logoinwood.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/kpy84-IMG_0488.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/35965-IMG_0442.JPG

keloooe
14-06-2013, 06:45 AM
I love that design Gav, it's really cool!!! My logo will have to be PCG in a similar fashion!

wokkaboy
14-06-2013, 06:54 AM
whats PCG stand for Pest = Pestocaster Guitars ?

keloooe
14-06-2013, 06:57 AM
Nope, Pest's Custom Guitars

wokkaboy
14-06-2013, 07:02 AM
hahah that will have a good ring to it - pardon the pun. Sorry Gav, Pest and I will stop hijacking your thread !

keloooe
14-06-2013, 07:06 AM
Haha, yer, sorry Gav, I might add a pic of my logo design to my build diary, I want to use a waterproof marker on the LP until I get some good decal paper!

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 07:27 AM
While we are gluing the MOP to the Soundboard, and DB is lecturing Pest and Wokka about Hi-jacking my thread....

I'm going to talk about 'thicknessing' the sides as well as the back and the soundboard of the guitar.

It is best to have a flat piece of board to work off. Such as MDR or a thick laminate. I use a 1.8m laminate which at one end houses my Binding Jig and at the other provides a nice flat surface to work on.

Use calliper to trim Dreadnaught to 2.5 -2.6mm in the centre, edges to be trimmed down to 2.4. adjust by .1mm if back plate is too stiff. Triple-0: is thinner...about 2.4mm down to 2.2 if still a bit on the stiff side.
We used an orbital sander, the idea is to sand for 3-5 minutes, check the depth, write it down on the back plate in pencil and then focus sanding where it is needed most.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/631r2-IMG_0428.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/09wsf-IMG_0434.JPG

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 07:29 AM
Here is the calliper recommended for measuring progress to the right thickness. The most important aspect ids the flexibility of the board. You don't want it too stiff!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/f19a1-IMG_0428.JPG

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 07:30 AM
Be careful not to sand over the edges to where the sander is no longer even with the surface as this will ‘oversand’ the edges of the backboard.
Only sand the ‘inside face’ of the back board. Do not sand the back face. Use 40 sand paper.

Side Template and sanding of the sides of the guitar.
Key point is purely to smarten up the sides of the guitar for aesthetic appeal. Do not try and make the sides thinner than they already are. Take care not to sand too close to the edges especially if these are slightly cupped as they may crack. This ‘cupping’ isn’t an issue as this will correct when the body is put together.
Use 80 and 120 sand paper to smooth the sides.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/mbw6g-IMG_0429.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/t4d4a-IMG_0430.JPG

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 07:41 AM
================================================== ==================
END OF DAY ONE
================================================== ==================


================================================== ==================
START OF DAY TWO
================================================== ==================

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 08:00 AM
Use of humidifier and de-humidifier

Humidity sensor, available from Tandy’s for around $40. Best to get two as these are often not that accurate. Best humidity range is between 40% to 50%. If too dry, add mist to room, if too high use humidifier (pictured below) to reduce moisture content otherwise guitar woods can warp. Problem comes in when guitar is shipped to another area where humidity is very different as woods can crack or warp due to change in structure of wood due to humidity changes.

You can use a small room with humidifier, if you need to work outside of the small room you can remove the wood work for a bit (30 mins) but you need return wood to humidity room. If leaving wood overnight in a humidity room stack wood as shown in the Go Bar Deck below. Don’t leave wood flat as it needs to breathe on both sides.

Go Bar Deck
This construction is used in place of clamps. Go Bar sticks replace clamps in this apparatus since clamps simply cannot go where the Fibreglass Sticks can. Use small strips of wood to protect softer wood from dents.
The Go Bar Deck is used almost exclusively to clamp the braces on the soundboard and the back of the guitar.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/x4m27-IMG_0457.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/iz7wx-IMG_0458.JPG

dingobass
14-06-2013, 11:36 AM
You seem to have a head of curly blonde hair in those pics Gav..... :)

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 11:41 AM
Not me, Sean from ALS!

keloooe
14-06-2013, 09:53 PM
I thought it was the elderley version of me :D :P

Gavin1393
14-06-2013, 10:32 PM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from keloooe on June 14, 2013, 06:53
I thought it was the elderley version of me :D :P

Elderly'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!

