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adam
17-02-2013, 01:46 AM
If you'd like to put your own decal on the headstock of your guitar, you'll need to grab some Waterslide Decal Paper. You can find this at good hobby shops or there's an online supplier in Sydney:
http://www.decalpaper.com.au/

There's also plenty of help online for getting some great looking decals.

If you attempt this, maybe you can document the process and show us the results.

adam
17-02-2013, 01:54 AM
I'm keen to see someone attempt the metallic paint option...

Gavin1393
17-02-2013, 04:23 AM
Quote from adam on February 16, 2013, 09:46
If you'd like to put your own decal on the headstock of your guitar, you'll need to grab some Waterslide Decal Paper. You can find this at good hobby shops or there's an online supplier in Sydney:
http://www.decalpaper.com.au/

There's also plenty of help online for getting some great looking decals.

If you attempt this, maybe you can document the process and show us the results.

I have done several decals....quite a simple process really. You need to get the correct decal paper first up. Then print on either a laser printer or an ink printer. If printing with an ink printer you will then need to use an acrylic varnish to water proof the decal. Generally i'd spray three coats of acrylic varnish and leave to dry in between each coat. Laser jet toner is waterproof so the waterproofing part can be skipped.
Cut out the transfer, soak in water and then carefully slide into place!

adam
17-02-2013, 05:18 AM
Can you post some photos of your decals Gav?

keloooe
17-02-2013, 06:53 AM
Quote from Gavin1393 on February 16, 2013, 12:23

Quote from adam on February 16, 2013, 09:46
If you'd like to put your own decal on the headstock of your guitar, you'll need to grab some Waterslide Decal Paper. You can find this at good hobby shops or there's an online supplier in Sydney:
http://www.decalpaper.com.au/

There's also plenty of help online for getting some great looking decals.

If you attempt this, maybe you can document the process and show us the results.

I have done several decals....quite a simple process really. You need to get the correct decal paper first up. Then print on either a laser printer or an ink printer. If printing with an ink printer you will then need to use an acrylic varnish to water proof the decal. Generally i'd spray three coats of acrylic varnish and leave to dry in between each coat. Laser jet toner is waterproof so the waterproofing part can be skipped.
Cut out the transfer, soak in water and then carefully slide into place!
So, soak the decal in water after peeling, or before???

Gavin1393
20-02-2013, 02:54 AM
Soak in water until it simply slides off....

I might have seen some examples like these somewhere around..... 8O 8O 8O 8O




http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/1z247-Photo1.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/5wu77-Photo1-4.jpg

dvous
11-03-2013, 12:17 PM
Just found this thread while trawling through the forum for anything I may have missed (slow night at work....)

I've just received some waterslide decal paper for inkjet printers from this supplier:

http://tillymin.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=339

They're quick to get it in the post to you, and just a bit cheaper than decalpaper.com.au

You can order as as little as three sheets for $7.50, up to a pack of 100 for $120.

10 sheets will set you back $17 compared to $26 from Decal Paper.

adam
11-03-2013, 01:44 PM
Great, thanks for the tip.

I've actually ordered a quantity of waterslide paper and we are sending Pit Bull Guitars decals on this paper with our kits shipping this week.

I might also make single sheets of the paper available at cost... if there's a call for it.

GlennGP
12-03-2013, 01:26 AM
For those (like me) who don't quite have the front to put "Fender" on something that actually isn't, but like tricking the eyes of the unwary into seeing something that isn't really there, there's a "Fender" Truetype font available here: http://fontmeme.com/fender-font/. I can manipulate it in Word to be gold with a black outline, and then it could be printed on the waterslide decal paper, reading whatever word I want which slightly, but not entirely, resembles "Fender"!

Unfortunately it seems to be impossible to find a "Gibson" Truetype font, but there is a guy on one of the luthier forums who designed all the characters for one. If you were of a mind to spend the time with a font creator program, it could be done. The kind thing to do, naturally, would then be to post the Truetype font back to the forum ... !

keloooe
04-04-2013, 05:19 AM
Yea, there seems to be no Gibson font, but at least we can use the character map!!!

GlennGP
04-04-2013, 05:51 AM
I've worked with a Truetype font creator program before, to create a font based on my own handwriting. It worked pretty well, but there's a lot of detailed work involved.

There's an article and links here if you're interested in taking it further, young Padawan: http://mashable.com/2011/11/17/free-font-creation-tools/

keloooe
04-04-2013, 05:56 AM
Definitely will check it out soon!!! Gotta do more sanding though!

keloooe
11-04-2013, 02:41 AM
Sorry for the double post guys!

