Should I replace/add some inlays?

[Groovyman32]

I'm currently tackling my first build - and I'm having a blast. I'm about to enter the sanding phase before finishing.

My neck seems to have the dots painted on:

39328

Which is fine - I understand these kits are made to a price.

But I'd like to replace them with something else - I'm guessing with any kind of sanding they will come off or fade anyway.

I don't have a drill press so would be drilling the holes with a power drill, tape and brad point bit.

My main concern is actually finishing the inlay flush with the board once glued in place. But the Pitbull video makes this seem okay - I've got some needle files and fine sand paper.

Am I crazy to attempt this on my first build? Am I getting over confident? Or is it easier that it seems? :confused:

[fender3x]

I have never seen painted on dots, although I supposed it's possible. The dots I have gotten on Pitbull necks (as well as on other aftermarket necks) are made of plastic and are a fairly cheap in lay.

If you want to replace them, there is a some Youtube and other info on how to do it here:

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=2584

I have not changed out my dots...but I have thought about it. I actually got as far as purchasing some dots. I stared to drill one out, and it actually popped out before I drilled all the way through it. That was fortuitous, because I realized that the dots I had purchased were less than half as think as the plastic dot I had just removed.

In my case, because I had not drilled all the way through the dot and it had popped out clean, I was able to just turn it over and glue it back in.

Dots generally come in two sizes 6mm and 1/4". The Putbull dots are generally 6mm, I think. If you are committed to changing out the dots, I would wait to purchase your dots until you have popped one out. You want them to be the same depth as the hole or slightly thicker so that you can sand them flat.

[McCreed]

I have never seen painted on dots, although I supposed it's possible. The dots I have gotten on Pitbull necks (as well as on other aftermarket necks) are made of plastic and are a fairly cheap in lay.

This is my experience as well. I've only done one PBG kit with a maple neck, but I'm quite confident saying the fret markers are not painted on. Also, IME maple fretboards shouldn't require any significant sanding (if any at all) unless there is some defect that needs fixing.

[FrankenWashie]

Am I crazy to attempt this on my first build? Am I getting over confident? Or is it easier that it seems? :confused:

I believe I currently hold the gold standard on crazy things to do on your first build..see link
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=4846&highlight=FrankeWashie%92s

Normally for Inlay, the dots or whatever are laid into the board prior to radius addition and adding of frets (Often before slotting).

That will allow you to add sufficient thickness to be able to profile the board smooth. The pitfall of doing it on a profiled board with frets in place is that you either end up with a dot sitting proud or slightly recessed. The frets also restrict your working room, especially once you move up to the higher frets.
You can sand a proud dot back but you may also mar the board or make a localised depression around it from sanding it flat.
All that said, it is a matter of personal choice, if it is something you want to do, then do it. Consider what I’ve detailed above and plan accordingly.
Check what thickness of dots or markers you can get so you know how deep you need to drill etc.
Experiment on scrap to find a working method that will allow you to abrade a proud dot without damaging or marking the board.
Mask off with masking tape to tell you when you are getting close so that you ease up.
FOr low dots you might be able to use an acrylic or epoxy resin to fill the gap and then sand that back.

It’s all about finding a way to do things. That is the part of this whole lark that I really enjoy.

I say HAVE AT IT! 😜

[Groovyman32]

Thanks guys,


I have never seen painted on dots, although I supposed it's possible.

I think they're painted on you can see the wood grain in the dots. This is really obvious if you zoom in on the picture I posted.

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I guess they could be wooden inlays?

I've ordered some 6mm black mother of pearl dots - they're only a few quid for a set of 12 so that gives me a couple to practice with. I guess I can use the scrap headstock material.

I guess I've got giddy over my successful ferrule drilling so I'm taking a moment to make sure I'm not attempting something that will be way beyond my skill level.

But unless you do something you don't learn how to do it!

[FrankenWashie]

Thanks guys,



I think they're painted on you can see the wood grain in the dots. This is really obvious if you zoom in on the picture I posted.

39347

I guess they could be wooden inlays?

I've ordered some 6mm black mother of pearl dots - they're only a few quid for a set of 12 so that gives me a couple to practice with. I guess I can use the scrap headstock material.

