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tcjbrown
04-06-2013, 08:02 AM
The excitement is building.
The kit has arrived in flawless condition, no glue spots or problems. Thanks to uni holidays I'll get started on it tomorrow. That flamed maple will look stunning in carmine gypsy.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/1n75z-image.jpg

Bass Guy
04-06-2013, 08:12 AM
Wow- that is a one gorgeous top there! Can't wait to see the progress!

Just make sure you don't knock over your bottle of Carmine Gypsy. Trust me, it looks like a crime scene if you do... :P

tcjbrown
04-06-2013, 08:20 AM
Yeah, that would be bad! I've just acquired a man cave with carpet, which would not look good red! :)

tcjbrown
04-06-2013, 08:44 AM
Also, when I get to sanding tomorrow can someone give me an idea of how much sanding is appropriate? I've never worked with a cap before and want to make sure I won't go through it.

dingobass
04-06-2013, 08:54 AM
With the Maple top, start with the 220 grit and go easy along the edges!
when you have got it looking nice and smooth, go in with 240 grit and sand it until it is really smooth.
Next, polish the binding with steel wool, this will make it easier to remove the Wudtone after each coat has dried.

But, before all this, do a mock up build and drill all your holes. This may save you some swearing when you do the final build! :)

adam
04-06-2013, 08:55 AM
I second that Wow! That is a really nice flame finish. I remember when Phil W and I opened the first one of these kits, we almost wept.

Oh, you shouldn't have asked how much sanding is required. Stand by for some posts you won't want to read...

tcjbrown
04-06-2013, 09:00 AM
Thanks guys, this kit looks like it will be amazing. I was already planning on drilling the hardware first as it's the part of the build I like the least. Already done a mock fit and everything's correctly drilled. I was especially worried about about the strung through tailpiece but the holes were dead on.

Bass Guy
04-06-2013, 09:08 AM
On a sanding topic ( DB'S favourite topic, I know) how do you sand a serious flametop? Along its grain, or against it to rough up those flames?

dingobass
04-06-2013, 09:10 AM
Always sand with the grain.

Gavin1393
04-06-2013, 09:32 AM
The top of the FV is level, so although the caps that are used are thin you should be safe with the cap on the FV. It's the curved tops like the 335, LP, etc. that will cause problems as there is barely any cap at all on the edges!

tcjbrown
05-06-2013, 12:30 AM
And this why we don't talk and drill
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/0f1h3-image.jpg

Brendan
05-06-2013, 12:36 AM
Oooppss. Have done it at other times - though thankfully not with my guitar... Good news is where it is - I think you'll be the only one who knows it's there - you and the person you were talking to...

dingobass
05-06-2013, 12:38 AM
Bwahahahahahaha! Welcome to the club!
That is a mistake you will only ever make the one time!
Good news is it is in a spot where you should be able to hide the repair so no one but you (and the forum members) will ever know is there.

The tooth pick should work fine as a plug, just round off the fat end so it is a snug fit then tap it in.
I wouldn’t worry about gluing it in as the Wudtone will seal it up nicely.

keloooe
05-06-2013, 12:39 AM
haha, i did that with the strap buttons on my LP, I drilled them at 4mm not 3.5mm... Also DB gave me the wrong bit at the start, so I'm blaming him as well :P
I hope he doesnt give me a pink, fretless Hofner Bass now....

tcjbrown
05-06-2013, 12:40 AM
Yeah, I felt extremely silly after that, I can assure you i'll be a lot more careful now!

dingobass
05-06-2013, 12:44 AM
Pest, your next kit is going to arrive in a putrid hot lipstick pink for that remark :)

keloooe
05-06-2013, 12:48 AM
Oh crap!!!! I better keep this Dark Onyx with me so i can make it red :P :D
Also DB don't worry, I'm going to make a plug for it soon and re-drill the hole

wokkaboy
05-06-2013, 01:19 AM
Tristan the washers on the tuners need to be reversed.
Yes the toothpick should hide the hole once covered with wudtone, I've done that trick once too and won't do it again !

