Teleburster TL-1A aka G-special

[WeirdBits]

Hi guys,

I've finally got some time to start on my kits, so I guess it's time to start build diaries too.

I'm building this TL-1A kit and a LP-1SS. This one is the 'test' kit, mainly to try out the Wudtone finish etc., but I'm still treating the kit as a keeper... at least I hope it will be.

First step is a mock-up build just to get an idea what it will look like, make sure everything fits, and to spot any potential issues that I'll have to deal with *before* drilling holes or starting the finish etc. I'm swapping out some of the parts (bridge, tuners etc.) and making it a string through body, so I'm trying not to rush and stuff it up too much.

First things I've noticed:

1. The neck fit to the body is fantastic, very impressed.
2. Great looking wood for the body and neck, however there are quite a few spots with filler and glue.
3. The bridge pickup rout is a couple of mm's too small to fit my aftermarket tele pup, but the stock pup fits fine.
4. Neither the supplied pickguard or my aftermarket 5-holer are perfect fit with the bridge and control plate, so I'll be cutting some plastic as well.

Overall, I'm pretty happy. The quality of the kit has generally exceeded my expectations and I can't wait to really get into it.

Here are some quick pics:



http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/up187-IMG_20130227_145447_2sm.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/176ql-IMG_20130227_145611_2sm.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/5e985-IMG_20130227_145646_2sm.jpg

[WeirdBits]

As mentioned above, there are quite a few spots with filler and glue on the body... so looks like I be digging it out, sanding away and playing with some good ol' Timbermate.

A couple of the spots are on the back and under the pickguard, but others on the top will need more care to do the Wudtone justice. Pics:
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/9u7r7-IMG_20130227_145824_2sm.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/bk5dz-IMG_20130227_145802_2sm.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/17n46-IMG_20130227_145749_2sm.jpg

[WeirdBits]

There are also a couple of fill/glue spots on the high E edge of the fret board... not sure how I'll deal with them (pic below). I won't see them while playing but I don't want to feel them either.

Anyway, as I said, this build is mainly to test the Wudtone finish for my spaulted LP-1SS build... so below is a pic of the mockup virtually painted... the Teleburster TL-1A. Goldenrod front and back, with Black Magic Woman sides and edges with a Vintage Amber Neck.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/zoq66-IMG_20130227_152119_2sm.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/1ayl5-teleburster_TL1A_mockup_1_lg_2sm.jpg

[Gavin1393]

Might be an idea to try colour the Timbermate with the Wudtone before filling?

Judging by the pictures of the glue, i'd be determined to get rid of it as it will leave failry large patches as it will resist the Wudtone.

[wokkaboy]

Quote from Gavin1393 on March 1, 2013, 12:58
Might be an idea to try colour the Timbermate with the Wudtone before filling?

Judging by the pictures of the glue, i'd be determined to get rid of it as it will leave failry large patches as it will resist the Wudtone.

Hi Scott,
my friend Wayne got a TL-1TB kit and that has alot of filler on the side and bottom of the body and wudtone does not soak into filler or glue, take it from myself and Gavin have experienced glue problems near the binding on a PBG ES kit.
It really detracts from the wudtone look so I think Gavin's suggestion of colouring the filler could work better than trying to wudtone over dry filler

hope your spalted LP kit is immaculate, mine was, see February guitar of the month

good luck Scott, sounds like u know a fair bit about guitar builds

the paintshop of golden rod and black magic woman sunburst looks great, hope it can turn out similar to that

cheers Wokka

[WeirdBits]

Yep, sage advice guys, thanks.

I plan on experimenting a bit with the Timbermate and Wudtone... maybe even with some sawdust in the mix perhaps. It's mainly those two spots on the top that worry me as they'll be the most obvious.

This is actually my first ever build, so consider me a complete newb.

As such, any and all advice, criticism, and/or public ridicule will be appreciated... and maybe even accepted after I've stuffed something up ;)

[GlennGP]

From one complete noob to another, you could hope for the sort of good luck I had with the fill spots on my TL-1 - they were each no more than a mil deep, and I was able to sand back to smooth having removed the fill. If your fill is not too deep and you're willing to put in the work, you can avoid the whole Timbermate thing.

Good luck - I love the colour-scheme!

[adam]

Hi WeirdBits, welcome to our humble community.

I have to say that I really dig your virtual paint jobs... is that just in Photoshop? It's a great idea and one that I might steal, err borrow.

I'm also pleased reading your first few posts that you understand that these kits do come with some flaws, which is expected in this price range, but nothing that is beyond the skill of the average chippy (or experienced kit builder).

For everyone's information, we've asked the factory to NOT fill any dings or dents with their wood filler, I think everyone here would prefer to sand out the dings or use their own filler. Yes, I know we'd all prefer no dings at all, but I'm afraid that's just the nature of these kits.

I'm really looking forward to seeing the guitars you put together.

[WeirdBits]

Quote from adam on March 1, 2013, 17:23
...
I have to say that I really dig your virtual paint jobs... is that just in Photoshop? It's a great idea and one that I might steal, err borrow.

I'm also pleased reading your first few posts that you understand that these kits do come with some flaws, which is expected in this price range, but nothing that is beyond the skill of the average chippy (or experienced kit builder).
...


G'day Adam,

Photoshop or any graphics program that has layers and opacity capabilities could be used. For my 'virtual paint jobs' above and in my LP-1SS posts I actually used GIMP (GNU image Manipulation Program) on a Linux install, but I could have easily fired up Photoshop instead. I just created different layers from various parts of the base photo, then added colour, filters/effects, and opacity adjustments until I got something close to what I wanted. It was a bit of a rough job, so the colours and grain contrasts aren't quite at the standard that I wanted... but it was more just to get an idea of how things would look.

Regarding the filler/glue/imperfections, I fully expected to be dealing with things like that when I ordered the kits. To me, that becomes the difference between 'assembling' something and 'building' it... I prefer the latter, so I'm happy. I decided to post photos of the filler and glue marks to show other builders the type of things to look out for and, hopefully, how a newbie can deal with them and produce a beautiful looking guitar. At least, that's the plan ;)

As I said in my first post, the kits have so far exceeded my expectations... especially the LP-1SS. I'm a happy customer.

[keloooe]

Hey Scott, I use Paint.Net to do my editing, it's basically Paint.Net but with a different interface! And it's funny how you can't decide on what to do in terms of Wudtone for the splalted maple LP!!!

[WeirdBits]

Well, today I bit the bullet and decided to see just how deep the rabbit hole(s) went...

And the answer to the question of whether I could simply sand out the filled marks is: definitely not.

I started by carefully scraping away at the top of the filler, but soon realised it was more than just a surface fill. It turns out that all of the fill holes are pretty deep, with the factory filler varying from really rock hard to crusty on top and powdery underneath. Either way, it had to be removed. And the bonus is, I didn't spend hours sanding only to find I wouldn't be able to sand them out anyway. Bright side, bright side.

The fact that all of the holes are about the same depth also means it will probably be the same solution for all, rather than sanding out some, filling others, and/or worst case... plugging. At the moment, I still think that Timbermate is probably going to be my best option if I want to use Wudtone, so I'm going to do some tests over next day or two. Maybe try straight Timbermate, mixed with Wudtone, and mixed with sawdust options etc. However, if anyone has some suggestions, please let me know.

Here are the pics of the de-filled holes. The first set are all of the holes on the upper-bout/top, and the second set show the holes on the lower side, back and inside cutaway respectively.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/54y40-TL1A_fill_holes_1_md.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/m0r27-TL1A_fill_holes_2_md.jpg

[keloooe]

$#!+ that's deep!!! Now I feel like checking how deep my fill holes are...

[WeirdBits]

Glenn's gorgeous Goldenrod Tele inspired me to steal the image and pervert it into my own twisted dreams of a Goldenrod burst... hope you don't mind, Glenn ;)

Basically, I just did some cut-outs and perspective tweaks so that I could insert it into my original mock-up. The grain is obviously different to my kit, but that beautiful Goldenrod colour is much closer to what I would like to achieve with mine, filler permitting.


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/co4pi-teleburster_TL1A_mockup_2_lg.jpg

[adam]

Just want the Forum members to know that WeirdBits' TL-1A is clearly a faulty product and is certainly eligible for return and refund. We've contacted him about this by email.

As I keep saying, there's a fine balance between what we (as customers) should accept (in consideration of the pricing on these kits) and what clearly should never have left the factory. DingoBass and I feel WeirdBits' TL-1A fits the latter category.

So, if you do receive something that you think is just not up to scratch, please don't hesitate to contact myself or DB. Sometimes we might say, "Call yourself a Luthier? That's easily fixed", other times, like on this occasion, we'll ask you to return for replacement or full refund.

[GlennGP]

Quote from WeirdBits on March 2, 2013, 21:31
Glenn's gorgeous Goldenrod Tele inspired me to steal the image and pervert it into my own twisted dreams of a Goldenrod burst... hope you don't mind, Glenn ;)

Not at all - looks very cool!

[WeirdBits]

Ok, time for an update…

First, I need to thank Adam and the Pitbull team for their fantastic proactive service regarding the filler issues with my kit, and the subsequent generous and considerate alternatives offered to resolve the situation. Really great service guys, thanks. As this kit was always going to be my 'test build' and something of an experiment, and because I'm rather stubborn, I chose to continue with the build and see what I could produce… and gain some experience doing it.

You may recall from earlier posts that there was factory filler covering up some pretty significant holes in the body. Well, it turns out they were worm holes… as evidenced by the rather large wires I was able to feed right through the body in one hole and out the other (see pics below)! I guess that's proof that wormholes do exist. And, sadly, as good as Timbermate is, it simply wasn't going to cut it for anything resembling a semi-transparent finish. So, plan B has become to use a solid colour finish (not a horrible idea and may still happen), but for now I'm still going to try for the 'burst and see what happens. As such, I've opted for a two-stage process:

1. Drill out the worm holes to remove all traces of gunk and then plug them with hardwood dowel (the dowel is only to plug the worm path through the body).
2. Carve some cross-grain pseudo-grain matched plugs to then 'cap' the holes and hopefully sort of 'blend' somewhat with the Alder of the body.


Ok, first set of pics are the worm holes and the wire through them… nasty. Second set of pics shows the holes drilled out and doweled. Last set shows the nasty, knotty, crumbling holes on the lower edge of the body drilled out and a 'cap' glued in.


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/mk463-TL-1A_worm_holes_wire.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/75v1m-TL-1A_worm_holes_dowel.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/crksl-TL-1A_lower_knot_plugging.jpg

[WeirdBits]

Ok, first set shows all the dowels in place. Second set shows the dowels trimmed and holes drilled for the cosmetic 'cap' plugs. And, finally, the pseudo-grain matched plugs in glued in place.



http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/rp24k-TL-1A_worm_pegged.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/a0yo6-TL-1A_cosmetic_plug_holes.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/9zi23-TL-1A_cosmetic_plugs.jpg

[WeirdBits]

Ok, this series shows all the cosmetic 'cap' plugs trimmed and rough sanded… no filler has been used as yet. I'm not sure how it's going to end up, but I'm reasonably pleased so far. Just have to wait and see once it is all sanded and has some finish on it.


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/w60mr-TL-1A_cosmetic_plugged_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/ia2db-TL-1A_cosmetic_plugged_2.jpg

[WeirdBits]

And, just for good measure… I spent some time shaping the headstock. It's based on a '62 Tele shape, but with a few tweaks, only roughly sanded so far.

Tried some fret levelling as well, so I'll post that up in Gav's thread in the "Setting up..." section.

The story will continue...




http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/37y0z-TL-1A_headstock_shaped_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/je5h2-TL-1A_headstock_shaped_2.jpg

[Gavin1393]

Really good job! Lots of patience and perseverance.

[pablopepper]

Wow. There is some serious work going on here. The caps and the headstock look great.

[adam]

Weird Bits, it's absolutely amazing what you've done with this kit.

[dingobass]

Go straight to the top of the class, Weirdbits!

Just shows what can be done with patience and perseverance.

Folks, there is ALWAYS a work around, Weirdbits has just proven me right 8-)

[WeirdBits]

Well, the delivery I was waiting on didn't show up so I couldn't do what I planned to do… so all that was left was to do something reckless.

The neck fit was quite snug in body of this kit, but the bottom of the neck pocket itself was pretty rough with a deep gouge and undulating machine marks. So, although the fit was good the contact patch to the body wasn't great… and it was bugging me. Sanding wasn't going to be enough so that left only one option… doing something stupid and reckless that could potentially ruin the body. Re-rout the neck pocket! Well, this is my experimental build, so I guess go big or go home, right?

First, a warning: Don't try this! I mean, really, DO NOT try this! So many things could go wrong and it could ruin your beautiful Pitbull kit.

