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Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:04 PM
Installing the potentiometers, switches and output jack into the 335 has been the source of some frustration even amongst the most experienced of us builders on the forum.
Perhaps the most differentiating aspect of the '335' is that installing the electronic components principally takes place through the decorative 'f' hole. There is no plate to remove or install to achieve the result you'd find on most other guitars.

Searching the web to find out how to do this lead me to believe that the ONLY way to accomplish this task was to tie the pots to strings and to concoct a plug with leads to insert into the output jack. I spent a bit of time building this jack and searching the house for string. This time ended up being a minuscule amount of the actual time it eventually took to install the components into the body of the guitar.

The problems I experienced were easily solved once i'd figured out what the key issues were.
Wires seem to get tangled inside the body and when you try to pull the components into place wires detach, particularly the earth wires.
The strings pull free from the Pots before getting them into place.
Pots slip out of place and back into the body when trying to tighten the nuts to lock the pots in place.
When trying to figure out which earth wire has broken free the only was to resolve this is to remove all six components and draw them out of the 'f' hole and then start the installation process all over again.

In the end, if you are looking to get a working result, with no hum such as this, then the following guide may save you some time and frustration.



http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/mqbe3-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:17 PM
The typical process that you will be encouraged to follow when putting together the component is to use cardboard or a perspex template as shown here. With a '335' i am not convinced that the standard template is the most effective way to do it. This does not mean that you dont use the template. You should, it saves you dropping hot solder onto your finish and besides it is pretty much the only way you will connect everything up on the 335. However, the change to the template that I would suggest is to make the connecting wires longer between the output jack, the switch, and both sets of the 'volume and tone' controls.

This lengthening of the wires makes it easier to trouble shoot detached wires when the components are in place. You will be able to remove components individually back through the 'f' hole whilst leaving the other components in place. Note that the 'tone and volume pot' for each pickup will have the standard short wiring and will be treated as a single component when installing and removing from the body. All connecting wires are longer to enable them to be removed individually.

This picture is how I started with the wiring far too bunched up with short wiring causing it to get tangled and to detach.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/3l533-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:20 PM
Here are the six electronic components made up into four 'components'.

Once you have completed these, then connect them up with the longer wires.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/g96el-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:24 PM
Here is the perspex template I used which is drawn by placing it directly on top of the body and tracing it.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/i49l5-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:27 PM
This is probably the best secret of making the job easier, 5mm tubing!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/2aze5-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:29 PM
The 5mm tubing fits tightly inside of the input jack and will not fall out like the recommended jack creation it was suggested I build!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/uwld1-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:31 PM
...and the tubing fits snuggly over the pot controls too, large or small!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/l2eh3-image.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/r6156-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:36 PM
To use the tubing effectively it needs to be drawn through the holes where the component will be placed and then through the 'f' hole before that end is coupled to the pot.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/i7244-image.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/7782d-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:44 PM
The first component that you want to connect is the input jack. Of course it is fully wired at this stage but I wasnt about to disconnect everything on my finished 335!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/49304-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:46 PM
Connected up! Bit of an optical illusion, the tubing doesn't actually go all the way through...that's another piece of tubing in the background!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/7w0n3-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:51 PM
All the tubing drawn through the holes and finally through the 'f' hole.
The switch and the pot closest to the 'f' hole can be inserted into place with the fingers and hence do not need to be 'tubed' up!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/2l7g0-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:53 PM
The 'bottom tone and volume pot' will be the next in line after the Jack. Both pots are 'tubed' and drawn into position together.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/o15l6-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:55 PM
Only one pot of the second set of 'tone and volume controls' needs to be tubed. The pot closest to the 'f' hole can be inserted with your fingers.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/qv1jm-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:56 PM
Drawing the tubed pots through the 'f' hole.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/7lgb2-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 12:58 PM
Returning to the Jack, the jack is pulled into position through the drilled hole.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/mka51-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:01 PM
An added advantage of the tubing is that with the Jack in place, the washer and nut can be slipped over the tube and will slid down the tube to the Jack. The nut and washer can be tightened without worrying about the Jack falling back into the body and you having to restart that part of the process.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/b5lrb-image.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/pgyn1-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:03 PM
Sliding the washers for the Jack over the tubing!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/4j931-image.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/e1dho-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:05 PM
Tighten the jack nut in place
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/w7woy-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:06 PM
Once tightened up you can remove the tubing.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/2l40r-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:07 PM
With the Jack in place, insert the Volume and Tone pots through the 'f' hole.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/45r0n-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:11 PM
Draw the pots into place and using the same process as with the Jack, slide the washer, volume and control indicators and nut over the tubing and allow it to drop down onto the pot. Tighten up and then remove the tubing.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/3i0i9-image.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/1p11u-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:12 PM
Draw the remaining 'tone and volume' unit through the 'f' hole and position the tubed pot into place. Using your fingers position the last remaining pot before turning your attention to the switch.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/x172d-image.jpg

dingobass
11-04-2013, 01:14 PM
Nice one Gavin :D

I will be filing this away and if I ever need to wire up a hollow body again, I will be using this method.

