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GlennGP
23-04-2013, 09:46 AM
This topic is to document the build of a TL-1A kit, being built for a friend. We're tricking this one out with a few quality upgrades, because there's every chance Tania might want to take this on stage with her band, and it's got to stand up to that treatment. Since we're on a budget, upgrades are mostly to enhance the sound and longevity rather than aesthetics, though it will (hopefully!) still look the goods.

Finish will be Wudtone Carmine Gypsy, as saturated as I can get it to go - no highlights, extra gloss top coat. Neck is Wudtone Vintage Yellow. We're going for a white-black-white 3-ply pickguard. Other upgrades:
- Switchcraft jack plug
- CRL 3-way switch
- full copper shielding
- bone nut
- Wilkinson compensated Tele bridge
- Wilde Bill's Deluxe Keystone T-set pickups (I love the sound of these, and they are unbeatable at the price)

I know there's nothing technically wrong with the parts that come with the kits but I really want to make sure this plays well and reliably, and for that I think an investment in some quality parts is justified.

There's scope for further upgrades in future (e.g. pots, cap, tuners), but I'm trying not to make it too complex - after all, this is only the second guitar I've ever built!

All kits and parts have been ordered, so it's time to sit back and wait for happy parcels!

Oh, and since I started a theme with the "Yellow Peril", this one naturally has to be the "Red Menace".

Gavin1393
23-04-2013, 11:06 AM
Tania is a lucky girl! Looking forward to seeing this one develop Glenn!

stui
23-04-2013, 11:44 AM
If you're upgrading the pups I'd be inclined to upgrade the pots and caps. It does make a difference and its a reasonably small outlay. Well worth the extra few dollars imo.

keloooe
23-04-2013, 08:51 PM
To echo wot Gavin said, Tania is one very lucky girl!!!
To add on to Stui's comment, maybe you could try making some Paper in Oil Caps??? Looks at my thread in the wiring sub-forum and you will find the link to the instructions!

GlennGP
23-04-2013, 10:02 PM
Thanks guys - for the price, you've convinced me it's worth taking the the pots and caps route now rather than later. Ordered - from StewMac, of course!

Sorry Callum, I'm not going to risk reliability by trying to make oil in paper caps for the first time, and I'm already time-poor for this project, so not this time. You'll have to live vicariously through someone else!

At this rate I'm going to be close to having a complete set of spare electronics and most of the hardware for an electric guitar. Whatever will I do with it?

EDIT: stoopid interface replaces my link with this thread, regardless of what I put in there. The original link was to an electric cigar box guitar thingy.

Gavin1393
23-04-2013, 11:14 PM
Quote from GlennGP on April 23, 2013, 07:02

At this rate I'm going to be close to having a complete set of spare electronics and most of the hardware for an electric guitar. Whatever will I do with it? (http://www.carlscustomguitars.com/product.sc?productId=6)

Buy a chunk of wood?

keloooe
24-04-2013, 05:26 AM
Then the next logical step would be attempt a scratch build, although I'm most definitely wrong!

wokkaboy
24-04-2013, 07:27 AM
Quote from keloooe on April 23, 2013, 14:26
Then the next logical step would be attempt a scratch build, although I'm most definitely wrong!
Yes Good idea build a scratch build #3 project Glenn. You learn so much more than building a kit. Sounds like all you need is a neck. Didn't take us long to make a tele template. U just need a router and pattern following bit. This is a pine scratch Wayne cut in an afternoon on left next to tl-1b

wokkaboy
24-04-2013, 07:36 AM
Quote from wokkaboy on April 23, 2013, 16:27

Quote from keloooe on April 23, 2013, 14:26
Then the next logical step would be attempt a scratch build, although I'm most definitely wrong!
Yes Good idea build a scratch build #3 project Glenn. You learn so much more than building a kit. Sounds like all you need is a neck. Didn't take us long to make a tele template. U just need a router and pattern following bit. This is a pine scratch Wayne cut in an afternoon on left next to tl-1b
Glenn try again with photo
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/v3ej3-20130310_172405.jpg

GlennGP
01-05-2013, 09:53 AM
OK guys, we're on our way. I got two packages today: the kit from PitBull, and the pickguard and bridge from Guitar Fetish. I've done a quick test fit, and all seems in order. Checked the length, and that's good. The TL-1A kit differs from the TL-1 not just in the type of wood - there is a diagonally drilled hole from the bridge rout up to the surface, under the bridge, I assume for the ground wire, instead of coming up and over the edge of the rout. And the neck is different, in that the fretboard extends beyond the neck proper, to overlap the body (and the pickguard) by 5-10mm.

I'm pretty happy with this chunk of wood - no fill anywhere that I can see and some nice figure in the grain. On the back there are some deeper diagonal grain features near the top edge that'll pop right out with the Wudtone. Thanks Phil, for picking this one off the shelf for me!

Here are some pics I took tonight.

Overhead shot of the mock-build. The upgraded bridge and pickguard are pictured here, all else is stock.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/cm0u0-DSCN6519.JPG

GlennGP
01-05-2013, 09:54 AM
A close up of the body, to show some of the feature grain on the front.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/867ik-DSCN6520.JPG

GlennGP
01-05-2013, 09:55 AM
And here's the back of the body. You can see those deeper grain features near the top that I was talking about. They look like scratches here, but they're not.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/8m2fz-DSCN6522.JPG

WeirdBits
01-05-2013, 10:44 AM
Now, the first step in plugging your wormholes is... oh, never mind.

