Geoffs ES1-GT

[baldrick]

Hi Folks and thanks for all the feedback from my post on the "welcome" forum about wiring. I consider myself to be a fairly accomplished swearer but it seems my repertoire might be stretched when I get the soldering iron out.

Thanks also to Adam and Dingo Bass for their help and advice about colours and particular thanks to DB for mixing up a custom Wudtone to match a shade he originally achieved by accident on the finished ES1 on the website.

So I have the kit, the Wudtone and lots of excitement. I've done a few things over the last few days and I'll put them in separate posts so I can add enough pictures.

Shaped the headstock, choosing a Gibson- style curve that I drew up in AutoCAD to make a template then band-sawed and belt-sanded. Entirely through chance the radius of the roller on the belt sander exactly matched the curve on the template, which made things simpler. A really light touch was needed on the sander and I think I went a little too heavy on one side as the result is not completely symmetrical but I'm happy with it.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/6pytf-IMG_0418.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/864k4-IMG_0429.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/do7q5-IMG_0430.JPG

[baldrick]

2 coats of Wudtone now on the neck. I know it's been said many times but that stuff really does go a long way. Even though I'd seen others' posts along the lines of "is that all?" when receiving their Wudtone I still had the same reaction. However, it seems to be amazingly concentrated. The first coat looked a bit streaky and patchy but settled out fine and, after a light steel wooling a a second coat the neck is starting to look golden rather than yellow and much more uniform in colour.

It's odd applying a finish to timber that hasn't been sanded to a fine grade. Every wood finish I've ever used produces better results if the surface prep is really fine first but I trusted the advice and undid my over-enthusiastic sanding by roughing it up a bit with 240-grit and the results seem fine. You can really feel the timber sucking up the finish but the second coat seems to sit on the surface much more, which I suppose is the whole idea. Looking forward to seeing how the top coats behave.

Got to go to work in a minute but here are some pictures and one question.

Question first: Anyone have opinions on Wudtone or other finishes on the fretboard? I've left it completely untouched so far.

More news soon on wiring and starting work on the body.




http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/xwzar-IMG_0438.JPG

[dingobass]

Hey Baldrick,

Nice work on the headstock. You have gotta love it when the tools used are an exact match for the shape :D

As for being symmetrical, I really wouldn't worry too much.
One of the beautiful things about hand made things is the fact that they are not perfect!

My personal philosophy when building, whether it is a kit or scratch built Guitar, is to deliberately not make everything perfect.
If I wanted perfect I would just go and buy a machine made axe from the music shop!

Look forward to seeing progress and enjoy the build.

[Gavin1393]

Quote from baldrick on March 28, 2013, 06:23
2 coats of Wudtone now on the neck. I know it's been said many times but that stuff really does go a long way.

Question first: Anyone have opinions on Wudtone or other finishes on the fretboard? I've left it completely untouched

On the subject of a little going a long way and what finish to use on your fretboard;

I use Ax wax available from most guitar shops. Just a drop or two on a polishing cloth andnit will bring up an ebony or rosewood fretboard beautifully!

[adam]

Looks great Baldrick. Yes, I hear the swearing really starts when you come to install the components through the f-holes. Our freind Gavin had a good tip using plastic tubing, perhaps we can get him to post some more details (and photos) on that little trick.

[baldrick]

Yes, I quite like the asymmetry. It's subtle and either no-one will notice except me or it will make it look hand-made. There's a lot to be said for "if you make a mistake, highlight it and claim it was deliberate". It wasn't really a mistake though - just how it turned out.

[Gavin1393]

Some pic's using Ax Wax.

Before
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/76dr6-image.jpg

ax Wax
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/351vt-image.jpg

After!!!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/ci7us-image.jpg

[baldrick]

Thanks for the hints on fretboard finishing. Also, even though I haven't got anywhere close to installing the pots, jack and switch, I'm beginning to suspect those apertures in the guitar are not called f-holes because of their shape. Got some of the soldering done in preparation for later. Pics coming up.

[baldrick]

Nice fretboard Gavin - that was straight on to the bare wood, was it?