Fretworn
05-06-2013, 01:56 AM
OK, I think I'll be using a hand drill.

tcjbrown
05-06-2013, 02:18 AM
Ok, all drilled with very few problems, will have to remember to put the washers the right way up. :) I've got a decent camera I'll use soon, but I'm waiting for the batteries to charge. :(
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/joo25-image.jpg

Analyst69
05-06-2013, 09:25 AM
I will also admit to having done that too, on my first guitar kit...I left the hole on mine (with a red headstock face)...for me, it's a reminder to be more careful in future :)

tcjbrown
06-06-2013, 08:54 AM
The wudtone arrived today, so tomorrow will involve sanding, sanding and you guessed it, more sanding.
ordered some more carmine gypsy for a strat refin that I'll start after the fv-1's finished.

tcjbrown
06-06-2013, 11:27 PM
Unfortunately a tuner screw managed to break as I was removing it.
I did an shoddy job of extracting it and there was a nice uneven hole in the back of my
headstock. Luckily timber putty came to my rescue, as I found a colour in my garage that will blend well with the carmine gypsy. This build has already been a great learning experience for me :)

Gavin1393
07-06-2013, 12:57 AM
Quote from tcjbrown on June 6, 2013, 08:27
Unfortunately a tuner screw managed to break as I was removing it.
I did an shoddy job of extracting it and there was a nice uneven hole in the back of my
headstock. Luckily timber putty came to my rescue, as I found a colour in my garage that will blend well with the carmine gypsy. This build has already been a great learning experience for me :)

Hate it when that happens......

Here is a link to the process I use to avoid or fix the problem.

http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=42&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=370#postid-5765

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 04:00 AM
For the wudtone experts out there, when the deep colour coat's all good, applied yesterday (pics soon) would I be able to use masking tape on it when I steel wool the bindings? I don't want to take any of the wudtone off of the body accidentally and masking would make the job a lot easier. and less scary :)

Gavin1393
08-06-2013, 04:06 AM
You really want to do the bindings up to a smooth polished state before painting....then if you get paint on the bindings it will come off with a light steel wool application!

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 04:11 AM
First coat's done and I polished it (binding) up as per instructions. I just wanted to check to see whether or not masking off the body while cleaning off the binding was advisable.
Thanks.

Gavin1393
08-06-2013, 04:27 AM
If you are careful, it will not be an issue at all. Be measured in your approach and keep the steel wool only on the bindings and you should be fine. I think it will take you more time to mask off the body in between coats!
I have not masked ANY of my guitars....by doing so you also run the risk of pulling pain off the body. But if you must mask up the body...make sure when you remove the tape that you pull the tape along itself...in other words as if you were folding it in half from end to end. Do this slowly as it reduces the risk of tear-out.

wokkaboy
08-06-2013, 04:32 AM
Tristan I used painters tape on my 1st wudtone build LP-1S and it was very time consuming applying it, in the end I did 2 coats of back sides, then 2 coats of the top between re-taping. I never got any tear out so if you must do this method be careful as Gav said and make sure the wudtone has plenty of cure time before applying the tape.
In hindsight it was a pain in the bum taping and I'd just steel wool the binding between coats anyday !

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 04:36 AM
Thanks Gavin and Wokka, I'll just steel wool the binding. Since I ordered the extra carmine gypsy and vintage yellow, I think I can justify a tl-1 or baritone if there's one when the v's finished :)

wokkaboy
08-06-2013, 04:47 AM
sounds good Tristan,
any photos of the 1st coat ?
Have you done the front of the headstock in carmine ?
the forum love photos in build diaries !