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:17 PM
Here is a quick picture of the two tubed pots about to be pulled simultaneously into place. This is fairly important if you don't want to rip the earth wires of the pots!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/9w6wy-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:18 PM
Position the switch through the 'f' hole with your fingers and get it into position.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/j2e31-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:19 PM
Holding the switch in place supported by your finger insert the washer and nut and tighten.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/5r613-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:21 PM
...and there you have it. Everything installed in a matter of minutes instead of the hours of frustration that some of us had to endure.
No where on the internet or elsewhere have I seen this method used to I claim this one as a first in the world for Pitbull Guitars!!!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/8in0q-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:23 PM
A reminder of the finished article.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/ry8in-image.jpg

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 01:25 PM
Thanks DB! Would be nice to get the summation of your experience of your 335 on here.

Bass Guy
11-04-2013, 02:06 PM
Genius solution! Well done! I actually feel somewhat confident about attempting this kit now....

adam
11-04-2013, 09:11 PM
Brilliant tutorial Gav! I'sent sent Milly a link to this topic, so hopefully she will have all the help she needs now.

Thanks so much for doing this Gav.

keloooe
11-04-2013, 09:22 PM
Great article there Gavin!!! This process isn't as scary now!!!

dingobass
11-04-2013, 10:13 PM
So Gavin, you want a run down on my experience building the 335?

The build part was a whole lotta fun, the kit I built was a bit of a challenge as the bridge post holes were off a tad but I solved this by ratting around in my extensive collection of bits until I found a bridge that fitted snugly.

As for the wiring, thank you so much for sharing this info IPSO FACTO!
I still break out in a cold sweat and get the twitches every time I see a 335 now 8O

A great article though, and at least others who build this kit will be spared the extensive psychological counselling that I had to go through :D

Gavin1393
11-04-2013, 10:41 PM
actually, remembering the easier solution has almost inspired me to have another go at one, particularly seeing the results some of the folks are getting with their '335' in two tone and bursts!
Adam, happy to do the tutorial..been threatening to do it for a while but finally got some time to do it.
DB, thanks for the input on your build!

wokkaboy
11-04-2013, 11:51 PM
Hey Gav that is a sensational tutorial and makes it clear with the clear perspex template whats going on.

I'm keen now to build another 335 looking at this method should make life easier

so glad I caught a thread you wrote about the 5mm clear tubing before I attempted mine, that saved about 10 hours of counselling as DB says !

Is this what you did before you installed all the gear to the real 335 body as a test run ?

well done taking all the photos on the way, I would have been too keen to get the job finished and missed about half those photos

you must have had your emerald SG on the mind labeling the perspex SG 335 - is that a new Gibbo model ? haha

well done buddy

cheers Wokka

WeirdBits
12-04-2013, 01:05 AM
Thanks, Gav, great walkthrough! I will definitely be making use of this when I start working on my ES.

Gavin1393
12-04-2013, 05:48 AM
Yeah, Wokka! Pretty much the process I followed on take 742! I built all the wiring on the template but as mentioned the wires were just too short, got tangled, ground fell off repeatedly! Hence had to redo the whole thing. But the templates I create are all perspex...easier to mark for a lazy fellow!!
You are quite correct about the labelling! Was working on the SG and wrote that down on the template and then realised i was actually planning on using the template for the 335!

wokkaboy
12-04-2013, 05:58 AM
yes Gav great idea for practicing/testing on a template.
I was very lucky finished the soldering 5pm the day before GOTM closed and got the wiring through the F hole without losing any connections. Must have had something to do with using 5 ton of solder on each join !
Anyway keep up the good work this forum is a great for online help and tips that relate to the various Pit Bull builds
And Gav you have some work to stop the Pest overtaking your post count buddy ! haha

Gavin1393
12-04-2013, 10:10 AM
The Pest is relentless....i have already conceded!!

pedro
17-05-2013, 04:41 AM
This is invaluable Gavin - thanks for this in advance - I did have visions of stringing the whole contraption through the f's - but now I am really looking forward to this "lesser" challenge. Cheers, Pete

adam
17-05-2013, 10:18 AM
I agree, this is such a good tutorial I want to turn it into a video with the man himself (Gav) showing us how its done.

dingobass
17-05-2013, 10:29 AM
Great idea. Might save many folk from requiring extensive therapy :)

Gavin1393
17-05-2013, 11:01 AM
I'll send you my movie agents contact number and while i am at it my therapist!

pedro
12-06-2013, 05:18 AM
Hi Gavin, I am now in the process of preparing myself for the wiring of my 335 - and I have been closely studying your approach - one question please.... are your capacitors wired differently to the wiring video for the tone pots please??