I guess I've got giddy over my successful ferrule drilling so I'm taking a moment to make sure I'm not attempting something that will be way beyond my skill level.

But unless you do something you don't learn how to do it!

They are likely plastic dots inlaid. The grain to them is likely factory sanding marks. Black mother of pearl will be sweet with the maple.

[McCreed]

They are likely plastic dots inlaid. The grain to them is likely factory sanding marks.

FrankenWashie beat me to it. Looks like sanding marks to me as well. If you're keen on doing the mod though, go for it!

[Groovyman32]

What's the best way to remove the sanding marks, without trashing the radius? Wire wool maybe?

[FrankenWashie]

Maybe 6 or 800 grit paper on an eraser or small cork block. Very gentle strokes, only a couple at a time, checking frequently.

[Groovyman32]

Thanks - I might give that a whirl first before drilling out to see if I can get a cleaner look. Although the MOP will look nice :)

[McCreed]

Those factory sanding marks will be completely invisible once a clear coat goes on there.

I have never sanded them out of any maple board I've done. To be honest, I suppose I never even thought to because they weren't noticeable. (to my eyes)

[wazkelly]

Have you considered using a sticker kit?

On my J Bass I used Black Block Marker sticker kit and Tru Oiled over that. On my Swampy Tele went a bit crazier and used a metallic chrome sticker kit, again under Tru Oil. Both can be found in my signature under 4th & 5th builds.

Cheers, Waz

[Groovyman32]

Thanks - I’ll experiment and let you know.

How many coats of finish/tru-oil do you put on the board? Enough to seal it I would think?

[McCreed]

How many coats of finish/tru-oil do you put on the board? Enough to seal it I would think?

With maple I put as many coats on the fretboard as I put on the back whether I'm doing a hand applied finish (Tru Oil/wipe-on poly) or spraying lacquer or poly; satin or gloss.
You can do as many or as few as you want. Like many parts of guitar building, there's no set rules necessarily (mainly recommendations) and it depends on what you wish to achieve.

[fender3x]

I just sanded one of mine a bit. Gently as FW suggested. Mine was very close to flush so I just used a little 320. If it is very proud

I don't think you need to worry about the radius too much. You don't want an obvious flat spot, but most of the feel of the radius is the frets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JW9oDKmdVg0&list=PLS9PifayhVzSVnzRjOlWA2hlMEa4Wb-rw&index=110

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKXN7jryALw&list=PLS9PifayhVzSVnzRjOlWA2hlMEa4Wb-rw&index=108

Both these guys take off the top with a razor blade. I have used the same approach (with tape on the edges) to get rid of hardened drips in finish as well.

[Groovyman32]

The MOP dots arrived today - they are lush. I’m going to have to have a go at this :eek:

[McCreed]

The MOP dots arrived today - they are lush. I’m going to have to have a go at this :eek:

Cool! We learn by doing!
I've never done a full replacement, just repair or replace the odd dot. I look forward to seeing your process. Post pics!

[Groovyman32]

Job done - I’ll update my build diary with the full deets - but here is the preview:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210228/9f0c2e43713e2f7328eb92a525252a8e.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[fender3x]

Beautiful job! Cruising over the the deets now...

[Groovyman32]

Thanks! Haven’t updated the diary yet - coming soon!

[DarkMark]

Having seen your mop inlay job I can understand why someone would want to go to trouble of replacing the dots. Well worth the effort.

[Groovyman32]

Yeah - as long as you've got all the bits - needle file, fine sander paper and about 2 hours - it's not that big of a job. The dots themselves are a few pence/cents each.

I also understand that for a lot of ppl it's a pointless aesthetic.

However, I have used special "Tone Mother of Pearl" - so it's totally worth it!

[FrankenWashie]

Yeah - as long as you've got all the bits - needle file, fine sander paper and about 2 hours - it's not that big of a job. The dots themselves are a few pence/cents each.

I also understand that for a lot of ppl it's a pointless aesthetic.

However, I have used special "Tone Mother of Pearl" - so it's totally worth it!

But did you use resonant tone epoxy?🤣😜

[Groovyman32]

But did you use resonant tone epoxy?🤣😜

Not yet, but I'll put some on the back :D