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 04:53 AM
Yup, will take photos tomorrow, and the whole thing is carmine gypsy, neck as well as body.
I like V's and other Gibson styles to have the same neck colour as on the body.

wokkaboy
08-06-2013, 05:00 AM
cool Tristan, sure it looks sweet. So you bought vintage yellow neck and haven't used it ?
the necks do look orsome in vintage yellow as well, trust me !
If you go back to early build diaries check out my FV-1 in azure lagoon
http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=42&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=138

Hey Pest I just clocked up 300 posts and Gav is beating you at the moment - 913 versus Gav's 920 !

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 05:03 AM
Yup man, the vintage yellow and another order of carmine gypsy are either for a strat refin or another kit. preferably another kit of the telecaster variety. Luckily my 18th is coming up so there may be a tl1 in my future. :)

wokkaboy
08-06-2013, 05:07 AM
ur joking Tristan, we got another youngen in the forum, when do you turn 18 ?

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 05:08 AM
Late July, the day before I go back to uni I'm afraid.

wokkaboy
08-06-2013, 05:44 AM
bad timing Tristan but 7 weeks uni break - most workers can only dream of a break like that long.
wait till you get a full time job thats about 2 years annual leave !

what course are you studying ?

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 05:47 AM
Secondary Education - Music Teacher, it's a good course though a lot of the theory is dry and the music subjects have bee simple so far.

wokkaboy
08-06-2013, 05:51 AM
ok good choice should be a fun career and teachers get about 51 weeks annual leave a year ! haha just kidding, but heaps more than 4 weeks annual leave.
Got to start with the basics I spose. Would you be lucky enough to teach guitar as a teacher ?

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 05:55 AM
I don't think I'd be qualified to teach guitar for some time I'm afraid!
I'm a late convert to the guitar, I've been playing trumpet for ten years and only recently (Year and a half ago) switched to the greatest of instruments.

keloooe
08-06-2013, 07:12 AM
Yeah, the vintage yellow is bloody amazing!!! Sort through my build diary and you will see!!!

wokkaboy
08-06-2013, 07:18 AM
Hey Pest you better pull ur finger out Gav is 7 posts higher than you, wonder who will make the grand first ?

Good move Tristan moving trumpet to axe !

Brendan
08-06-2013, 12:41 PM
Tristan - you never know - with a teaching, music and soon to be lutherie background, you could corner the market in Aus running lutherie courses! I know that there are a couple around, but that's it - a couple... Good luck with the build.

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 11:30 PM
hey there, just up to removing the stain from the binding and while it's coming off of the top easily, there are parts on the sides where I obviously didn't polish it adequately and the stain doesn't want to come off.
Any advice? I'd just sand it with very fine sand paper, but I'm afraid that I'd remove finish accidentally/

Gavin1393
08-06-2013, 11:39 PM
Quote from tcjbrown on June 8, 2013, 08:30
hey there, just up to removing the stain from the binding and while it's coming off of the top easily, there are parts on the sides where I obviously didn't polish it adequately and the stain doesn't want to come off.
Any advice? I'd just sand it with very fine sand paper, but I'm afraid that I'd remove finish accidentally/

Cut strips of sandpaper 320 grit the same width as the binding, then using your thumb and fingers position the sand paper(adhesive works best) so that the thumb and sandpaper is perfectly aligned with the binding. Sand gently along the length of the binding, cleaning the residue from the sandpaper regularly. Your fingers should support your thumb and basically lock your thumb in position by positioning your fingers on the soundboard/top/face of the guitar. If you do this carefully you wont remove the paint from the body, only from the bindings. To finish, polish with OOOO steel wool.

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 11:41 PM
Thanks very much Gavin, I'll give it a go.

tcjbrown
08-06-2013, 11:51 PM
Thanks, that's working exceptionally well.

Brendan
09-06-2013, 12:36 AM
Gav's a champion!

tcjbrown
09-06-2013, 12:43 AM
Indeed! While this is going to take a while, it's producing great results.