Glenn, what tool/s did you personally use to create your personal font, and are there any pre-requisites involved???
Also, I found a Microsoft font that is most likely the REAL Fender font! it's called Brush Script MT, I made a few designs for fun, like StratoPester (going to be used in a strat after the LP!)

GlennGP
11-04-2013, 03:04 AM
Callum, I don't recall exactly what the program was called, it was probably 15 years ago, but it was a freeware application downloaded as an executable file (.exe) which ran under Windows XP. Any of the ones mentioned in the article I linked to above would absolutely outperform it.

However, I think you've hit the nail on the head with Brushscript MT. I just ran a test, setting the "Fender" font I downloaded against Brushscript MT, and the differences are negligible. The pic below has the Fender font above, and Brushscript below. If you use a small-cap "E" where necessary, you've pretty much got what you need.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/3z243-Fender-font-test.jpg

keloooe
11-04-2013, 03:16 AM
Oh, ok then! I asked because most of them were too tricky to use!
And about the font, I thought it was the real thing on first thoughts, should've done a comparison first, but it's pretty close!

dingobass
11-04-2013, 03:48 AM
BWAHAHAHAHA! StratoPester..... Love it! :D

keloooe
11-04-2013, 03:53 AM
Quote from dingobass on April 10, 2013, 11:48
BWAHAHAHAHA! StratoPester..... Love it! :D
TelePester, Precision Pest, Jazz Pest, Les Pest... The list goes on...
Also: Gibson - Peston (like it?)

wokkaboy
11-04-2013, 04:32 AM
Quote from keloooe on April 10, 2013, 11:53

Quote from dingobass on April 10, 2013, 11:48
BWAHAHAHAHA! StratoPester..... Love it! :D
TelePester, Precision Pest, Jazz Pest, Les Pest... The list goes on...
Also: Gibson - Peston (like it?)

nice guitar names there Pest !

I've got a Rob Formentin built strat shape guitar which I signed the headstock with Wokkacaster !

nice pickup on the Fender font Pest, very close other than the reverse "e's" !

keloooe
11-04-2013, 04:38 AM
hahaha Wokkacaster!!!!
See how much fun you an have with Axe names????

wokkaboy
11-04-2013, 04:55 AM
Quote from keloooe on April 10, 2013, 12:38
hahaha Wokkacaster!!!!
See how much fun you an have with Axe names????

yer thats it Pest, the Wokkacaster has a better ring to it than the Popeyecaster ! haha

keloooe
11-04-2013, 05:43 AM
Quote from wokkaboy on April 10, 2013, 12:55

Quote from keloooe on April 10, 2013, 12:38
hahaha Wokkacaster!!!!
See how much fun you an have with Axe names????

yer thats it Pest, the Wokkacaster has a better ring to it than the Popeyecaster ! haha
HAHA!!! yer, Wokkacaster does have a better ring to it! StratoPester has a good ring as well, I'm using it for my next build

GlennGP
11-04-2013, 06:21 AM
Here ya go:
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/27fq8-Callums.jpg

keloooe
11-04-2013, 06:24 AM
Quote from GlennGP on April 10, 2013, 14:21
Here ya go:
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/27fq8-Callums.jpg
that is the best custom decal ever! Thanks for that Glenn!!!
I also found a Gibson font, but it costs $7.95, what a ripoff!!!

maxaxe
13-05-2013, 08:43 AM
Now that I've finished pissing my pants at the above antics - STRATOPESTER - indeed . . .

I want to apply waterslide decals onto a black base . . .
I wondered if anyone has used white based laser WS film/paper to get the effect in my pic below?

(Yeah, another lame 'caster pun)

Ta

Max
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/343fp-Label-1.jpg

AJ
13-05-2013, 09:02 AM
yep that'll work ok, just matching the black to black might be slightly different

Brendan
13-05-2013, 09:35 AM
Max, looks great - goes with the theme! Maybe a grey rather than the white (I think that's what they do on US aircraft). To be really tacky could go with a greyscale USAF logo or even change out the star with an axe...

dingobass
13-05-2013, 10:05 AM
Quote from GlennGP on April 10, 2013, 14:21
Here ya go:
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/27fq8-Callums.jpg

Classic! 8-)

keloooe
13-05-2013, 10:13 PM
Quote from maxaxe on May 12, 2013, 16:43
Now that I've finished pissing my pants at the above antics - STRATOPESTER - indeed . . .
That was my idea max, I have more on a text document if ya wanna hear more :P


Quote from dingobass on May 12, 2013, 18:05

Quote from GlennGP on April 10, 2013, 14:21
Here ya go:
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/27fq8-Callums.jpg

Classic! 8-)
Yeah, awesome decal by Glenn, can decal paper be reused if I only use a bit of it???

phloggy
14-05-2013, 12:23 AM
Quote from keloooe on May 13, 2013, 06:13
Yeah, awesome decal by Glenn, can decal paper be reused if I only use a bit of it???

