PDA

View Full Version : Step by Step Setting up your PitBull Guitar for Best Intonation



Gavin1393
20-03-2013, 07:46 PM
When you have your guitar strung up and tuned, you need to check the curvature of the neck. You may see on other websites that a gap of 1/64” (0.4mm) - 1/32” (0.8mm) is required…so what does that look like, especially if you don’t have an engineers rule or other measuring device? A standard credit card is about 0.65mm and standard business card is about 0.3mm. You can probably find these two things in your wallet or purse. Get them out and have them handy.
Pick up your guitar and hold it in the playing position. Put a capo or small clamp on the first fret (closest to the nut) to hold the string down. The string needs to be contacting the first metal fret. You can also have a friend hold down the low E string. Next, with your picking hand, hold down the low E string at the 17th fret. As you should see, the string forms a straight edge between the first and 17th frets.

There should be a slight gap between the E string and the 9th fret. If not, your neck has “back bow”, which we’ll address later. Still holding the string down, use your free hand and try to slide the business card under the E string right on top of the 9th fret. If it slides under the string without contact, try the credit card. If the credit card slides in without contact, try the two cards together. If this doesn’t make contact, your neck needs some work! Ideally, the business card should clear the string, but the credit card shouldn’t. If the credit card clears the fret and string with ease, we have some “bow”, or relief in the neck.

On most guitars, the same rule for truss rods holds true: Right is tight, left is loose. Looking at the truss rod adjustment on top of the neck near the tuners, the right/left arrangement is from the top of the neck looking toward the body of the guitar. If you have back bow, you need to loosen the truss rod, or turn the nut on the truss rod left. If you have bow, you need to tighten the truss rod, or turn the nut on the truss rod to the right.

As a technique, I always loosen the truss rod before I do any adjustment. If you start cranking the truss rod down, and it is already pretty tight, you may break it, and this is something you won't be able to fix at home in an afternoon. If you feel the least bit uncomfortable at this point, take your guitar to a repairperson/luthier.
There are generally two types of adjusters on truss rods: A nut for Gibson style truss rods, and a hex-head screw for just about everything else. The hex-head is most common on imported guitars. Make sure the hex-head driver that came with your guitar is well seated – you don’t want to strip it out, or again your have trouble on your hands. Generally about a ¼ turn is enough to move the neck. If you move it more than a full turn, you may have an issue.

Step Three: Check string height at the nut. A lot of the nut-work on import guitars leaves something to be desired. To check the height of the nut, start at the low E string, and fret it on the third fret (a “G” note). The string should be sitting on the first fret, or just above it. When I say “just above”, I mean close enough just to see some light through the gap between the string and the fret. Try holding the string down on the third fret and "tap" the string above the first fret, kind of like checking the neck relief. You should be able to press the string down just ever so slightly onto the first fret.

Try this procedure for all of the strings. If there is a big gap, your nut needs some work. Can you fix this? You can if you have some nut files. If you don’t you may need a repairperson to take a look at it for you. The height at the nut is critical to a good playing guitar. If it is too high, the string will be too low at the 12th fret, probably causing a nasty buzz and intonation problems.
Before you continue, take a look at your bridge -- we're heading there next. If you look at both bridges pictured below, you can see that the saddles on both are arranged similarly, with an adjustable saddle for each string.

Gibson-style Bridge
This bridge has six individually-adjustable saddles which are adjusted using the screws you can see at the bottom of the bridge facing the stop tailpiece. The screws have a slot head, requiring a flat-head screwdriver. On some guitars these screws face the other way (usually on the older or replica models).
If you have to adjust a saddle, place a soft cloth below where you're going to insert the tip of the screwdriver. This will help you avoid gouging the top of your guitar if you slip. Turn the screw clockwise to move the saddle back and counterclockwise to move it forward. Make small turns because a little turn can make a lot of difference. After every adjustment to the position of the saddle, retune the string to pitch and compare the 12th fret note and the open string. Repeat the operation until the string has the correct intonation, then move on to the next string.

Fender-style Bridge
Although the Fender bridge looks different, the principles of setting the intonation are exactly the same as a Gibson bridge. You move the saddles with an adjustment screw (in this case, a Phillips head screw) until the note at the 12th fret and the open string are the same.
Note: If these saddles are in a straight line, the guitar is probably not set up properly!
Step Four: Set the approximate positions of the string saddles on the bridge.