<----Jealous

Looks good, Glenn, that grain will really begin to show once you start sanding.

Brendan
01-05-2013, 11:05 AM
Glenn, the lego going to be part of the build? ;)

Looks like a nice piece of wood you've got there for Tania. Hope the build goes well...

GlennGP
01-05-2013, 11:16 AM
Quote from Brendan on April 30, 2013, 20:05
Glenn, the lego going to be part of the build? ;)

Looks like a nice piece of wood you've got there for Tania. Hope the build goes well...


No Lego in my build, but my youngest minion is pretty keen. Here's his blog: http://xanderlego.tumblr.com/

Looking forward to the build. I've learnt a lot since the Yellow Peril, hopefully I can apply it here.

adam
01-05-2013, 12:57 PM
Hey Glenn, I'm happy to see thee pictures, because you'll remember what dramas we had with the first lot of TL-1A's. It actually looks like they listened to us. I'll be interested to hear if anyone gets a kit with some dings that haven't been filled, which is what we asked for.

GlennGP
01-05-2013, 08:03 PM
No worries Adam. :)

pablopepper
01-05-2013, 10:46 PM
Love those wilkinson bridges, BUT check you can get the proper intonation measurement. As I found out with the Davocaster, there are two different styles of telecaster bridge; vintage and modern. The difference is the spacing between the pickup hole and where the saddles sit. The Wilkinson ashtray style is vintage, while the TL-1, at least, is modern.

With the Davocaster, I couldn't get the wilkinson bridge to sit far enough back to get the right intonation and the hole for the pickup and the rout to match. Try laying the wilkinson on top of the kit bridge, line up the pickup slot and see if the back of the plates match. I got around this by using the brass saddles on the standard bridge plate.

GlennGP
01-05-2013, 11:33 PM
Thanks Pablo, sage advice from experience!

I dropped the bridge pickup into the rout and positioned the bridge by lining up the holes in the bridge for fixing the pickup over the screws in the pickup. Then I measured from 12th to saddle, and I got a result within 1mm of the length from nut to 12th, so I'm happy that it's OK.

That said, in the process I noticed that the bridge pickup rout is pretty tight - when I get the Bill Lawrence pickups I'll have to check whether it needs widening.

WeirdBits
02-05-2013, 01:31 AM
Quote from GlennGP on May 1, 2013, 08:33
[...] I noticed that the bridge pickup rout is pretty tight [...]

I had the same thing on my TL-1A, the stock bridge pup would fit (just) but neither of my aftermarket pickups would squeeze into the rout. I ended up having to shave a bit out of the rout before I could get the other pups to fit and sit nicely when mounted in the bridge. A word of warning though... there is very little material between the edge of the rout and the sides of the bridge, so be very careful how much you take away otherwise you'll see the sides of the rout peeking out from under the mounted bridge. One option is to make the sides of the rout slightly concave to accommodate the pickup without actually enlarging the 'mouth' of the rout. In the end I had to remove far less material than I thought to get the pup to fit (discovered after the fact).

So, my advice is to mark where you want the bridge, then mark where the pickup needs to sit, then measure exactly how much (if any) needs to be shaved from the rout, check again, then start by removing a fraction of that and testing the fit. Advice I wish I'd followed ;)

GlennGP
02-05-2013, 01:55 AM
Thanks mate, that process is pretty much what I had in mind as a contingency, so it's nice to have the approach endorsed.

wokkaboy
02-05-2013, 01:58 AM
Quote from WeirdBits on May 1, 2013, 10:31




So, my advice is to mark where you want the bridge, then mark where the pickup needs to sit, then measure exactly how much (if any) needs to be shaved from the rout, check again, then start by removing a fraction of that and testing the fit. Advice I wish I'd followed ;)



Scott, sounds like sound advice, I have never built a TL kit but small amounts of removal sounds like the best way. Once the wood has been removed................. it's removed for good !

Glenn can't wait to see this axe progress, I reckon carmine gypsy is one of the best wudtone colours

cheers Wokka

GlennGP
08-05-2013, 11:56 AM
OK blokes, we're into sanding. The grain is coming up nicely and I've learned a thing or two about sanding a guitar body since I did the Yellow Peril. Got about 2 hours of good sanding in this evening, and I seem to have eliminated pretty much all scratches - just working at the cutaway now to remove the machining marks. Another evening and a bit should see me there. Then I just need to watch the post for that magic packet of Wudtone (which, I'm assured, is on it's way)!

All components bar the nut and pickups are now on hand, though Bill and Becky have confirmed despatch of the pups. All that remains is making the time to build this sucker.

stui
09-05-2013, 12:17 AM
Tania is one lucky girl. Those Wilde Bill pickups are stupidly good. This is going to be an amazing sounding axe :)

GlennGP
09-05-2013, 04:45 AM
I was also examining the CRL 3-way switch last night, and I have to say it confounded me.