Gavin1393
09-06-2013, 05:03 AM
I'm a bloody bridesmaid! :) think I have come second three times this year in the GOTM! Haha but I'll take the compliments....
I have spent many hours doing the binding trick above simply because I didnt know of any better way of doing the binding. DB was keeping this secret at that time!:

Preparing the Binding BEFORE applying WUDTONE
If your guitar has binding you will spend ages removing paint from a 'keyed' binding surface if you do not prepare the binding before painting.
I learned this trick from my good mate and fellow author on this thread DB, here is his trick for keeping the binding clean..
After sanding, grab some 400 wet and dry and VERY carefully give the bindings a polish.
Then break out the 600 and repeat.(If you don't have 600 grit, you can polish the binding with steel wool) Then let the Wudtoneing begin!
When you have let each coat dry, a light and VERY careful rub with the steel wool will remove any Wudtone and add to the polish on the binding.
Do this after each coat and by the time you are at the top coat stage, you wont have to worry as the binding will be as smooth and shiny as a *censored, censored*..... you get the idea!

tcjbrown
09-06-2013, 06:10 AM
Yup, I used four hundred to remove the stain and then steel wooled it and that worked quite well. Thanks Gavin for the help, I've noticed that removing the stain from the neck binding was far more difficult than the body and I suspect that it will cause me problems after the base coat is ready. (pics soon I promise :) )

tcjbrown
09-06-2013, 08:20 AM
First base coat applied, it's starting to look pretty good.
Starting to see why people here swear by wudtone, as it's been far easier than my attempts at lacquer finishing, and is looking better.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/eac93-image-2.jpeg

tcjbrown
09-06-2013, 08:21 AM
Btw, those neck holes are the same as on the neck mounting holes on the body, they were drilled in a strange place on the body. I'm considering re-drilling it.

dingobass
09-06-2013, 08:37 AM
They are a tad wonky... But I wouldn't worry about it as there is bugger all string tension and there is no way that the screws will give out on you.

Plugging those holes requires a bit more than a roughly shaped dowel, you need a proper plug cutter to be sure of a stronger than the parent timber fix.

dingobass
09-06-2013, 08:39 AM
Having said that, the above is true as long as the neck mounting plate doesn’t over hang the edges of the neck/ body.
If it does, then we have a work around to sort you out :)

tcjbrown
09-06-2013, 08:42 AM
The mounting plate is fine, I didn't even realize that they were off until I had removed the neck. It doesn't really worry me and doesn't seem to structurally be an issue as you said.

tcjbrown
15-06-2013, 05:51 AM
Unfortunately I haven't been able to add any more coats the last three 'cause I kind of lost my steel wool. I found it under the television in my parent's bedroom (not gonna question that) and I have now applied the 3rd and second last base coat. Pics to follow this evening.

dingobass
15-06-2013, 09:10 AM
MMMMkay... best leave the question of why the steel wool was found there well alone :)

tcjbrown
16-06-2013, 07:08 AM
Just ordered my guitar shop starter kit and 12' radius sanding block from stew-mac.
If you can guess what why I stole a bone off my dogs today you'll win an amazing prize!
(not really)

Gavin1393
16-06-2013, 07:13 AM
Bone nut!!!!

tcjbrown
16-06-2013, 07:16 AM
I suppose that was too easy! But yeah, I thought doing it from scratch would be a fun and challenging experience. I'll boil it tomorrow and give it a week to dry/degrease.

dingobass
16-06-2013, 08:34 AM
DONT BOIL IT!!!!!!!!!
You are best to leave it to "cure" naturally. Boiling cooks the bone and weakens it.
Try and find an old bone that has been sitting around in the sun for a year.
I place my dogs old bones on an ants nest to clean them and then hang them in the chainlink fence for a year to be bleached by the sun, looks strange but it gives the best results.

tcjbrown
16-06-2013, 08:52 AM
Okeydoke. That shouldn't be too hard. Nobody wants a weak bone!

WeirdBits
16-06-2013, 09:13 AM
Quote from dingobass on June 15, 2013, 17:34
[...] hang them in the chainlink fence [...]

... keeps away visitors too!

dingobass
16-06-2013, 09:15 AM
Also drives the dogs insane :)

tcjbrown
16-06-2013, 09:26 AM
Well we have four dogs and already have enough insanity :)
Thanks for the nut blank DB, I'm a patient guy and i'll let that bone do it's thing.
It'll certainly be a better idea than boiling it and maybe my patience will give it better tone :)

tcjbrown
17-06-2013, 03:30 AM
Hey people, I've noticed that the smallest nut file in the stewmac nut making kit I ordered is a 0.012' and I want to use a set of ten - forty-sixes. Will that cause a problem? I'm making up another order for a couple of crowning files anyway, so if that is an issue I can get another correctly sized file.

keloooe
17-06-2013, 03:38 AM
It will be fine, it's actually better if you use a file that is a few thousandths larger than the string width just in case you decide to try a different string gauge!

tcjbrown
17-06-2013, 03:40 AM
Thanks mate, just wanted to make sure. Just realized I didn't need to order a crowning file as the fretting kit already has one. Derp.

Brendan
17-06-2013, 04:52 AM
There were alternates that AJ was looking into that had a different range of sizes - Japanese files from memory.

WeirdBits
17-06-2013, 05:37 AM
The StewMac nut kit contains a 0.010" Gauged Saw (http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/item/3596) which will allow you to accurately start your string slots and will pretty much be all you need for your 0.09-0.010" strings.

Gavin1393
17-06-2013, 06:25 AM
Scott is correct, i have an .010" which I use for my Pit Bull Strings which are .009" from memory. You actually DON'T wan't to go a few thousands of an inch too big otherwise your string could rattle in the nut slot. If you want to change your string size to a thinner gauge then ideally all you do is redo the nut!

tcjbrown
17-06-2013, 07:18 AM
I'll see if I can make do with the supplied files, if I have to I'll organize some more gauged files from Stewmac. It strikes me as a little weird that they don't supply files for common gauge strings like 16 or 46.

tcjbrown
21-06-2013, 10:53 AM
Some new toys... er, tools arrived today.
I'm going to butcher... er, setup a guitar tomorrow as a practice run, probably one of my less played guitars like my epiphone les paul junior, or a 70's japanese SG copy I have lying around. I've decided to leave the pics of the V till the finished product, partially because I'm already up to the second top coat, partially because of laziness and because of the knowledge that there's a tl-1 on it's way. (extremely distracting :) )
The next order is already sorted (Bottom Pic), with many important toys tools that I desperately want need.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/68m0b-image-4.jpeg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/8gx58-Untitled.png

dingobass
21-06-2013, 10:58 AM
Great start!
Check out the Katana fret level tools at www.rectifymaster.com

Great tools at a great price!

tcjbrown
21-06-2013, 11:06 AM
Just had a look at that db, does it require you to have the neck straight before the level?
the diagrams seem to suggest that the neck need not be straight for it to be leveled.

WeirdBits
21-06-2013, 11:23 AM
It's designed to allow you to set the neck to the relief you want under string tension, and then an adjuster on the Katana allows it to be matched to the neck's curve. Basically, small brass wedges sit on the fretboard so that you can match the Katana with the curve, then you remove the wedges and level the frets to match the curve. And, it appears to have the DB stamp of approval.

Gavin1393
21-06-2013, 10:16 PM
It has my stamp of approval as well! Mainly because DB won't stop raving about it so I felt obliged to add it to my toys....and because I can't stand it when DB has better toys than me! ;)

dingobass
22-06-2013, 11:26 PM
The Katana has to be the best new toy on the market!
The better the fret set up is at the beginning, the easier it is to get a fast result.

On Pit Bull necks, I press all of the frets before I begin working on the Guitar.
This ensures that they are all evenly seated, takes a lot of work out of the equation later.

For those of us without a fret press, you can firmly tap the frets in with a hard plastic faced hammer.
Remember to support the neck though, other wise the whole thing will just bounce back at you or worse, you may crack the neck :(

robin
22-06-2013, 11:34 PM
DB, at a pinch, would a small Dolly Hammer against a small piece of wood be suitable?

rob

Gavin1393
23-06-2013, 03:16 AM
...only if you don't mind the hammer bouncing off the frets and whacking you in the face...a proper fret hammer absorbs the shock and prevents this!
Oh! And when you get your new fret hammer it is a good thing to sand off any sharp edges! You don't want sharp edges imprinted on your frets.

dingobass
23-06-2013, 03:29 AM
An easy neck support can be made from a cut off leg from an old pair of jeans, some sand and two zip ties.
Zip tie one end, fill with sand and zip tie the the end.

This will conform to the shape of the neck and act as a shock absorber.

tcjbrown
25-06-2013, 08:04 AM
Hey there, my tl-1 arrived today and is mostly perfect.
I noticed the neck fit isn't quite perfect and just wanted to check what your opinions are
on how to deal with it.
The pickguard doesn't hide the gaps unfortunately.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/26onj-image-5.jpeg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/mx4nt-image-6.jpeg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/y9rdy-image-7.jpeg

dingobass
25-06-2013, 09:03 AM
Too easy :)

Grab your trusty file and simply round the heel of the neck a touch.
Do it a little at a time and you should get rid of most of that gap.

tcjbrown
25-06-2013, 09:05 AM
Thanks DB, that's what I was planning on doing, just wanted to check before making any adjustments to the neck, as once you've taken away wood, it's a bit hard to put back :)

tcjbrown
25-06-2013, 09:54 AM
One more question, am I able to use the yellow wudtone neck finish on the fretboard?

Gavin1393
25-06-2013, 11:30 AM
You can use any of the appropriate finishes but i'm not sure why you'd want to paint the fretboard? Best to use an oil like Dr ducks AXE wax or similar on a fretboard....

tcjbrown
25-06-2013, 08:05 PM
Just to clarify, we're talking about a maple board.
You'll often see a tinted lacquer on all of a maple boarded teles neck, including the fretboard.

tcjbrown
25-06-2013, 11:15 PM
Quick update, I've managed to largely get rid of the gap at the end of the heel by rounding the neck heel ever so slightly. But, the neck fit is still is very loose, and the gaps on the side of the neck remain, the pocket is too large for the neck. I just checked the fit on my flying v, which is so tight you could almost lift the thing by the neck without bolting it on.

tcjbrown
03-07-2013, 08:26 AM
Argh! My stupidity seems to know no bounds. The top coats are done and I was going to begin wiring tomorrow, but I hadn't wudtoned enough of the neck heel. Thus another base coat was applied to that part of the neck and I'll have to wait for that before I can continue. It's a very, very small area on the base of the neck, should I bother with applying more top coats or am I ok to continue? Only positive today is the pb-4 I just got on ebay, I'm thinking azure lagoon.

tcjbrown
17-07-2013, 03:45 AM
Hi again, I've finished shielding the guard and cavities and I've noticed I can't find the tailpiece or jackplate. Is there any way that I could organize replacements?

keloooe
17-07-2013, 03:58 AM
Just hit Adam or DB (dingobass@pitbullguitars.com) an email and they will sort you out!

tcjbrown
23-07-2013, 09:31 PM
Hey there, I'm up to wiring now and can't find a diagram anywhere for a two conductor flying v.
If anyone knows of one I'd appreciate their help.

