Peavey 410TX Bass Cab.

[DrNomis_44]

Hey Everyone,

Thought that I would start a thread about my Peavey 410TX Bass Cab in the amp section.

Anyway, according to guy I bought the cab off of, he reckons I've got it fully paid-off, I've had a good look at the cab and from what I can determine only one of the original speakers is fully functional, the other three read open-circuit on my digital multimeter, so I'm going to have to buy four new replacements in order to get the cab working, and usable again, all the original acoustic dampening material needs removing and replacing cause it doesn't half pong, had to spray the insides with some air-freshener to make it bearable....but I digress...

Ok, so the original speakers are 10 inchers, I need four new replacements, from reading the back panel, the speaker cab is designed to handle at least 350 Watts RMS if my memory is correct, I'll have to check that.

Some pics:

38640

38641

38642

38643


One forum member has suggested that the Eminence Legend B102 could be a good replacement speaker for the originals, I just wished that Peavey had the foresight to print the make and model-number of the original speakers on the back of them, would have been so helpful when choosing the right replacement.

So, why am I interested in replacing all four of the original speakers?, I have a mid-70's Fender Super Twin amp which just happens to work really well as a Bass amp, the guy who sold it to me used it as a Bass amp for years and he told me that it worked great, I recently did a recording-session out at a mate's place, and the guy who sold the Super Twin to me, plugged his Fender P-Bass into it and used it for the recording session, sounded really good, I'm interested in using my Peavey 410TX Bass cab with my Super Twin amp so that I've got a good bass rig for recording or doing live gigs, I have a feeling that the Super Twin and the Peavey 410TX will sound really good together, once the cab is all sorted, so there's a good project for me to work-on in 2021, I may even look at building a solid-state Bass amp out of some bits and pieces I have in my studio room, there's a circuit board from an old Peavey TKO 80 non-eq Bass amp combo that has a good sounding preamp in it, I just need to ditch the 30 Watt power amp section and substitute a more powerful power amp circuit board, and then mount the lot, plus a power supply in a nice 19 inch rackmount case, and then I'll be in business.

[JimC]

Speakers in cabs from major manufacturers are often custom models, not something available off the shelf, so may well only be available from the original vendor. Apparently the original driver in that cab was a Sheffield TVX 1035. I would doubt its available. Its not listed on the Peavey Web site.

A cab doesn't intrinsically have a power rating, so you don't need to be concerned about that.

It would be useful to know whether the tweeter and crossover are functional, although TBH given the hard life this cab has obviously lived it might be safer to assume that they are scrap.

I'd be inclined to ask Eminence directly about good driver replacements, it was a common enough box back in the day. Or you could join Talkbass and ask. Is it a sealed cabinet rather than ported? If so driver choice is a bit less critical, you just need to measure up the cabinet volume and find something recommended for that region.

[DrNomis_44]

Speakers in cabs from major manufacturers are often custom models, not something available off the shelf, so may well only be available from the original vendor. Apparently the original driver in that cab was a Sheffield TVX 1035. I would doubt its available. Its not listed on the Peavey Web site.

A cab doesn't intrinsically have a power rating, so you don't need to be concerned about that.

It would be useful to know whether the tweeter and crossover are functional, although TBH given the hard life this cab has obviously lived it might be safer to assume that they are scrap.

I'd be inclined to ask Eminence directly about good driver replacements, it was a common enough box back in the day. Or you could join Talkbass and ask. Is it a sealed cabinet rather than ported? If so driver choice is a bit less critical, you just need to measure up the cabinet volume and find something recommended for that region.


The Peavey 410TX cab I have does have a port on the back of it, as can be seen in the pics I've posted, to be honest, I haven't checked the tweeter to see if it is functional, I read in one of the Talkbass forum threads that the cab doesn't sound that great with the tweeter engaged, in the same Talkbass forum thread, the Eminence Legend was mentioned as a possible replacement (the thread starter was actually in the process of replacing speakers in their Peavey 410TX cab).

I'll have to measure the inside dimensions of the cab, and yeah I agree, it looks like it has had a pretty hard life, I'm suspecting that at some stage it probably got some mud inside it, it definitely looks like it wasn't very well looked-after that's for sure.

[JimC]

Ah, didn't realise that was a port. I thought it was just a removed connection plate. How I managed to think that with the real plate alongside in the same photo will have to remain one of life's mysteries...
I'd take the tweeter criticism with a pinch of salt, there's a vociferous anti tweeter lobby in the bass fraternity. Equally though I wouldn't bother fitting a tweeter to a bass cab unless I actually found a need for one after running without. I saw the TB thread you mention, but I'd seek a recommendation from Eminence by preference. With a single round port it's fairly easy to alter port tuning, more especially if shorter is required [grin] but it's all hassle and measurement, so unless that sort of thing fascinates you...

[dave.king1]

Probably me who suggested the Legend BP102s, 4 of them will be good for 800W RMS.

I prefer 10s for bass because they can be nice and tight but still thump.

I have a couple of 4 ohm 102s that are basically unused that I'm thinking of unloading but freight to Darwin from The Gong could be really ugly

[DrNomis_44]

Ah, didn't realise that was a port. I thought it was just a removed connection plate. How I managed to think that with the real plate alongside in the same photo will have to remain one of life's mysteries...
I'd take the tweeter criticism with a pinch of salt, there's a vociferous anti tweeter lobby in the bass fraternity. Equally though I wouldn't bother fitting a tweeter to a bass cab unless I actually found a need for one after running without. I saw the TB thread you mention, but I'd seek a recommendation from Eminence by preference. With a single round port it's fairly easy to alter port tuning, more especially if shorter is required [grin] but it's all hassle and measurement, so unless that sort of thing fascinates you...