[Gavin1393]

Quote from baldrick on March 28, 2013, 07:39
Thanks for the hints on fretboard finishing. Also, even though I haven't got anywhere close to installing the pots, jack and switch, I'm beginning to suspect those apertures in the guitar are not called f-holes because of their shape. Got some of the soldering done in preparation for later. Pics coming up.



Geoff!

One big lesson learned regarding the soldering. Pair the tone and volume controls up and use a longer shielded cable between the two 'sets' of volume and tone controls that you have made up. Also use a longer than necessary sheilded cable to connect to the output cable and the appropriate tone and volume pairing. Same applies to the three way switch and the other Tone and Volume pairing.

Yes, you will have a fair amount of neat wiring inside the cavity but being able to rip out the little fu..umm, gently remove the pots when there is unexpected hum to check on earth wires and whether or not they have detached themselves or the bastar.....umm, soldering has come apart and this is why there is no fu$&....no sound...you will thank me later!

[Gavin1393]

Quote from baldrick on March 28, 2013, 07:41
Nice fretboard Gavin - that was straight on to the bare wood, was it?

It was indeed, and is still shining like that now! It's a great product, but seriously, only a drop or two it spreads like Wudtone!

[Gavin1393]

Some pictures of my first attempt after reading up on how to do it by some poor soul who was either incredibly patient and persevering or enjoyed the odd swear word or ten.
I eventually figured there had to be a better way and marched off to Bunnings with the Pots to see if their clear tubing (irrigation section) would fit tightly enough over the Pot control to draw it through the holes of the ES. Fit beautifully and was an absolute pleasure to do from there. Just remember to draw through the Output first, the tubing fits inside the jack....then draw the lower tone and volume pair through, insert the three way switch by hand and then the upper tone and volume pots....

This is the reason why you have longer shielded wires as mentioned in my earlier post. Don't forget to earth the bridge! You may need to drill the hole to the chamber!

[Gavin1393]

Forgot to post the pics....here they are.

Don't do it this way!!! :P

To protect innocent cameras involved I'd removed the camera to a safe location so don't have pictures of the tubing!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/758q8-image.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/yg759-image.jpg

[baldrick]

Hello all. I've posted this on "General Support" so sorry if you end up reading it twice:



Hi Folks

I hope someone can help me as it's looking like I will have to cut a bit off my neck and I really don't want to do that without being fully informed.

I need to make the nut to 12th fret distance the same as the 12th fret to saddle distance and it looks like I can't do that with the saddle holes in their pre-drilled position. Here's the measurements (it's an ES1GT by the way):

Nut (fretboard-side edge) to middle of 12th fret: 313.5mm

Distances from 12th fret to saddle (middle of each) with the neck pushed in as far as it will go and the saddle adjusters screwed forward towards the bridge pickup as far as they will go (ie the string would be as as "short" as possible):

Low E: 321.5
A: 321
D: 320
G: 319
B: 318.5
HighE: 318

All in mm.

Here are the same measurements with the saddle adjusters wound back as far as they will go towards the tailpiece:

Low E: 327
A: 326
D: 325
G: 324
B: 324
HighE: 323.5

It seems to me that the neck needs to be shortened so that it will fit deeper into the neck pocket to get the 313.5mm between 12th fret and saddle. Am I missing something?

Also, I've got the saddle on with the adjusting screws towards the tailpiece. This won't get rid of the above problem but have I got it the right way around?

Thanks for any help.

One more thing: Stewmac's fret calculator give the following information for a 628mm scale length with tune-o-matic bridge: "629.539mm from nut to centre of treble-side [bridge-mounting] post. Mount bass-side post 1.5 - 3mm further from the nut". Currently I can't get this distance lower than 633mm, which also suggests that the neck needs trimming.

Looking forward to heaps of well-informed, experienced help as I'm itching to get this little beauty finished.

Cheers
Geoff ("Baldrick")

[Gavin1393]

Hi Geoff,

Check out your other post and you will find this link!

http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=42&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=253

And since you are getting close to finishing, unless you want to spend your entire weekend trying to threat those little bastar......little pots through those shi.....ty...little holes I suggest you read this thread....

http://pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=42&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=230

...or else....you too will end up in therapy with DB and myself before we discovered this little secret!