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24-10-2012, 07:04 AM
From today's fun and games in the dMac bunker:


Do you use adhesive copper on your guitar to shield against interference?

Do you ground that shielding?

In a shielded pickup rout or control cavity, do you put a bit of solder between the pieces of shielding to make a clean electrical contact? (a shielding - adhesive - shielding sandwich may not have good connectivity.)

If you have shielded the scratch plate, do you leave a piece of shielding from the on top of the body from the pickup or control rout in "a position of tight fit", so there is an electrical contact between the two?

When you think about it, it makes perfect sense. If you don't give the interference you're shielding against somewhere to go, it will go where it wants to, and the job is only half done.

Doing this little bit of extra work has cured more problems than it's created.

pablopepper
24-10-2012, 10:24 PM
Hey Dmac,

I've been considering using conductive shielding paint over the copper tape method. Do you have any experience with that?

I'm finding it quite difficult to obtain, but my pickup routs don't have much play and I can foresee a lot of swearing and sliced fingertips if I use adhesive copper.

Cheers.

25-10-2012, 12:25 AM
Quote from pablopepper on October 24, 2012, 07:24
Hey Dmac,

I've been considering using conductive shielding paint over the copper tape method. Do you have any experience with that?

I'm finding it quite difficult to obtain, but my pickup routs don't have much play and I can foresee a lot of swearing and sliced fingertips if I use adhesive copper.

Cheers.

I agree with you, Pablo- it's almost impossible to find here. I understand it's considered a paint, and like most paints it's not on the safe goods list for air freight. Places like StewMac don't ship it. And to get enough by sea, you need to buy a container load. Sometimes it's not good being in Austalia...

I used it when I was in the States (on a non-musical mission), and found that to be 100% effective it still had to be grounded in one way or another.

As my old mentor said- remember that interference is some sort of electrical interference (radio being electrical too) so it needs to be bled off. If the choice is between missing a bit and proper grounding...

I manage in pickup routes with my little finger which isn't so little, and being gentle and not rushing. We're talking about adhesive copper, and it's more like sticky tape than a sheet of copper, and I've never had an injury.

dingobass
25-10-2012, 08:39 AM
Hi dMac and Pablo.

You can get shielding paint fron Australian Luthiers Supplies in Brisbane. http://luthierssupplies.com.au

Also I seem to remember there being no problems getting it from Stewmac, (at least they don't say you can't get it sent by airmail, unlike other paint products they sell which all have cannot be shipped by air statements) and I am certain a mate of mine here in Perth got his from Stewmac recently, but I will check with him to confirm or deny.

There is no question that a complete sheilding job makes all the difference. I do it to every build and never get any of those annoying hums.
I also apply a dab of solder to all the joins just to make sure!

pablopepper
26-10-2012, 05:20 AM
Thanks Dingobass,

I ended up finding a seller on eBay from the UK who has sent it to Australia before with no dramas, so I went with him. I did originally check out Australian Luthier Supplies, but as I'm not in a hurry, they would only supply a fairly large amount and were significantly more expensive I found an alternative. Same with Stewmac, cheaper, but minimum 1/2 pint.

As it stands, with the 60ml I got ($25ish incl. shipping), I'm hoping to have enough to do both guitars (my TL-1 kit and my Gibson which came with zero shielding and hums like a beehive) with some left over for future projects.

26-10-2012, 12:02 PM
This looks interesting.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GUITAR-SHIELD-KIT-SHIELDING-PAINT-COPPER-FOIL-PICKGUARD-NO-SOLDER-SAME-DAY-P-P-/181007035221?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2a24dc2b55

And I really have to work out how to put in a text description of the link.

Gavin1393
28-10-2012, 11:23 AM
I purchased Conductive Shielding paint from Stewmac 4 weeks ago. Arrived 4-5 days later!

29-10-2012, 01:02 AM
Quote from Gavin1393 on October 27, 2012, 20:23
I purchased Conductive Shielding paint from Stewmac 4 weeks ago. Arrived 4-5 days later!

(If I'm honest, Gavin, I'm not a fan- I prefer copper... Thanks for the info, tho! :D )

dingobass
01-11-2012, 02:50 AM
Quote from Gavin1393 on October 27, 2012, 20:23
I purchased Conductive Shielding paint from Stewmac 4 weeks ago. Arrived 4-5 days later!

(If I'm honest, Gavin, I'm not a fan- I prefer copper... Thanks for the info, tho! :D )[/quote]

I am with Dmac on this one. Copper all the way. And it looks pretty too! :D

Gavin1393
01-11-2012, 06:59 AM
I prefer copper too, was merely confirming that it (shielding paint) can be acquired from StewMac!
:D

dingobass
01-11-2012, 09:19 AM
Shielding paint can have its uses though... Sometimes you come across a really manky routing job on guitars that copper wont work on very well.. or a strange shaped cavity that is difficult to get tape into. These are the only times I use paint.

dingobass
04-11-2012, 11:11 PM
I should have added that sometimes when I run out of copper sheet, I use alfoil on the undersides of pick guards on Strats etc....
A light application of spray adhesive and on it goes...
Yes, it does work, just as long as you complete the circuit by having the cavity shielding touching the pickguard!

05-11-2012, 02:03 AM
Quote from dingobass on November 4, 2012, 08:11
I should have added that sometimes when I run out of copper sheet, I use alfoil on the undersides of pick guards on Strats etc....
A light application of spray adhesive and on it goes...
Yes, it does work, just as long as you complete the circuit by having the cavity shielding touching the pickguard!

In an emergency (meaning it was a cheap guitar) I've used aluminium tape as used in aircon (?). Worked well enough (well enough meaning the customer didn't complain about noise.)

dingobass
05-11-2012, 02:21 AM
Never thought about using air con tape...
Just goes to show that there is always another way!

I agree with dMac in that it is only ever used in an emergency, and when I get more copper in I like to replace the alfoil

ncass81
29-11-2012, 10:18 AM
ok guys, when im going to earth my bridge i figured i may as well do some shielding. im here to learn so what parts should i shield besides the pickup cavaties, should ialso shield the control cavatiy as well?

dingobass
29-11-2012, 01:07 PM
Quote from ncass81 on November 28, 2012, 19:18
ok guys, when im going to earth my bridge i figured i may as well do some shielding. im here to learn so what parts should i shield besides the pickup cavaties, should ialso shield the control cavatiy as well?

Hi Nick.
The answer to your question is yes.
Remember to also shield the cover as well and solder all of your joins. You only need a dab of solder here and there just to make sure that all of the pieces of tape are electrically connected.
Also make sure that you overlap the tape onto the cut out where the cover plate sits.

ncass81
29-11-2012, 09:56 PM
Ok coll, what about the switch

dingobass
29-11-2012, 10:34 PM
Quote from ncass81 on November 29, 2012, 06:56
Ok coll, what about the switch

If you can, go for it! :D

29-11-2012, 10:48 PM
Sorry, double post.

29-11-2012, 10:48 PM
Quote from ncass81 on November 29, 2012, 06:56
Ok coll, what about the switch

The switch is already grounded as part of the pickup/volume/tone wiring. It doesn't have to be directly grounded (like it is in an LP), it just has to be in the circuit where there is ground (like in an ST).

You'll probably get more mileage if you want to be ultra-thorough by using shielded wire for long runs, especially if you are using high-output pickups. dingobass probably does it, and I do too. That would be for example to and from the switch and to the jack on an LP-style.

dingobass
30-11-2012, 09:26 AM
Quote from dmac on November 29, 2012, 07:48

Quote from ncass81 on November 29, 2012, 06:56
Ok coll, what about the switch

The switch is already grounded as part of the pickup/volume/tone wiring. It doesn't have to be directly grounded (like it is in an LP), it just has to be in the circuit where there is ground (like in an ST).

You'll probably get more mileage if you want to be ultra-thorough by using shielded wire for long runs, especially if you are using high-output pickups. dingobass probably does it, and I do too. That would be for example to and from the switch and to the jack on an LP-style.

Well spotted dMac! I do use shielded wire for my long runs and I should have mentioned that to Nick 8-)

keloooe
05-03-2013, 03:32 AM
Quote from dingobass on October 24, 2012, 17:39
Hi dMac and Pablo.

You can get shielding paint fron Australian Luthiers Supplies in Brisbane. http://luthierssupplies.com.au

Also I seem to remember there being no problems getting it from Stewmac, (at least they don't say you can't get it sent by airmail, unlike other paint products they sell which all have cannot be shipped by air statements) and I am certain a mate of mine here in Perth got his from Stewmac recently, but I will check with him to confirm or deny.

There is no question that a complete sheilding job makes all the difference. I do it to every build and never get any of those annoying hums.
I also apply a dab of solder to all the joins just to make sure!


Yea, it doesnt say that StewMac can't send the paint here by airmail...

Bass Guy
18-03-2013, 12:49 AM
I am pretty sure StewMac sell copper tape in a variety of widths. That is the avenue I will be investigating for my builds.

dingobass
18-03-2013, 04:10 AM
Quote from Bass Guy on March 17, 2013, 09:49
I am pretty sure StewMac sell copper tape in a variety of widths. That is the avenue I will be investigating for my builds.

Yep, they sure do....

They also stock shielding kits that have enough copper sheet and tape to shield just about any guitar.
This may be a less expensive option for most folk.

GlennGP
18-03-2013, 08:32 AM
Quote from dingobass on March 17, 2013, 13:10

Quote from Bass Guy on March 17, 2013, 09:49
I am pretty sure StewMac sell copper tape in a variety of widths. That is the avenue I will be investigating for my builds.

Yep, they sure do....

They also stock shielding kits that have enough copper sheet and tape to shield just about any guitar.
This may be a less expensive option for most folk.

I'm getting the "large" shielding kit from Stewmac, which should have enough materials for my own TL-1 and the next one I'm building for a friend. Certainly seems like an economical approach.

Gavin1393
18-03-2013, 02:45 PM
I took a chance recently and got some good adhesive copper at a very good price from this company one-bay.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/greenhouse408?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Walrus
16-05-2013, 03:18 AM
Quote from Gavin1393 on March 17, 2013, 23:45
I took a chance recently and got some good adhesive copper at a very good price from this company one-bay.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/greenhouse408?_trksid=p4340.l2563

I've seen this product as well, just curious about the 50mm x 4m product they have (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4m-Adhesive-Copper-Foil-EMI-Shield-Tape-Conductive-50mm-width-LI-/170926763780?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item27cc076f04) - is that plenty for one ST-1?

Gavin1393
16-05-2013, 06:38 AM
It's probably enough for two!

dingobass
16-05-2013, 09:10 AM
4 meters should do three!

Gavin1393
16-05-2013, 09:42 AM
Quote from dingobass on May 15, 2013, 18:10
4 meters should do three!

DB is right. it should do three but only two if you let it go at the wrong time and it wraps itself into a tube which you cannot unstick! Anticipate that there might be a learning curve to effective use!

dingobass
16-05-2013, 10:21 AM
And possibly a few minor cuts to the fingers :)

Brendan
16-05-2013, 10:41 AM
Also found some cheap sheets (simplify pickguards).
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300mm-x-200mm-Guitar-Pickup-Self-Adhesive-Copper-Foil-Tape-Shielding-/290904054023?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43bb3b9907

Will let you know how it goes.

AJ
17-05-2013, 01:28 AM
For info, J-Car sell rolls of aluminum shielding tape in large rolls, sized from around 3/4" through to 2" wide. quite cheap. It will do exactly the same job as the copper shielding, the only real difference is it wont get the greenish corrosion blemish if polish etc gets on it.

dingobass
17-05-2013, 04:21 AM
Aluminium does work... sort of. The only problem with it is you cant easily spot solder the sheets together to ensure a good conductive path.
It is great for under pick guards and the back of control cavity plates.

DanMade
10-02-2014, 02:21 AM
I have a large roll of this insulation tape. I checked with a multimeter and it has the same conductivity as copper shielding tape. That's if I checked it properly. I'm a complete noob when it comes to electrical.

It's the tape you would normally use when installing insulation. The reflective tin type mostly used in sheds a commercial buildings.

Is there any reason this tape wouldn't work for shielding cavity's. Other than the fact you can't spot solder it. It's a 2 1/2 in. wide roll so there wouldn't need to be many joins.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/81837-image.jpg

lawry
10-02-2014, 02:39 AM
Being unable to solder it is not a major problem. You can always put a small screw through it and squash down the wire under its head. The only problem I can see is whether there will be continuity between the layers. Just check that the adhesive does not act as an insulator. If it does, then maybe you can screw each layer together at one point with a small screw too.