Ah no worries, I'm willing to do whatever it takes to get the cab working and usable again, even if it means doing some complicated maths, since as it just so happens...I like a challenge, and, I might even learn some new and useful skills in the process.

[DrNomis_44]

Probably me who suggested the Legend BP102s, 4 of them will be good for 800W RMS.

I prefer 10s for bass because they can be nice and tight but still thump.

I have a couple of 4 ohm 102s that are basically unused that I'm thinking of unloading but freight to Darwin from The Gong could be really ugly

I did find one website that had them in stock, but the problem was that they only had two of them, looks like I'll have to do some serious googling for other suppliers, I tried Evatco and they didn't have any in stock whatsoever, I like 10 inchers for Bass too, it means that the cab will be compact enough to put in a car, yet still deliver a good Bass sound.

I'm going to be wiring the 4 new speakers in a series-parallel configuration, so if I'm aiming for 8 Ohms total impedance then I need 4 X 8 Ohm speakers, although my Super Twin can work with a minimum of a 4 Ohm speaker load connected to it, the Super Twin would then be putting out it's maximum power at full volume, 180 Watts RMS or 395 Watts Peak (on instantaneous transients, like pick attacks), well that's my interpretation anyway.

[JimC]

With mobile phone apps and cheap reference microphones it's easier than it's ever been to do this stuff... I would start by measuring up the cab, port and existing speaker and using winisd to calculate the theoretical cab resonant frequency. That will help inform what might be good drivers and then you can model them.

Then I'd make up a rig for measuring impedance curves. You only really need couple of resistors, a phone, an amp and a multimeter. How tos are available on line. If you can do it accurately enough to get actual reliable measurements so much the better, but even a qualitative curve is useful. Then of course the use of a frequency response chart is obvious. The fly in the ointment is that a perfectly flat frequency response may not give a musically desirable response. I recall the surprise I got when I discovered my favourite sounding bass amp had a hpf and was rolling off low frequencies from about 80hz.

Where the experience comes in is knowing what to target for... I made a little ported 1x10 for Simon to match a high end Celestion driver that looked nice on paper, but was horribly boomy in the room. He ended up converting it to sealed. But I used the same design cab with a pair of S/H eminences for a pa rig, and although it didn't look as good to me on paper, when I used them as PA at a little local session I stopped bothering to bring a bass rig and just put my bass in the PA with the vocals. So clearly my idea of what a good bass rig should look like on paper was a mile out!

You know, if you are buying new drivers, there's a lot to be said for 32ohm ones in a 4x10... The other big decision is neo or old school magnets. I treated myself to a neo driver in my lightweight 1x15 bass cab when I got a tax refund and its wonderful. But your Peavey cab is by all accounts rather solid, and they may not make such a difference.

[dave.king1]

I did find one website that had them in stock, but the problem was that they only had two of them, looks like I'll have to do some serious googling for other suppliers, I tried Evatco and they didn't have any in stock whatsoever, I like 10 inchers for Bass too, it means that the cab will be compact enough to put in a car, yet still deliver a good Bass sound.

I'm going to be wiring the 4 new speakers in a series-parallel configuration, so if I'm aiming for 8 Ohms total impedance then I need 4 X 8 Ohm speakers, although my Super Twin can work with a minimum of a 4 Ohm speaker load connected to it, the Super Twin would then be putting out it's maximum power at full volume, 180 Watts RMS or 395 Watts Peak (on instantaneous transients, like pick attacks), well that's my interpretation anyway.

If you do find a place that has 2, give me a yell and we'll see what we can work out.

I'll probably unload my H||H IC-100S head as well I don't need an amp that big any more

[DrNomis_44]

If you do find a place that has 2, give me a yell and we'll see what we can work out.

I'll probably unload my H||H IC-100S head as well I don't need an amp that big any more

I am definitely interested in the H&H IC-100S head for sure if it's in reasonably good working condition, or if it needs some servicing which I may be able to do myself, how much would you want for it?, and yeah I'll definitely let you know if I manage to find two of those 4 Ohm Eminence Legend BP102s.

[DrNomis_44]

With mobile phone apps and cheap reference microphones it's easier than it's ever been to do this stuff... I would start by measuring up the cab, port and existing speaker and using winisd to calculate the theoretical cab resonant frequency. That will help inform what might be good drivers and then you can model them.

Then I'd make up a rig for measuring impedance curves. You only really need couple of resistors, a phone, an amp and a multimeter. How tos are available on line. If you can do it accurately enough to get actual reliable measurements so much the better, but even a qualitative curve is useful. Then of course the use of a frequency response chart is obvious. The fly in the ointment is that a perfectly flat frequency response may not give a musically desirable response. I recall the surprise I got when I discovered my favourite sounding bass amp had a hpf and was rolling off low frequencies from about 80hz.

Where the experience comes in is knowing what to target for... I made a little ported 1x10 for Simon to match a high end Celestion driver that looked nice on paper, but was horribly boomy in the room. He ended up converting it to sealed. But I used the same design cab with a pair of S/H eminences for a pa rig, and although it didn't look as good to me on paper, when I used them as PA at a little local session I stopped bothering to bring a bass rig and just put my bass in the PA with the vocals. So clearly my idea of what a good bass rig should look like on paper was a mile out!