First, determine the scale of your guitar. Measure from the body-side of the nut to precisely over the 12th Fret. If you double this measurement, you have the scale of your guitar.
Using the distance from the nut to the 12th fret (we’ll call this measurement “x”), measure from the 12th fret to the bridge. Using the screws on the back of the saddle, set the individual saddles to the following specs:
Note: I find it is easier to make the initial adjustments with the strings loosened. Once you set the saddles, tune the guitar back to pitch.
Low E:
1/8” or 3.2mm longer than X
A:
1/16” or 1.6mm longer than X
D:
1/32” or0.8mm longer than X
G:
1/8” or 3.2mm longer than X
B:
1/16” or 1.6mm longer than X
High E:
1/32” or 0.8mm longer than X
We get the final settings once we get our saddle height, but this will get us close.

Step Five: Set string height at saddles.
Measure at the twelfth fret and set saddles so the height between the bottom of the low E string and the top of the twelfth fret is about 1/16" or 1.6mm. The High E should set just at 1/16” or 1.6mm, this is about two credit card widths above the 12th fret (we know you have at least two credit cards!). The other strings should be the same height, following the radius of the fretboard. This is easy with the Gibson bridge -- just crank it up and down, and the shape of the bridge conforms to the fingerboard in most cases. The Fender-style bridge has more adjustment range, and it may take a little more time to set it up.
Remember – This is a starting point to get your saddles set. Your playing style may make you either raise or lower the saddles. We’re just trying to get in the ballpark.

When you complete this, the saddles on your bridge should be somewhere in the middle of their adjustment range. If they are sitting flush on the body, or maxed out, your neck angle needs to be adjusted, and it may be best to get a qualified repairperson to complete this job for you.

Step Six: Fine tune the intonation setting with a tuner.
What we are going to do here is actually adjust the length of each string. This is the only way to make sure your guitar will play in tune all the way up the neck. You’ll need an electronic tuner for this job. You’ll need some small screwdrivers --flat tip or Phillips, depending on your bridge.
Follow these steps:
1. Hold the guitar in the playing position.
2. Hook up the electronic tuner and put it in a position where you can see it clearly.
3. Tune the entire guitar. Make sure you take your time and get it as precise as possible.
4. Start with the low E string. Play the string with a pick, and make sure it is in tune. Next, fret the string at the 12th fret, play the string, and check the tuning. It should show an E in tune.
5. If the note played at the 12th Fret is in tune like the open string, the string is properly intonated. If is isn’t continue to step 6.
6. If the note played at the 12th Fret is flat (below E), take your screwdriver and move the saddle toward the pickups. If the note was sharp (Above E), move the saddle away from the pickups. The General Rule: Flat = Forward
7. Continue this process until the open string and that same string fretted at the 12th fret are in perfect tune with each other.
8. Continue this process for all strings, and keep going back and checking the settings for each one.

keloooe
20-03-2013, 08:09 PM
That was a long article, but probably one of the best I've ever seen!!! Great work there Gavin!

adam
21-03-2013, 09:30 AM
Hey Gav, sorry it took me a while to respond to this, but I'm just so blown away by the effort you've put into it. I just hope that every one of our customers gets to read this.

I'm now thinking I might now someone who we can contract to write the Pit Bull Guitars Instruction Manual :D

Gavin1393
21-03-2013, 09:52 AM
Quote from adam on March 20, 2013, 18:30
Hey Gav, sorry it took me a while to respond to this, but I'm just so blown away by the effort you've put into it. I just hope that every one of our customers gets to read this.

I'm now thinking I might now someone who we can contract to write the Pit Bull Guitars Instruction Manual :D

Really! Who? ;)

SIMpleONe89
16-08-2013, 10:13 AM
Hi guys has anyone have had experience with nut filing without nut files? They are incredibly expensive! Some people said welding tip cleaners make good substitutes for nut filing. They are pretty cheap, but has anyone tried it before?

dingobass
16-08-2013, 11:02 AM
Mate, cheap equals crap results......
I know that nut files seem expensive, but they do last a lifetime so in the long run they are a good investment.

I have tried many alternatives and none of them give suitable results....

ihasmario
26-06-2014, 10:52 AM
Hey guys, my guitar is set up and it sounds as good or better than any guitar I have played. However, like every guitar I have played, the first few frets closest to the nut are sharp. The nut itself is as low as it can go and the action is good. Every other fret is in tune within 1 or 2 cents.

The first few frets are about 5 to 10 cents sharp, depending on what I play (how hard I press). I play acoustic, so I am probably over pressing a little, but even if I do it gently, the first few are still sharp.