I think Sean would have been about 27 in those pictures! How "elderley' do I now feel at 50! :) :) :)

keloooe
14-06-2013, 11:12 PM
Nah Gav, you feel ancient now!

Gavin1393
15-06-2013, 01:41 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from keloooe on June 14, 2013, 08:12
Nah Gav, you feel ancient now!

Quit while you're ahead Pest! :P

keloooe
15-06-2013, 04:08 AM
But you have to teach me how to build an acoustic first :P

MetalMatt
18-06-2013, 02:49 PM
Amazing set of skills you have there Gav - as I mentioned in DB's Baritone thread it must be truly satisfying to be able to create such masterpieces with your bare hands from scratch. It's all a bit over my head at the moment but I love reading/watching the progress. Awesome stuff.

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 03:20 AM
Thanks MetalMatt!

Day two of the build and we are getting ready to make some braces and put these on the back and soundboard of the guitar. The go-bar deck is going to be critical in this phase as we need to use the fibreglass rods to clamp the braces down onto the body.
What-is-more, these braces will be radiused and we will use a radiused dish with 40 grit sandpaper to achieve this and we will actually position the back and soundboard in the dish inside the go-bar deck to glue.
Also of critical importance is that the humidity needs to be at around 40-50% to ensure optimal gluing results are achieved.

You can see the radius in the dish below.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/rn76y-IMG_0459.JPG

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 03:26 AM
I use a 15 foot radius for back plate bracing and I use a 28 foot radius for the front soundboard. These can be obtained like so much other stuff (the 40 grit circular sandpaper) from StewMac.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/9uy1x-IMG_0462.JPG

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 03:36 AM
I need to measure up the back to glue the braces into place. A strip runs along the centre line where the two back halves were joined. These are glued first. It is esier to measure up and get these pieces aligned if you use a ruler aligned to the centre markings.

When sanding to round off the centre braces, layers of tape alongside the braces will be useful for protecting the wood.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/9ho62-IMG_0466.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/on24a-IMG_0467.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/3d66x-IMG_0469.JPG

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 03:39 AM
Tape in place once the glue has dried!

Bottom picture also shows the profile of the central back brace.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/fe4u7-IMG_0473.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/9937d-IMG_0475.JPG

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 03:46 AM
Glue the intermediate bracing pieces first. Once the glue has dried then shape the braces using either a thumb plane or sandpaper to produce a rounded curve. Allow these intermediate pieces to overhang the marked positions of the braces. This is to allow a tighter fit when the main braces are glued. Cut these extended pieces with a blade or chisel. When the main braces are glued you will need to use a 15ft radius template.

A softer piece of wood strip is positioned between the brace and the fibreglass rod to prevent the rod from denting or damaging the braces.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/k61c0-Photo12.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/ao9l9-Photo13.jpg

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 03:52 AM
Once removed from the Go-bar deck, you will be looking for this type of result! :)
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/0p5qe-IMG_0478.JPG

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 04:10 AM
When it comes to gluing the sides of the guitar together, use will need a head block and a Tail block. The tail block is always something that can be decorated to add to the overall look of the guitar. It is also useful in hiding mistakes if you haven't quite bent the sides symmetrically!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/x1660-Tailblock.jpg

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 04:15 AM
Now to glue the sides together at the tail block. Its an easy job if you know how!

The main thing is to have a perfectly parallel strip in the centre of the tail block if you are reproducing the type of tail block I am using here. Glue liberally, and initially clamp lightly. force the sides until they align with the centre strip on both sides and then allow to dry for two hours or so. Four clamps is a must. You want this glue to stay stuck for a very long time! Two cauls placed at both ends where the clamps would otherwise damage the wood are a must. I also use wax wrap under the area where I am gluing to prevent glue spilling where it isn't wanted!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/s1mng-Photo7.jpg

wokkaboy
20-06-2013, 04:22 AM
Amazing build diary Gav, I had no idea so much work, preparation (x3), and equipment is required. When were these photos taken and this acoustic built, was it recent ?

You must have more shares in Stewmac than DB does and thats a big call !

Gavin1393
20-06-2013, 10:18 AM
Hi Woks!
It is a bit of a mish-mash! I am combining pictures taken of two scratch builds that I am doing at the moment, you will see them when we catch up at the Lair, with my first ever build. I went nuts with the camera recording everything I could when on the guitar course. However, I also want to use these two builds to highlight the process as well.
Hence there are photographs that are absolutely current and there are photographs from two years ago.
I am more likely to have more toys, sorry guitar building tools, than DB only because acoustics require a lot more processes than are required with an electric! The good thing though is all the acoustic tools work with the electrics! :)

Gavin1393
29-12-2013, 09:32 PM
Another of my forum projects that got derailed due to competing issues. I will get this Acoustic thread back on track if there's interest in it!

Bass Guy
29-12-2013, 09:41 PM
You've certainly been busy! Hope you got a break over the festive season. :D

wokkaboy
30-12-2013, 01:04 AM
sure Gav please continue this thread, sure there is heaps of interest on the acoustic build side !

stan
30-12-2013, 01:07 AM
you bet there is interest Gav, post away!

maxaxe
30-12-2013, 08:59 AM
Just fantastic to see how you are going about creating an acoustic.
I tips me lid to you matey.
I have more than enough challenges building solids and will stick to the lesser of two evils.
As has already been said, it takes serious luthiery & other skills, serious tools & machinery & lots of patience to do what you do.

Keen to see more installments . . .

robin
30-12-2013, 06:54 PM
Are you kidding Gav? Of course we're interested.

Although it is a project that very few, if any, of us would attempt, it's great to see the process, and marvel at the true art of a Luthier.

Keep 'em coming mate.

rob

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 12:39 AM
Ok, motivation levels are high. I'll get on this!

Brendan
31-12-2013, 01:47 AM
Plus Gav - we can't get enough of the katalox :).

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 02:35 PM
We now need to attach the Kerfing to the sides of the guitar. The Kerfing is those tiny little blocks you see when you look inside the body of the guitar. If you have a Cole-Clarke you wont find these!

Once the Glue has dried, the Kerfing needs to be shaped. The Kerfing is shaped using a flat spokeshave or plane at a 15 degree angle sloping down towards the outside of the guitar. The shaping should go level with the sides of the guitar. Finish by sanding the shaved area using 120 -180 sandpaper, to maintain the correct radius angle place fingers or a small block of similar depth under the side opposite where the sanding is taking place as shown. Or, you could use a radiussed dish which gives a far better result although it is a bit more work!
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/6sv1r-IMG_0506.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/1t4p5-IMG_0490.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/a62oi-IMG_0509.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 02:40 PM
Preparing to attach the back to the guitar sides.

We need to chisel out (or use a dremel- as I do) a cavity for the braces to sit in. This ensures a tight lasting fit and gives strength to the body of the guitar. The braces will also need to be trimmed to size during this process.

A specially prepared Pencil is slipped into the gap caused by the protruding braces.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/2d2ds-IMG_0550.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 02:44 PM
Mark the kerfing with the pencil, and also mark the braces where these will be cut and duplicate this mark 3mm in.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/2xnfr-IMG_0525.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 02:50 PM
With the guitar sides in the mold, position the back of the guitar onto the sides. Using a shaped pencil with plenty of ‘lead’ exposed, mark the position of the bracing that protrudes from the guitar and mark the Kerfing which will need to be cut out to accept the braces for added strength. Remove the back and view the marks on the bracing and allow an extra 2-3 mm depth before cutting off the protruding pieces of the braces. View the Kerfing and add a small insert to the Kerfing where the cuts will weaken the remaining Kerfing when the back is in place. Once this has been glued with quick drying superglue, make the cuts at an angle so as not to cut the rosewood sides of the guitar, then remove the material between the cuts with a chisel to depth using a piece of the brace which you have removed earlier for a tight supporting fit. A similar process will be done when attaching the soundboard.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/sc5i7-IMG_0527.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/n2gm4-IMG_0535.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/44fj1-IMG_0529.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 02:57 PM
Checking to see where small inserts made from the Kerfing will add support, and gluing these into the Kerfing gaps with quick drying super glue.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/q0775-IMG_0533.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 02:59 PM
Checking depth of the chiseled cut to receive the braces using the actual offcuts from the braces. So smart!