I like to understand what I'm doing and how something works when I build it. I'm not satisfied just putting things together according to instructions. So I immediately noticed there's one more lug on the CRL switch than on the supplied one (8 vs 7), so I needed to know how to wire the thing to produce the required result. Now, there is a wiring diagram that comes with the CRL, and as long as you're holding the thing contacts down, it makes sense. Unfortunately one normally has the contacts facing you when you're working on these things, which means you have to think in mirror terms. Then I started looking closely at the contacts and what happens when you move the switch, and tried to relate that to the wiring diagram (in mirror-world) plus my understanding of what's supposed to happen as the switch is activated (neck at position one, both at position two, bridge at position three) ... and my mind just started dog-paddling and waving to the lifesaver on shore. I just couldn't fathom how the various combinations of contacts, with the wires connected as instructed, would produce the desired outcome. I think there are some connections hidden in the housing which might complete the picture for me. Anyway, I had to set the thing aside and just accept that if I wire it as instructed, it'll work. But I don't like not understanding it.

phloggy
09-05-2013, 05:32 AM
Have you got a picture Glen? I've just googled for an image and they seem to make sense to me, but I can only see one side of them so it's tough to know what's happening on the other side.

It *looks* as though some of the lugs are just there because the same arrangement goes on 5 position switches as well and it's cheaper the produce them like that than a special 3 position one so you can just ignore them.

But like I say, I'm basing that on pictures on the internet.

keloooe
09-05-2013, 05:39 AM
Glenn, the orientation of the switch shouldn't matter, as long as the wiring is done in the correct way, there's no actual orientation, you will have to test the pups to get the bridge position the right way!

phloggy
09-05-2013, 05:41 AM
Is it one like this:http://shop.rebelrelic.com/image/cache/data/ELECTRONICS/SW.CRL.3:5-640x640.jpg

Because that picture also doesn't help me. Stupid housing.

GlennGP
09-05-2013, 05:54 AM
Quote from phloggy on May 8, 2013, 14:41
Is it one like this:http://shop.rebelrelic.com/image/cache/data/ELECTRONICS/SW.CRL.3:5-640x640.jpg

Because that picture also doesn't help me. Stupid housing.

Yep, that's the one. I think you're right about the "extra" lugs. I'm ignoring them.

Calum, I know it doesn't make a difference which way it is wired up if you rotate it 180 degrees in the x-plane. My issue is that things get mirrored if you turn it 180 degrees in the z-plane. This is important when you're reading a wiring diagram which depicts the device from above as installed instead of from below, as one would normally be viewing it when wiring it up.

But, as I said, I'm not concerned that it won't work, it just frustrates me that I can't trace the signal route on the actual device to satisfy my tiny brain that the diagram does what I want.

Gavin1393
09-05-2013, 06:28 AM
OK, remember that the Fender-type and import-type are functionally identical, they only differ in the physical layout of the contacts – this means the schematic is the same for both switches.

In my schematics, I’ve labelled the switched contacts 1, 3 and 5 to correspond to what Strat users would know as positions 1, 3 and 5 (or Bridge, Middle and Neck). Position 2 is actually where the switch wiper rests on both 1 and 3. Likewise, position 4 is where the wiper rests on both 3 and 5.

The best way of working out which contact is which is to use a multimeter and see for yourself which contacts are connected to each other in the 5 switch positions. On the Fender-type and some import-type switches you’re given a good clue because you can actually see the mechanism or see through the switch casing. Watch this as you move the switch through the 5 positions – you can see which contact is always in circuit (the wiper) and which ones are in circuit in each position (1, 2, 3, 4 and 5). This method of visualising the switch also helps when it comes to fitting the switch to your pickguard and getting it the right way around! Now, where does the wire from the bridge pickup go again…

Hopefully this all makes sense now! I’ve drawn out a diagram below showing how the contacts relate between the schematic representation and the Fender- and import-type switches. I’ve shaded the two parts (poles) of the switch red and blue:
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/fwp6i-image.jpg

GlennGP
09-05-2013, 11:44 PM
Thanks Gavin, though I'm looking at a 3-way application here, not a 5-way. However, you've astutely identified the point that the acquisition of a multimeter appears to be neccessary in order for my insatiable curiosity to be assuaged.

Sorry, language got away from me there. You've reminded me that I need a multimeter to help me work this out.

Cheers!

Gavin1393
10-05-2013, 01:31 AM
Thank goodness you repeated that in English! I was battling with the accent! Ah yes, you did say three way! I had the same issue as you are having two weeks ago and hence researched my issue back then which was with a five way switch. Solved the problem with my wiring and then discovered the damned switch does not allow you to fit the plate over the cavity! It's 34mm but needed to be no more than 28mm! This is on the IB-1! So off to eBay and found an option that should work!

GlennGP
15-05-2013, 03:24 AM
I now have all parts on hand, and the bridge rout will definitely need a little widening to accommodate the pickup. I'll do as suggested earlier, i.e. do a full neck to bridge alignment, mark the outline of the bridge and use that as my limit (+1 or 2 mm).

In the meantime, it's sand, sand, sand. I had my Dad over the other night and showed him the body I'd been sanding. And he reaches out and gives the body a sharp couple of taps with a long-nailed finger for some reason or other. And as he does so I'm watching each tap leave a mark in the sanded body ... *sigh* I couldn't get mad, but I'd actually finished with that side ...

WeirdBits
15-05-2013, 07:06 AM
From now on it's mandatory fingernail inspections before anyone goes near the body, no exceptions! ;)

glenno3228
18-05-2013, 05:57 AM
Reading these posts whilst on holidays wasn't meant to make me wish I was home in the garage but it has somewhat distracted me. Look forward to seeing this when done.

Cheers
Glenn

GlennGP
28-05-2013, 10:52 AM
I've now had two goes at doing the full bridge-neck alignment. First go I thought I had it all right, to the point that I drilled for the bridge and attached it, only to find out I had it slightly out of alignment. I had precisely this problem on the Yellow Peril, and it didn't piss me off any less this time. So, out with the bamboo skewers and glue to fill those fricken holes, and then it's taken me a week and a half to find a night with the time to re-do the job, along with the inclination to face adversity and tell it to go take a leap.