It's really good, but I want to make sure it is perfect

Do I need to push the nut slots back?

x.yamaha
02-07-2014, 06:06 PM
ihasmario

If guitar has jumbo or large frets you are probably pushing down too hard. Ease off pressure and see how that goes. Push down string slowly just until note sounds. That is the pressure you are looking for. Even with nice low nut (see above for measurement) this can happen with jumbo frets. The idea behind jumbo frets is you don't need to push down as hard and your hand does not get as tired. It takes a while but a light touch with jumbo frets works better all over neck. Hope this helps.

x.yamaha
02-07-2014, 06:08 PM
Gents

The nut on first build LP 1 is too high across the board. Rather than using nut files has anyone tried to knock out the nut and sand down from the back?

ihasmario
02-07-2014, 09:37 PM
That's how I'd do it xyama

dingobass
02-07-2014, 10:50 PM
Wot Mario said.
But go steady, as it is all to easy to over do it!

Give it a few swipes on 120grit, check it and rinse and repeat :)

kells80aus
03-07-2014, 10:22 AM
Hmmm. I seem to be a dark horse here. I would never use 80 or 120 grit, UNLESS I had some serious Sh!t to fix, like a massive glue stripe across the heal of the body(refer Gypsy Dancer) generally I only use 240 Grit . If I have to use the De-Walt orbi then I'll use 180 grit, but only because thats as fine as Bunnings sells.
I am currently using 1500 grit on the "yellow"(refer Double Cut Juniors). In that case I am trying to achieve glass.... and I am this || close....

PK

xDruichii
22-05-2015, 08:48 PM
Hey guys trying to set the intonation. I'm moving the saddles back because it keeps playing sharp at the 12th fret but it doesn't seem to be helping too much. Any advice?

Pete Stanford
23-02-2016, 12:19 PM
G'day Gav, just trying to setup my Pitbull TL-1 (Telecaster). I've used all the standard included gear including of course the bridge. I have read and re-read your great article about setting intonation but I am a bit confused about one part.You explain about determining the scale of the guitar and thats all fine. Then you explain about the first initial intonation setting and you give specific measurements for each string eg: Low E 3.2mm longer than X, A @ 1.6mm longer than X etc. Thats fine if you have individual saddles for each string, but mine has one saddle for two strings ie Low E and A share a common saddle with only one adjustment screw. So how do I set mine?

wokkaboy
23-02-2016, 12:27 PM
Hi Pete, you need to compromise and get each pair of strings as closely intonated as possible.
As we said on your other thread please tell us or take a pic of the nut/string height from the side

robin
23-02-2016, 04:04 PM
Hi Pete, the internet has some very good articles on how to set the intonation of a standard Tele bridge. I can't recall them off the top of my head but Google is your friend.

Another alternative is to buy a set of compensated Tele saddles. They are a direct replacement for standard saddles but a they allow a bit more intonation adjustment.

Hope you get it sorted mate.

Raz
08-12-2016, 12:46 AM
Wow, thanks for that article! Just saved me at minimum $45 (USD). At least for right now/until I set aside enough for a full set up. Turns out the PBG I got (EXG-1) has some wicked back-bow. Nothing unexpected really when you base that is traveled across the globe, going through different climate changes.

I've followed these guidelines and everything plays better, even sounds better (acoustically a powerchord sounds more pleasant). However I'm noticing one troubling spot: The 12th/13th fret area on the "A" string. Horrible fret buzz, where as none of the other strings suffer from this. It's actually ONLY the 12th and 13th fret. Nothing further down the neck has that problem. Only remedy I've found would be to make the action unbearably high. What are the chances I did something wrong, made an oversight, or is it that it needs a fret dressing?

Simon Barden
08-12-2016, 05:55 AM
Sounds like a high fret to me Raz. If so, the only realistic way to cure it is to dress the fret causing the problem. It may be quicker and cheaper to take it for a proper set-up by a luthier. Tell them what the problem is and they should be able to do it fairly quickly without stoning and re-profiling all the frets. Otherwise you need to spend money on (or borrow from anyone you know who has the tools) a notched neck straight edge, so that you can get the fretboard as straight as you can to start with. Then you need a fretboard leveling file, to stone the frets flat. These are normally diamond files, so are very effective at cutting but don't make deep grooves in the frets. You can get long or short ones. Long ones are good for dealing with a whole fretboard-worth of frets, short ones for smaller problem areas. But it's important that they are long enough to bridge at least 3 or 4 frets so that only the high frets get filed off to start with. If you don't find any high frets, then the problem must lie elsewhere and it's back to adjusting the neck relief and bridge saddle heights.