You know, if you are buying new drivers, there's a lot to be said for 32ohm ones in a 4x10... The other big decision is neo or old school magnets. I treated myself to a neo driver in my lightweight 1x15 bass cab when I got a tax refund and its wonderful. But your Peavey cab is by all accounts rather solid, and they may not make such a difference.

I have a Samsung Galaxy J2 Pro Android phone, I'm assuming that the phone is for generating a swept-sinewave signal, also have a multimeter, an analog 20Mhz Dual Trace Oscilloscope with probes, also have a bag full of 1W 1% Metal Film resistors, I've got a Peavey TKO 80 30W Bass amp combo I could probably use, can also use my laptop to generate a swept-sinewave signal too.

I'll get onto measuring the internal dimensions of the bass cab later on today when I'm more awake, I literally got out of bed about half an hour ago, still feeling a bit groggy from sleep.....might need a strong coffee to get me started...lol.

[Simon Barden]

[QUOTE=JimC;207096]With mobile phone apps and cheap reference microphones it's easier than it's ever been to do this stuff.../QUOTE]
The terms 'cheap' and 'reference microphone' simply don't go together. There are a lot of the cheap omni 'measurement microphone' types about, like the Behringer ECM8000 and its various incarnations under other names:

38647

But without it being having a calibration file and being used with a program that can use that file to provide a flat(ish) response, you may as well use any mic with a reasonably flat and wide response.

Here's a graph comparing the frequency responses of 85 Behringer ECM8000 mics.

38648

Whilst some are pretty flat, the majority are far from it, and without its response being checked, you have no clue what yours would be like. That graph has also been 1/3 octave smoothed, so the actual frequency response will be a lot spikier.

[DrNomis_44]

About the only decent-quality mics I have are my two Scarlett CM25 Condenser mics.


I totally understand that a speaker's impedance is far from constant all the way through it's frequency-response, and that it is due to resonances.

[dave.king1]

The head was serviced about 18 months ago, new output transistors, rebias and a couple of new resistors and caps.

There's one on eBay for $850 so that's the area that would get my attention

[DrNomis_44]

The head was serviced about 18 months ago, new output transistors, rebias and a couple of new resistors and caps.

There's one on eBay for $850 so that's the area that would get my attention

I'll see if I can get the money for it together this year.

[dave.king1]

No rush, I'm in no rush to send it on it's way and it's hiding in the cupboard along with a few guitars that don't get played often

[fender3x]

Coming late to this thread. I like the advice from JimC. Winisd is a really simple program to use, and you can use it to model a couple of different drivers. The mistake I made when I used it at first was to try to tune the cab too low. It's tempting to try to tune the cab down to 40 Hz (around a low E) or 30 Hz (around a low B), which can result in a rather boomy sounding cab. Generally commercial cabs are tuned to 50 or 60Hz, which seems to be where they sound best. Of course, as in all things, YMMV ;-)

Chances are good that the specs will not be that far off with Eminence bass drivers. They may even have been the actual OEM for Peavey as they are for a lot of Fender and other commercial cabs.* If you like how they sound in your cab...nothing to do. If you don't, you can play with the port length to see if you can dial them in a bit better.

There are a couple of things I really like about Eminence. They are very responsive to questions. I have generally heard back from them in 24 hours. They also publish all the data you are likely to need about your speaker on their website, so it's easy to compare their drivers.

I don't think you can go too wrong with BP102s. They are a great speaker. They have 6mm of xmax so it's really hard to hurt them--especially if you have 4 of them. Better than what most commercial cabs come with.

That said, you'd shave 10 KG off the weight of the cab by putting in Basslite S2020s. You'd still have 600 watts of power handling. Xmax is not quite as good, but they would have better overall frequency response, particularly at the high end, which could be good if you don't use a tweeter. Better sensitivity as well.

I've used BP102s and Deltalites (the big brother of the S2010s) and I have never had a problem. I have a couple of S2012s in boxes waiting to go into a cab that I am contemplating.

* I once got a pair of NOS bass speakers on ebay that were built for a Fender 2x10 bass cab. I discovered they were "custom built" for Fender by Eminence...when I finally got the TS specs, they were almost identical to Eminence Alphas.

[DrNomis_44]

I've decided to take JimC's advice and go and download a copy of the Winisd software, and install it on my studio desktop pc, since it should prove to be very useful for sorting-out my Peavey 410TX Bass cab, once I've got the internal dimensions, I'll also measure the diameter and length of the bass port too while I'm at it (just so happens I've got a nice digital vernier caliper I can use to do the measurements), the website says that the Winisd software is a free download too....cool.

I'm still a bit of a newbie when it comes to designing speakers, so if any other forum members would like to chime-in and offer some advice, please do, it would be much appreciated.

Like I sad in one of my previous posts, I'm willing to do whatever it takes to get my Peavey 410TX Bass cab working, and usable again.



Update:

Just got Winisd installed on my studio desktop pc, seems to be running fine so far with no major issues.



Ok, so my question is, is it possible to use Winisd to reverse-engineer my Peavey 410TX Bass cab?, I'm thinking that it is quite possible to do that if I have all the internal dimensions plus the diameter and length of the Bass port.