I bought some for my TL-1. You probably could if you were very careful with where you printed and you use the fixative. If you print as close as you can to the edge and cut it out before you spray it with the fixative, then you should be able to attach the rest to another sheet of paper or something so you can run it through again.

Mine used a whole sheet, so I wasn't able to test the theory.

keloooe
14-05-2013, 12:57 AM
Yea, I was going to use a bit, cut it out, spray it with a bit of clear coat, then use the rest as needed because only the needed bits have the clear coat!

Brendan
14-05-2013, 12:58 AM
Alternatively - cut them in half and use as A5. Great thing about the A series paper is that they are all consecutively twice as big as the higher number. A3 = 2 x A4 = 4 x A5 = 8 x A6. Given we are talking headstock here, you shouldn't need more than an A5. Think ahead and print a couple at once - the one and a Justin then fill what's left of your piece of paper.

maxaxe
16-05-2013, 10:56 AM
Quote from AJ on May 12, 2013, 17:02
yep that'll work ok, just matching the black to black might be slightly different

Thanks AJ

I will get some white based laser w/s film.
Luckily I have a mate who works with HQ laser printers.
Also, Adam reckons laser is superior to inkjet for our purposes.
Plus I have a theory that because laser reqires no sealing coat until it's in place, that it will sit "flatter" on the wood. That means less probs with getting a flush finish.
As you suggest, matching black may be an issue, so I will try a few experiments before tackling any headstocks.

Max

AJ
16-05-2013, 11:04 AM
sometimes, a black permanent marker will match up a little better against gloss black (for blending in )

Walrus
14-06-2013, 02:22 AM
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from GlennGP on March 11, 2013, 09:26
...there's a "Fender" Truetype font available here: http://fontmeme.com/fender-font/.
They've now removed the Fender font... :( . I saved a few before they removed this, what a shame cause it was a cool little tool. Still, there are some good fonts...I like the Deftone font under the Retro theme.

rhay
16-06-2013, 10:59 AM
Brush Script is a pretty close copy of the Fender font and is readily available.

Walrus
29-06-2013, 06:18 AM
Quick question...when doing the decal on a colourless finish, should I put the decal on the bare wood - or do base coat first?

adam
29-06-2013, 07:38 AM
Hi Walrus,

I'll warn you, I'm by no means the expert on here, but DB can attest to my decal applying skills. I actually don't think it matters, but, logically, you would think that applying one or two coats before placing the decal would leave a smoother surface for the decal to adhere to. Then finish off with as many coats as necessary on top.

Andyport
29-06-2013, 10:59 AM
Totally agree Adam, base coat first.
I earn my living applying decals (signwriter), and would recommend giving the headstock a couple of coats before applying any decals.
It will give a better surface for the decals to adhere to, and minimise any chances of lifting when the top coats are applied.

Walrus
29-06-2013, 12:55 PM
Cheers guys.

SIMpleONe89
15-08-2013, 08:39 AM
Hi guys how would I go about creating a decal for a black background ala Gibson headstock style? How exactly would you print a white font on decal paper?

Gavin1393
15-08-2013, 09:05 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from SIMpleONe89 on August 14, 2013, 16:39
Hi guys how would I go about creating a decal for a black background ala Gibson headstock style? How exactly would you print a white font on decal paper?

Use white decal paper?

Brendan
15-08-2013, 11:20 AM
Dumb idea -
1. - white decal paper and do your logo as a negative (void) on a black background that would cover the whole headstock, then trim to the size of your headstock - that way you have a consistent layer / thickness
2. - get a signwriter to print it for you
3. - get a bigger than normal white truss rod cover & put it on that
4. - model paints & a steady hand
5. - talk with AJ re: his headstock...
6. - inlay.

Scott J.
23-08-2013, 04:51 AM
Printing White Decals for Black Headstock ...

I'm playing around with this at the moment as I've put a black veneer cap on the head of my SG (under construction) and need a white decal myself ... its not as easy as it may seem, but not impossible

- Laser and Ink printers are fine for colours BUT they don't print white (oh well there's the easy option out of the way!)