Gavin1393
24-07-2013, 01:23 AM
You can use the Gibson les Paul wiring schematics....

tcjbrown
24-07-2013, 01:26 AM
Hey Gav, the Les Paul schematics are actually different only slightly, master tone vs individual tone.
It's wired up successfully using a modified diagram from seymour duncan. I just used the little bit of guitar wiring knowledge I have to convert it to two conductor.
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_1t_3w

tcjbrown
24-07-2013, 02:16 AM
Body's almost done, only have to finish polishing the binding and then it's on to fretting the neck and making a new nut
(Thanks for the blanks DB). The wiring worked fine, just had to adapt the above Seymour Duncan diagram, which involved ignoring
the two wires from each pickup that were meant to be connected. It turns out that I'm very good at ignoring diagrams, as I managed to wife the
tone back to front :)

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/h0881-image.jpg

phloggy
24-07-2013, 02:58 AM
That's a nice looking guitar right there. The flame has come up a treat.

keloooe
24-07-2013, 03:21 AM
Wow Tristan, that FV-1 is great!

tcjbrown
24-07-2013, 03:30 AM
Thanks, it's been a fun process making it, and the support I've received so far has been excellent, especially when I've done something stupid to the guitar. I'll be sad to see it finished, but there's a tl-1 and pb-4 in my work room that need my attention.

keloooe
24-07-2013, 03:44 AM
Yes Tristan, I feel the same way about my LP, so far this journey has been the best experience of my life, I've had so much help from you guys here on the forums throughout my journey, I've had all of you involved, helping me, giving me advice, and answering the random questions I had :P :D . This will be a sad but very happy time for me when It's done, sad because I don't have much to do for a while to keep me occupied, but very happy because I achieved something that people my age don't normally have the chance to do!

So to all of you who have been here for my epic adventure, I thank you all so much, even before I started I got help from Adam and the other guys who have been there since January this year! I WILL be staying here at Pit Bull Guitars, and the pestiness won't end for a long time, next project is a pup winder!!!

MetalMatt
24-07-2013, 07:41 AM
That looks awesome! Man those Flying V kits are damn good value with al that hardware and that top! Definitely be making myself one in the future..

tcjbrown
24-07-2013, 07:52 AM
Yeah, the kit was great quality and on mine I only found one small glue spot.
The wudtone has brought the grain really nicely and given it a depth that is really
cool in person. Only thing upgraded on mine was the jack, as I accidentally put a switchcraft
one on that I was going to use on a speaker cabinet.

gavinturner
24-07-2013, 08:18 AM
Hi Tristan,

Man, your finish looks awesome!
Did you need to do anything special with the Wudtone application to pop the grain like that? Is it a specific base coat / colour coat combination?
Would love to use your Wudtone choice on my next project.
Fantastic job!

Cheers,
Gavin.

tcjbrown
24-07-2013, 08:27 AM
The Colour's Carmine Gypsy.
It's brilliant for bringing out the grain and the application's no different to any other wudtone colours
apart from the added coat (or two) of deep colour before the base coats.

tcjbrown
25-07-2013, 04:07 AM
Neck bolted on and binding clean.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/2xny6-image.jpg

wokkaboy
25-07-2013, 04:14 AM
looking good Tristan, looks pretty similar to Gav's FV (his was carmine as well) but he made a few mods and leaving the truss rod cover cost him GOTM couple of months ago !

tcjbrown
25-07-2013, 04:31 AM
Arrggh, my Ipad keeps rotating pictures. I'm not leaving the truss rod cover. Actually
bought a custom one from the states, which I'm putting on tomorrow. But I
broke my 1/16 drill bit, so I'll have to grab a new one when I head to bunnings for a
belt sander tomorrow

wokkaboy
25-07-2013, 04:39 AM
Tristan, you better not use the hardware store name starting with 'B' around Dingobass ! He's not a fan !

tcjbrown
25-07-2013, 04:51 AM
I know, but don't worry, all of my router bits, sandpaper, glue, etc come from stewmac :)
I'm afraid at times a trip to bunnings is a necessary evil, especially when you need to quickly
sand a rough cut headstock to a useful shape!

Gavin1393
25-07-2013, 01:48 PM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on July 24, 2013, 13:14
looking good Tristan, looks pretty similar to Gav's FV (his was carmine as well) but he made a few mods and leaving the truss rod cover cost him GOTM couple of months ago !

did you have to remind me!!!! ;)