Gavin1393
12-06-2013, 06:59 AM
Hi Pedro, I honestly don't know. Can you email me the diagram you are using to gavin.bramley@gmail.com and I will have a look for you. I typically do my own wiring without referring to the schematics since I tend to use Push Pull Pots to Coil-split everything!

dingobass
12-06-2013, 08:23 AM
Hey Guys, I have one tiny improvement on Gav's plastic tube method..
Try using 5mm heat shrink instead, it is more flexible and is a touch easier to use :)

Gavin1393
12-06-2013, 10:29 AM
Db, are you trying to steal my starring role in the as yet unmade video!!! :). :). :)

Brendan
12-06-2013, 10:35 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Gavin1393 on June 11, 2013, 19:29
Db, are you trying to steal my starring role in the as yet unmade video!!! :). :). :)
Maybe a duet? Or one talking head and another doing the actions?

dingobass
12-06-2013, 10:36 AM
Not at all, Gav. Just a minor tweak to your otherwise brilliant idea :)

Gavin1393
12-06-2013, 10:40 AM
Haha! Of course I ran downstairs to go try it out but I didnt have a piece long enough! It will certainly hold the pots in place. Did you see my post on your Riccy was my 1000th post! Clearly I talk too much!!
And after my jealous rage i'll probably get stage fright and you'll be drafted in anyways!! 8)

dingobass
12-06-2013, 10:51 AM
Yep.... too much spare time on your hands Gav :)
Don't worry, I will be at the shoot, pulling faces at you and making rude comments!

Gavin1393
12-06-2013, 11:22 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on June 11, 2013, 19:51
Yep.... too much spare time on your hands Gav :)
Don't worry, I will be at the shoot, pulling faces at you and making rude comments!

Thank goodness for hot blinding studio lights that prevent you from seeing the audience!!

pedro
15-06-2013, 07:57 AM
....I am despondant....I think my ambition has outstripped my competence....firstly I used BMW and with care and patience it has turned out ok but not as delightful as my Camine Gypsy LP....however it will look great (from a distance) with the gold furniture and the highlights and the aged vintage yellow neck -gold on black looks great. I have now had a test run through of the installation using the potential hit movie Gav's 5mm tubing innovation...I found that I would need fishing line for the switch and the amp plug (maybe have a look at DB's upgrade).....however now I am in trouble the wiring is fine all joints are tested and ok - however the bridge pickup is fine but I have no idea what is the problem with the neck pickup - been through line by line and solder by solder .....nothing....I shall leave it tonight and review everything tomorrow....damn it .....thanks for listening ....a large glass of vino collapso awaits......Pedro

Gavin1393
15-06-2013, 08:03 AM
The 5mm tubing fits INSIDE the output jack.......the switch you should be able to get into position with your fingers.
You may have a 'dry joint' with the solder? Might also be the switch......check these. Dont worry, you are not alone! I rook several hours to get mine right and so did DB....

pedro
15-06-2013, 08:15 AM
yes I put the tubing inside - but obviously not far enough as it popped out half way through retreaving it....thanks for the advice on the solder - (dumb question alert....)what is the best solution, disassemble the lot and redo the soldering or just add additional solder to the joints - how would I test the switch?

dingobass
15-06-2013, 08:28 AM
Pedro, I feel for you... I still have nightmares of the 335 I built..
If you have a multimeter you can check the switch easily by putting red on the pup in and black on the signal to jack out.
If you don't have a meter, swap the connections and see what happens.
If the same problem occurs you have a dud switch.
If this is the case, email me at dingobass@pitbullguitars.com and I will send you a replacement.