So, I'm measuring and lining up and swearing quietly to myself as things continue not to work - specifically, the high E is consistently too close to the edge of the fret board. It occurred to me that I should re-check my centre-line. I'd been lining up a piece of string directly over the fret dots on the neck to line up with a mark on the body. So I measured whether the fret dots are, in fact, on the centre line of the neck. Nup. They're lined up with one another , all right, but not on centre. Oh. My. God.

So it's all marked out properly now and I can expand that bridge pup rout with some confidence, then finish sanding and THEN I'll be ready to put some Carmine Gypsy on this baby!

GlennGP
04-06-2013, 09:02 AM
All righty, work will have to be suspended for a bit on the Red Menace, mainly due to the fact that I'm going to have to pack up this house and move interstate because I just scored a whole new job. Tania knows and is in "no rush" mode, so all's well. I'll probably be able to spend some decent time on the guitar in about six weeks, which is still (I think) inside the shelf life of the Wudtone. In the meantime, this thing ain't goin' nowhere, while I use all my free time on all those little maintenance jobs around the house that make a place attractive to potential buyers ... :)

Brendan
04-06-2013, 09:11 AM
Congratulations on the new job - which way are you moving?

Good luck with selling the house...

Walrus
04-06-2013, 09:32 AM
Glenn, I'm curious about those Wilde Bill pickups. Any comments on the strat Keystones? I'm building an ST-1 but I am already planning upgrades.

GlennGP
04-06-2013, 11:29 AM
Quote from Brendan on June 3, 2013, 18:11
Congratulations on the new job - which way are you moving?

Good luck with selling the house...


Thanks Brendan - back to Canberra. We've sold a few times before (I think this is our sixth in 15 years) so pretty familiar with the drill.

As for the keystones, I'm afraid I haven't been able to try them out yet. But I was convinced enough by Bill's track record, testimonials and YouTube demos to think they'd be a good bet, and I daresay if you have a complaint Bill and Becky are honourable enough to deal plainly with you.

GlennGP
30-06-2013, 07:46 AM
Just checking in, so y'don't think I've lost interest. The house is sold, we're moving next weekend and I've had my last day at work here and the best part of three weeks stretch out ahead of me before I start a new job, in which I have to move our household 700 odd km. So, I'm packing packing packing, and I expect the Red Menace will resume construction in late July/early August.

Be nice to each other everyone - I'll start checking in again regularly when the unpacking duties slacken.

WeirdBits
30-06-2013, 09:39 AM
Good luck with the move Glenn.

Brendan
30-06-2013, 11:21 AM
All the best with the move Glenn - not fun for anyone...

keloooe
30-06-2013, 11:32 AM
Best of luck with the move Glenn! Hope to see you back here soon and ready to get Tania's Tele done!!

dingobass
30-06-2013, 12:12 PM
Best wishes with the move Glenn!
Good ole Canberra :) I spent 15 wonderful years there, a beautiful city.

GlennGP
09-09-2013, 05:50 AM
Resumed work on the Red Menace this afternoon. Completed the sanding and prep for colour, and applied the deep colour coat (Carmine Gypsy). Looking very, very nice!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/4z76r-DSCN6720.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/2vt57-DSCN6721.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/klwoc-DSCN6723.JPG

WeirdBits
09-09-2013, 09:00 AM
Welcome back, hope the move went well.

keloooe
09-09-2013, 09:18 AM
Welcome back Glenn!!! Good luck with the rest of the build!!!

stan
09-09-2013, 10:00 AM
great stuff Glenn, nice Tele

Brendan
09-09-2013, 10:27 AM
Welcome back. Good to see you with us again!

GlennGP
09-09-2013, 11:01 AM
Thanks guys, good to be building!

GlennGP
11-09-2013, 10:10 AM
While I'm waiting for coats of Wudtone to dry on the body, I'm getting on with work on the neck. The loud and obnoxious process of shaping the headstock is not one for a weeknight with the kiddie-winks in bed, so I've removed the plastic nut tonight, using the Dingobass-approved method: hacksaw down the length, squeeze with some blunt-ended pliers, and pull it out. Worked like a charm.

Below you can see the successfully removed plastic nut, and the Dingobass-supplied bone nut, awaiting installation. I might wait till I've shaped the headstock before putting in the bone nut.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/36xvs-DSCN6726.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/261wq-DSCN6727.JPG

dingobass
11-09-2013, 11:05 AM
Yay! Glenns back!

GlennGP
12-09-2013, 10:05 AM
Feeling an LP coming on, DB ... seems like a natural progression.

GlennGP
16-09-2013, 02:50 AM
All righty, it's headstock time. Even though I like the authentic shape of a Tele headstock, I still think they're a bit on the small side, so this time I went looking for the largest authentic template I could find. Strangely, it turned out to be pretty much identical to the one I used last time! Oh well, here we go - put the template down and trace around it ...

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/219zn-DSCN6728.JPG

Be sure to line up those holes with the template!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/xtm56-DSCN6729.JPG

GlennGP
16-09-2013, 02:52 AM
... then I take out my standard "this saw cuts wood" saw and do a rough cut around, followed by trimming up with a sanding head on a dremel.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/803w1-DSCN6730.JPG

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/a170p-DSCN6731.JPG

You can see I got as close as I cared on the bottom edge there and stopped - my thing about the size, you know? I figure it'll be fine. Now I can just neaten the whole lot up with some hand-sanding and we're there.

stan
16-09-2013, 06:14 AM
The beefier Tele headstock looks good.
If you are going to do a few kits invest in a cheap jigsaw, it will save a bunch of time

GlennGP
16-09-2013, 07:14 AM
Oh, I have a jigsaw, I used it on the Yellow Peril. Didn't spend much more time on this one than I did on that, with the added advantage this time that, when I got to the low side, I didn't put a big-arse groove in the transition up to the nut with the edge of the jig-saw foot-plate!

GlennGP
16-09-2013, 07:49 AM
Here's where we finished the day. There are still some little marks I need to sand out properly, but otherwise the headstock is done.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/09h42-DSCN6732.JPG

In this picture you can see how far I deviated from the template. I'm pretty happy with the result.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/2vk62-DSCN6733.JPG

adam
16-09-2013, 08:41 AM
Nice GGP, I like that shallow start to the headstock.

stan
16-09-2013, 09:34 AM
it finished up nicely, Glen

GlennGP
29-09-2013, 08:13 AM
I got up to six coats of the "Base Coat" Carmine Gypsy and wasn't happy with how red it was. I only put a single coat of "Deep Colour" on the body. So I've put another two coats of "Deep Colour" on top of the "Base Coats" and then another "Base Coat" on top of that. The wood didn't complain, and I'm much happier with the result. I've got enough "Base Coat" for one more coat of that before moving to high gloss top coats, which will make a full 10 coats of colour, and for the newbs playing at home, the more coats of Wudtone you whack on and let cure (for the required 2-3 days) the better the result will be. The Yellow Peril had the bare minimum, and I can completely tell the difference now. This is going to look so sweet, and sound even better. I'm stoked. Thanks Adam!


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/14o82-DSCN6734.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/94yl1-DSCN6737.JPG

29-09-2013, 08:21 AM
Hi Glenn, Great colour. I need to put down a deep base coat, but never tried that finish before, hope it turns out as good as yours is.
Good work.

Tim
29-09-2013, 11:31 AM
I see red I see red I see reeedddd.
Very nice Glenn

Brendan
29-09-2013, 12:47 PM
Glenn - gotta love the red guitar - red Wudtones rock!

stan
30-09-2013, 06:40 AM
wow Glenn, that's coming up a treat

GlennGP
05-10-2013, 04:12 AM
Stan, you should see it with a couple of coats of high gloss on it!

My care package from StewMac arrived today, so it was on with setting up the neck.

Here we are ready to go with the radiused sanding block. I'd levelled the neck as closely as possible with the truss rod, and then masked around the frets, then put a texta line across the top of each fret, so that low-points could be identified as the sanding progressed.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/oz3cz-DSCN6764.JPG

This is an overhead view after a few passes with the sanding block. Not much to see, not much to tell. There were a few irregularities but nothing to get very worked up about.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/65440-DSCN6765.JPG

This is a close-up at the same point as the pic above. Like I say, not much to get worried about.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/b3ncv-DSCN6766.JPG

GlennGP
05-10-2013, 04:18 AM
I got one of those double-sided crowning files - fabulous piece of kit. Using the "medium" side, filing the flat tops off those frets was a breeze. Just keep filing until the sliver of flat disappears. Brilliant.

On the right, a re-crowned fret. On the left, levelled and flat-topped - yet to be re-crowned.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/gv498-DSCN6768.JPG

Nearly there ... seven to go! (the top fret was already done!)

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/5t9dq-DSCN6769.JPG

Once I'd re-crowned all the frets, I gave each a quick rub with 1000 grit paper, then a polish with 0000 steel wool. In this pic, the two frets on the left have been polished, the two on the right are yet to be done.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/9163h-DSCN6772.JPG

GlennGP
05-10-2013, 04:21 AM
And here's the finished product. Nice and level, and shiny.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/ihaj2-DSCN6773.JPG

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/3mir3-DSCN6774.JPG

stan
05-10-2013, 07:07 AM
Great work Glen, you make me feel lazy getting DB to do mine prior to shipping...

Tim
05-10-2013, 08:35 AM
Nice work Glenn

GlennGP
05-10-2013, 09:37 AM
Thanks Tim. It's coming up pretty well, I'm very lucky to have the luxury of time with this one, and I'm appreciating it. The difference between "building" something and "crafting" something, I'd like to think!

dingobass
05-10-2013, 10:34 AM
Great work Glenn :)

GlennGP
06-10-2013, 03:14 AM
Now that the neck is sorted out it's time to get some Wudtone on it. We've gone for the original vintage yellow on the neck, so here we go!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/3r494-DSCN6775.JPG

I've got the fretboard masked off, because I like it to be the natural colour. When I do the last clear top coat I'll take the masking off, use some 0000 steel wool to remove any "ridge" along the tape line, and then include the fretboard in the final top coat. That was pretty much what I did with the Yellow Peril, and I've been very happy with the finish and the feel of the fretboard under my fingers.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/08glf-DSCN6776.JPG

GlennGP
06-10-2013, 04:35 AM
Ooh, a question for 1800-DINGOBASS - I've made sure that the bone nut will fit the slot, but haven't fitted it yet, on the basis that I haven't been able to check the height of the action. I'm proposing to drop it into the slot when I set up the guitar for the first time and work it out then, and only when I'm happy with the height will I glue it in. It's a pretty tight fit, it would probably stay exactly where it is if I didn't glue it, now that I think about it.

Any thoughts on this approach? (anyone can weigh in, not just DB!)

GlennGP
07-10-2013, 04:00 AM
Today I warmed up the soldering iron to upgrade the passive electronic components for the Red Menace. As explained on page 1, this is a guitar which may actually be taken on stage by its owner, so the upgrades are:

CRL 3-way switch
Alpha pots
Sprague Orange Drop cap
tone fidelity circuit

New components on the left, control panel with stock components on the right.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/90866-DSCN6777.JPG

GlennGP
07-10-2013, 04:03 AM
Earlier in this thread I had some trouble tracing the circuits on the 3-way. Today I got it worked out - well, I had to!

First things first - get the component on the panel and wire it to the pot. The screw holes for the stock part were smaller, so I had to bore them out a bit to accommodate the CRL component screws.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/8z419-DSCN6780.JPG

Here we have the solution to the circuit problem. Pretty sure I've seen this done elsewhere!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/g9ooq-DSCN6781.JPG

GlennGP
07-10-2013, 04:07 AM
Lastly, getting the pots on the panel. Until you see them next to one another you don't realise how much more robust those Alpha pots are!

In order to preserve my sanity, I replaced them one at a time, taking careful note of what was attached where and then putting them straight back in the same places on the new component, while it was all still fresh in my memory.

In this pic I've changed the tone pot but not the volume. Orange drop installed! As with the switch, the holes in the panel for the stock parts were too small for the new ones, so I had to bore these out a bit too.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/6gb82-DSCN6782.JPG

And here we are all finished up. Don't look too closely at the soldering, I'm a novice in that department, but they're solid and they work.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/67931-DSCN6783.JPG

stan
07-10-2013, 09:04 AM
great work Glenn, this one will rock!

Gavin1393
08-10-2013, 02:12 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from GlennGP on October 5, 2013, 13:35
Ooh, a question for 1800-DINGOBASS - I've made sure that the bone nut will fit the slot, but haven't fitted it yet, on the basis that I haven't been able to check the height of the action. I'm proposing to drop it into the slot when I set up the guitar for the first time and work it out then, and only when I'm happy with the height will I glue it in. It's a pretty tight fit, it would probably stay exactly where it is if I didn't glue it, now that I think about it.

Any thoughts on this approach? (anyone can weigh in, not just DB!)

Sounds fine to do it that way and set up once you are finished, but I would still glue it into place with some super glue at that time. It will come out of the slot again if you need to change it later.
These plastic one's are glued in with something weird which often causes damage to the fretboard, but a clean nut slot and a drop or two of superglue will do the trick. If you don't glue the nut in it might slip during the middle of your Van Halen solo and that would destroy your tuning!

GlennGP
08-10-2013, 08:09 AM
Quote from Gavin1393 on October 7, 2013, 11:12[/b]
... If you don't glue the nut in it might slip during the middle of your Van Halen solo and that would destroy your tuning!

Hah! I wish!

But still, thanks Gavin, I'll do as you suggest.

Also, any thoughts on the switch wiring? I've seen a diagram in the last day or so which suggests I may not have this quite right. The obvious test would be to wire the pickups and output jack to the panel and problem solve that way, but hey, asking you guys is much more fun!

WeirdBits
08-10-2013, 10:18 AM
It's hard to be sure from the image of your switch wiring, but it looks to me like you are missing a wire bridging the output of the two commons (assuming you have the output on the common lugs and the pickups connected to your short jump wires). With CRL type switches each side of the wafer is a separate 'pole', or circuit, so each side needs some link to the output, depending on your wiring configuration.

Here are two different Tele diagrams for 3-way CRL type switches, just pick the one that makes the most sense to you and use that:
Di Marzio Tele style (http://www.dimarzio.com/sites/default/files/diagrams/TK&TV1v1t_3wtel.pdf) (output connected to common lugs on switch)
Seymour Duncan Tele style (http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=standard_tele) (pickup 'hots' connected to common lugs)

From what I can see in the photo of your switch, you seem to be wanting to use the 'output on switch commons' like the Di Marzio diagram, but you don't yet have the wire across the switch linking the two common lugs... I think.

Hope that helps.

Brendan
08-10-2013, 10:51 AM
Glenn - having seen Gav glue in a nut and remove one safely - if you use a tiny amount across the bottom of the groove (think thin strip) - you should be right if you do want to remove it / re-place it.

GlennGP
08-10-2013, 10:57 AM
Thanks Scott, kind of what I suspected. I have the SD diagram, which proves to me that when I think I have something worked out I should second guess myself! I'll z do some testing and sort it out.

WeirdBits
09-10-2013, 06:56 AM
In case you are still wrangling with your switch, I took some photos of a CRL 3-way today and added some annotations to hopefully help with your wiring.

The CRL has 2 poles, or separate switching circuits, one on each side of the wafer, in this case red and blue. Within each circuit there is a common lug that is always connected, labelled lug 0. So the red 0 is always connected in the red circuit, blue 0 is always connected in the blue circuit. The first image shows how the lugs are linked in each of the switch positions, from top to bottom, giving Bridge, Bridge & Neck, and Neck respectively. The second image shows an 'output on common lugs' wiring diagram overlaid on the switch giving you that standard Tele layout of Bridge, Bridge & Neck, Neck shown in the first image (with 'Output' going to your Volume pot). Sorry about the text colours in the images, I was trying to get something that would differentiate but still be visible at all sizes.