With the fretboard flat, for a general stoning, mark all the tops of the frets with, with a black Sharpie (other permanent markers are available). Then start running the file up and down the frets. When all the black marks have gone from the tops of the frets, then stop. If you know that only one fret is proud, then you can file lengthways across the fret - but take it very gently and keep checking. Something like a credit card that can span at least three frets is useful for checking this - run it slowly up a flattened fretboard and on flat frets should lit it sit firmly, but if you find a single proud fret, it will teeter from side to side.

Then you need the third piece of specialised kit - a fret crowning file. These come in different radiuses to fit the size of fret fitted. 2.5mm is a fairly common size (and my file worked well on a Pit Bull neck recently). Run this backwards and forwards across each flattened fret a few times ( I tend to count ten forward and reverse strokes, but maybe a few more if the top of the fret was particularly flat) to put the roundness back into the frets. Then you need to smooth and polish the frets. Best done with something like a full set of Micromesh pads or strips, from 1500 up to 12000 grit. Run up through the grades, making sure with the coarser grits that any filing lines across the frets are removed (otherwise the strings will feel really scratchy when you bend them). It's best to use a metal fretboard protector that fits over each fret to stop you marking the fretboard when you do this (fourth piece of specialised kit). After you've done this, then I'd rub the frets with metal polish to get them really shiny (even the one's you haven't filed as it never does any harm to have really smooth frets). And after that. a general fretboard clean-up with lemon oil (on rosewood or ebony boards at least).

It takes a bit of time to do a whole board - a single fret is much quicker - but it's very rewarding once you've done it. Yes, the tools are quite expensive to buy in one go; but if you plan to build several kits, or fettle your own guitars in the future (or your friends), then they are a worthwhile investment. The cost of two professional fret stoning and re-profilings would probably cost more than the cost of the tools required.

And it isn't really difficult. I did it without any tutored instruction except from reading a few internet articles, a few YouTube videos and a bit of common sense.

dingobass
08-12-2016, 11:58 AM
But first I would check to make sure the fret is seated correctly.
Usually you will see a gap between the fret and the fingerboard.
If so, support the neck with either a sandbag (easy to make with a trouser leg and two zip ties) or a caul.
Then give the fret a few whacks (gently but firmly) with a hard plastic faced hammer.
If the fret bounces back out, you can wick some thin superglue under it and clamp it down.
Then it is a matter of cleaning up any excess glue by scraping with a razor blade.

Simon Barden
08-12-2016, 05:03 PM
Good point DB. Something I'd probably notice if looking at the neck in person, but I need to add it to my mental 'things to check first' list.

Raz
09-12-2016, 01:39 AM
Thanks for that direction, Simon. A little more than I'm capable of doing now, but it's always good to have a detailed reference for the future. And DB: There's a fair bit of sloppiness with the frets as a whole, but they look seated properly.
I'll see if I can find a luthier to do a quick set up and focus on that one little section...and not have it cost me an arm and a leg. (leg would be fine. I just need both arms for playing)

FrankenWashie
09-12-2016, 02:32 AM
Thanks for that direction, Simon. A little more than I'm capable of doing now, but it's always good to have a detailed reference for the future. And DB: There's a fair bit of sloppiness with the frets as a whole, but they look seated properly.
I'll see if I can find a luthier to do a quick set up and focus on that one little section...and not have it cost me an arm and a leg. (leg would be fine. I just need both arms for playing)
Make sure it's not the leg you rest your guitar on while playing seated. 😜

dave.king1
09-12-2016, 03:23 AM
With both my PB4-H and STA kits the truss rods were way over tightened out of the box and had to be relaxed quite a bit and let sit under tension before starting any setup.

DrNomis_44
14-12-2016, 05:03 PM
For those of you who have built, or are building, PBG kits that feature a Floyd Rose style Trem, here is a special tool that makes setting the intonation on each string a lot easier, this little device is called The Key, and you can order them online from Stewmac.com.

Here's what it looks like:

15761


Normally, when you go to set the intonation on a Floyd-equipped guitar, you usually have to keep pulling on the string anchor-bolt to prevent the string-saddle from sliding forward towards the neck when you loosen the saddle retainer screw, this makes it very hard to set the intonation accurately, with The Key tool, you no longer have to keep the saddle from sliding forwards, it does the job for you, and you are then able to set the intonation more accurately by turning the knurled knob positioned at the end of the tool.


http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Bridges/The_Key.html