- If you can find a commercial printer with an old ALPS printer (they can print opaque white) they'll be able to do it but have heard that those machines are real buggers to work with and most are getting rid of them these days (so if anyone does happen to find one, please let me know!)

- a good screen printer (and I mean a GOOD screen printer!) should be able to print you up your decals using the right ink and not make the resulting decal too "thick" (so it doesn't "feel" under the varnish) but this option will be pretty expensive as they'll have to create a screen especially for your print (not a cheap exercise unless your planning on producing hundreds of the buggers!)

- there's always inlay method if you've got plenty of patience and an even steadier hand

I've tracked down a printer here in Sydney that's giving it a go for me but I've yet to see any results - if it works out I'll certainly pass the details and info along to the community ... but if anyone comes up with any workable options or information, I'm all ears!

gavinturner
24-08-2013, 09:57 AM
Hi Scott
see my 12 string build in non pitbull gear.
For a couple of bucks you can get a good white decal produced at www.best-decals.com.

http://www.best-decals.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30&products_id=937

That's what I used anyway and I'm very happy with the results.
Hope this helps..

Cheers,
Gavin.

Brendan
24-08-2013, 10:32 AM
Looks like Gavin has the winner!

Scott J.
24-08-2013, 10:14 PM
OH yes, Gav you've nailed it!!! ... Thanks for that, it'll sure save the rest of us a whole lot of screwing around!!!

Muchos gracias, amigo!

That's what I love about the PBG community - there's always someone out there who'll have the answer you need and gladly give it ... you just have to ask the right question! :D

AJ
25-08-2013, 03:07 PM
I used Clear Laser label, reversed printed the out line, then gold leafed in between the lines, then sealed that with a light mist coat of clear lacquer, then added a few drops of pva glue to the water to soak the decal, then reverse laid the decal.. came up reasonably well. trick is to use thin black outline, and "paint the white color in side the outline.. use a white enamel paint , something like those little humbol paints would be suitable for what you need.
hope that helps.

Andyport
25-08-2013, 09:44 PM
There are a number of ways to tackle white (or light) coloured lettering on a dark headstock.
Most common would be to apply self-adhesive computer cut vinyl lettering....as Gavin did.
These are readily available from your local sign shop....support your local guy....you'll have more input into the design.
Apply it over top of your finished headstock....as long as no polish has been applied, then it won't stick.
The vinyl is very durable and sticks really well...be careful when cleaning though not to catch any corners of the letters with your cloth.
You can apply first and clear coat over it, but you do have to be careful, and because vinyl lettering is a lot thicker than waterslide decals, it would be difficult getting a dead smooth finish without "feeling" the lettering under the clear coats.
But as no one here uses a spray gun and the dreaded unmentionable :? ... apply your decal over your finish!!

Tim
25-09-2013, 12:41 PM
Just wanted to share my recent water slide decal experience.
Ordered the lazerjet decal paper.
While waiting for this to arrive I put together my guitar logo for MIDNIGHT.
paper arrived looked it over read the info all very straight forward
Had to go see my printing lady for some work jobs so took over my paper and got her to print out for me..happy times
She had never seen this paper before so of she went read the instructions , all good.
TIM grabs a sheet out hands it over in and out of the printer , looks great.. more happy times
Now I am back at my desk neck layed out head all cleaned up ready for application . Bowl of water (cold water) first logo cut out in it goes............
Waiting waiting waiting . Nothing...mmmmmmm
Read the instructions again (soak decal in luke warm water ..ohh ok then..
New bowl of water cut out another logo (I had printed a whole page of logos) soak new logo in luke warm water...
Waitnig waiting waiting ..nothing...
Now I am getting a bit POed at this stage looking for an email on the packaging to abuse someone for sending me crap paper.
Third time the charm new logo new water held my tounge in a different direction.
Decal goes in and I wait............. Nothing
Start to have frequent outbursts #@$!
Not a happy camper by this stage..
Come on Tim its not that hard you built plenty of car models as a kid you can do these decals with your eyes closed.
Grab the sheet start cutting out fourth logo
While cutting and mumbling happen to notice something diferent on one of the other sheets
Mmmmm
Drag out all the other sheets and lay them out with my now cut up logo sheet.
Strange my logo sheet is a different colour.
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh penny drops
Some numb skull ie ME
Had handed over a piece of backing card for printing.
Needless to say was feeling some what stupid at this stage
The missus had a great old laugh as did my printing lady when I went back over to get the right piece printed..
Needless to say all things worked out on my first attempt with the right paper and it looks great

Scott J.
26-09-2013, 01:38 PM
Very sad story Tim, I'm sure we (the PBG community) are all commiserating with you ... well, I'm sure we will be once we stop laughing and pick ourselves up off the floor! :D

Not trying to tub it in, but my recent decal experience (today in fact!) .. went like a dream.

Having done a black veneer-capped headstock for the SG (build diary - "SG's SG") I needed a white "name" ... and to leave it unnamed would just be criminal! So of course I started investigating getting white decals printed ... Not too much to ask one would think? I wouldn't have thought so either, after all the decal paper is so readily available ... until I tried to find someone who could print white! (see previous post on this thread) ... after making so many phone calls to find printer who could manage white (without having to go to the exhorbitant extent of screen printing) that I think I paid Telstra's entire annual holiday pay bill, I was just about to give up and go with cut vinyl lettering ...

... and then I discovered a Sydney company Nova Sublimation.

These guys sell a whole range of printing papers, inks, etc., etc. ... and just on a chance I gave them a ring to see if they could recommend someone and it turns out they do a whole variety of printing themselves! Had my prayers been answered? ... you bet they had!!!

I took them the artwork files I had created (so there was no artwork for them to do - saves good bucks) and in 15 minutes I had two A4 sheets of decals (of varying designs) of the crispest and sharpest solid white printing anyone could ask for, and the cost? ... $11 per sheet!!! ($10 +GST) ... considering that each A4 fits about 45 separate decals - I've got at least the next few years of PBG kits covered! (Adam - I hope you plan to keep your stocks up? - I've got a lot of decals to use! :D )

And the quality? ... I couldn't asked for better! (see pics following) ... actually I did put a couple of large versions on each sheet (for guitar case, etc.) so the Lap Top got "branded" as well (as a test run).

Short of it is ... if you want decals printed (especially in white) and you're in Sydney or on the east-coast (or anywhere really as these guys do on-line sales), I'd thoroughly recommend getting in touch with these guys - really good service, top price and nice blokes to deal with ... and they even do full-body multi-colour graphics as well (apparently a couple of Sydney-based luthiers use them already) if you can create an art file of it (Corel, Adobe, GIMP, etc.), they can print it!

Nova Sublimation Aust. (www.novasublimation.com.au & www.decalpaper.com.au) ... or give Toby Warne a call (02) 8332 3042 ... oh, and they don't print on the backing cardboard unless you ask them (Sorry Tim :D )
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/tk2dh-Pharquew-Headstock.jpg
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/po072-Pharquew-Laptop.jpg

Tim
27-09-2013, 10:41 PM
Logo looks great Scott, and am glad you found humour in my stupidity..
My printing lady was still laughing about it the other day when I went to get some plans printed.
:)

Scott J.
28-09-2013, 05:01 AM
Thanks Tim ... I'm quite happy with them (especially as it worked out so well first time ... for once!)
I only laugh in sympathy ... because, unfortunately, I personally relate so much to that area of the "human condition" (i.e. dumb mistakes! ) ... but yes, laugh I did! :D

gavinturner
29-09-2013, 03:22 AM
Logo looks great Scott.
I will give them a try on my next build.
Did they have the logo paper already? Do I just have to prepare an a4 printable file for them?

cheers,
Gavin.

dingobass
29-09-2013, 04:35 PM
Thanks for the laugh Mr Tim.... you Numpty :)
I bet Miss Linda is still laughing

wokkaboy
30-09-2013, 07:42 AM
Here's our new logo on a water slide decal on a new headstock for the marri strat, about time we got a logo on the headstocks !!
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/88wa7-IMG_2417.jpg

stan
30-09-2013, 10:32 AM
wow wokka, that looks the biz

wokkaboy
30-09-2013, 11:33 AM
Cheers Stan, we wanted a simple logo and happy how it turned out, about an hour mucking around on paintshop and traced the outline on autocad to get a thicker line. Enjoying working with veneers on headstocks too !

keloooe
30-09-2013, 12:01 PM
looks great when applied there Woks!

Scott J.
30-09-2013, 02:20 PM
Hi Gav,

Yes Nova Sub have the paper (and sell it online too) and are fully set-up as commercial printers too (i.e. Sublimiation Printing is their main business).

I knocked my design up on Corel Draw and gave them the .cdr file to print directly from (which maintained maximum detail and clarity rather than then exporting to another file format) but they did say that they can even print them from pdf (although having white text on white paper in pdf is really going to work is it! :D) and should be able to handle most file formats ... though best to speak with them if you're using an exotic graphics program.