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/a83z2-IMG_0536.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:04 PM
You may have to cut off a section of the center back brace to accommodate the Block.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/g9817-IMG_0551.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:08 PM
Once complete with all the cutting and chiseling, check to make sure that the back and sides are level, make adjustments if necessary. Use a torch light and shine the light from the inside of the guitar body to assist with the process. If light is visible from the outside, you have gaps.

When no gaps are discernable, you can proceed to gluing the back to the sides.
Use Titebond and allow to dry for 90 mins to to hours until glue is clear. Guitar body should still be in the mold at this point and should be clamped down using the adjusted clamps made specifically for this purpose as shown here.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/yi94f-Bsas1.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:13 PM
When I built my first guitar with the Hancock's they encouraged us to glue up and then use these....but they are awful imho!

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/9x059-IMG_0554.JPG

Probably should include a picture of the glue up process. So here it is.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/2j3v1-IMG_0555.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:18 PM
To get the glue up process to deliver great results, the following must be noted:

Begin inserting two clamps at the two block ends and a clamp each at the waist of the guitar and then at regular intervals along the mold. This ensures that the glue will dry evenly . Make sure the clamps are close to perfect length before starting to glue. The finished product, when viewed from underneath the guitar should look like the following.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/mthl5-IMG_0564.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:19 PM
Tuning / sanding the soundboard.

Flex the soundboard to get a feel for how it will vibrate. Is the soundboard flexible or stiff. When flexed, does one side appear flexible and the other less so. These are important considerations to the way the guitar will sound. As the sound board is usually around 3mm thick when initially prepared, you now need to tune the guitar according to its flexibility. It is usual to leave the area above the Sound hole which will be later covered by the fingerboard at 3mm. However, the area along the left and right hand sides of the upper and lower bout of around 4-6cm should aim for 2.5 to 2.6mm depending on the flex. If the guitar is stiff, aim for 2.5mm.
The end block area should target around 2.7mm, but 2.6mm may be more appropriate for a stiffer piece of wood.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/893lw-IMG_0557.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:22 PM
Once ‘tuned / Sanded”, it is time to put on the braces for the soundboard. This is not done in one stage but in two to three stages on the Go-Bar deck.
First step is to position all the braces according to the template. The braces may need to be shaped. A mortise and tenon joint needs to be cut out for the ‘X’ brace. Recommended not to use preshaped ‘X’ brace where the cut is to be completed at the point where the wood has been preshaped as this not only looks unattractive and untidy but also doesn't provide the right amount of strength. Braces are usually made from Adirondack or Sitka Spruce Split Billets.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/3t2p0-IMG_0565.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:24 PM
Perhaps an important point to note is that depending on whether the guitar is for a left handed person or a right handed person, the two braces as shown below may need to be re-positioned. The template depicts a right hand guitar, the braces would have to be positioned opposite for a left handed person as these braces affect the bass and treble sound of the guitar.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/0n72i-IMG_0566.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:27 PM
The bridge plate should cut slightly oversize so that it can be feathered and yet still slip under the ‘X’ braces for added strength to ensure it stays where it has been glued..
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/ykg1u-IMG_0574.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:30 PM
When marking the bridge plate, a shortcut to the marking is to place the piece of wood as shown below (right up flush against the left brace and over the right brace) and mark. This ensures you have enough wood to work with and that you get your angles right.


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/ku41n-IMG_0575.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:34 PM
‘X’ Bracing

Shape the ‘x’ bracing to receive the bridge plate, an angle of approximately 45 degrees on the bridge and a matching but opposite 45 degree angle on the brace so that the ‘x’ brace sits flush on top of the bridge plate.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/in2rf-IMG_0578.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:37 PM
It is very important to prepare a mortise joint such as that shown below. This gives proper strength.


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/e3i9p-IMG_0580.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/501i5-IMG_0579.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:41 PM
With the braces all shaped and ready in position on the soundboard, it is now time to go to the Go-bars. Glue the bridge plate, glue the thin sound hole strips and the brace in the upper bout position as shown below. Allow to dry for at least 2hrs in the humiidty room. Always glue only when humidity is 40%-50% otherwise your guitar will crack.


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/lwwb6-IMG_0585.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:43 PM
Then insert the ‘X’ brace as shown. Glue the overlapping sections of the first stage to the ‘x’; brace.


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/loz50-IMG_0587.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:48 PM
Finally, complete the remaining bracing as shown below and allow to dry for 90 - 120 minutes.

Note that each brace is chiseled into the 'X' brace for added strength.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/bsxju-sred4.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:54 PM
While the braces dry, we turn our attention to the fretboard.

Working on the fret board with 180 grade sandpaper, don’t forget to use the correct radius block and double sided tape on the sandpaper. Long smooth strokes are best.

Using the Dremel drill, rout out the inlays for the finger board after marking these with liquid paper. Use a thin 2mm chisel for the sharp corners that the dremel cant reach.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/iv5t2-IMG_0582.JPG
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/0qnxt-IMG_0589.JPG

Gavin1393
31-12-2013, 03:57 PM
With the fret board cleaned up with the sandpaper, you should now draw a centre line down the middle and position where you intend to place the inlays at the 5th, 7th, 9th, 12th and 15th frets as shown above. The inlays should be glue with 5 minute epoxy and then clamped. Superglue will work too.


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/kx1lt-IMG_0584.JPG

Use the appropriate radiused fretboard sanding block to sand the fretboard into shape.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/9mb14-IMG_0653.JPG

stan
01-01-2014, 03:44 AM
nice to see how its done Gav

Gavin1393
16-10-2015, 04:38 PM
Think I need to fire up this thread again since 10 days has definitely elapsed.

wokkaboy
16-10-2015, 04:39 PM
haha nice one Gav your last post was last day of 2013 !

kenfu
17-10-2015, 03:14 AM
This is very very cool!!

BenWA
17-10-2015, 08:28 AM
damn this is tech, a lot more tricky than electrics for sure.

Gavin1393
26-10-2015, 10:15 PM
Fitting the Fretboard

This is a 12 fret to the soundboard neck, meaning that there are 12 frets on the neck itself and the remaining frets are actually resting on the soundboard.

The correct positioning of the fretboard is to ensure that the 12th fret aligns exactly with the edge of the neck as pointed out below.

Gavin1393
26-10-2015, 10:19 PM
At the other end of the fretboard you will find the nut. Now we position the nut and draw two lines on the neck (at the headstock) to mark the position of the nut. Because we will want the nut to sit flush on the neck, and because there is 'that' angle where the headstock falls away from the neck, we have to adjust the nut and the headstock veneer so that the nut will fit flush against the fret board (because we angle the base of the nut. But we also need the headstock veneer to fit flush against the nut when in position. Cut, file or plane the headstock veneer to this angle. Now place the headstock veneer into position and clamp as shown below.

Gavin1393
26-10-2015, 10:29 PM
Here I have the headstock veneer pressed up against the headstock with my fingers. Essentially we want to wedge the nut in place between the fret board and the veneer.

Gavin1393
26-10-2015, 10:33 PM
We are going to start putting the neck together now:
Clamping the veneer to the headstock, in total there will be 10 clamps required. Wait for the titebond to become a little bit tacky so that it doesn’t slip and slide as the clamps are put into place.

Gavin1393
26-10-2015, 10:37 PM
Finishing the initial stages of the back of the guitar body. Using a router I remove the excess wood from the back of the body of the guitar using a straight router bit with a bearing for this purpose. Working with the grain not against it or there will be chip-out which will damage the guitar.

Gavin1393
26-10-2015, 10:40 PM
Place the body of the guitar back into the mould to receive the sound board, since the guitars may not go all the way into the mould, prop up the back /bottom of the guitar with angled ply wood so that the guitar sits evenly through out the mould.

Gavin1393
26-10-2015, 10:41 PM
Use a set square if necessary to assist with the levelling process.

wokkaboy
26-10-2015, 10:45 PM
Nice one Gav I'll have a good read of this tomoz. Don't Look away too long Gav or your avatar may change. Think I borrowed the pink tool kit from your man Cave so you didn't even have to use Google images haha