Ignoring such wise advice I started by filling the deep gouge with Timbermate so that once it was dry I would have a nice contrast to the wood so I could see how the smoothing was progressing. Next, I needed something to do the routing. In the first set of images below I present to you the patented WeirdBits' neck pocket fixerupper smoothing/ruining routing rig. The rig consists of a Dremel reaming bit in an electric drill mounted in a stand/press with the mount reversed and locked, an aluminium sheet slide bed, loads of clamps, and sheets of non-stick baking paper to allow the guitar body to slide freely. Jealous, aren't you? ;)

After some careful measurement, a straight-edge, lots of eyeballing and umming and ahhing it was eventually revealed that the neck pocket had an almost imperceptible angle to it that I going to have to take into account with my re-routing (this was one of those things that could go horribly wrong). A little packing (about 3mm) attached to the back of the guitar body behind the neck pocket angled the body to the routing rig enough to match the existing neck pocket angle (fingers crossed). I couldn't afford to remove too much material from the pocket or else the neck would sit too low in the body. As such, I set the router to take the smallest amount of material possible with each pass (I had to manually adjust it each time), took a deep breath, and started. What followed were three extremely nerve-wracking and scary passes over the neck pocket, where it always seemed to be taking off way more than I intended, and every moment I was terrified I was going to $#&* it up.

In the end I stopped after three passes as I couldn't risk taking any more wood away. The neck now sits a couple of mm's lower into the body, but the alignment looks good and after doing some string and straight edge tests looks like it's at a good angle for the saddle heights <sigh of relief, for now>. I wasn't able to get rid of the gouge in the pocket completely, there's still a hint of the Timbermate there, but all of the other marks and undulations are gone and it looks pretty damn smooth. A much better contact point for the neck.

The second set of pics below are the (rather poor quality) before shots of the neck pocket. I played with the contrast to try to get all the gouges and undulations to show, but they really aren't coming though in the image. It was a lot worse than it looks here. The last set of pics are the after shots, with my smooth, even, and almost gouge-free neck pocket.

I'm still not entirely happy, and the routing wasn't perfect, but at least I didn't destroy the body (at least, I don't think I did). Would I do it again? Probably… not. Too nerve wracking.


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/14dak-TL-1A_neck_pocket_routing_rig.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/ioc77-TL-1A_neck_pocket_gouge.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/n1449-TL-1A_neck_pocket_smoothed.jpg

[WeirdBits]

The experiment continues… this time it's a neck plate recess. I mean, every bolt-on deserves recessed neck plate, right? It's probably unwise to try, but, hey, it's an experimental project.

Usual warning: attempting this could ruin your Pitbull kit and make you very sad. If you do decide to try it, be very careful about the depth of the recess and the length of your neck mount screws!

My Dremel was going to be doing the routing so the first thing I did was make a template/guide to match the bit and mount I would be using. I then did a test on a bit of pine and tweaked the template with some strategically placed tape to smooth out a couple of spots and did another test before I was happy with the fit for the neck plate. The next step was the point of no return. I put the neck plate in position on the body, used a sharp hobby knife to score around it to get a clean cut on the grain and minimise tearing, then clamped the template in place around the neck plate. After removing the neck plate I was ready to start (carefully) routing.

I did a half-depth rout on the first pass. Then I set the depth to the full thickness of the neck plate, reduced it slightly to allow for clean up and sanding, and made the final pass. I made a small sanding block with corners that matched the rout, stuck on some 180 grit, and smoothed out the base of the rout. I used a combination of the block and the hobby knife to tidy up the edges and fine tune the final fit of the neck plate. In the end, it actually turned out better than I hoped. Once I've done the final sanding of the body the depth of the plate in the recess should be just what I was aiming for (I think).

Ok, the pics…

First set images show: a) The Dremel, template, neck plate and initial pine test rout. b) Template in position around neck plate. c) Template clamped and neck plate removed ready for routing.
Second set shows the results of the routing and clean up in progress.
Third set set shows the finished product after sanding and clean up!



http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/53p77-TL-1A_neck_plate_recess_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/c9ol5-TL-1A_neck_plate_recess_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/9f608-TL-1A_neck_plate_recess_3.jpg

[adam]

Wow, that's impressive. What's the benefit with doing this? Is it purely aesthetic, or is there a playability factor?

[dingobass]

Hey Weirdbits,

Great to see some experimentation :D

Don't go too crazy routing bits out of the body though! 8-)

[Gavin1393]

Nice work! Very brave too!

[WeirdBits]

I think 'too crazy' may already be in the rear view mirror, DB. But, I'm not planning on doing too much more to this kit... maybe.

Adam, it's partly aesthetics, partly feel and partly to just see if I could do it.

[dingobass]

There are three good reasons :D

[keloooe]

The DB of neck joints is here!!! Brave stuff WeirdBits!!!

[GlennGP]

Quote from WeirdBits on April 1, 2013, 20:24

I think 'too crazy' may already be in the rear view mirror, DB.

Ba-HA! It's been all short-breathed admiration from here, Weirdy!


Quote from WeirdBits on April 1, 2013, 20:24

But, I'm not planning on doing too much more to this kit... maybe.

Adam, it's partly aesthetics, partly feel and partly to just see if I could do it.



Like DB said, those are some pretty good reasons! Just keep knocking on wood whenever you get a bright idea!

[WeirdBits]

String-Thru Time!

(part 1 of 2)

I always planned on making this build a string-through-body, but it's also the process I was most nervous about. It needs to be done very accurately, and for that you need the right tools… which I don't really have. Getting it wrong would be very, very bad and most likely pretty damn ugly. It was going to be a challenge.

First up, I lined up, drilled and bolted on the neck, as I wanted to make sure it was in position and fixed before I started to position the bridge and string-thru holes. I used a fishing line centre line strung up just above the neck and running above the body (it's best to used a dark fishing line). This allowed me to position the neck accurately in relation to the body before clamping and drilling the neck mount holes, and later mark my actual centre line on the body. For anyone else using this method, make sure you actually measure the mid-line of the neck at various points and position the fishing line over those mid-points, as the dot inlays may not all be exactly symmetrical and aligned with the centre of the neck (see first image below).

Once I had my neck on and centre line marked I measured out the scale and began to position the bridge. This has to be right so I took a lot of time, checked and re-checked, then checked again. By running a piece of wood over the bridge and clamping it in place I could do all of my measurements without risk of it moving, before tweaking the position, re-clamping and re-measuring. My 600mm steel rule was invaluable at this stage to not only get the scale accurate but also ensure the bridge was square and aligned accurately around the centre-line (first image set, below). I also ran two additional lengths of fishing line as the high and low E strings, hooked into their respective nut slots and over their bridge saddles. This allowed me to check the string runs along the edge of the fretboard and helped with the final tweaking of the bridge position. Once I was happy I marked everything and then doubled checked again with the bridge removed (single, second image below).

Now the hard part. My drill press doesn't have a deep enough mouth to accommodate the guitar body to drill the holes… which means accuracy is very much an issue. I could have maybe modified the press to give me a slightly deeper reach, perhaps, but that would have put its accuracy and consistency at risk. Instead, I decided to try to create some templates/guides that would provide enough accuracy and consistency to get the job done. Unfortunately, I only have a standard length 2.5mm drill bit for the string-thru holes, so that limited how thick my guide could be. I made one template for the bridge mounting and string-thru holes, and another (much thicker) template for the string ferrule holes/recesses. I then did several tests drilling string-thru holes on some wood the same thickness as the guitar body and then using the string ferrule template until I was happy with the result (see last set of images below, including the results of a ferrule hole test).

To be continued...


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/aj696-TL-1A_positioning_bridge_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/9q1ao-TL-1A_positioning_bridge_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/43kyk-TL-1A_string_thru_1.jpg

[WeirdBits]

String-Thru Time!

(part 2 of 2)

Now the really hard part.

I drilled the outside two bridge mount holes which then allowed me to screw and clamp my template in position on the body. I drilled the other two mount holes, screwed them in too, and then carefully drilled the string-thru holes halfway through the body. I then removed the template and drilled ONLY the two E string holes all the way through the body, the middle four string holes were left only halfway through. Why, next...

I flipped the body over and there were the holes for the two E strings. There are two reasons I only drilled those two holes all the way through:
Templates like this will always have some inaccuracy which is amplified the further you drill… stopping halfway helps to minimise the variance.
The brad point bit for the ferrule holes tends to follow existing holes, regardless of your template, so it's better to drill the ferrule holes on an unbroken surface (you still need the E string holes to actually align the template, so it's a trade off).
A couple of wooden skewers helped to align the ferrule template with the E string holes, I checked and re-checked then clamped. I then measured how deep the ferrules would need to be, added the thickness of the template, added the depth of a rout I was going to add (I prefer the ferrules recessed into the body) and used a length of tubing over the bit to set that depth (see inset image, first sequence of images below). Even the slightest variation in the alignment of the ferrule holes makes the result look horrible, so I was well and truly soiling myself at this point (no pictures, sorry).

Now the really, really hard part.

I drilled each ferrule hole as carefully as I could and then removed to template to check the result… not too bad. I did a partial push in of the ferrules to check the alignment, and I was reasonably pleased (see second set of images below). I then positioned and clamped my string through template on the back of the body, with the same orientation as it was on the top of the guitar. That is, the high E was still positioned as the high E but what was the top of the template was now against the back of the body. This was for consistency and to, hopefully, increase the chance of the holes connecting. I then drilled the middle four string holes halfway again… and they joined up! Whew! I then got out my Dremel again and did the rout for the ferrule recess. It ended up being about 1mm deeper than I planned, but I'm fine with that.

The result… I now have a string through body (final set of images below)!. Once I start sanding I think I'll put a bevelled edge on the ferrule rout. Overall, I'm reasonably pleased. It's certainly not perfect, but not too bad as a first attempt at a string-thru sans honking great drill press. Don't worry, DB, that's the last of the routing on this body ;)


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/g8k3b-TL-1A_string_thru_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/y499q-TL-1A_string_thru_3.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/1n2f8-TL-1A_string_thru_4.jpg

[dingobass]

Nice work Weirdy :D

I too like the string ferrules to be recessed so no arguments from me!

Sooooooo glad I have a big arsed drill press, makes life easy when I see how you accomplished this.

most folk would just attack it with the cordless drill and hope for the best, nice to see you thinking it through and the results show how worthwhile it is to nut things out first. 8O

[pablopepper]

This is definitely my favourite build thread atm. Who knows what will happen next?

This is some really fun stuff Weirdbits. Keep it up!

[Gavin1393]

Echo DB, really excellent work sans drill press.....

[robin]

Wow Scott, inspirational stuff.

This thread gives me confidence to keep going. I bet when you started this build you had no idea how epic it would turn out ;)

cheers
rob

[keloooe]

Wow... just wow... This build is going to be fan-friggen-awesome when its done!

[WeirdBits]

Quote from robin on April 6, 2013, 06:59
[...] This thread gives me confidence to keep going. [...]

High praise indeed, thanks Robin, and thanks to everyone for your comments and encouragement. It has certainly turned into a far more extensive build than I originally envisioned, but I'm gaining lots of experience which is what I wanted from this kit as a first build.

Hopefully, I will finally be able to start applying (and experimenting with) the Wudtone finish in the next couple of days... I guess then we'll really see how well my worm hole repairs have turnd out. And, while that is drying I'll be able to get to work on my other kits.

[keloooe]

Everyone, note the word Hopefully there... :)
Yea, you should start the Wudtone soon, going to look great!

[WeirdBits]

Things haven't quite gone to plan since my last update.

My father's health declined dramatically and after three difficult weeks in hospital he sadly passed at the start of last week. So, as you can imagine, my amateur lutherie has been rather low priority over the past month. That being said, I did still plod on with the build when I could as it actually helped take my mind off things. The build has also taken on a new aspect now, as it is the one and only my father ever got to see me working on… so, I think I'd like to do some sort of tribute to him on the headstock. Not exactly sure what and how just yet, I'm still ruminating on ideas, but I've got something in mind. I'm also more determined than ever to see this build through to completion and to produce a quality instrument.

I've been taking pics of what I've been doing in the build, just haven't got around to posting, so this will be a four part update (I think). I've also sort of had to push things along a bit over the last few days as well, as with everything that's happened with this build it now means that all of my Wudtone is already over 2 months old and I'm worried it'll go bad before I can use it.

First off, I wasn't happy with the fit of any of the pickguards I had, both from the kit and after-market, so I decided to cut my own custom one (I'll be making a custom pickguard for a later build anyway, so it would be good practice for that). For those thinking about making their own pickguards… let me tell you, it's actually a lot harder that you may think. I mean, hacking out a shape from plastic is easy, but doing it extremely accurately, with nice even curves that fit snugly with other parts - that's not so easy, no matter how careful you are.

So, I first made an oversized standard pickguard template out of paper, then trimmed/tweaked it to fit the guitar the way I wanted (tighter fit around the bridge, slightly extended in other places). I then used that paper template to cut out a plywood template that I could then use as a router guide to cut the actual pickguard (and yes, I did think "hmm… plywood pickguard… maybe... nah". Anyway, it's still not as easy as it sounds. Tools used: hobby knife, jigsaw, hacksaw, router, rasp, files, sandpaper… and a, frequently repeated, choice selection of profanity. The end result is ok, with a pretty good fit all round, so I'm reasonably pleased. I haven't put the bevel on the edge as yet. Cutting the neck pickup slot was probably the most frustrating aspect, and I'm still not completely satisfied with the result. Once I was happy that everything fit I put it all in place and then marked and drilled all the screw holes.

Pics:


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/24agt-TL-1A_custom_pickguard_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/211gj-TL-1A_custom_pickguard_2.jpg

[WeirdBits]

In my quest to get all holes drilled etc. before starting the finish, the next step was the machine heads.

First step was to mount them loosely in the headstock then make sure the bodies of all the tuners lined up and were square before tightening. A straight edge/ruler along the the actual tuner bodies and along the tuner posts helps with the alignment, and a cheap plastic right angle aids in getting the winders square (see first set of pics). Second set of pics shows using the straight edge to check the alignment of the screw mounts (before drilling) and that the spacing between the tuner keys are all about right.

Last set of pics shows the tuners in place with screws in and, just for fun, a quick stringing with fishing line just to check that everything lines up like it should


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/hj9gn-TL-1A_machine_heads_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/xh39d-TL-1A_machine_heads_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/z978s-TL-1A_machine_heads_3.jpg

[WeirdBits]

Ok, all holes have been drilled, all worm holes have been plugged and capped in an attempt to hide them, all excessive (unwise and unnecessary) routing has been done…

I mixed up a bit of Timbermate (40% Maple, 60% Pine) into a semi-matching colour to fill a couple of small spots on the back and put a smear over all the wormhole plugs etc. to help them blend a little better. Then, I went through the grades of 180, 220 and 240 sandpaper to get a nice, smooth surface and put a beautiful rounded edge around the body. Ready for my Wudtone, assuming it's still usable (see first set of pics).

To apply said Wudtone, I devised the WeirdBits 'Wudtone Application Contraption' (PAF)… which consists of a contoured short pseudo-neck body holder (allowing access around the neck pocket), and a rotatable vice or bench-mounted socket for the aforementioned pseudo-neck. Basically, you mount the neck/holder in the neck pocket and then it slots in and locks into the socket, so the body is then supported while you apply your Wudtone and can be rotated as needed (2nd and 3rd set of pics). Not perfect, but it actually seems to work ok. I've got a similar holder for the neck as well, so it can slot in and be rotated the same way,

Pics:


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/8w3am-TL-1A_wudtone_ready_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/p3ugk-TL-1A_wudtone_ready_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/385h4-TL-1A_wudtone_ready_3.jpg

[WeirdBits]

Wudtone time… at last! Finally time to put some colour on this thing.

You may recall this is the Teleburster, with a Black Magic Woman and Goldenrod 'burst (front and back). This means I have a Deep Colour coat with the BMW but only Base Colour with the Goldenrod, not the usual format for a Wudtone burst. So, my plan is to do the BMW Deep Colour coat, give it a couple of days to dry (hopefully 3 days will be enough) then feather the edges with steel wool (or maybe a fine sanding) but not steel wool the sides, then repeat with another coat. The idea is to get a really dark black on the sides with a feathered edge for the burst that extends in slightly further with each coat. I'm aiming for the final feathered edge to fade completely at ~3/4" after 2-3 Deep Colour coats.

Then, if all goes well, I'll do the normal Wudtone-style 'burst procedure with the Base Colour coats for the BMW and Goldenrod… at least, that's the plan.

I did the first Deep Colour coat today, took me ages as I was trying to be very careful. The wood for the wormhole repair plugs took far less colour than the body's Alder, as expected, so I ended up treating it like a repair and 'dabbing' the colour on a bit more over those spots to try to get more colour in and help them blend. I'll just have to see how it goes. The sides generally took the colour pretty well, although some grain spots took far less colour than other areas. I'm planning on maybe 3 Deep Colour coats in total, but I'll have to wait and see how it looks when it's dry. Originally, I planned on doing a Vintage Amber neck, but now with the tribute stuff I think I may go traditional with a Goldenrod-style yellowy neck… so I may be shopping for some more Wudtone neck finishes.

Deep Colour crime scene photos below:


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/50420-TL-1A_bmw_deep_colour_1a.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/ae5dq-TL-1A_bmw_deep_colour_1b.jpg

[dingobass]

Hey Weirdy,

Condolences on the passing of your Dad.

Looking good mate, I am quite impressed with your efforts with this build.

With the deep colour coats of BMW, it is best if you don't steel wool between coats. This allows better penetration of the colour and will give you a more even cover.

[Gavin1393]

Hey WeirdBits!

I'm really sorry to hear about your dad passing on. I expect though that your love for him will spur you on to making this guitar something special.

In terms of the BMW, i tried pretty much exactly the combination you are planning on. Except I thought i'd get the grain to really 'pop' by applying the deep colour to the whole of the guitar and then sanding it back. When applying the GoldenRod to the top I was never happy with the result so I started over! Eventually did the whole guitar body in BMW but kept the idea of the 'burst' to hide the imperfections caused by a very thin flamed maple cap! i think you are going to get a far superior result to this.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/6ugxd-IMGP2342.JPG
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/1227x-IMGP2344.JPG

[stui]

Hey Scott, condolences over your Dads's passing, losing a loved one is never easy.
Your tele is really starting to take shape now, really looking forward to the end result. I'm sure it would make your dad proud.

[keloooe]

Hey Scott, hope you guys are still going strong!!!
For the neck, I am using Original Vintage Yellow, see the pic below, looks really nice even though there's only 1 coat!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/ba0jt-image.jpg

[Brendan]

Scott, sorry to hear about your Dad. I can understand that it's not been a priority with everything else going on.

Looking through your build diary, you seem to be putting heaps of effort in and I'm sure it will pay dividends - looking great so far!

[robin]

Hi Scott,

I am so sorry to hear of the passing of you Dad. I feel your pain as my beloved wife of 40 years passed away last year and for me building my Kit has been cheaper and better than therapy.

Like you, I have in a small way dedicated this build to my wife as it bears her name on the Headstock.

I hope you get through this very difficult time, and I am sure you will have a guitar that your Dad would have been proud to see his name on.

God Bless mate and hang in there
rob.

[WeirdBits]

Thank you for the kind words everyone.

Time for the second Deep Colour coat. I started to feather the edge with steel wool, but it just wasn't cutting it so I ended up switching to sandpaper. I just caressed the edge very lightly with 400 grit paper and then gave it a rub with the 0000 steel wool to help smooth it out, and it seems to have worked ok (see first set of pics). I then applied as much Deep Colour to the sides as they would take, and then did a very dry rub on the edge/border to the top and back to take it in about 3/4". After that I repeated the process with a wetter rub but only going in about 1/2", which helped to darken the edge and blend it with the previous coat (2nd and 3rd sets of pics).

I think the process is kind of going well, but I won't really know until I get onto the Base coats. The plug repairs will probably need a bit of a rub with steel wool to smooth out the colour blending a bit, which I'll probably do once this coat is dry. After that it will be a third Deep Colour coat, and then some time to dry before starting on the Base coats and the Goldenrod burst.


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/6014t-TL-1A_bmw_deep_colour_2a.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/tvj9n-TL-1A_bmw_deep_colour_2b.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/479wn-TL-1A_bmw_deep_colour_2c.jpg

[keloooe]

Looks great there Scott!!!
We both have similar colour schemes going on here, except I am using Dark Onyx as the dark colour, I'm doing a REVERSE burst, and I have something kinda neat up my sleeves that should wow everyone....

[WeirdBits]

Originally I was only going to do 3 Deep Colour coats, but after giving the worm hole repairs a bit of a steel wool after the second coat and applying the third coat I wasn't really happy with the results. So, I did a dap/touch-up on the repairs with a bit more deep colour the next day (Sat) and then today did the 4th and what I hope will be the final Deep Colour coat. I'm much happier with the way the repairs are blending, and think they'll blend even more once I start the Base Coats (plan is for next weekend).

First set of pics show the nice overall deep colour forming. Second set of pics show how two of the repair areas are blending, with the arrows pointing to roughly where the repair plugs are.


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/93a7q-TL-1A_bmw_deep_colour_4a.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/p614w-TL-1A_bmw_deep_colour_4b.jpg

[glenno3228]

Hi Scott. Condolences for your loss.

Regarding your first build, fantastic stuff. Given the circumstances, maybe the name "perseverance" is fitting for this particular tele!

Cheers
Glenn

[Brendan]

Scott - nice job - just noticed - one of the spots will be obscured by your strap. Should be a beaut of a guitar!

[WeirdBits]

Well, the last deep colour coat has been drying for a week, so at last, finally, it's time for the base colours and some 'bursty goodness… hopefully.

Again, I started by feathering the edge of the last deep colour coat with 400 grit and then gave it all a light rub with 0000 steel wool. To make it a little easier to manage the body while applying the colour, I gave it a prostate exam with a piece of broom handle (see first set of pics). I then applied the Black Magic Woman base colour to the sides and a dryish band about 1cm in on the top and back, then switched to the Goldenrod base colour and ran that up to the BMW band. Next, I started blending the edge, first with Goldenrod and then some BMW. The colours are starting to come up ok, but it's going to take a bit of work to get the feathered edges to blend into a nice burst transition (2nd and 3rd sets of pics). The feathering on the edge still looks a little 'scratchy' at the moment, but I think it will improve with more coats and as my blending technique gets better. Not sure if I'm happy with the result as yet, will have to wait to see after a few more coats.


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/zib71-TL-1A_base_colour_1a.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/h1st7-TL-1A_base_colour_1b.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/edod3-TL-1A_base_colour_1c.jpg

[dingobass]

Keep at it Weirdy, it will get better with every coat.

I like the way you are approaching this Sunburst, it is nice and subtle

[keloooe]

Oh wow, that is a great burst!!! Noice and subtle, makes it different from other bursts!

[WeirdBits]

Base coats 2, 3 and 4 of 'bursty goodness went on this week (base coat 4 today), shown in the image sets below, respectively. Apologies for the flash glare in the images, but it's indoors with mainly artificial light and the flash is necessary to get something close to the actual colour of the body to appear (each set were taken just after I finished the coat). You may not really see it in the images, there is a distinct improvement with each coat for both colours. The Black Magic Woman is starting to even out and deepen, which is what I wanted, and the 'burst transition is just starting to blend the way I want it to. But, it's been a real struggle.

The BMW and Goldenrod really don't play nicely together when it comes to applying them, they're just so different both in colour and how they physically mix (or don't mix). Actually, if you try to mix small amounts of them in a container they'll start to separate again pretty much as soon as you stop stirring. A bit like trying to paint thin black ink (BMW) in on a wax surface (Goldenrod). But, I'm starting to get the hang of it.

The last image set (base coat 4) also shows a pic of the wormhole repair on the upper section of the body, and I'm actually reasonably pleased with it. It's the repair that's most visible, being on the top of the body and with the translucency of the Goldenrod, but I think it looks ok. How much it blends in depends on your viewing angle, but it never really looks bad imo.

Anyway, I'm aiming at maybe two more base coats and then some curing time before the gloss top coats. But, I may do some extra coats of the BMW on the sides/edges depending on how it develops over the next two coats.




http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/v5ca8-TL-1A_base_colour_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/q0vay-TL-1A_base_colour_3.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/97gs3-TL-1A_base_colour_4.jpg

[Brendan]

Love the grain you are getting in the goldenrod. Looking great! You planning on keeping the Black pickguard for this one?

[WeirdBits]

Yep, I'll be using the black pickguard I made for this one. But, I may end up cutting another one depending on which pickups I end up using, still black though.

[jase]

Looks great!!

[adam]

Have I gushed over this one yet? I really like where this is going (and no, not just 'cause it's a Tele). That's a really nice bit of wood (grain). I wasn't convinced with the "thin burst", but now I'm sold. This will look great on stage.

[WeirdBits]

I've decided that Wudtone is evil... it actually makes you want to watch paint dry.

On more than one occasion I've found myself just standing and staring at the finish, thinking about what might work best for the next coat, what areas will need more work, or just appreciating it as it dries. You save time when applying it, but lose time admiring it!