If you've got it hand-drawn they can always scan it in and take it from their though you might have to pay a little extra for "artwork" charges ... still, depending on size you should be able to fit an average of 35-40 04 more decals on a single A4 sheet (and the printing charge was $10 for the sheet including the paper so it'll still be cheap "per decal" even with some "artwork" charges, unless you get them to do a whole of work)

Scott J.
30-09-2013, 02:21 PM
Nice logo there Woks ... looks great on the blonde head!

highace10
04-10-2013, 10:40 AM
Here's a tip for those Pitbull decal users. This product is called Micro Sol. Its a decal setting solution that is mainly used in the scale modelling scene. It allows the decal to conform to different shapes and basically makes the decal look painted on.

For the best results, I first apply Micro Sol to the prepared the surface. Make sure the surface is free of particles that could get under the decal's film and cause a blemish. Then, when everything is dry enough that the decal will not move easily, apply Micro Sol with a small flat brush. Apply with as few strokes as possible so a not to disturb the decal. Then allow the decal to dry without disturbing it. One application is enough in most cases, but if necessary, a second application of Micro Sol can be helpful.

You can pick this stuff up from decent hobby shops.
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/4039d-sol.jpg

wokkaboy
06-10-2013, 04:00 PM
Got some headstocks logo'd bit of an art to apllying the decals but practice is gold
http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/iq3nd-2013-10-05-22.06.11.jpg

stan
24-10-2013, 08:31 AM
lookin' good wokks

kells80aus
15-02-2014, 03:08 AM
Found a gibson font, but they want money so we can counterfiet our guitars . something oddly wrong about that lol

http://www.myfonts.com/fonts/nicksfonts/gitfiddler-nf/

PK

bargeloobs
14-05-2014, 02:34 AM
Hey guys, just wondering if someone might be able to help me out here.
I'd originally planned on making a black waterslide decal of a logo I'd designed to go on the back of a bare timber headstock (just to be clear, when I say "bare timber" I mean natural, The headstock already had a light coat of lacquer)
So I bought some paper on ebay. They printed off beautifully, took the sealing lacquer no worries at all, seemed to stick to the headstock well, but as soon as I tried to cover it up with lacquer (nitro) it just started to lift. I tried this 3 times with the same problem each time.
So I've changed my whole plan of attack since then and have decided to go with a black painted stinger on the back of the headstock which means I now need white printing on a waterslide decal. Does anyone know of a solution for getting this done locally? I've come across a few blokes printing these in the States but they're dear as poison and I'm thinkin' there must be people able to print these sort of decals a bit closer to home. I'm totally open to any suggestions regarding getting this design on here bearing in mind I've already tried a vinyl decal on the front of the headstock which disintegrated under the nitro.
Cheers in advance.
http://i.imgur.com/lXrXhyV.jpg

wokkaboy
14-05-2014, 03:03 AM
Hey Bargeloobs, I've always put the waterslide decal on before any clear coats, then I apply the clear coats ontop to protect it. Can't you print the logo in white and apply it on the colour coat before any clear coats ?
I'd get in touch with forum member Andyport has a sign printing company, he can probably give you a solution. Email him at citysigns@internode.on.net

bargeloobs
14-05-2014, 03:29 AM
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on May 13, 2014, 11:03
Hey Bargeloobs, I've always put the waterslide decal on before any clear coats, then I apply the clear coats ontop to protect it. Can't you print the logo in white and apply it on the colour coat before any clear coats ?
I'd get in touch with forum member Andyport has a sign printing company, he can probably give you a solution. Email him at citysigns@internode.on.net

So you're saying you lay the logo on bare unfinished timber before shooting clear? I'm not saying it's not the way because obviously it works for you but everything I've read about covering waterslides with nitro is you need to lay a light layer of nitro on the surface before the decal goes down.
I tried sticking a waterslide straight to my bare headstock overlay, shot it with clear and it left the outline of the waterslide really visible and eventually started to lift.
Also average printers don't print in white hence the reason I need a professional.
I definitely give Andyport a try, thanks heaps Wokks!

wokkaboy
14-05-2014, 03:52 AM
Bargeloobs I know nothing about using nitro and decal stickers, so Andy should be able to help. I've been applying them after stain coats and using wudtone or tru oil clear over and been getting good results, although the clear part of the sticker is pretty obvious.
Last 6 or 8 headstocks I've used Andy has made some 4D Guitars vinyl stickers and they look excellent and there's no clear backing
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/zw314-2014-03-30-01.18.59.jpg

Gavin1393
14-05-2014, 06:10 AM
Andyport is the go-to guy in all things decal!