I decided to take some pics of the only working speaker from my Peavey 410TX Bass cab:

38669

38670

38671

The last pic is a close-up of the label on one of the other three non-working speakers.

[fender3x]

Ok, so my question is, is it possible to use Winisd to reverse-engineer my Peavey 410TX Bass cab?, I'm thinking that it is quite possible to do that if I have all the internal dimensions plus the diameter and length of the Bass port.

Kind of. You can enter the box volume and port dimensions, and the number and TS specs of the drivers you plan to use. For any given set of speakers all you can really vary are the port characteristics (length and diameter). But that should be enough to give you a sense of whether a given set of drivers will work, and whether you need to do some tweaking to the port.

[DrNomis_44]

To make handling the Peavey 410TX Bass cab easier, I'm going to be buying some new heavy duty castors, to replace the existing ones from my local Bunnings store, they have a good range of castors, but that's something I may leave till later this year.

[Simon Barden]

That will be wheely good.

[DrNomis_44]

That will be wheely good.


Yeah,....in a round-about way (yes, pun fully, and shamelessly intended.....hahahaha), then I'll be able to go a rollin, rollin, rollin on a river.....sorry, couldn't resist.....hahahaha.....

[DrNomis_44]

I think I have finally found some info on the stock speakers that were in my Peavey 410TX Bass Cab, found this webpage after doing some googling this afternoon:

https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Peavey-2-Sheffield-1035-Replacement-8-Ohm-Sub-10-Speaker-for-410TX-210TX-810TX-Cabinet-PEAVEY-PACKAGE-368


Even gives a full list of all the specs of the speakers.


These Eminence Retrobass 10 Inch speakers look like they may be a good substitute/replacement:

https://thespeakerfactory.com.au/products/eminence-retrobass-s2010-10-bass-guitar-speaker-200watts-8-ohm?utm_campaign=emailmarketing_116520681555&utm_medium=email&utm_source=shopify_email


I could even go with these, I'd end up with a 4 Ohm cab if I used four of these in a series-parallel wiring setup:
https://thespeakerfactory.com.au/products/copy-of-eminence-pa-s2510-8%CF%89-275watt-pa-speaker-replacement-woofer?utm_campaign=emailmarketing_116520681555&utm_medium=email&utm_source=shopify_email


My Fender Super Twin will work with a speaker load with a minimum impedance of 4 Ohms, I would then most likely get the maximum power output of the amp if I plugged it into the Peavey 410TX with four of the 4 Ohm Eminence Retrobass speakers in it.

[fender3x]

I think I have finally found some info on the stock speakers that were in my Peavey 410TX Bass Cab, found this webpage after doing some googling this afternoon:

https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Peavey-2-Sheffield-1035-Replacement-8-Ohm-Sub-10-Speaker-for-410TX-210TX-810TX-Cabinet-PEAVEY-PACKAGE-368


Even gives a full list of all the specs of the speakers.


These Eminence Retrobass 10 Inch speakers look like they may be a good substitute/replacement:

https://thespeakerfactory.com.au/products/eminence-retrobass-s2010-10-bass-guitar-speaker-200watts-8-ohm?utm_campaign=emailmarketing_116520681555&utm_medium=email&utm_source=shopify_email


I could even go with these, I'd end up with a 4 Ohm cab if I used four of these in a series-parallel wiring setup:
https://thespeakerfactory.com.au/products/copy-of-eminence-pa-s2510-8%CF%89-275watt-pa-speaker-replacement-woofer?utm_campaign=emailmarketing_116520681555&utm_medium=email&utm_source=shopify_email


My Fender Super Twin will work with a speaker load with a minimum impedance of 4 Ohms, I would then most likely get the maximum power output of the amp if I plugged it into the Peavey 410TX with four of the 4 Ohm Eminence Retrobass speakers in it.There is something odd about those "retrobass" speakers. I had never heard of them so I looked at the Eminence website and didn't find them. Also the model number looked weird. This occurred to me because I have a set of S2012s which are neodymium bass speakers, not the ceramics in the pic. Sure enough, on the website the S2010s are neodymium "Basslites". The Basslites are s good speaker, and have better TS specs and are cheaper than the Peavey speakers. But they don't look anything like the retrobass speakers in the pic.

Caveat emptor.

BTW, the real Eminence S2010 is a nice, light bass speaker with better xmax specs than the Peaveys. If you don't care about the weight the Eminence Legend (BP102) is s terrific speaker, cheaper than either option above, and has almost twice the xmax of the Peavey.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[DrNomis_44]

There is something odd about those "retrobass" speakers. I had never heard of them so I looked at the Eminence website and didn't find them. Also the model number looked weird. This occurred to me because I have a set of S2012s which are neodymium bass speakers, not the ceramics in the pic. Sure enough, on the website the S2010s are neodymium "Basslites". The Basslites are s good speaker, and have better TS specs and are cheaper than the Peavey speakers. But they don't look anything like the retrobass speakers in the pic.

Caveat emptor.

BTW, the real Eminence S2010 is a nice, light bass speaker with better xmax specs than the Peaveys. If you don't care about the weight the Eminence Legend (BP102) is s terrific speaker, cheaper than either option above, and has almost twice the xmax of the Peavey.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk


Yeah, true, trouble is, I haven't been able to find more than one of those Eminence Legends BP102s, maybe I just haven't looked hard enough, if I could find four of them in decent/working condition, then for sure, they would be my first choice for my Peavey 410TX bass cab, I'm more than willing, and quite happy to do some shopping around before I start plonking-down my cash though.