[Brendan]

Quote from WeirdBits on May 19, 2013, 11:51
You save time when applying it, but lose time admiring it!



Hmmmmm.... - sorry - lost you there for a sec - was thinking of what Wudtone colour comes next... :o

[dingobass]

Quote from adam on May 18, 2013, 22:13
Have I gushed over this one yet? I really like where this is going (and no, not just 'cause it's a Tele). That's a really nice bit of wood (grain). I wasn't convinced with the "thin burst", but now I'm sold. This will look great on stage.

Look out Weirdy, Adam just made a reference to your axe looking good on stage....

Let me translate that for you...
Bolt the Tele down or it will end up in Adam's collection! :D

[Gavin1393]

Quote from dingobass on May 19, 2013, 17:17

Quote from adam on May 18, 2013, 22:13
Have I gushed over this one yet? I really like where this is going (and no, not just 'cause it's a Tele). That's a really nice bit of wood (grain). I wasn't convinced with the "thin burst", but now I'm sold. This will look great on stage.

Look out Weirdy, Adam just made a reference to your axe looking good on stage....

Let me translate that for you...
Bolt the Tele down or it will end up in Adam's collection! :D

With 100 posts under his belt you'd have thought Weirdy would have learned to speak "Adam" by now....

Must add that I'm glad Pest is building a LP and not a Tele, would hate to see a pensioner and a university graduate fighting over Pests first completed project!!

[WeirdBits]

Quote from dingobass on May 19, 2013, 17:17
[...] or it will end up in Adam's collection! :D

I have to finish it first. Besides, given the distance from Perth, I think this would be a Tele too far ;)

[Gavin1393]

Quote from WeirdBits on May 19, 2013, 20:15

Quote from dingobass on May 19, 2013, 17:17
[...] or it will end up in Adam's collection! :D

I have to finish it first. Besides, given the distance from Perth, I think this would be a Tele too far ;)



...and that's your SECOND mistake!! :))

[keloooe]

Quote from Gavin1393 on May 19, 2013, 18:31

Quote from dingobass on May 19, 2013, 17:17

Quote from adam on May 18, 2013, 22:13
Have I gushed over this one yet? I really like where this is going (and no, not just 'cause it's a Tele). That's a really nice bit of wood (grain). I wasn't convinced with the "thin burst", but now I'm sold. This will look great on stage.

Look out Weirdy, Adam just made a reference to your axe looking good on stage....

Let me translate that for you...
Bolt the Tele down or it will end up in Adam's collection! :D

Must add that I'm glad Pest is building a LP and not a Tele, would hate to see a pensioner and a university graduate fighting over Pests first completed project!!

Yep, yep, and my LP is staying here with me!!!!

[WeirdBits]

I've been busy 'bursting away over the past week or so. During base coat 5 or 6 (using both colours) I finally worked out a technique that would blend/transition the 'burst more the way that I wanted. Since then I've done 4 or 5 coats of just the Black Magic Woman to darken the sides and improve the colour transition (with lots of steel wool'ing in between) using the new method. I'm still not completely happy, but it's much closer to what I wanted. In reality, I could keep tweaking the 'burst until I run out of colour and still not be satisfied, but at some point I have to say enough or it will never get finished. So, at present, I plan on doing probably two more combined base coats, then add the gold highlights to the pure Goldenrod areas front and back, then let it cure for a week or so before starting the top coats.

The images below show the current state of the burst after yesterday's BMW only coat. The blend areas look a little 'woodier' in the pics than it actually is and the black transition is smoother in reality but still needs a touch of steel wool here and there. I'm reasonably pleased with the burst transition in most areas, but there are a couple of places where the grain makes it harder to get the smooth blend that I want. What do you guys think? I'll try to post up some pics with natural light before I start the top coats.



http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/map7d-TL-1A_base_colour_11a.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/d4h0e-TL-1A_base_colour_11b.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/x8721-TL-1A_base_colour_11c.jpg

[Gavin1393]

Looking "lily allan" Scott! Hope you are going to share the method!

[brett40]

lily allan ????

[Brendan]

Great Pest - looking good! Share, share!

[Gavin1393]

Quote from brett40 on May 28, 2013, 18:58
lily allan ????

F&&&en Fantastic.......as per Lily Allan in The Fear!

[keloooe]

HAHAHAHA!!!! Brendan, that tele ain't mine!!!!

Oh wow Scott, that is amazing!!!!

[WeirdBits]

Before starting on the final couple of base coats I thought I'd get an idea of what it'll look like when finished (one day, one day). So, I did a quick (careful) mock-up of the body with the hardware sitting in place and took a few snaps under different lighting conditions. First pic is indoor with flash, natural and fluoro light, second pic is exterior indirect overcast natural light only, third pic is indoor with fluoro and flash. I think it actually looks pretty close to what I was aiming for… so far.

The next two (final) base coats will confirm whether the method I've used to apply the Wudtone for the burst is actually valid, and therefore potentially suitable for public use. So, rather than risk giving out bad advice, I'll wait to see if the final coats are successful before posting the details of the method I used.



http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/qbm70-TL-1A_base_colour_11d.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/255qj-TL-1A_base_colour_11e.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/k7stu-TL-1A_base_colour_11f.jpg

[dingobass]

NIIIIIIIIIICE!
Great choice with the Wilkinson bridge. :)

[Gavin1393]

Wilkinson compensated bridge is awesome. You have to manipulate it a bit when doing the intonation though! But its a better option than the non-compensated variety! I see you have put on what looks like a traditional Bakelite pickguard? Have you tried a white or even a lighter pickguard? Your colour scheme is so good but I think the dark pickguard may detract somewhat? But in all it looks really good!

[WeirdBits]

Nah Gav, it's just a black plastic pickguard that I custom made from a blank, it only looks a bit like Bakelite in the pics because I've left the protective flim on it for now. I always intended to use a black pickguard for this as that's the look that I wanted, but I have a few other options I guess I could try.

[WeirdBits]

So, what I thought was only going to be two more base coats has actually turned into four, but I think it will be worth it in the end. The overall surface of the finish has smoothed out, the Goldenrod has an increased depth to its appearance, and the last couple of Black Magic Woman spots on the lower edge that I wasn't happy with have now filled out more (pic below). I think that will be the end of the base coats, but I'll give it a couple of days to cure and see how it looks. If all's good, I'll post up the method I used for the burst.

As an aside: while I was busy applying the Wudtone today a package mysteriously appeared on the doorstep… didn't even hear the delivery guy, vehicle, doorbell or anything. I ordered it on a whim and it's only a cheap two piece 2nd grade blank, but I think the grain looks pretty good (pics below)… mmm, ashy. I plan on doing a (hopefully) high quality scratch build later this year (sort of a replica/recreation), so I figured it may be a good idea to try something a little less ambitious first and hence ordered the blank. The back is a little messy which I think will clean up, the join seems ok, but the top looks just how I was hoping it would - the tap test sounds alright, but what do I know :? The plan, when I have time, is to do a partial scratch build by cutting a replacement body for one of my other Pit Bull kits, which means either a YB-4, ST-1 or TL-1… I'm thinking maybe a nice Ash Tele to sit beside the Alder Teleburster. Not sure yet.

And yes, that's right, you're not seeing things, a YB-4, all you knuckle-draggers bass players made me go and order a bass kit.




http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/n92pd-TL-1A_base_colour_15b.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/9nv4d-ash_2p_2nd_1a.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/wvb73-ash_2p_2nd_1b.jpg

[Brendan]

Quote from WeirdBits on June 4, 2013, 21:10
And yes, that's right, you're not seeing things, a YB-4, all you knuckle-draggers bass players made me go and order a bass kit.


Excellent another convert to the dark side... 8-)

[dingobass]

Hard to tell from a pic, but that blank looks fine to me.
Where did you score it from, Weirdy?

[WeirdBits]

I just got it on a whim from Guitaraust (http://www.guitaraust.com.au/body/bodies/body-blanks/body-blanks-2nd.html). I'm not sure how it compares on price/quality as I wasn't shopping around for blanks, but it seemed reasonable so I took a chance and I'm pretty happy with how it looks.

However, I think I had better complete a kit or two before embarking on a semi-delusional attempt at a scratch build ;)

[keloooe]

Quote from Brendan on June 4, 2013, 21:26

Quote from WeirdBits on June 4, 2013, 21:10
And yes, that's right, you're not seeing things, a YB-4, all you knuckle-draggers bass players made me go and order a bass kit.


Excellent another convert to the dark side... 8-)
Don't forget me after I finish my 3rd kit!!!!

[WeirdBits]

It finally feels like I'm making some progress…

Gold highlights and first top coat went on at the start of the week, and the light was good today so I figured I'd take a few pics. The first two images are direct morning sunlight, the last is indirect late afternoon light. The highlights and first coat of gloss has really added to the depth of the Goldenrod with a nice metallic shimmer in the grain. I only added the highlights to the Goldenrod areas and kept the Black Magic Woman as pure black, as I thought the gold would only spoil the black. The highlights were really thick and on the verge of going off, but some extensive and vigorous shaking of the bottle seemed to resurrect them and they were actually quite liquid again by the time I applied them. It was still somewhat prone to streaking, so I had to be careful, but I think it ended up ok.

I'm still not entirely satisfied with the way the finish has turned out, but I'm "happy enough" with it to keep going… and, honestly, it did look pretty damn good in the sunlight today, much better than it shows in the photos. Not sure how many more top coats I'll put on… probably until the bottle runs out, with 3-4 days between coats. Regardless, I think the description for Wudtone's Goldenrod should definitely say "Suitable" for Alder rather than the current "Unsuitable" rating ;)



http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/s5r17-TL-1A_top_coat_1d.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/603ag-TL-1A_top_coat_1e.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/726p2-TL-1A_top_coat_1a.jpg

[WeirdBits]

How I did my 'burst

Warning: Let me remind everyone that this is my first build, my first time using Wudtone, and my first attempt at doing a burst… so everything that follows may be inappropriate, misguided, wrong, ridiculous and/or possibly criminally negligent. The method I used may only work with these particular colours, or this colour/wood combo or when the planets are aligned etc. Please take that into consideration.

Why: Black Magic Woman and Goldenrod are very different colours and don't really want to play nice together when doing a burst (and Goldenrod is apparently not recommended for Alder). I tried the Wudtone video method of doing a burst, I tried with wet coats, dryish coats, Goldenrod first, BMW first, different cloth types, mixing the two colours into an intermediate colour, I even tried fine art paint brushes… and although they all worked, at least sort of, none produced the results that I wanted. Typically, one colour would dominate the other or wipe off what I'd already done or just not create a smooth transition. The Goldenrod seems to be sort of waxy, whereas the Black Magic Woman is more inky… if you get what I mean. And, it's tough to get them to blend. Using steel wool alone between coats to blend them seemed to take off too much of one colour or the other, or both, and I'd end up pretty much where I started.

How: The Black Magic Woman has a deep colour coat, so start with that by doing a very dry band in as far as you want the burst transition and then progressively darken it out to the edge. When I did mine I feathered the edge with sandpaper and steel wool between deep colour coats, but I don't think this produces the best results with BMW, so try to get a good transition/gradient with just how you apply the deep colour. Then it's on to the base coats. I found that once I had a couple of solid base coats on, particularly the Goldenrod, it was actually best to deal with the colours separately.

First do a good coat of Goldenrod out to and overlapping the black edge and allow that to dry for a day or two.
Switch to BMW and with your finger as a guide on the edge of the body use your thumb on the cloth to apply a thin film/band of BMW overlapping and in a couple of centimetres from the previous BMW edge. Essentially, you want a semi-transparent, streak free, smooth film of BMW overlapping the previous coat and about 5-8mm further in than you want the edge to finish. If there are streaks/lines in the BMW film then you need to gently and extremely lightly pat/dab the film so that it becomes mottled and the lines blend into a smooth even film (hard to describe, but you'll get the idea). The BMW always seems to go on best with the first swipe, and every time you have to go over the film to try to get it right it actually seems to get more difficult. The photos I took of this process didn't really show it clearly, so I artificially created a more extreme example to illustrate what I'm trying to explain, see first pic below (although, in reality, the overlapping film of BMW should be more transparent). This film/band then needs to be left for 30mins or so until it has just started to dry slightly, which is about how long it would take me to do the other side of the body and then apply a normal BMW coat to the sides and edges.
Once the Black Magic Woman film/band has dried slightly it is time to 'blend'… by essentially rubbing off part of the drying edge of the band with a cloth. Get a clean cloth swab, fold it into a nice pad with an edge and using very small circular motions begin to carefully rub just beside the edge of the BMW band. If you do it right it will start to rub off some of the BMW and you can feather and blend the edge by varying the pressure you apply. If the BMW is dry enough it should feel slightly 'dusty' under your cloth, but as soon as you feel it start to get 'tacky' it's a sign you need to switch to a clean spot on your cloth… otherwise you start smearing the BMW back on! The second image below is an exaggerated illustration of how the edge should look as you move along it. Typically, I would be able to do 3-5cms of edge before switching to a clean spot on my cloth. Once you've blended the edge on the front and back, leave it to dry for a day or two.
Blending the edge using this technique doesn't allow you to rub with the grain to finish off as per normal, so it lends to leave swirl/rub marks along the edge. Give it a light steel wool before the next coat, and repeat the process with the next overlapped band etc, until your burst is at the required intensity and in as far as you want it.
Once you're satisfied with the blend/transition, switch back to Goldenrod and do another coat (or two) overlapping the black. This should smooth and deepen the transition. If needed, switch back to BMW and repeat the banding and rubbing/blending until you are either: satisfied, run out of Wudtone, give up or go insane.