Give him a holler!

wokkaboy
14-05-2014, 06:22 AM
I'm catching you Gav, I'm only 48 posts behind mate !

bargeloobs
14-05-2014, 06:37 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Gavin1393 on May 13, 2014, 14:10
Andyport is the go-to guy in all things decal!

Give him a holler!

Yep...done, cheers Gav, Wokks!

Andyport
14-05-2014, 06:50 AM
Hi Bargeloobs

Don't know if I will be of much help really.
My wide format sign printer doesn't print white.
The lettering in your logo is way too small to vinyl cut...the only way is to print it.
Not sure why you are having trouble spraying lacquer coats over the waterslide decals.
I did it on my JM-1 headstock, although I was used Acrylic Auto Lacquer not Nitro.
I just sprayed down a few base coats, let it dry for a few days, then wet sanded completely smooth.
Printed the black waterslide decal, used the same Acrylic Lacquer to seal it, applied to headstock.
Let it dry off, then built up the top coats by misting them on.
Once it is completely sealed, then you can lay the coats on heavier.
You can just see a slight outline of the waterslide paper, more of a slightly different tint to it.
It came up really nice, and it is there to stay...won't be going anywhere!

I do have a contact in the sign industry with a new printer that can do white, but whether the white is solid enough to go over black and totally block it out, I don't know. But I will have to get back to you on that.

Sorry I can't help more.
Cheers
Andy

bargeloobs
14-05-2014, 07:11 AM
Hey thanks for taking the time to drop some info Andy.
I couldn't really figure out why it wasn't sticking either, I'd recently done a resto on a Tele of mine and put a new decal on a Mighty Mite neck using pretty much the exact same process you've outlined (but with nitro) and it worked sweet as.
The only thing I can think of is the decal paper I bought is dud.
No worries man, I've got a dude in the States who does mostly modelling stuff making me up a decal for the front (as pictured), if it works out I'll just have to get him to do another one for the back.
I just wanted to see if I could get it done a bit closer to home to cut down on costs and handling times but never to mind.
At least waiting round for stuff to turn up from the States will give my finish a chance to cure.
Thanks heaps,

Nige.


http://i.imgur.com/P2yWqvL.jpg

wokkaboy
14-05-2014, 07:28 AM
sounds like the decal paper may be dodgy Nigel. Why don't you try and experiment applying the paper using a different finish ?

Andyport
14-05-2014, 07:28 AM
My only other thought on the lacquer issue was, were you allowing the nitro coats to dry of properly between coats?
If you lay on too many wet coats, there is a definite risk of it reacting with the decal and it will bubble.

Would love to be able to print white like that, but you're talking big dollars when it comes to printers for our industry. Sorry I couldn't help more...you would think there must be someone out there in this big wide land of ours that can do this, hey. Hope you get on alright with this guy in the States. BTW your design looks good.

All the best
Andy

bargeloobs
14-05-2014, 07:42 AM
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from wokkaboy on May 13, 2014, 15:28
sounds like the decal paper may be dodgy Nigel. Why don't you try and experiment applying the paper using a different finish ?

Yeah good idea, I've got some poly laying round from my last build, I'll try that on an old neck and see what happens.

wokkaboy
14-05-2014, 07:48 AM
thats what I try and do Nigel, narrow down the problem till you nail it !

bargeloobs
14-05-2014, 07:50 AM
Well I thought I was giving it sufficient time but who knows, I'll keep playin' round on some test pieces and see if I can figure it out.
Holy sh#t, I know what you're saying regarding the cost of printing gear, I was looking at a few different things just out of curiosity and yeah, that stuff ain't cheap.
Apparently this guy can go over the decal a few times to get the white (it is white, not green like in the pic) really vivid and bright so I've just gotta hope I can get it to stick.
Cheers.

stan
15-06-2014, 08:59 AM
Just on professional decals, I have a Fender Tele, a Japanese one, and if you hold the neck on the right angle you can see the outline of the decal. Everything is fully original; so even the pros are not super pedantic about their decals...

ponch
15-06-2014, 01:10 PM
So is there any official word where we can get white decals printed?

gavinturner
16-07-2014, 01:10 AM
hi Andrew,

My recommendation is to speak with Andy (forum's AndyPort) @ City Signs and Print. He'll be able to print a white vinyl decal for you. email: citysigns AT internode.on.net

Many of our builds are now sporting white headstock decals by Andy. :)

cheers,
Gav.

corsair
21-10-2016, 06:48 PM
Now, this is interesting. I've had a bit to do with waterslides over the years with mixed success.