If you look at the sequence of images in the first pic and overlay that with the wiring in the second image, you should see the following:
In the 'Bridge' position, the red 3 and red 0 are linked, thus connecting the Bridge hot to output, blue 0 and blue 1 connect to output but add nothing.
In the 'Bridge & Neck' position, red 2 and red 0 link the Bridge hot to output, and blue 0 and blue 2 link the Neck hot to output.
In the 'Neck' position, red 1 and red 0 are linked but add nothing to output, while blue 0 and blue 3 link the Neck hot to output.

CRL 3-way switch contact sequence
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/537qd-CRL_3_way_contacts.jpg

CRL 3-way standard Tele wiring (output on common lugs)
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/sdau8-CRL_3_way_wiring-output-common.jpg

Does that make sense?

GlennGP
09-10-2013, 08:24 AM
Scott, I'm a visual learner and that, my friend, is chapter and verse to me. Nicely done, I have it now. Please post this again in the "Wiring Pick-ups" area, I'm sure people will find this very useful.

Gavin1393
10-10-2013, 12:19 AM
Very nicely done!

GlennGP
10-10-2013, 03:56 AM
In other news, we have one finished and polished Carmine Gypsy body, ready for assembly!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/51858-DSCN6792.JPG

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/ve6es-DSCN6793.JPG

wokkaboy
10-10-2013, 03:59 AM
looking sweet Glenn, how many coats of top coat did you apply, was it a gloss or satin ? appears to have a nice gloss finish

GlennGP
10-10-2013, 05:35 AM
Wokka, that's (in order) 1 coat deep colour, 6 base coats, 2 more coats deep colour, 1 more base coat, then 4 coats extra gloss top coat. Then cut and polish with Turtle Wax polishing compound and scratch remover. Pretty pleased with the result!

[edited - I looked back a few pages and discovered I'd got the number of base coats in each bracket wrong!]

wokkaboy
10-10-2013, 05:50 AM
Hi Glenn, thanks for that, gee thats quite a few coats, and you switched deep/base/deep/base coats. Yes photos look excellent, look forward to seeing it completed and strung up !

GlennGP
10-10-2013, 06:56 AM
Yeah, as I commented a few pages ago, Wokka, I wasn't happy with the colour depth so I switched back to the deep colour after a few base coats, and that gave me the saturation I was after. It was a bit of a gamble, but it paid off. Then, knowing that I wanted to go for a very glossy finish, I built up quite a few layers of base coat and extra gloss top coat before going for the cut and polish. Time consuming, yes, but completely worth the effort in my opinion. This is not a transparent glossy nitro finish by any stretch, just Wudtone with a good polish at the end. But I think it kicks arse.

wokkaboy
10-10-2013, 07:39 AM
sounds good Glenn, after a polish the shine is enough for most people after 4 top gloss coats. Totally agreed on taking your time between gloss coats pays off, So presume the red menace will be ready for November GOTM

adam
10-10-2013, 07:51 AM
I like where this one is heading Glenn.

GlennGP
10-10-2013, 07:52 AM
I haven't been aiming for a particular finish date, but the way things are panning out November looks do-able. :-)

GlennGP
11-10-2013, 09:26 AM
After all the hoo-haa about wiring I got out the Seymour Duncan diagram tonight and wired accordingly.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/m3weg-DSCN6798.JPG

Then I got out the pickups, output jack and my amp and did a test (and yes, for those paying attention, I have the pickup positions reversed!).

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/2p93d-DSCN6796.JPG

All working, all happy. Now I just need to finish the neck before going for final assembly and set up, probably sometime mid next week.

stan
11-10-2013, 10:36 AM
great progress Glenn

Tim
11-10-2013, 11:24 AM
Looking great Glenn

GlennGP
12-10-2013, 10:42 PM
Heh. Well, I overlooked two things:
I still need to shield the cavities
I didn't check whether the control cavity is wide enough for the new pots - it's not!

So, I'll be very careful widening parts of that cavity to accommodate those monstrous Alpha pots, and then I'll do the shielding, and then I'll put it together.

Naturally, I discovered problem #2 while seeing how the body looked with the parts on it (and, I have to say, it was suitably horn-worthy).

Andyport
13-10-2013, 06:29 PM
Sounds like you're liking the look of it Glenn..."suitably horn-worthy"...lol

GlennGP
15-10-2013, 10:23 AM
No rest for the wicked here! Tonight I enlarged strategic parts of the control cavity to accommodate the new components, and then applied the copper shielding.

Here's the finished "gouging" process. The blue tape around the cavity both indicates the perimeter of the actual panel, and allows me to mark centre points for the pots, by which to guide my gouging. In the process of fitting this up I also discovered that the cavity wasn't quite deep enough for the new switch gear, so I had to very carefully gouge it out about 4-5mm deeper, with many stops for measuring!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/5427y-DSCN6799.JPG

Here's the finished shielding job. I had the bridge and control panel close at hand to guide how far over the edge the shielding could go. Around the bridge it's not more than a mm or two on the top and sides.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/cy928-DSCN6800.JPG

And this is a close up of the control cavity. With the shielding in you can really see the extra depression in the bottom, to fit the switch!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/9qc6q-DSCN6801.JPG

robin
15-10-2013, 11:20 PM
Nice neat job Glenn. Going to look nice when its finished.

I had to do the same to my Tele (for the same reasons) and it didn't turn out half as nice as yours. I think I rushed it too much and managed to mark the finish. Meh, adds character. lol.

rob

GlennGP
16-10-2013, 08:34 AM
Kind words Rob, thanks! But in the end, it's gotta sound good, and that's more important!

Tonight I started the final coat on the neck, and while the topside dries I did a test fit of body. This is what I meant by "suitably horn-worthy"!!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/7s4zr-DSCN6801A.JPG

Scott J.
16-10-2013, 09:04 AM
Absolutely lovely job, Glen ... she's one (VERY) foxy looking axe!!! ;)

GlennGP
20-10-2013, 09:19 AM
Okay, we're nearly there. When I put the decal on the Yellow Peril I had some acrylic top coat beading issues, so when it came to the Red Menace I paid a bit closer attention to the instructions on the clear acrylic rattle can. The White Knight can called for a 600 grit rub down on a gloss surface prior to coat, so I duly applied said 600 grit paper. But it very quickly started removing some colour, so I had to get out the Wudtone Vintage Yellow again to restore the colour! Bugger!

Anyhoo ... with the colour restored, and it all looking pretty sweet, this evening I popped Tania's decal on and gave it a coat of the clear gloss acrylic. Tomorrow I'll wire it up properly and start setting it up, but here's a sneak-peek at the finished Red Menace.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/b13w4-DSCN6801B.jpg

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/ru6k6-DSCN6801C.jpg

wokkaboy
20-10-2013, 11:11 PM
Looking sweet Glenn. You are lucky you live on the other side of the Country of the tele napper

GlennGP
20-10-2013, 11:22 PM
I know, Wokka, I know!

I also tidied up the pick-guard last night. Needed trimming back on the bottom side of the cutaway. Much better now.

I have a wiring question over in the appropriate part of the forum - concerning an alternative way to ground the shielded cavities using the extra ground wire from the pickups.

maxaxe
21-10-2013, 09:50 AM
This is a seriously beautiful Tele.

What a super finish. Your attention to detail is inspiring, right down to the perfect placement of the custom headstock decal. Certainly worth all the effort and all those coats!

Congrats.

stan
21-10-2013, 10:47 AM
looks great Glenn, love the logo. Nice work overall

GlennGP
29-10-2013, 02:48 AM
Finally finished the Red Menace to my satisfaction and it's set up well enough. The sound is ... well, it's wonderful. Here are some pics. Front first.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/31vm3-front1.jpg

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/t337k-front2.jpg

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/h70iw-full1.jpg

GlennGP
29-10-2013, 02:49 AM
And here's the back and headstock.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/r8901-back1.jpg

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/832k8-head1.jpg

I don't see any reason to play guitar of the month strategically, so I'll pop over there and post the same pics, and take my chances against the other very wonderful guitars that have been entered.

stan
29-10-2013, 03:54 AM
great stuff Glenn, it will put up a great fight in GOTM for sure

Brendan
29-10-2013, 12:53 PM
Glenn - whoever wins is going to be worthy - at the same time, if you don't win, it's worthwhile knowing that it's been beaten by a beautiful guitar. That said - your effort is far from shabby - it's a very nice guitar.

Tim
30-10-2013, 09:50 AM
Awesum guitar Glenn came up a treat

GlennGP
30-10-2013, 10:08 AM
Thank you fellas, I'm right chuffed with it. If I manage to manufacture some time in the next week or three I'll try to do a video so you can enjoy how it sounds as much as I am. Hopefully before its owner comes and claims it! At which point I'll have to scrape together the money to buy some of those bloody pickups for myself. They're pretty fricken good.

lawry
30-10-2013, 10:55 AM
Het Glenn. Do it. Make a video. I want to hear as many people's builds as possible. I love watching people build these things along with all the dramas and successes. To hear it is like being there for the grand finale.

Scott J.
30-10-2013, 12:50 PM
Absolutely top-shelf job Glenn! It has to be one of the sweetest looking Tele's I've seen in a while - I'm sure Tania will be right happy with it!

GlennGP
11-11-2013, 04:33 AM
Tania came over today to take delivery of the Red Menace. That's one happy lady! Straight away she commented on how light the alder body was in comparison to the guitars owned by her band's guitarist. So, correct choice there!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/59b1j-DSCN6882.JPG

Andyport
11-11-2013, 05:12 AM
That smile must have made it all worth it.
Well done Glenn.

adam
11-11-2013, 06:14 AM
Fantastic photo Glenn, she looks very happy (as would I with such a lovely Tele).

Tim
11-11-2013, 07:56 AM
That's a smile of one very happy lady.
Great job Glenn

pablopepper
11-11-2013, 08:48 AM
Can't argue with a result like that.

GlennGP
11-11-2013, 09:55 AM
Yeah, it was pretty cool! I also handed over all allen keys necessary for adjustments, the guide to setting up the intonation (it's not quite right yet), the Pit Bull Guitars sticker and a USB stick containing the 80-odd pictures I took during the build. That all went down pretty well.

Bass Guy
11-11-2013, 10:46 AM
The smile says it all. It's magic handing over someone's new guitar to them.

wokkaboy
12-11-2013, 01:11 AM
Well done Glenn, Tania looks very happy and better warn her of the tele napper in the West !

lawry
12-11-2013, 08:47 AM
That's excellent Glenn, and well earned. A lucky lass with a cool axe.