[fender3x]

Yeah, true, trouble is, I haven't been able to find more than one of those Eminence Legends BP102s, maybe I just haven't looked hard enough, if I could find four of them in decent/working condition, then for sure, they would be my first choice for my Peavey 410TX bass cab, I'm more than willing, and quite happy to do some shopping around before I start plonking-down my cash though.Wow! I just checked in with my two favorite places to get speakers and they are sold out of BP102s. Never seen that before. Also out of my next favorites, the Deltalites.

Parts-Express.com has the "real" S2010s which are also better, lighter and cheaper than the Peaveys.

I have some S2012s, that have similar specs. I have some kind of Eminence driver in every cab but one. Great value for the $

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[dave.king1]

I have a pair of BP102s that I put in a quad box with a pair of 10" Alphas, never played through them and have since binned the box and sold the Alphas.

They are as new, make me a sensible offer if you're interested

[fender3x]

I broadened my search a little and found some in other places...Would be happy to share, but if others know a decent AUS supplier that's probably better. Here I found some on Amazon and eBay that were in stock, as well as at Sweetwater and a few other places. But all in the US. Probably better for you if you can find them there...

[DrNomis_44]

I broadened my search a little and found some in other places...Would be happy to share, but if others know a decent AUS supplier that's probably better. Here I found some on Amazon and eBay that were in stock, as well as at Sweetwater and a few other places. But all in the US. Probably better for you if you can find them there...


I wonder why those Eminence Legend BP102s seem to be so popular all the time?, and why they seem to be so hard to get?

[DrNomis_44]

I have a pair of BP102s that I put in a quad box with a pair of 10" Alphas, never played through them and have since binned the box and sold the Alphas.

They are as new, make me a sensible offer if you're interested


How many Ohms are they?

[dave.king1]

The BP102 is an 8 ohm speaker as were the Alphas.

I bought the speakers and built the box for my H||H amp because we were looking to do some gigs and then Bob became very ill so that was the end of the gigging plans and ultimately passed away in August 2020.

So now it is just recording with Julie & Max and I DI both guitar and bass because I have no suitable space to mic an amp of any size.

I'm away from home at the moment on grandchild duty while my son works night shift but will take some pics and post them in the next day or so

[fender3x]

I wonder why those Eminence Legend BP102s seem to be so popular all the time?, and why they seem to be so hard to get?

I am not sure, but I can guess. Partly I think you answered your own question. They're popular all the time. If I am guessing, looking at their power handling, high xmax, roll off is pretty good, reasonable price...and they sound both in bass cabs and in PA systems. I am guessing it's always one of the best sellers for Eminence for bass. Plus they're hard to blow up.

I don't know for a fact, but I suspect that the "shortage" has to do with Covid. They are in Kentucky which has 6 of the top 10 counties by percentage for Covid Cases in the US. Covid has also directly and indirectly created a nationwide shortage of truck drivers, which is causing slowdowns in deliveries all over the USA. One or both things could be causing the problem.

[DrNomis_44]

I am not sure, but I can guess. Partly I think you answered your own question. They're popular all the time. If I am guessing, looking at their power handling, high xmax, roll off is pretty good, reasonable price...and they sound both in bass cabs and in PA systems. I am guessing it's always one of the best sellers for Eminence for bass. Plus they're hard to blow up.

I don't know for a fact, but I suspect that the "shortage" has to do with Covid. They are in Kentucky which has 6 of the top 10 counties by percentage for Covid Cases in the US. Covid has also directly and indirectly created a nationwide shortage of truck drivers, which is causing slowdowns in deliveries all over the USA. One or both things could be causing the problem.


I reckon you're right.

[fender3x]

The good news is that they are really popular so Eminence will make more of them ;-)

[DrNomis_44]

The good news is that they are really popular so Eminence will make more of them ;-)


I'll definitely have to keep an eye out for them.

[fender3x]

The only one's I have seen in AUS are here:

https://thespeakerfactory.com.au/collections/all-speakers?constraint=10

...but they only seem to have the 4 ohm models in stock.

A few places are starting to have the 8 ohm models in the USA again, I don't know how much the shipping is, but the US price is US$80-100 is enough less that it might be worth it, although you couldn't use the Dave King bargain basement speakers with them...

https://www.adorama.com/emlegndbp102.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwY-LBhD6ARIsACvT72NFUg9d7EjmWejdAlYbN1lU3v28q03jt5_Ta xsbHBSZ3QQYD2LXRlIaAqTnEALw_wcB&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwY-LBhD6ARIsACvT72NFUg9d7EjmWejdAlYbN1lU3v28q03jt5_Ta xsbHBSZ3QQYD2LXRlIaAqTnEALw_wcB&utm_source=adl-gbase-p-audio

[DrNomis_44]

Update:

Okay, since it's going to prove a bit difficult to source four new Eminence BP102 speaker as replacements for the originals, I'm going to see if I can fix the three open-circuit original speakers, so they work again, I did notice that the reason why three of the original speakers were open-circuit was because the braiding connecting the voice-coils to the terminals was corroded, so, my theory is this......if I replace the original braiding with some new braiding or some flexible wire, that may get the three open-circuit speakers working again, but that's a job for tomorrow.

Next week, I'm going to see if I can buy some rolls of this stuff from my local Jaycar Electronics store, as replacement for the original dampening material, which was dirty and really rank-smelling:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/650gsm-acrylic-speaker-dampening-material/p/AX3694?pos=1&queryId=aeb30cd0ed19331c3b342f5edb63f96f&sort=relevance&searchText=Speaker%20Dampening%20Material

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


Okay, so I've figured-out how to fix the three faulty original speakers that came out of my Peavey 410TX Bass cab, here's the method I figured out:


Step 1: Check to see if the voice-coil itself for continuity using my multimeter, if it shows about 6 Ohms of resistance proceed to step 2.

Step 2: Check to see if there's any coil-rub, if not proceed to step 3.

Step 3: De-solder the old copper braid from the terminals and use solderwick to remove all the old solder.

Step 4: Carefully remove the dust-cap from the speaker.

Step 5: Carefully scrape the lacquer off the two voice-coil solder joints and tin with solder.

Step 6: Carefully solder two pieces of new copper braid to the voice-coil solder joints after making two small holes near them in the speaker cone.

Step 7: Thread the copper braiding through the small holes in the speaker cone and solder the end to the voice-coil solder-joints.

Step 8: Solder the other end of the copper braid to it's respective solder joint.

Step 9: Once both pieces of copper braid have been soldered to their terminal, check to see if the speaker now shows a resistance reading of about 6 Ohms, if so proceed to step 10.

Step 10: check to see if the speaker produces sound by connecting the Function Generator to the terminals, if the speaker produces sound, then it is successfully fixed, glue the dust cap back in place.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


Well, I think I got lucky, all four of the original speakers from my Peavey 410TX cab are now working and are making sound when I test them with my Function Generator, one of them was actually okay and didn't need any repair work, two of them needed replacement copper braiding to connect the voice-coil to the terminals, and one of them just needed the existing copper braiding re-soldered to the terminals, so, I stand a good chance of restoring the 410TX cab back to fully-working condition for use with my Super Twin amp.

[fender3x]

I am really impressed that you got the speakers working. That's awesome! Looking at this prompted me to take a look back through this thread. Hopefully you've cured the problem and it will sound great. If it doesn't...it's probably worth mentioning that these speakers, at least used ones, seem to be relatively available on ebay and maybe elsewhere. It was rightly identified as a "Peavey Sheffield," but that may be a little misleading since there are several different model numbers. The only one that I could find T/S specs for was the one that Jim found (a model 1035). If it were me, I'd try to find a Model 121, which is what you have.

[DrNomis_44]

I am really impressed that you got the speakers working. That's awesome! Looking at this prompted me to take a look back through this thread. Hopefully you've cured the problem and it will sound great. If it doesn't...it's probably worth mentioning that these speakers, at least used ones, seem to be relatively available on ebay and maybe elsewhere. It was rightly identified as a "Peavey Sheffield," but that may be a little misleading since there are several different model numbers. The only one that I could find T/S specs for was the one that Jim found (a model 1035). If it were me, I'd try to find a Model 121, which is what you have.


You're actually correct, one of the original speakers from my 410TX cab has a little white sticker stuck to the frame that reads Peavey Model 121 Imp. 8 Ohms.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:

The glue I used to glue the dust caps back on the speakers seems to have dried, so all the speakers are ready to go back in the cab, on Tuesday this coming week, I'll pay a visit to my local Jaycar Electronics store and see if they have any acoustic dampening material in stock, and I'll buy as many rolls of it I can, next stop will be to my local Bunnings store for a set of new castors, and some nuts, bolts, and washers for attaching them to the cab, will also buy a new cordless drill while I'm at it.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:

Just spent what seemed like two hours trying to remove the four mounting screws for the tweeter speaker so I could test it to see if it still works, only to find that it doesn't, so I'm going to have to buy a replacement one, Jaycar stock a 100W 8 Ohm piezoelectric tweeter that I think may work fine as a replacement, it only costs about Au$12.00 or so, the speaker has a rotary attenuator knob for the tweeter mounted on the back panel, so I can adjust the tweeter level if need be, hopefully the attenuator rheostat isn't burnt-out.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


I managed to make quite a bit of progress on the repair/restoration work on my Peavey 410TX bass cab, you should have seen the ton of dirt and detritus I had to clean-out of the cab along with the foul-smelling acoustic dampening material, just as well that I was wearing a pair of rubber dishwashing gloves at the time, amongst the dirt and detritus I "evicted" from the cab was a rodent skeleton of some kind, I kid you not, the cab still needs a good vacuuming-out to remove the last vestiges of dirt and detritus from it, the post office on Cavenagh St happens to have cordless vacuum cleaners in stock, so next fortnight I'm buying myself one.

I have managed to get all the new castors installed on the cab this afternoon, so that's one less thing for me to do.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:

I decided to give the interior of my Peavey 410TX bass cab a good clean-out with a scouring sponge soaked in some water and pine-o-clean, it was still pretty grotty after giving it a good sweep-out, but it looks clean enough inside now, this bass cab actually had a crossover circuit built onto a pcb, which had the original input socket soldered onto it, since the new NL4 Speakon socket I'm going to be using as the new input socket, is going to create some clearance issues, I have elected to re-build the crossover circuit using an old-school breadboard point-to-point style method of construction which involves using a suitably-sized piece of 12mm thick pine wood to mount some 8-way tagstrips which will be used for mounting all the components used in building the crossover circuit.

I have made some drawings of the crossover circuit and also a drawing of the new breadboard layout which I think should work perfect, for those interested, I will post pics of my hand-drawn crossover circuit as well as the breadboard layout if you're interested in building one for yourself, I will also include component values too.


And as promised, here are my hand-drawn versions of the crossover schematic in my bass cab, as well as a breadboard layout:

44090

44091


As you can see, the schematic for the crossover is really simple, it consists of what looks to me to be a High-Pass LC T-Filter formed by a 3u3/250V Polypropylene Cap, a 15uF/100V Polypropylene cap, and a 200uH air-cored inductor, the output of the High-Pass LC T-Filter goes to a constant impedance rheostat, there's also that 1.0mH iron-cored inductor going to four bass speakers wired in series-parallel, that's there to stop high frequencies going to the bass speakers.


Here's my theory of how the crossover works.......

For frequencies from say 1Hz up to the cutoff frequency of the LC High-Pass Filter, the 3u3/250V Polypropylene capacitor will appear to be an open-circuit, remember a non-polarized capacitor is nothing more than two conductors separated by an insulator, now for a capacitor the resistance at pure DC should ideally be infinite, as you increase the frequency the resistance to AC decreases and more of the signal flows through the capacitor, in electronics AC resistance is also known as impedance.

At some frequency the AC impedance of the 3u3/250uF capacitor is going to be low enough to allow the maximum signal level through to the 200uH air cored inductor, but, inductors behave in the opposite way to capacitors, as frequency goes up so does the AC resistance or impedance of an inductor, the 200uH inductor is there to stop ac signals going to circuit-ground so the signals are left with only one other path to take, and that's through the 15uF/100V polypropylene capacitor.

Now, if the high frequencies try to go through the bass speakers to ground, they will be stopped by the 1.0mH iron-cored inductor since the AC resistance of an inductor increases with frequency.


As a side-note the letter H is used in electronics for the unit of Inductance known as the Henry, a 1 Henry inductor is a very large unit of inductance and you're more likely to see inductors in the mH (milli-Henry) or uH (micro-Henry) range, but 1H and larger values of inductors do exist.

Sidenote two, I deliberately kept maths to a bare-minimum in my theory of how the crossover works, because the maths gets quite complex, and I wanted to keep the explanation as simple as possible, of course, I could go ahead and calculate the cutoff frequency of the LC High-Pass T-Filter if I wanted to.

[fender3x]

I think you probably know way more than I do about this, but I am not sure that it would be a good trade to use a piezo tweeter. I found a manual for this cab:

https://assets.peavey.com/literature/manuals/80301559.pdf

Attenuater knobs don't work too well with piezos. Also, particularly in a bass cab, they would not need a crossover. At least that is my understanding. Unfortunately the manual doesn't tell you much about what sort of tweeter it came with, just that the crossover frequency is 3.5 kHz.

...so I did a little more digging, and I think the OEM tweeter is a Fostex 024H27 ... These seem to have been rather widely used in bass cabs. I found them listed as used in your 410TX cab, as well as in SWR cabs. Usually these seem to be in the neighborhood of $15 USD. I mean...as long as you are rebuilding the crossover...in for a pound... ;-)

[DrNomis_44]

I think you probably know way more than I do about this, but I am not sure that it would be a good trade to use a piezo tweeter. I found a manual for this cab:

https://assets.peavey.com/literature/manuals/80301559.pdf

Attenuater knobs don't work too well with piezos. Also, particularly in a bass cab, they would not need a crossover. At least that is my understanding. Unfortunately the manual doesn't tell you much about what sort of tweeter it came with, just that the crossover frequency is 3.5 kHz.

...so I did a little more digging, and I think the OEM tweeter is a Fostex 024H27 ... These seem to have been rather widely used in bass cabs. I found them listed as used in your 410TX cab, as well as in SWR cabs. Usually these seem to be in the neighborhood of $15 USD. I mean...as long as you are rebuilding the crossover...in for a pound... ;-)


You may well be right too, well, if I can find one of those Fostex 024H27 tweeters going for something like Us$15.00 or the equivalent in Au$ then yeah, I will seriously consider buying one, cheers for that mate, I'll see if there are any on eBay, to be honest, I really didn't know what make/model number the original tweeter was so I ended up buying the Piezo tweeter from my local Jaycar Electronics store as a last resort, I didn't even know if the original tweeters were still available.

[fender3x]

I don't know if Fostex makes them anymore, but they seem relatively common. I found a bunch on ebay...but I am in the US so YMMV ;-)

[DrNomis_44]

I don't know if Fostex makes them anymore, but they seem relatively common. I found a bunch on ebay...but I am in the US so YMMV ;-)

Yeah, it can't hurt to have a look, you never know, I might score myself a good bargain.


I just posted pics of my hand-drawn crossover schematic and breadboard layout, tomorrow I might see if I can get my printer/scanner/copier up and running and make scans of them that are clearer.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


Popped-by my local Jaycar Electronics store yesterday to buy some bits and pieces I needed to build the new crossover for my Peavey 410TX bass cab, I found that Jaycar did not have any 15uF/100V polypropylene caps in stock, so I had a bit of a think to myself about how I could solve the problem, and then remembered I could put two lower value caps in parallel to make up the needed capacitance value, I did a quick calculation and found that if I put an 8u2/250V cap in parallel with a 6u8/250V I would effectively get a 15uF/250V cap which would be perfect, Jaycar did have some 3u3/250V polypropylene caps in stock though, so I bought two 8u2/250V caps, two 6u8/250V caps, and two 3u3/250V caps, I also bought eight 8-way tagstrips, and some self tapping screws and washers while I was at it, next week I will be paying a visit to my local Bunnings store for some suitably sized 12mm thick pine wood for the breadboard, as well as some other things I'll need and hopefully the bass cab should be working by the end of next week.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:

Managed to make some more progress on the restoration work on my Peavey 410TX Bass Cab, a few minutes ago I finished wiring-up the new crossover for the cab on it's breadboard, here's a pic of it ready to be installed in the cab.

44230

[fender3x]

Very tidy looking work. Did you ever find a Fostex tweet?

[DrNomis_44]

Very tidy looking work. Did you ever find a Fostex tweet?


Not yet I haven't, I'll have to keep looking.


I'm going to be running some tests on the crossover using my function generator, and scope, I will be using two 8.2 Ohm/1W metal film resistors to simulate the speaker loads, this is just to check that the crossover works as it's supposed to, 1W metal film resistors will do fine since the signal level coming out of the function generator is only line level, not speaker level and I will using the function generator to input a signal into the crossover, the power level I'm dealing with is not high enough to do any real damage.

[fender3x]

Sounds like a good plan...unless that iron core coil rusts off it's mount. Ha! I have not gotten to the point of building the crossover in the cab build I am slowly working on, but every time I look at component prices I like the idea of repurposing more! It's one of the nice things about your restoration here. Waste not, want not, rock out ;-)

[DrNomis_44]

Sounds like a good plan...unless that iron core coil rusts off it's mount. Ha! I have not gotten to the point of building the crossover in the cab build I am slowly working on, but every time I look at component prices I like the idea of repurposing more! It's one of the nice things about your restoration here. Waste not, want not, rock out ;-)

Not including the 1.0mH iron cored Choke and the 200uH air cored choke, the rest of the parts, tagstrips and caps, didn't really cost much at all, I bought the 8-way tagstrips and caps from my local Jaycar Electronics store, the wood I used was an off-cut from a piece of 12mm X 140mm X 1.2m pine I bought from Bunnings yesterday, the red and black wire is some 7.5A Auto/Marine power wire, again bought from Jaycar.

But yeah, I do like the whole idea of re-using electronic parts, and stuff you have lying around.


I guess it's an ethic I "inherited" from my parents, see, in my family as I was growing-up as a kid, we always had a strong diy tradition, my mum used to make her own dresses, my dad built our HiFi system, he also did his own carpentry, plumbing, mechanical, and electrical work too, he was a machinist/mechanic by trade, he even designed/built a big reflection telescope because he was into astronomy as well, he also owned a movie camera he used to shoot home movies, one time he built a meat smoker from scratch.

Me and my two brothers were the same too, we used to make our own toys out of bits of wood, my older brother, George, used to build his own Hotrods and compete in races at the local speedway track.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


I'm just in the process of installing all the new white dampening material in my Peavey 410TX cab, turns out I had ordered more than enough of the material to treat the entire insides of the cab with some material to spare, looks like Murphy is on holidays for me, that is, if you're familiar with Murphy's Law.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


Just finished installing the Crossover and all the original speakers in the 410TX cab and......She Works!!!!!


The cab is now making sound again, just need to get the tweeter installed.

[Trevor Davies]

Great news. Murphy must be holidaying in Perth!!:rolleyes:

[DrNomis_44]

Just been trying it out with the Fender Super Twin and my 6-string bass, it has a really fat and warm sound to it if you turn up the volume.

Going to do a demo recording of it later on so you can hear what it sounds like.

Here's what it currently looks like:

44253

[fender3x]

That is the perfect mad scientist rig. You just need to install a flux capacitor on your pedalboard ;-)

Sent from my LE2125 using Tapatalk

[DrNomis_44]

That is the perfect mad scientist rig. You just need to install a flux capacitor on your pedalboard ;-)

Sent from my LE2125 using Tapatalk


Those are a bit obsolete now, although they do the job, I found that replacing Flux Capacitors with just a single Quantum Field-Vector Non-Linear Singularity Stasis Ion-Injector Subspace E-Zone Generator gets better results by boosting the parallel-axis by polynomial equations, in layman's terms that's very similar to 5th Dimension inversion of non-reality to reality without the inevitable annihilation of antimatter and matter.

[fender3x]

...without the inevitable annihilation of antimatter and matter.

Well no one wants that. Makes perfect sense when ou put it that way.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:

Just uploaded a quick demo recording of my bass rig to my Soundcloud account, Fender Super Twin amp plugged into a Peavey 410TX cab:

https://soundcloud.com/drnomis_44/bass-rig-demo

[DrNomis_44]

Update:

This afternoon I made a mounting bracket for the new piezo tweeter from a couple of pieces of 3mm MDF sheeting glued together with some PVAS glue, also had to pay a visit to Bunnings this afternoon too, to buy a few needed things including some sheets of sandpaper, gave the mounting bracket a spray with some matt black paint and I've been waiting for it to dry, will install the piezo tweeter tomorrow and do another test-out to see how it sounds.

[DrNomis_44]

Update:


Earlier this morning I installed the new piezo tweeter in the 410TX cab and tried it out with the Super Twin and my 6-string bass, seems to be working great so far, here's a pic of my finished Bass Rig:

44294