The guitar I'm re-visiting presently is being re-visited because I was never happy with the headstock decals, which I printed up and applied with no dramas but as soon as I applied the clear, the bastard things crazed up and at that stage I left it as it was, knowing that one day I'd re-do it!

So the headstock has been sanded back and carted off to a genius airbrush artist to have the graphics blown on!

Anyway, I still need a decal done in metallic gold and am having no luck getting anyone local, or indeed Qld, interested and even Rothco and Frost have not answered my queries, so dies anyone have a suggestion? My painter guru reckons he cannot do it justice as it does look pretty complex - it's the Rising Sun emblem of the AIF in WW2....

wazkelly
21-10-2016, 08:09 PM
Take a photograph of the emblem against either a white or black background and then print in colour on decal transfer paper. White background should come out clear whilst black will come out, well, black of course, just in case you wanted a black faced head stock and then trim the edges and tuning peg holes. Saves all the mucking about with a smaller decal that always stands out under no matter how many top coats.

stan
22-10-2016, 08:30 AM
Awesome idea waz, full faced decal, dont have to smother it in clear....

Dedman
22-10-2016, 09:31 AM
Screen printing is the best sticker you will ever get, however it is expensive on single or small runs. you are looking at a set up and screen cost for each colour.

DrNomis_44
14-03-2017, 04:54 PM
The urls that Adam posted in this thread are going to be very useful to me, once I get round to getting the headstock design for my Gold Strat finalized, I'm going to have to order some Waterslide Decal paper soon, which reminds me, I'll also need a couple of new ink cartridges for my printer too.

kel1985
17-06-2017, 02:02 AM
I swear I saw this question answered before, but for the life of me I can't find it, so I thought I'd ask the experts...
Can you use tru oil over a waterslide decal?
If so, are there any pitfalls I need to be aware of.

Thanks in advance.

wazkelly
17-06-2017, 10:38 PM
Hi Kel, Tru Oil goes over most things once they have been left to dry for a while.

Pitfalls.....if you trim the decal you may see edge lines at certain angles and would recommend cutting out the transfer just a little bit bigger than the headstock face and trim that back once it has dried. The end result should be much smoother and uniform looking. Easy to trim the tuner holes too by using a drill bit by hand or with a box cutter knife.

Cheers, Waz

kel1985
18-06-2017, 12:31 AM
Thanks Waz!!!

JohnH
11-12-2017, 05:23 PM
Screen printing is the best sticker you will ever get, however it is expensive on single or small runs. you are looking at a set up and screen cost for each colour.

+1 for screenprinted decals. You can't go past a screenprint, but the cost racks up if you're paying someone else. We charge something like $60 - $80 per screen just for the set-up, then $85 per hour for printing. I've been thinking for awhile I should make a little PDF how-to instruction booklet, because it's not hard (or expensive) to set up at home - just requires some trial and error (but so does building guitars, so we're clearly all ok with that)

EDIT: Also, printing very detailed text and images in a completely opaque white is pretty easy with a screen

Hardcoretroubadour
24-04-2018, 09:16 AM
Alright, I am thinking of doing a logo or script on my headstock, what programs are you currently using to do this? Oh yeah, I am a complete Luddite when it comes to computer stuff, so it needs to be easy to use. Thinking of using water slide decals for the head stock
Cheers
Brendan

FrankenWashie
24-04-2018, 11:03 AM
At its rudest, you can use word to print text via a laser jet or inkjet printer with specialty decal paper.
i have used Adobe Illustrator, others have designed stuff and had it professionally printed by folks like Rothko and Frost.
depebd on what you are trying to do and how fancy you want to get.

pablopepper
24-04-2018, 11:36 AM
In a pinch, you can use Word or any other word processing program. Check out https://www.dafont.com/ to find a font you like the look of, download the ZIP folder, unzip it (usually available with a right click on the folder) and transfer the .ttf file into the fonts folder of your computer. This will let you type in the font you have just downloaded, then print out your script in a variety of different sizes (on plain paper first) to figure out what size suits your headstock. After that, print out on decal paper and you are on your way.

Some script fonts work a whole lot better than others. If you need help tidying one up, let me know and I can do it for you.

Hardcoretroubadour
24-04-2018, 12:35 PM
Cheers Pablopepper, I think that even I can follow those instructions :)