Hopefully it all works as intended and you produce a nice smooth transition all along the edge of your burst that puts mine to shame… last pic below.


Like I said at the start, this was my first use of Wudtone and first attempt at a burst. And, with these colours, this was the method that worked for me. It may not be the best method, it may not be a good method, but it was the method I used. Your mileage may vary.




http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/47y26-TL-1A_how_to_burst_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/f9492-TL-1A_how_to_burst_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/4ifjj-TL-1A_top_coat_1e.jpg

[Brendan]

Scott - nice job and thanks for the detailed run down...

[Brendan]

/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from keloooe on June 5, 2013, 05:56
Don't forget me after I finish my 3rd kit!!!!

Don't worry Pest, we wont forget you... :)

[wokkaboy]

Great job Wierdy, for a first build, wudtone and burst you have nailed it, look forward to your future builds

[robin]

That looks very nice Scott.

And thanks for the detailed walk thru, that's going to come in very handy.

Cheers
rob

[Gavin1393]

That looks freaking awesome! Well done!

[maxaxe]

And thanks for the detailed walk thru, that's going to come in very handy.


That 'burst is so even that I imagined you had used an airbrush.
Eminently good looking Tele is the result of your innovative method.

[jase]

Cheers for your walk thru of your burst method. Im toying with the idea of a burst with similar colours and your post we be priceless. I love your colour/ hardware scheme and your axe looks awesome!!!

[dingobass]

Good stuff Weirdy!
Nice to see you find the workaround for two colours that are reluctant to work together.
Steel wool is one of the best tools for blending. Like you have done, I also do my final blending with steel wool. This has worked on the lighter sun burst combos that I have done so it is great to see someone having success on darker combos.

[WeirdBits]

Broadband down four days,
The world is a cold dark place,
Dial up, last resort.

<sigh>

Applied top coat 7 during the week (3 days between each of the first 4 coats and a week or so between each of the last 3). I think that will be the last top coat, will post some pics once I rejoin the modern world. Still working on inlay experiments for the headstock (and tormenting DB with questions), and have settled on what I'll do but not how I'll do it as yet. The experiments continue...

[Scott J.]

Hi Weirdbits (and fellow Scott! :D)

All kudos and congratulations to you for one of the best documented builds I've yet seen (although I'm just a PBG newcomer myself) ... and a great job done too! - you certainly get a vote from me for entry into the "/</p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]</p>/PBG Inspirational Build Documenters Hall of Fame" (along with several dozen others in the PBG community! ... come to think of it, I don't think that there's ANY of the documented builds that don't inspire! :D)

[Tim]

WOW truly awesome. :D

[adam]

To echo Scott J's sentiments, when this Build Diary is finished, it definitely needs it's own Hall of Fame. This is really inspirational stuff. I've had customers contact me to return a kit because the nut wasn't glued on properly. Weirdbits got a very challenging kit, one that should have never left the factory, and has turned it into a masterpiece.

[WeirdBits]

So, where were we…

It's been a loooong time since I've done an update, and as I've got a couple on builds on the go, I figured I had better post some catch-ups on this one before I start posting about the others. Word of warning, it's probably going to be a lot of posts.

But first, a public service announcement:

Concrete floors are the natural enemy of precision downcut router bits. Don't let your bits become a statistic, if you're going to fumble them do it over something soft

In an entirely unrelated matter…

For Sale:
1 x Precision Downcut Router Bit*. Never been used and only dropped once.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/9sjp8-bit_vs_concrete.jpg
(*Not suitable for routing)

[WeirdBits]

For reasons that will become clear in later posts, I decided to use black MOP on this build, so that meant replacing the fretboard dots too. Basically, I'm still working on the principal that, wherever possible, anything that I may/will want to do on another build I will try it on this build first.

The stock black plastic dots on the fretboard were a little ragged with some filler around the holes, and the holes themselves seemed an odd size, larger than 6mm but smaller than 1/4" (and they seemed to vary a bit too). I decided to use 1/4" black MOP dots, as I hoped that would allow me to clean up the holes a bit. First step was selecting a set of 10 dots that were as close to identical as possible… not as easy as you think because the colour can vary a huge amount and the way they look varies with light, viewing angle, rotation etc. Basically, I wanted them to all look pretty similar when viewing the neck from any given angle. Once I had picked my set of 10 (with a couple of back-ups just in case) I stuck them to some masking tape to keep them in order and aligned.


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/6e06q-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_selection.jpg

The next step was to get the accursed plastic dots out as cleanly as possible. I used a 3mm Brad Point drill bit to drill the centre of the plastic dot, stopping just as the bit got to the bottom of the plastic. Then, using the shaft end of another 3mm bit, I inserted into the hole and gently wiggled it until I heard and felt the glue start to break. Once the glue gives way the dot should come out on the end of the drill bit. A couple of times the dots fractured, so I had to resort to an awl to lever out the fragments and scrap out glue remnants. Be careful not to dent/scratch/tear the fretboard.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/8w885-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_break_glue.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/i03u9-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_plastic_out.jpg

[WeirdBits]

Repeat for all the dots and soon you'll have a plastic-free fretboard!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/4wqy5-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_no_more_plastic.jpg

Unfortunately, the depths of the dots holes were way too deep and irregular, varying from 2mm to 3.5+mm, for my 1.5mm thick MOP so I was going to have to do some fill work. I decided to use some Maple veneer to partially fill the holes, rather than just bulk them out with filler or glue. Then I glued the Maple discs into the deep holes with StewMac thick super glue, and just used thin layer of super glue in the shallow holes (like the two 12th fret dots).

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/j17gl-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_maple_fills_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ew11o-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_maple_fills_4.jpg

[WeirdBits]

The holes were now pretty much the right depth, but were still a little undersize and irregular for 1/4" dots. I was worried about tear-out, so did all the sizing by hand using a 1/4" router bit, a broken 1/4" HSS bit (I ground down the point so it was almost flat), and a 5mm bit wrapped with sandpaper. I also stuck a spare 1/4" dot to the shaft end of a 6mm bit so that I could test the fit without having the damn dots get accidentally stuck in the fretboard.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/2f266-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_fine_tune_tools.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/d3jnr-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_fine_tuning.jpg

The holes didn't clean up as nicely as I had hoped, but it was good enough, so I glued the dots in with more StewMac thick super glue so they sat just proud of the fretboard.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ahwv2-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_glued_in.jpg

[WeirdBits]

So, the dots were now in but were slightly raised and still had square edges and needed to be shaped and smoothed to match the 12" radius fretboard. I used some sandpaper on a flexible strip of ply to rough down the dots and then a taped up razor blade to scrap them down to level.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/eezn1-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_rough_radiusing.jpg

To get the radius correct and smooth the dots I cut down a 4" StewMac 12" radius block into a couple of thinner blocks and then made a super thin one from some 3-ply with a super glue hardened edge.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/jzy9o-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_mini_radius_blocks.jpg

And, after much careful sanding through various grits we have a set of black MOP dots.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/23x36-TL-1A_inlay_MOP_dots_completed.jpg

[WeirdBits]

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, my father passed away in April and as this was the only guitar he ever got to see me building I wanted to add something to the headstock as a memorial. My original idea was to use MOP for a logo/initials and then engrave some other text and fill it with clear epoxy dyed black. Initial tests with the epoxy were promising, although it showed I would need to practice my engraving. The epoxy filled the lettering well, as long as I over-filled as the epoxy contracts and 'dips' as it hardens. Wudtone seemed to work ok over it too. This pic is of a very quick and rough engraving test, epoxy left to set overnight, then sanded and some Goldenrod wiped over with a cotton Q-tip.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/urov1-TL-1A_inlay_epoxy_quick_test.jpg

However, after discussions with DB he had some concerns about the epoxy's longevity, so I was 'persuaded' to try plastic instead. The plastic was easy to cut, but had a bad habit of heating up from even the slowest sawing motion, and the fine lettering would start to bend and wobble… making accuracy an issue. I gave it a couple of tries, but just wasn't happy with the results (upper part of pic below). Instead, I decided to switch to Paua shell and see how that went.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/0z0dn-TL-1A_inlay_paua_plastic_test.jpg

The hardness of the Paua was what I needed to get the fine lettering I wanted, so I finally got something close to what I was aiming for:

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/ldh9g-TL-1A_inlay_paua_test.jpg


I'll explain the 'G-special' next.

[WeirdBits]

Why the 'G-special'?

My father was known within the family simply as 'G', short for Graham, and he had his own unique way of doing things. Once he set his mind on something, he would do it his way… usually against good advice and better judgement. The results, good or bad, would inevitably be referred to as yet another 'G special'. Well, much of this build has been against good advice and better judgement, and a lot of it has been done my way rather than the right way too. So, as a tribute to my father's obvious influence and as this is the only build he got to see me working on, it's only fitting that the guitar be named the 'G - special'. The 'SP' is just my initials.

Following the results from the Paua shell test, I decided to switch to black MOP as I thought that would suit the BMW/Goldenrod combo of the body better (and why I used black MOP dots in the earlier post). So, it was time to cut some black MOP.

I've found that one of the toughest things about cutting shell is keeping the dust clear of the pattern, so here's my simple solution (I later added some clear hose to the funnel). Note: always wear a dust mask when cutting, shaping, sanding MOP.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/55eo5-fans_of_inlay.jpg

First step is to print out the pattern on paper and then super glue it directly onto the MOP (it'll get sanded off later). Then drill some starter holes for the enclosed areas, so the saw blade can be connected through them. A jeweller's saw with fine blades (and plenty of spares), some candle wax to lube the blade from time to time, and a slotted board to do the downstroke cutting on.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/67nw3-TL-1A_inlay_cutting_black_MOP_2a.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/m20vs-TL-1A_inlay_cutting_black_MOP_2b.jpg

[WeirdBits]

And here's the end result, I left the 'dash' attached between the G and special so that I wouldn't lose it and I could cut it to a larger or smaller length when it came time to fit it.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/0482n-TL-1A_inlay_cutting_black_MOP_4.jpg

The next step was to actually get the inlay into the headstock, which meant fine detail routing… and this is what really worried me. I did a lot of tests on scrap wood to both practice and find a technique that would give the results I wanted. I tried tracing the outline of the inlay, but it wasn't precise enough. I tried using the same printed paper pattern that I used to cut the inlay, but even when I glued the pattern down the paper would tend to tear up with the router and it wasn't a perfect match for the hand-cut variation for my inlay pieces. In the end, what I did was to scan my inlay then tweaked it in photoshop, making it all black with a sharp edge and then giving it a 6 pixel red outline. This meant I now had an exact pattern for my inlay and the red border allowed me to rout away the black areas without straying 'outside the lines'. To fix the tearing issue I found that by stretching the pattern on a frame and then 'plasticising' it by painting both sides of the paper with a thick coat of StewMac brush-on super glue and leaving to dry overnight, it would now cut cleanly without curling or tearing even while routing the finest detail lettering.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/992v3-TL-1A_inlay_plasticising_template.jpg


(always have a spare)

[WeirdBits]

I remember Gav showing how he used whiteout when tracing patterns onto headstocks in one of his inlay posts, so I wondered if I could use that same trick… but with super glue! It turns out you can. I worked out where I wanted my inlay on the headstock, painted that area with whiteout, gave it 30mins to dry, and then used StewMac brush-on super glue to glue my 'plasticised' pattern onto the whiteout. The whiteout sticks pretty well to the headstock and the glue sticks well to the dry whiteout, without penetrating through to the wood underneath. Perfect!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/z811b-TL-1A_inlay_whiteout_headstock_2.jpg