Gavin1393
15-06-2013, 09:32 AM
Pedro, you have to be very careful soldering these switches...great switches will set you back $20 plus. When you solder any electronics there is always a danger of overheating and burningout some part. With capacitors and resistors they (the experts) will tell you to use a clip between the area you are soldering and the film/etc. this is difficult to do with a switch so you have to get it right first time. The moment you try and resolder a wire with the less expensive switches you are asking for trouble!

pedro
16-06-2013, 12:59 AM
Thanks guys - off to the footy today, tomorrow will be re-energised and full of confidence......haha ( and I thought I had it all sussed)

Gavin1393
16-06-2013, 03:28 AM
No worries, hard to believe I know, but DB was once a novice too! Ah! Ok, and simply to make DB feel better I may have been too! :p

pedro
18-06-2013, 12:37 PM
Hi Gav and DB, so I switched the connections to the three way switch and the same pickup (bridge) worked and the neck pickup was dead - so i am assuming that the switch may have been damaged in the soldering but the overall wiring is ok?

Gavin1393
18-06-2013, 12:52 PM
Sounds like that to me.....

dingobass
18-06-2013, 01:35 PM
Hang on... Wired to switch mk1, neck dead.
swap wires, neck still dead?
Not the switch... Either a dud solder join or pickup.

1. Make sure you have the pup HOT wire (inner insulated one) soldered to the correct lug on the pot
2. Make sure the earth wire is soldered to the back of the same pot.
3. Check that you have an earth jumper from the back of each pot connecting all the pots in series.
4. Have a large glass of Vino
5. if all the above are correct, we have a problem....
6. refer to 4.
7. Test the neck pup is alive by swapping it's wiring with the bridge pup,(at potentiometer) if still dead it is the pup.
8. Refer to 4.
9. Email me at dingobass@pitbullguitars.com and I will send you out a replacement pup.

Gavin1393
18-06-2013, 02:19 PM
My bad, I missed that it was the same Pickup that wasn't working after you changed the switch connections. DB would be correct, especially about point 4.

pedro
19-06-2013, 12:36 AM
Guys,
....I have just rechecked 1. and 2. and found one, uno (1) stray wire from the earth wire soldered to the hot wire, problem solvered. Cheers DB !! - my day is made now back to point 4......hooray.

Pedro

Gavin1393
19-06-2013, 06:05 AM
Alls well that ends well in the happy little community of PBG land!

pedro
19-06-2013, 06:39 AM
Thanks DB, just one (more) thing....can I now leave the three way switch configured with alternate wiring or should I re-do (personally I dont see any reason to change it back?)

dingobass
19-06-2013, 08:41 AM
Glad you got it sorted Pedro.
No need to swap the wires back, just spin the switch so it works the right way round :)

pedro
23-06-2013, 06:46 AM
Thanks all....finished and it looks great - although I have noticed that after tuning the neck is starting to detach from the body - I guess this is not normal, used recommended wood glue and kept it clamped for 24 hours - but apart from pulling it apart again is there any remedial work I can do?

Brendan
23-06-2013, 06:49 AM
Doesn't sound right - what sort of glue did you use? Potentially dumb question - how old was it?

pedro
23-06-2013, 07:08 AM
Hi Brendan - it was Aquadhere PVA probably around 12 months....Pete

pedro
23-06-2013, 07:43 AM
My first guitar with a glue in neck - there didnt appear to be a great deal of contact - I must say that I feel more comfortable with screw in necks of the LP1 and the Tele (look alike)....Pete

dingobass
23-06-2013, 08:37 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from pedro on June 22, 2013, 16:08
Hi Brendan - it was Aquadhere PVA probably around 12 months....Pete

Oh dear.. there is your problem, or should I say both your problems...

Selleys PVA is crap. It just aint strong enough and it does deteriorate with age...

Dude, sorry, but rip the neck off, well, remove it and I will send you the glue for this job.

To remove the neck, get an el cheapo spatula and heat it up until it turns blue.
Work it down the join to break the bond (whats left of it)

Once you have the neck out, sand the crap- sorry- glue off with 80 grit paper.
When it is all off you will be able to re glue the neck.

Brendan
23-06-2013, 09:06 AM
Yep - what DB said - I've had Aquadhere that was no longer white - had broken down that much - wouldn't hold two pieces of paper together... DB's glue will be heaps better - if you can't wait - I've heard good things about Titebond or DB has talked about hide glue... Otherwise - wait for a little package in the mail... I know it's a pain, but it's better to get this out of the way now before it turns tragic.

Adam - the instructional video for set necks does have using Aquadhere. Given that it can cause issues and you guys supply a better glue, is it worthwhile taking down the video until there's a chance to record something using the better glue?

dingobass
23-06-2013, 09:34 AM
Good point Brendan... the PVA vid must go!

keloooe
23-06-2013, 09:49 AM
What is the glue that DB has been sending us???? *crosses fingers and hopes that Titebond smells like mayo*

Brendan
23-06-2013, 10:03 AM
Quote from keloooe on June 22, 2013, 18:49
What is the glue that DB has been sending us???? *crosses fingers and hopes that Titebond smells like mayo*
I heard the stuff he sent you was flour and water...