Once the glue was dry I attacked it with my Dremel with a precision router attachment and a 1/32" downcut router bit… very nervous as I didn't want to stuff it up, not only the shape but also the depth of the rout. Fortunately, it turned out pretty well with all the little tags for the 'e' and 'c' and centres of the 'p' and 'a' staying intact. I then spent considerable time trying to fine tune the fit with a fine craft knife/scalpel.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/auk57-TL-1A_inlay_headstock_routing_1.jpg

In the end, I found that the all those little tags and centres of letters were a bit of a hassle as I was working to get a good fit with the inlay, and they soon started to bend and break as I was trimming them down. Finally, I decided to cut the tags and centres out as they were either going to break or get covered in glue and end up being more trouble than removing them. Of course, this now meant I would be using some filler.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/b3391-TL-1A_inlay_headstock_routing_3.jpg

[WeirdBits]

Getting the fit right wasn't easy and I ended up taking more material away than I wanted in a couple of spots, but it wasn't too bad for a first attempt. I peeled off what was left of my 'plasticised' pattern and used StewMac thick super glue to glue in the inlay. A little super glue welled up the side of the inlay slightly in a couple of small spots, which was not what I wanted, but it was hard to judge exactly how much was required. Same as with the MOP dots, I wanted the inlay to sit slightly proud of the wood, so I'd routed it just deep enough so that the top of the MOP was a hair's breadth higher than the layer of whiteout. I intentionally left the whiteout on, particularly for the next step… filling in and around the inlay.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/k39tz-TL-1A_inlay_fitting_inlay_1.jpg

I had previously done some tests on headstock offcuts to see what type of filler would match the Maple best around inlay when using Wudtone. I tried some different Timbermate tints, both with and without added sawdust, but the results weren't what I wanted. I also did some tests with Titebond mixed with Maple sawdust, and that had the most promising results… but it really depended on getting the glue/sawdust ratio just right, mixing it just right and applying it just right, to get anything even close to satisfactory. Too much sawdust and it would be crumbly and not stick, too little and it would be too gluey. And, sometimes it would take too much Wudtone colour, other times not enough. So, even though I decided to go with the Titebond/sawdust option, I was pretty anxious. The pic below shows roughly the ratio I ended up using, but I think I added another drop of glue during the mixing.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/u3b64-TL-1A_inlay_fitting_inlay_2.jpg

All the sawdust makes it start to set very quickly, so I had to hurry and pack it, stuff it, jam it, into all the cracks and gaps as fast as possible. Also, the glue contracts as it sets so you need to overfill/slather/paste the mix on to ensure so that it doesn't 'dip' below your desired level (I went a bit overboard here, but better safe than sorry).

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/9y61v-TL-1A_inlay_fitting_inlay_3.jpg

[WeirdBits]

24hrs later, glue/sawdust and whiteout layer carefully sanded back to reveal… filled inlay!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/h9324-TL-1A_inlay_fitting_inlay_6.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/v84hp-TL-1A_inlay_fitting_inlay_5.jpg

The fill match isn't perfect, but it's pretty close. The real test will be once I put some Wudtone on it. As you can see in the pics, that super glue welling up that I was worried about has prevented the filler from going into a couple of small areas which makes it look like there are some gaps around the inlay, but actually all solid… it's just a little bit of clear super glue in a couple of spots. Oh well, not terrible for a first attempt.

[WeirdBits]

In keeping with the 'test it here in case I want to do it on a later build', I decided to try my hand at blackening the truss rod adjustment slot/hole. I didn't want to use paint, and I wasn't sure I could get it black enough with Wudtone's BMW… so I decided to roll the dice and try using some fingerboard black (aka Fiebing's Leather Dye). First, a thorough sanding and some corrective reshaping of a slightly misshapen adjustment slot was required.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/03330-TL-1A_truss_rod_hole_black_1.jpg

Then, careful taping up and preparation with the necessary tools… yep, a couple of cotton Q-tips was what I would be using. Definitely wear gloves, clothes you're not fond of and proceed with caution... this dye really does stain. I only used less than 1 drop for this job.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/9k676-TL-1A_truss_rod_hole_black_2.jpg

I was packin' it as I started applying the dye, as I did not want to make a mess of it. Trying to get nice crisp lines without wobbles, wiggles and bleeding lines was freaking me out. I was really concerned that there could be some bleed-through with the dye, particularly at the top of the hole closest to the nut. Sure enough, despite trying to avoid that area, there was some faint bleed through at the top of the hole, and as it bled up from inside the hole it can't be removed by sanding. But, it's only very faint so I think I can live with it.

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/5a5se-TL-1A_truss_rod_hole_black_3.jpg

[WeirdBits]

Time to stick my neck out…

I decided to go with the Aged Vintage Yellow Wudtone, as I thought that would be a better match for the BMW/Goldenrod burst on the body than a more yellow neck. I sanded to 240 on the back of the neck and headstock, 320 on the front of the headstock (with the inlay polished up carefully with some higher grades), and the fretboard and dots sanded to progressively to 400 and then 600 and 800 on the dots.

I've only done one coat of the AVY so far, and unless the colour fades dramatically over the next few days or when I steel wool it, I think I will stop at just that one coat (I guess I'll have to see what it looks like against the body too). To my eye, the colour looks pretty damn good already and I'm not sure I want it any darker. The fretboard got a light coat too, and looks good as well. The fretboard won't be clear coated, and will instead just get a dose of Dr. Ducks. Pics:

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/w9p7v-TL-1A_neck_base_coat_1_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/nl5q1-TL-1A_neck_base_coat_1_2.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/15oye-TL-1A_neck_base_coat_1_4.jpg

The inlay looks completely different at various angles, from really black to Abalone pinks and greens. The filler hasn't taken quite as much colour as I wanted, but it's not far off, so I'm happy enough with it.

[WeirdBits]

More pics:


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/227i5-TL-1A_neck_base_coat_1_6.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/29ln6-TL-1A_neck_base_coat_1_7.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/kvi99-TL-1A_neck_base_coat_1_8.jpg

And now we're up to date.

[GlennGP]

Lots of firsts, being done pretty well. Good on you Scott, looking good!

[Andyport]

Well done Scott, looking superb.
That inlay has come up a treat.
l love all that fiddly detail stuff!!

[Tim]

Nice work Scott. Looks amazing

[gavinturner]

Scott your inlay looks superb! Great job.

Cheers,
Gavin.

[lawry]

That has come up a treat Scot. I'm particularly envious of the inlay you have done on the headstock. So much cooler than a decal. But there's no way I would even think about attempting that.

[stan]

terrific work Scott, love the inlay

[WeirdBits]

Well, I ended up doing a second coat of Aged Vintage Yellow on the neck, mainly just to even out the colour a little and get the back of the neck closer to the colour of the headstock. I left the fretboard with just the first coat of AVY, it has just the touch of aged colour that I was looking for. Three days between each of the coats, and since then I've applied two neck top coats, again three days apart. I relented and clear coated the fretboard as well, instead of just oiling it like I planned. I figured this guitar probably won't be an everyday player and I wanted to see how the Wudtone lasts on the fretboard. Pics:


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/u3sl1-TL-1A_neck_top_coat_2_1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/wib3k-TL-1A_neck_top_coat_2_2.jpg

Planning on doing one or maybe two more top coats on the neck.

[WeirdBits]

And, just to show how different the black MOP can look, here's the inlay from two angles:


http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/7gjjz-TL-1A_neck_top_coat_2_3.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/d5a3f-TL-1A_neck_top_coat_2_4.jpg

[AJ]

brilliant job on the MOP inset

[WeirdBits]

I guess the finish line is starting to approach. The fourth and final top coat went on the neck a week ago. The neck colour has actually seemed to get a little lighter with the clear, but it's pretty close to what I was aiming for (it looks lighter in the pics, but depends on the angle). I'll probably leave it to cure for another week or so, but I had to take a look at it with the body (the neck fit is tight enough without bolting it in). The body is a little dusty in the pics as it's been hanging for the last couple of months ;)


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/e7s6f-TL-1A_neck_curing_1.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/30l3n-TL-1A_neck_curing_4.jpg

[WeirdBits]

Oh, and I took a moment to hang my christmas decorations:



http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/h412e-xmas_decorations.jpg

[WeirdBits]

What started out as the decision to cut a slightly more refined pickguard for the G-special, and cut a couple of different pickguard options for my nephew's SG-1F (http://www.pitbullguitars.com/?page_id=42&mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=882.0#postid-14773), ended up as a bit of a template making frenzy. I mean, if I was going to cut some SG pickguards I may as well make templates for them, in case I wanted to cut some more. And, I also wanted some G-style truss-rod covers so I should probably make some templates for them too. And, if I was going to be cutting templates for all of those then while I've got everything set up I should probably cut any other templates I may need for the next few builds…

So, with a cheapo plunge router modified to mount on a homemade router table, some new Carbatec bits, and some 7mm ply I set to work… and maybe got a little carried away.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/3q5ym-Template_frenzy_01.jpg


I now have templates for a selection of trussrod covers, cavity covers, trem covers and pickguards for LP, SG, Tele and Strat. The Strat pickguard and trem cover templates were probably the most involved and difficult, but the small size of the TRC's made them the most hassle. Very easy for the router to bite and send them flying (and risk grabbing fingers) and their small surface area meant the double-sided tape had an annoying tendency to flex if I wasn't careful. Anyway, PITA TRC's aside, I can now cut the plastics I want when I want.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/5c661-Template_frenzy_02.jpg


I actually found my Dremel (set up on a router table) to be the best option for cutting the small items, and also for putting the chamfer on the edges of the pickguards and TRC's. Much more precise and better for the tight curves.

[Analyst69]

Wow. Nice work WB.

Very organised of you.

The only thing missing is some pickup surrounds :)

Cheers

Darren

[Brendan]

WB - what / how did you get the shapes for the templates - just about to rip a new pickguard for a VP bass and have some MDF for templates handy - have a Dremel to cut the pickguard once I have a template - just need to cut the MDF to the right shape...

[WeirdBits]

@Brendan - For some, like the Strat pickguard, I copied them from existing items I had using a 1/4" flush cut pattern following bit. Basically, I used double-sided tape with some wooden spacers to attach the existing item about 5mm above the 7mm ply, then I could safely run the bit's bearing along the edge of the item to get a good clean copy.

For the other templates, like the white Tele and SG pickguards (on the left in the image above) and some of the TRC's, I either printed out a downloaded pattern (http://www.terrapinisland.com/pdfFiles.html) or drafted my own then used a very light smear of Aquadhere on the ply to glue the paper pattern on and left it to dry overnight. The next day I would usually "paint" some brush-on superglue onto the outline to harden up the paper and stop it from fluffing up when I cut it. Then, depending on the item, I used either a coping saw, jigsaw, or router to rough cut the template to just outside its outline and then finished the shaping with sanding drums. I found trying to freehand the router to make a template with just a paper pattern was simply too inaccurate and prone to mistakes, and I got much better results by sanding away the last couple of mm's instead.

[wokkaboy]

well done Scott on another awesome looking build. Colours look very similar to your LP you previously built (axe in your avatar picture). Love how you get such a even burst line.
Well done on MOP inlay and the templates and covers you made look awesome, would love to make a ply pickguard.

[gavinturner]

Scott, your templates look awesome! Great job. I really have to get myself a dremel and build that routing table..

Cheers,
Gav.

[WeirdBits]

Approaching the finish line, but there's still a lot to do…

I'll be using push/pull pots and a 4-pole 5-way switch on this build (yes, a 5 way). I modified the control cavity to fit the (very) fat switch prior to painting, basically undercut the upper side of the cavity around the switch, but the control plate itself is designed for the small mini pots.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/50q66-TL-1A_control_plate_01.jpg


Drilling out the holes to 9.5mm to accommodate the push/pull pots.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/j85js-TL-1A_control_plate_02.jpg


Everything now mounts nicely on the plate.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/cm1ma-TL-1A_control_plate_03.jpg


However…

[WeirdBits]

I needed countersunk screws to mount the Grigsby on the plate and the only ones suitable were too long, they actually would risk touching one of the commons on each side, so I had to trim them shorter. Also, the top edge of the outer wafer on the switch was touching the edge of my cavity undercut which would have been a problem once the copper shielding was in (thickness wise). There are no contacts or conductive elements on top bit of the wafer, so I trimmed it and cut the screws down to size. Now it fits nicely without risk of shorts.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/69k76-TL-1A_control_plate_04.jpg




Time to install the string-thru ferrules. Wudtone leaves quite a lip around cavities, especially when you've applied a ton of coats, so I first used a sharp fine craft knife to run around the inside of the holes to remove the build up. I could start the ferrules with just my thumb, and then a small hammer and a piece of dowel the thickness of the top of the ferrule allowed me to gently (and carefully) seat them fully.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/3709r-TL-1A_ferrules_01.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/1rv2r-TL-1A_ferrules_02.jpg

[WeirdBits]

I mentioned in my earlier post about the templates that I was cutting a new pickguard for this build, so I figured some may be interested in how I did it. The reason I was making a custom guard was that the pickups I'm using aren't quite standard, and I thought it would look better if the pickguard matched the pups.

First I made a paper template: modified, tweaked, changed it, test fitted, and modified again until I was happy with it. Then I used that to make a thin (4-5mm) plywood template, easy to cut and shape and easy to 'fix' if needed. If you take too much off or want to change it, it's easy to glue some wood back on or use some sawdust and glue filler. If you are going to make a pickguard don't skip this step… it is relatively easy to fix/adjust a wooden template, but you can't fix a mis-cut piece of pickguard plastic, and the time it takes to make the template is time (and frustration) saved cutting or re-cutting the pickguard.

So, template made, pickguard material (in this case very thin 2mm plastic) rough cut to the basic shape, and face of the template stuck to the back of the plastic using double sided tape. The template has to be on the back of the plastic for what happens later. Router table set up with a 1/4" flush cut pattern following bit. Set the height of the bit so that the bearing runs nicely along the template with the blade getting a clean cut on the plastic. I pre-drilled a couple of 10mm holes in the pickup slot so that I could rout it all in one go.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/65sl5-TL-1A_pickguard_making_01.jpg


Because the bearing is on the top of the bit the routing is done with the plastic facing down, and in this case it's so thin it cuts like soft butter. A couple of minutes later and the plastic is cut to shape (I cleared away the mound of plastic shavings to get a clean pic, as they tend to be static charged and stick to everything!).

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/21l78-TL-1A_pickguard_making_02.jpg


A quick check to make sure there were no lumps, bumps, gouges or missed spots, and then a drill and countersink of the mounting holes. And, of course, some test fitting and tweaking to make sure it and everything around will sit where it's supposed to.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/36nt8-TL-1A_pickguard_making_03.jpg

[WeirdBits]

The reason I mounted the template on the back of the plastic is that I needed the 'good' side of the plastic to face down so that I could put a chamfer on the edge, which again requires the router bit to run along the edge of the template. But, in this case it's done with my Dremel on a router table with a chamfer bit. I set the height of the bit so that the chamfer starts at around 2/3's thickness of the plastic, that is, the 1/3 in from the back is un-chamfered which makes the edge less severe. And, check to make sure the solid pilot end of the bit will make good contact with the edge of the template and not mangle your plastic. I recommend doing a test on a scrap bit of plastic set up with the same thickness ply stuck to it to ensure you're happy with the angle/depth of chamfer etc.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/8b394-TL-1A_pickguard_making_04.jpg


Finish off by working through 600, 800+ grit sandpaper along the chamfered edge and then some fine steel wool to give it a nice smooth polished feel.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/0ws25-TL-1A_pickguard_making_05.jpg


And the end result…

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/92m80-TL-1A_pickguard_making_06.jpg

[WeirdBits]

And, a final test fitting to make sure I didn't stuff it up somewhere along the line. The neck isn't bolted in yet, hence the fishing line centreline for alignment purposes.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/18epy-TL-1A_pickguard_making_07.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/850ef-TL-1A_pickguard_making_08.jpg


And, yes, the pickups are GFS 'Lil Puncher XL's (Cool Vintage).

[Brendan]

Great tute WB - makes it all look so easy :).

[wokkaboy]

Love your work Wierdy. Another stunning axe. Great tutes as well. Better hide this one from Adam!

[adam]

Too late.

[pablopepper]

A real slow burner, this one. Really enjoying the painstaking details being put in. Keep up the great work Scott.

[lawry]

Hey Scott, your "how to" is great. I love the way you've put it all together with the mods. Be really keen to hear the different colours you get out of her.

[WeirdBits]

A bit more to do before I can finally start assembling this thing. More excruciating detail ;)

Copper shielding for all cavities, with ice-cream sticks and a few pieces of dowel as the instruments of choice for the smoothing. mmm… coppery. You have to be a little careful with this stuff as the edges can be razor sharp and it is very easy to slice a fingertip (think paper-cut except done with a razor blade).

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/7h270-TL-1A_shielding_03.jpg


Installed shielding link wire to the neck cavity, ground wire for the bridge, and shielded output wire to a switchcraft jack with an electrosocket mount. I could have just connected a wire to the bridge cavity shielding which would then ground the bridge, but I'd prefer to ground the bridge directly and have it provide the link to the cavity shielding.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/co9qv-TL-1A_shielding_04.jpg


As the cavity for the output jack is pretty snug I decided to do that bit extra and heatshrinked not only the hot, but also the ground and the outside arm for the tip, just to be safe. That way, nothing should be able to accidentally short the hot (hopefully), even if the wires get wrenched around.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/5z447-TL-1A_shielding_05.jpg

Tested the continuity of the shielding and links with my multimeter, and also checked that output hot was isolated, and it all seems good to go. Just need the pickups in place and all the fixed wiring will then be ready to connect to the control plate.

[WeirdBits]

Time to add some jewellery to the headstock. A final check of the position of the Gotoh tuners, using a plastic ruler and square so I don't mark the finish, checking spacing and alignment. Near enough.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/tk9ha-TL-1A_neck_hardware_01.jpg


I'm really paranoid about snapping tuner screws so I was very careful to double-check that each hole was deep enough and then used screw starters and the actual screws with candle wax to gradually prep the holes before actually installing the tuners. Once the tuners were installed successfully, I repeated the process with the string trees. I know that roller trees are overkill on a hardtail, but I wanted to test what these ones were like and see if they had any impact on tuning.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/51567-TL-1A_neck_hardware_02.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/304lu-TL-1A_neck_hardware_03.jpg

[gavinturner]

Awesome work Scott. Thanks so much for the how to on cutting pickguards from a template. Really motivated to get into it myself now. The shielding looks great and I also love the recessed output jack. Nice!

cheers,
Gav.

[Gavin1393]

Hey Scott

Classy stuff! Some really terrific material in this thread. I was thinking that it would be sad if your "making of and use of templates" got 'lost' inside this thread and hence, to ensure you get te credit you deserve, when you have time could you post a thread specifically on the process you followed. Basically if you can Start a new thread and then cut and paste your already detailed info?

Thanks

[WeirdBits]

Gav T, thanks, and Gav B if you think it's worthy of a separate thread I'll see what I can manage when I get a chance. There's a few aspects that probably should be expanded upon.

[Gavin1393]

i do think it's worth of it's own thread as I too am inspired to make a few!!

[wokkaboy]

looking very smick Scott, good idea about posting a separate thread for your templates

[maxaxe]

This will be a Supertele when it's finished, which looks like like being pretty soon now.
Love seeing how meticulousy you go about things.

Yeah, please do a thread on "how to" by all means.

Your methods have motivated me to look into building or buying a routing table . . . I already have a cheap plunge router plus a Dremel with a router attachment, so it's time to get on it . . .

[stan]

awesome attention to detail, Scott, you are the shielding king!

[WeirdBits]

Ok guys, you've talked me into it, I'll post up a separate thread about making templates and cutting pickguards etc. I need to get a few more pics to explain a couple of things, but I should get it sorted in the next few days.

Back to the build…

The final step in my shielding was to add a touch of electrical insulation over the shielding where the switch will sit in the control cavity and beneath the neck pickup. Neither should touch, but the switch is very large and the neck pickup will be sitting very low, so I just wanted a little insurance.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/i5gnv-TL-1A_shielding_06.jpg


Regarding the neck pickup (GFS Lil' Puncher XL), it is recommended that it be mounted low, real low, like pickguard level low, to allow it to 'breathe' (their description). I took this into account from the start of the build, which explains why I had that strange looking extra bit of routing in the neck pup cavity. But, because it will be sitting so low and it will be body mounted, the normal pickup springs and screws would either leave it sitting too high or the screws would risk being too deep. Instead, I made some spacers from hard plastic tube that will be on the screws above the pickup, and used surgical rubber instead of springs. The spacers keep the screws from needing to go too deep and the rubber allows the pickup to be really low but still have just enough flex so the pickguard can be slid in/out of position.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/89a96-TL-1A_neck_pup_mount_01.jpg


And screwed into position. Note: before I mounted the pickup I quickly de-soldered and separated the series link of the coils (4 conductor), ready for wiring later.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/k9i03-TL-1A_neck_pup_mount_04.jpg

[WeirdBits]

When I started the build I was considering doing coil splits etc. on these pickups, but apparently the results aren't ideal. From what I can gather the bridge split sounds the same but weaker, while the neck split washes out completely (or, so the reports go). Instead, I decided to try series/parallel coil switching for each pickup, and series and parallel options between the pickups. Here's the wiring scheme I eventually came up with (I couldn't be bothered re-doing it on the PC). The circled letters (ABCD) denote the 4 poles of the switch.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/8l5d4-TL_1A_G_special_wiring_v1.jpg

Note, there is an slight error in the above schematic. The 'GFS Colours' list in the upper left should be:
Green (hot)
Red
&
White
Black (gnd)

This change means the the red and white wire connections on the push/pull pots need to be reversed, so white goes to the middle terminal, red to the outer terminal on the same side.


Specs: GFS Lil' Puncher XL pickups (Cool Vintage version), 500K Alpha push/pull pots (log for volume, linear for tone), 0.047uF paper in oil cap, Grigsby 4-pole 5-way superswitch, and post-volume tone wiring.

Basically, the push/pull pots allow the pickup coils to be switched between series and parallel, which should thin/hollow and brighten their sound, and the 500K pots should help keep the overall brightness. The superswitch allows me to not only do the "Tele 4-way bridge and neck in series" option, but also the bridge and neck in parallel out of phase. Positions 1, 3 and 5 will give the standard Tele options, with the extras at positions 4 and 2, respectively. At least, that's the plan… it may change depending on how it sounds.

I wanted the control plate to be complete as possible ready for when the bridge, and bridge pup, is installed, but I can only go so far. The four wires of each pickup need to connected to the push/pull switches on the pots, but that can only be done with the pickups in place, which is going to be a real pain to do. Anyway, all the wiring and links are now in place on the plate, and it's just waiting for the pickups and output jack lead to be connected. It's a little messier that I'd like, but I had to be more concerned about minimising the profile of the switch than making it pretty.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/m186o-TL-1A_wiring_02.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/5rv8d-TL-1A_wiring_04.jpg


I couldn't bring myself to clip the leads on the PIO cap, it's a little too permanent and would restrict where I could position it, so instead I slid on some stripped insulation and now I should be able to position it where I want without risk of a short. The keen eyed may notice that the wiring on one of the switches doesn't match my diagram, it's just that I reversed it so that it will be easier to access when I connect the pickups.

I did a continuity check and everything appears to be connected and working the way it should be. I also checked the pots, 439K for the log volume pot, and 498K for the linear tone pot. The volume is a little low, but I can live with it.

[lawry]

Wow Scott. I've done a fair bit of intense wiring in tight spaces and that is definitely up there with them. Only jiggle space left. You wiring schematic is fantastic and is going to provide so many options from a 'simple' setup. Brilliant. 8-)

[WeirdBits]

hehe thanks Lawry… I think that may turn out to be one of my tamer schematics ;)

In what I think will be one of the final steps before I bolt everything together, I had a go at making my first nut today (unbleached bone). I suppose it would be much easier if the neck was already on, but I knew if I put it together with a temporary nut it would most likely end up being a permanent temporary nut. I basically followed the StewMac Nut Making Guide (http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Nuts,_saddles/i-5350.html) as closely as I could, and used other nuts I had for reference. It's definitely a skill that will take time to develop to produce quality results, so full admiration to professionals like Gav and DB who actually know what they're doing.

I cut the nut, what I hope is, a fraction high so that it can be lowered as needed. It's not a great first effort, but it looks ok and I think it will be usable. I haven't trimmed the nut's width yet, which will wait until the neck is bolted on, and then I'll do the final adjustment and clean-up… at least, I will if it is actually usable. We'll see. If all else fails I still have the original plastic nut that I removed intact at the start of the build.

Adjusting the thickness of the blank to match the nut slot.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/5019w-TL-1A_nut_01.jpg


With the initial shaping done, marking out string positions.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/8p238-TL-1A_nut_03.jpg


And the result so far. Tough to get a good pic that actually showed the shape and slots, so this is the best I could manage. I'll see how it goes once the neck is on.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/hf0ad-TL-1A_nut_05.jpg

[Gavin1393]

I think the first one I ever did took me 90 minutes or more.... whack one out from start to finish in under 15 minutes these days. So there's hope!

[gavinturner]

Great job Scott. I've done 2 nuts so far and it's still a struggle, especially the final adjustment. Looks like you've totally nailed it!

cheers,
Gav.

[AJ]

Looking good there, and there's nothing like the feeling that you made the nut from "get go" all yourself.. and for those that don't have a stewmac string spacing rule, I found this on the net a little ways back and it is as close as you can get to the stew mac spacings.. just slide the nut down the scale till the two outside marks line up and bingo.. you got all the strings evenly compensated/ spaced.

[AJ]

the pdf didn't upload first time, converted it to a jpg file.

[AJ]

3rd go.. next time should get the next doors kid to show me how to..lol
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/a347f-NUT-LAYOUT-V2.jpg

[gavinturner]

Nice one AJ!

cheers,
Gav.

[WeirdBits]

I don't want to alarm anyone, but…


OMG! IT MAKES NOISE!

:)

But, I'm getting ahead of myself. First off, it was time to bolt on the neck and mount the bridge. I started by placing strips of masking tape on every second fret or so, and then measured the width of the neck at each fret and marked the centre. The fretboard dots can't be relied on for your centre-line, as they vary too much and aren't always centred. As such, the masking tape and measured centres allow me to line up a fishing line centre-line.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/1958h-TL-1A_mounting_neck_bridge_01.jpg


With the my markers lined up with the centre-line I was able to align the neck and clamp it in place.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/3wmih-TL-1A_mounting_neck_bridge_02.jpg


And, then carefully bolted it into position (well, screwed it actually, and I used candle wax to lubricate the screws to minimise the risk of them snapping).
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/z9nva-TL-1A_mounting_neck_bridge_03.jpg


Time for the bridge…

[WeirdBits]

I used an old high and low E string (through the string-thru) along with the centre-line to align the bridge with the neck (I'm using the bone nut I made in the previous posts, it's just sitting in place for now). I also had to make sure all the string-thru holes were clear and lined up. Once I was satisfied, I tightened the bridge mount screws just enough to hold it in place.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/64t62-TL-1A_mounting_neck_bridge_04.jpg


Then, I used a couple of long steel rules (with masking tape on their back to protect the finish) to line up along each side of the bridge to check its squareness and alignment down the length of the neck. I also took a moment to re-check my scale length to ensure the bridge was in the right position, and had a look at the action (saddle height, nut height, string height etc). If you remember back to early in this thread, I did some re-routing of the neck pocket, so I wanted to make sure I got it right.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/79mc5-TL-1A_mounting_neck_bridge_05.jpg


It all looks pretty good to me.

[WeirdBits]

Time for the dreaded moment… trying to connect the control plate to the pickups. Because of the length of the leads and small cavity size, I had to connect the plate right up close to the body which made things very awkward. While making the connections I had to be careful how the wires would lay in the cavity and around the switch to ensure that it would all fit… hopefully.

Ready for surgery.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/80uhf-TL-1A_wiring_05.jpg


It was a struggle (it's been a while since I've done any real soldering), but I eventually got everything connected and wiggled into position. I knew it was never going to be pretty, but I tried to keep it neat and use heatshrink wherever I could.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/5l94d-TL-1A_wiring_06.jpg


Time for the big test. Using a headphone amp I plugged it in and… it actually worked!! Well, mostly. Both the pickups and all 5 positions on the lever switch worked (I still had my 2 test strings on from mounting the neck and bridge), but when I used the push/pulls, nothing, silence.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/m2vf6-TL-1A_wiring_07.jpg


Because it was the same for both pickups I knew immediately what must have happened, I'd mixed up the colour pairs on my original diagram, which meant the red and white wires were reversed on the switches… thus each coil was shorting itself and no sound. The fact that I knew what was wrong didn't stop the 5 minute stream of expletives that followed… as I would have to reverse those two connections on each switch, which were hard enough to solder the first time, and now had everything else soldered in around them <sigh>. Eventually I was able to get them reversed and re-soldered, but the wiring was now a little uglier and messier… but, it worked, at last. Btw, I've edited my post with the schematic in it to explain the error with the wiring.

The next step was trying to squeeze all of that wiring into the control cavity. It was somewhat akin to trying to close an overfull suitcase, but after several attempts and re-positioning of wires I was finally able to get it into position and screwed down. In my brief untuned 2 string test… I have to say I'm liking the out of phase parallel sound a lot, and although the tone has a nice warm sound when it's wound right back, the linear pot is making it a bit 'all or nothing' rather than the progression I was hoping for. I may need to change it back to a log pot at some point, I'll wait and see.

[WeirdBits]

So, everything was in place, time to throw a full set of strings on it… PitBull 9's, of course. Final touch, over-size strap buttons.

I still need trim the width of the nut, but I won't do that until the neck has settled in and I can get a better idea of the action. I did a rough check today and I think I'll have to take about 0.010" or so off the bottom of the nut to get the overall string height close to where I want it, then tweak the slots. Because the neck has been sitting so long (maybe 8 months) with no tension, I've been tuning up in stages and I'm still around 2 tones down from standard at the moment.

Time for some quick pics, all indoors unfortunately. I will hopefully be able to get some good pics in sunlight over the next couple of days. Anyway, I think it's come up alright.


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/83hg7-TL-1A_assembled_01.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/k20z7-TL-1A_assembled_03.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/3l4u5-TL-1A_assembled_04.jpg

[WeirdBits]

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/ku4je-TL-1A_assembled_02.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/bkv91-TL-1A_assembled_05.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/1o50u-TL-1A_assembled_07.jpg

I just had a quick play with the headphone amp again, still tuned a couple of tones down though, and I have to say that I lurrrrrve the position 2 'out of phase parallel' sound! Very notchy, nasally, almost like position 2 on a strat sounds. And, the fat 'bridge and neck in series' (position 4) has some hair on it. As expected, the parallel coil settings for the pickups thin their sound quite nicely, which I like, and I think this wiring is going to produce some really nice sounds. Now, if I can just add that talent switch, I'll be set.

[Brendan]

Great work Scott - looking schmick and sounds like its a cracker!

[gavinturner]

Fantastic work Scott. She's come up beautifully! Would love to hear how she sounds...!

cheers,
Gav.

[wokkaboy]

another fantastic build Scott, hope you are far enough away from the tele napper. Nice mods and sure it will sound great when the neck has settled in and played through a nice amp

[crundes]

Looks flipping amazing Scott! I'd be happy to pay a couple of grand for that if I saw it in a shop (if I had a couple of grand...) Did you find that there was much leeway in the neck when you were aligning it? I thought with a bolt on neck you could just rely on the fit of the neck cavity to keep the neck straight assuming the fit is tight enough. Anyway you should definitely enter this gem in GOTM!

[Gavin1393]

Just genius!

[WeirdBits]

@Tim - there is usually a bit of wiggle room in the neck pocket, even with the bolt-on's, and there was a bit with this kit. I originally drilled the holes and bolted on the neck when I positioned the bridge and drilled the string-thru holes well before I painted. Now with the finish on the little bit of Wudtone around the edge of the neck pocket has made the fit much tighter, so doing the alignment again ensured that the finish wasn't skewing the neck slightly in the pocket. Also, the centreline and strings helped to make sure the bridge was not only aligned with the neck's centre but also that it was square, and that the strings were well positioned along the edge of the fretboard. The more times you check the less chance of an error going unnoticed.

@Woks - you're giving me too much credit mate, this is still my first build (I've got a few other in progress though). I started this build diary March 1st, 2013... so, bit of a rush job.

[WeirdBits]

I bit the bullet today and replaced the linear tone pot with a log (audio) taper… a much better, more gradual progression of the tone now, so it was worth the, not insignificant, effort. I may eventually switch the tone cap to a 0.022 as the current 0.047uF PIO is maybe a touch darker than I wanted. But, I'll see how is goes for a while before deciding. I still need to trim and finish the nut in the next few days, but the neck seems to be settling in nicely.

I still haven't got any daylight pics that I'm really happy with, but here's a couple of attempts I grabbed today.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/6x9gn-TL-1A_assembled_16.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/rzj8v-TL-1A_assembled_18.jpg

[Brendan]

Another great Tele - beautiful work Scott.

[WeirdBits]

I think it is actually… finished.

Yesterday I finalised the nut height, trimmed it to width and gave it a clean up and polish, and I think it's turned out ok for a first attempt at nut making. Then, last night I did an initial setup on it and it feels pretty good and is playing quite nicely. The neck finish is still a bit grippy, but it'll wear in soon enough. Need to give it a good work out over the next few days.

It's been a long and, at times, difficult journey (for previously mentioned reasons), but now that it is complete… it feels a little strange. It started out as the Teleburster, which was to be my practice and experimental build, but later it became the G-special as a memorial to my father and his own unique way of doing things… I guess some of that rubbed off on me.

I'm still frustrated trying to get good pictures of it, but I figured if I take enough I'm bound to find some I like. The finished(?) product:

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/96uf4-TL-1A_completed_40.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/8b7mm-TL-1A_completed_39.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/h4468-TL-1A_completed_05.jpg

[WeirdBits]

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/08hzk-TL-1A_completed_24.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/0fo25-TL-1A_completed_25.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/41v78-TL-1A_completed_27.jpg

[WeirdBits]

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/2l6zk-TL-1A_completed_29.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/72kbd-TL-1A_completed_07.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/zu3l7-TL-1A_completed_06.jpg

[stui]

Super cool axe mate. I feel a bit weird knowing this build diary is finished now, knowing how long it's been active for.

Looking forward to seeing your Les sPaulted come to life now. Still madly in love with the cap on that one :)

[bargeloobs]

24hrs later, glue/sawdust and whiteout layer carefully sanded back to reveal… filled inlay!

http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/h9324-TL-1A_inlay_fitting_inlay_6.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/v84hp-TL-1A_inlay_fitting_inlay_5.jpg

The fill match isn't perfect, but it's pretty close. The real test will be once I put some Wudtone on it. As you can see in the pics, that super glue welling up that I was worried about has prevented the filler from going into a couple of small areas which makes it look like there are some gaps around the inlay, but actually all solid… it's just a little bit of clear super glue in a couple of spots. Oh well, not terrible for a first attempt.

This thread has proved to be a 2 for 1 learning deal, I think, after seeing your results with the inlay I'll try this technique too. Just wondering, where do you get the fine jewelers saw blades (what gauge), and the fine bit for the router? I want to use this logo and can imagine some of the finer details being a bit tricky without the right size bit.

[WeirdBits]

The process is a little more refined and detailed in my Telebilly thread (http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=3204&p=62878&viewfull=1#post62878), with cleaner results too.

Most of the specialist tools are from StewMac (http://www.stewmac.com), but you may find something equivalent locally:

Jeweller's Saw (http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Inlay_and_Pearl_Cutting/Pearl_Cutting_Saw.html) (usually use 'fine' blade, wax it with a candle to reduce friction and inevitable breakage... you'll break a lot of blades)
Carbide Down-cut router bits (http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Inlay_and_Pearl_Cutting/Carbide_Downcut_Inlay_Router_Bits.html) (1/32 & 3/64 mainly for outline, very fragile, don't drop them on concrete!)
Dremel router base (http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Inlay_and_Pearl_Cutting/Precision_Router_Base.html) (I have an cheap aquarium pump attached to help blow away the dust)

Plus, you need good eyes (or a magnifying visor) and a nice bright light so you can actually see what you're doing. I advise doing several practice routs to get used to working on such a small and precise scale. The other alternative is hand cut it with fine knives and chisels, but depth and accuracy can be an issue either way.

[dave.king1]

Very taste T

[kimball492]

Scott ,I hadn't read this build diary, and boy did you have to over come some challenges. Just wanted to say well done looks fantastic. A great tribute to your father . Play it enjoy it , no need to say you'll treasure I'm sure .
Best Wishes
Kimball

[B.A.R]

Dude this guitar is amazing!! This is almost.exactly what i had.imagined in my head/!! I was thinking a natural ash/butterscotch yellow with black binding but this small.burst is unbelievable!!!!

I wouldn't have the skill level to do.it.but I wish I could.copy.it exactly!

[WeirdBits]

If that's the type of finish you want then definitely try it. It's not a matter of skill, but rather working out a technique to achieve the result you want. Pick your finish and colours then get some pine or even plywood, take the time to sand it smooth, and then start experimenting with the burst. The tough part is getting the graduation/blending to work in the thin burst with such dissimilar colours. There are lots of different ways to do it, depending on the finishes you're using.

If you can get something close to what you want on the scrap wood then you can move with confidence onto your TL-51, although the ash will be somewhat different to pine/ply. If the experiment fails, well it's better on the scrap wood than on the body.

[B.A.R]

Too true. In your avatar is that a similar finish on an LP?

[Sheven]

That's looking nice!!