Gavin1393
23-06-2013, 10:09 AM
I expect the glue that DB is sending you will be Titebond.
To add to DB's post, how I remove a neck is to use a steam iron, wet cloth and metal spatula. Heat up the area where the neck joins to the body using both steam and alternatively pressing the iron onto the cloth after placing the cloth on the neck. After doing this for a few minutes you should be able to push the spatula into the area where the neck is separating and simply remove the neck. If you find the neck doesnt want to come away from the body keep steaming it and it should come away. This method should cause minimal damage and is also the recommended method for separating a glued on bridge or neck on an acoustic...and this method will work even though the neck is NOT coming away from the body!

pedro
25-06-2013, 05:50 AM
great stuff - thanks guys (I thought it was me.....and the curse of the E335....!!)at least this guitar has taught me the value of patience...haha.

Pete

Gavin1393
25-06-2013, 08:00 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from pedro on June 24, 2013, 14:50
great stuff - thanks guys (I thought it was me.....and the curse of the E335....!!)at least this guitar has taught me the value of patience...haha.

Pete

It does that for sure.....lost mine a few times with this build!

pedro
26-06-2013, 03:40 AM
...steam iron, wet cloth and spatula worked very well.Cheers.

Brendan
26-06-2013, 09:22 AM
Great news - hopefully DB's wonderglue will do the trick...

pedro
30-06-2013, 07:50 AM
....bought some Titebond (only a couple of outlets sell it) 237ml for FOUR bucks....bargain...!!

Gavin1393
06-05-2016, 04:41 PM
Bump for Adam

kimball492
06-05-2016, 06:48 PM
Great tutorial Gav. I'm sure you'll save builders hours using this method.

Gavin1393
06-05-2016, 09:29 PM
Great tutorial Gav. I'm sure you'll save builders hours using this method.Truth be told, DB and I struggled for hours when building our first kits, but it has been the years of therapy trying to get over the trauma that has been the hardest.

Dougr
05-06-2016, 02:26 PM
Thank you for this post Gavin 1393. I am in the midst of soldering all of the components right now & you have given me some great ideas for final fitting. I do have one question though. Before I try to get every thing into the F hole I would like to test my wiring. On a video I watched Adam tap the Humbuckers with a screwdriver & he seemed to get a sound from them. I just plugged my completed set up (still outside the guitar) into my amp via the supplied plug. I could not hear anything when tapping the Humbuckers gently but got some hiss etc from each of the pots & on each of the three positions on the switch. Turning the knobs when doing this indicated that the volume was working, even though it was just a hiss. Do you know of any better way of testing before finally installing the whole lot? Thanks.

Gavin1393
23-08-2016, 01:00 PM
It doesn't sound like you have wired up correctly. Hiss and no clear 'thud' suggests you need to recheck the wiring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brendan
23-08-2016, 10:43 PM
Did you tap them with something that magnets will stick to or something non conductive? The pickups are basically a small electromagnet working in reverse - pickup the vibration in the steel / etc within the strings. If you tap the pickup with something non conductive, there's nothing to change the magnetic field and give you the "thump".

icarus7681
14-09-2018, 07:59 PM
Thank Christ for that Gav... was seriously worried... the Perspex thing was a superb idea... saved all.. You seem pretty much all over this stuff... I could use your help finishing my twin neck if you could help.. I struggle to use this site, though very comp savvy... can you help please ? ... send a pic on here.. I have reduced them but they always get rejected... nah.. rejected again... reduced to thumbnail size...

icarus7681
14-09-2018, 07:59 PM
Oh some worked... cool

icarus7681
14-09-2018, 08:03 PM
I am in Hedland Gav... I will bloody well fly to you to make this baby play...

Gavin1393
14-09-2018, 10:29 PM
Hi mate, what seems to be the cause of most of the grief with the double neck?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Brendan
14-09-2018, 10:44 PM
Hi mate, what seems to be the cause of most of the grief with the double neck?
Hey - the Gavmeister is still around!

Gavin1393
14-09-2018, 10:58 PM
Of course mate. How’s the cycling going?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brendan
14-09-2018, 11:06 PM
Not at the moment bud. Have been a bit slack of late - note you're getting the k's in though!

fender3x
22-06-2019, 07:22 AM
FWIW, I made a tracing of the control layout on my ES4-B, and then made a PDF so that I could make copies that would be proportional. I'd be happy to share...is there a way to upload a PDF?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk