MXR Phase 45 clone

[jugglindan]

Starting the next pedal build: a clone of the MXR phase 45, layout from Guitar FX Layouts (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/07/mxr-phase-45.html). As well as being a simpler circuit, I prefer the more subtle phaser effect anyway. If I want gnarly phasing I have the Xtomp with Phase 90 and Small Stone models.

Since I am still waiting for some components to arrive (Murphy's Law of Electronics: no matter how many components you have stashed, the new circuit will still require parts you don't have), I decided to start with the enclosure. I am planning a space-age Star Trek theme based on the phaser pun, so first step is polishing the enclosure.

The raw enclosure:
34900

Partway through sanding grades:
34901

Getting there:
34902

I did this last night while watching Babylon 5, but in the sunlight today I could see fine scratches that are too deep for the current sanding grade, so it's back down the grades for a bit. I should probably also drill before getting to the final polishing stage. I will use the same 1 knob template I used on the Lemon Squeezy.

[Andy40]

Dammit, you are beating me. I've got the "Smoothie" by Madbean PCB but not started it. Whats your plan to match the transistors?

[Woltz]

Cool build, can't wait to see the enclosure design.

Slightly off topic, lads talk to me about the best Vox AC clone pedal that I can either buy a pcb or get a layout for that I can etch my own board. I want to try get the closest Vox sound I can out of my Marshall without actually buying a Vox amp which then takes up more space in my house.

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[jugglindan]

Dammit, you are beating me. I've got the "Smoothie" by Madbean PCB but not started it. Whats your plan to match the transistors?

:D

For JFET matching, I will probably build one of these (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/07/greatly-improved-jfet-matcher.html) on a breadboard, then pick the best pair.


Cool build, can't wait to see the enclosure design.

Slightly off topic, lads talk to me about the best Vox AC clone pedal that I can either buy a pcb or get a layout for that I can etch my own board. I want to try get the closest Vox sound I can out of my Marshall without actually buying a Vox amp which then takes up more space in my house.

I have no experience with Vox amp in a box pedals, but reviews indicate that the Catalinbread CB30 and Galileo pedals (https://reverb.com/news/its-my-amp-in-a-box-the-best-pedals-to-get-classic-fender-marshall-vox-tones-and-more) are pretty good. Guitar FX Layouts has stripboard layouts (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/search/label/Catalinbread) for both (2 versions of Galileo). If it was me I would start by listening to YouTube reviews of those to see if they are close to what you are looking for.

[jugglindan]

Oh, the RunOffGroove Britannia (http://www.runoffgroove.com/britannia.html) has a good rep as well. Guitar FX Layouts has it as well (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/09/rog-britannia.html). It's a fairly complex stripboard build though, so might be worth looking for a PCB. The ROG site has a PCB layout, but the link to purchase a board is dead.

[McCreed]

Woltz, try a search for Joyo AC Tone schematic.

I know bugger-all about building pedals but I can say that actual Joyo pedal is really good. The down side is you can buy the pedal for $65 form Artist Guitars, which is probably less than you can build one, but I reckon that's not the point so much with you DIY pedal guys :o

[jugglindan]

Woltz, try a search for Joyo AC Tone schematic.

I know bugger-all about building pedals but I can say that actual Joyo pedal is really good. The down side is you can buy the pedal for $65 form Artist Guitars, which is probably less than you can build one, but I reckon that's not the point so much with you DIY pedal guys :o

According to this list (https://www.tonestart.com/ultimate-joyo-guitar-pedal-clone-list/), the Joyo AC Tone is a clone of the Tech21 SansAmp Liverpool. I haven't heard either, but the Tech21 pedal does come in the same conversations of good Vox in a Box pedals that mentioned the Catalinbread ones. Joyo do have a good rep as one of the better quality clone builders. I have the Joyo Sweet Baby, which is an excellent clone of the Mad Professor Sweet Honey Overdrive. It's a great pedal but I have never bonded with it so it's been evicted by the recent #5 build (Barber CDD).

I can build a pedal for much less than $65 worth of parts. Typically less than $20 depending on the components. Most of the cost is a more or less a fixed cost per pedal - ~$10 for the enclosure, ~$5-7 worth of pots, knobs, jacks and other hardware, and then just a couple of dollars worth of components. I keep things cheap by mostly buying bulk packs on eBay. Some circuits require special orders, but I usually use that to stock up on other parts to amortize the postage cost.

Here's the breakup on the 3 pedals I completed recently:
Buffer: cost me ~$15. The original JHS Little Black Buffer costs $129. Most of the cost was harware, electronics are probably less than $1.
Lemon Squeezy: cost me $35. An AnalogMan Juicer is $279. My cost was higher because I got a PCB kit, but a stripboard build would have been pricey as well due to rare JFETs.
#5: cost me $20. The original Barber Compact Direct Drive is around $250 if you can find one at all.

So I get the equivalent of over $650 worth of high-end pedals for $70. But that's not all of the point, or even the main point. I enjoy the process of building the pedals. I find it relaxing, and a good creative outlet.

[jugglindan]

I should add that those costs are just for the actual parts used in each pedal. My total outlay to get to the point of being able to do this so cheaply is higher. $15 for a kit of 1200 resistors, $50 multimeter, soldering stuff etc. But it's the same with building guitars. The tools cost gets cheaper per build the more builds you do, which I think is one thing that motivates people to build just one more.

[Andy40]

:D

For JFET matching, I will probably build one of these (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/07/greatly-improved-jfet-matcher.html) on a breadboard, then pick the best pair.


I'd be copying you, so if you have time to document your travels, i'm interested.

[jugglindan]

I'd be copying you, so if you have time to document your travels, i'm interested.

No worries. I can document the JFET selection process in this build thread. I don't have any 2N5952 JFETs in stock. They are on order but who knows when they will arrive. I have read of others using J201s (which I have) or 2N5457s with success (even Mark Hammer, the DIY pedal god says they will work (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=54597.msg1119762#msg1119762)). I think the key is matching.

As an aside, I tried my Lemon Squeezer with J201s instead of the 2N5457s and it sounded pretty much the same. I didn't even adjust the voltage trimmer (since it took so much work to get just right).

[McCreed]

According to this list, the Joyo AC Tone is a clone of the Tech21 SansAmp Liverpool. I haven't heard either, but the Tech21 pedal does come in the same conversations of good Vox in a Box pedals that mentioned the Catalinbread ones.

Yes that's correct about the cloning.
I mentioned this in another thread, but I owned the SansAmp Blonde and the Joyo American Sound at the same time and the Joyo sounded great. The Tech-21 was around 300AUD at the time (they're now discontinued).
I'm sure the quality of the components would be night & day, and the two main differences that I know of were the footswitch was a soft touch and the V2.0 had a a switchable speaker emulation. The Joyo speaker sims are fixed.

As for cost of building vs buying, that difference is impressive, and great incentive!
The few times I've priced out parts for pedals (with only mere contemplation of building) it's not been as economical as your numbers. However that was not any bulk buying, just one-of prices. Not to mention my circuitry knowledge is weak beyond pickups & pots!

[jugglindan]

Because the pedals are just for my own use, I have no problem fixing things if they break later on. For that reason, I am happy to use cheaper components. For example instead of Pure Tone or Switchcraft sockets, I buy bulk packs like this (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32954681824.html). And this 600 piece resistor set (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32475181535.html) is about the same price as 8 resistors from Jaycar (don't worry, Jaycar still get a lot of value from me :) )

I haven't kept detailed expenses though, so my prices might be a little off, but not by much I think.

To some extent, you don't need much electronics knowledge to build a PCB kit or stripboard build. It's largely solder by numbers. However it does help a lot when things don't work, or when knowing if substituting one part for another will be OK (I often do this to avoid more parts orders).

[jugglindan]

Just for the record, I priced out every component for the phaser build, including items from my stash, right down to the last bit of hookup wire and the bit of paint I will need for the clear coat. Did not include tools. It will cost me a grand total of $15.93. The closest equivalent appears to be the MXR Custom Shop '75 Vintage Phase 45, which is a whopping $200 :D

[McCreed]

...I buy bulk packs like this.

Copied this from the Aliexpress page you linked:

"Chrome nut & washer, the nut and screw closely, without nuts loose phenomenon."

LOL! I love Chinglish.
And I hate the nuts loose phenomenon!

[jugglindan]

Copied this from the Aliexpress page you linked:

"Chrome nut & washer, the nut and screw closely, without nuts loose phenomenon."

LOL! I love Chinglish.
And I hate the nuts loose phenomenon!

Agreed! No boxers round here

[samr]

Buffer: cost me ~$15. The original JHS Little Black Buffer costs $129. Most of the cost was harware, electronics are probably less than $1.

Ah, I was wondering if the buffer was one of yours. Solid thumbs up from me on the font there.

[jugglindan]

Ah, I was wondering if the buffer was one of yours. Solid thumbs up from me on the font there.

:D

Well, I was watching Buffy at the time.

Given the theme I am planning for this one, I had better finish season 3 of TOS at the same time.

[jugglindan]

OK, JFET matching time. My other FETs are still on order, so I tested my current stock of 10 J201s.

First, I breadboarded the non-IC Greatly Improved JFET Matcher circuit (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/07/greatly-improved-jfet-matcher.html):
34916

I used a strip of masking tape on my work surface so I could write the measured values for each transistor as I proceeded. Since I used a breadboard jumper instead of a switch for the 2 measurements, I did Idss for all 10, adjusted the jumper then measured Vp for all 10.

Once I had all the measurements, I looked for pairs with close values for both measurements. I got lucky. Out of 10 FETs, I got 3 matched pairs. Two matches are very close, and the third is not quite as close but still useable. To avoid having to do all this again, I put each pair into a separate labeled bag and all the rest back in the unmatched bag.
34917

A lot more information on this process, the circuit, and how to derive other values such as the gain and ideal source and drain resistor values, see this ROG article (http://runoffgroove.com/fetzervalve.html). But the short reason for matching JFETs is to use them in circuits that have fixed resistors to control the bias voltage to 2 FETS, or circuits that include just one trimmer that adjusts for both FETS. By using a matched pair, the single resistance value will give similar behaviours in both FETs. Unmatched FETS can be saved for circuits that use just one, or where the bias voltage is controlled separately for each FET.

The Phase 45 circuit I am building has a single bias trimmer for both JFETs, so a matched pair will give the best result.

[jugglindan]

Note, Vp is actually negative. I adjusted my labels but in the photo above I have just written the value as seen on the multimeter.

I was also happy to see that the batch of 10 J201s I bought cheap on eBay were all within spec (https://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/J201.shtml).

[samr]

Given the theme I am planning for this one, I had better finish season 3 of TOS at the same time.

TOS or TAS!

34918

[jugglindan]

And finally, the 3 matched pairs give me some choices for tuning the sound as well since they all have different expected gain. So I will socket the board and try each of the 3 pairs (and maybe the other FETs when they arrive) to pick the ones that sound best in the circuit.

[jugglindan]

TOS or TAS!

34918

TOS, and then TAS :)

But first, got to finish the final season of Babylon 5.

[jugglindan]

On the last two stripboard builds I used two different methods to make the cuts in the copper traces. On the first, I marked each cut from the top of the board then drilled out the holes. This worked reasonably well, particularly because the Guitar FX Layouts diagrams only show the cut locations from the top of the board. I also found that having larger holes visible from the top of the board gave some extra landmarks for locating components.

On the second build, I used a stripboard cutting tool to cut traces by hand. This requires marking the location of each trace on the copper side. I did this by mentally flipping the top-side cuts diagram. I got it right but that board was simple and on something larger the risk of mistakes is high.

So now I tried something different again. I made a copy of the cuts diagram, reversed it in a photo editor, resized to the exact dimensions of the board and printed it.
34941

I then taped it onto the board, using wire punched through the paper on two cuts as locators to get it all lined up. A sharpie then soaked ink through the paper to mark each cut.
34942

I got a nice result, and triple-checking showed all the cut locations were right:
34943

One episode of B5 later, and I have a circuit board:
34944

Once I get to this stage I always test for continuity across each cut and adjacent tracks. Sometimes tiny traces of copper remain, or threads of copper get dislodged during cutting and this can be enough to create shorts.

On my next build, I will probably use a hybrid of the first and last methods. This process was a faster and easier way to locate all the cuts, but I still miss the landmarks that larger holes provide. Cutting by hand takes a while too. So I might skip the image flipping and instead tape the actual size printout to the top of the board to mark the cuts, then drill through.

[jugglindan]

Links done, but too tired to start populating with resistors. That can wait.
34946

[jugglindan]

Good run tonight watching B5. Board done apart from socketing the JFETs and op amps. I am still waiting to see if the 2N5952s and TL072s arrive in the post, or if I have to substitute J201 FETS and 4558D op amps. At top-right there is a socketed resistor. There is a mod (http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_p45_mods_instruct.pdf) that adjusts the value of this resistor to create an intensity control. I have socketed the stock value, and once the circuit is working I can try other values or wire in a pot if I like the effect.
34973

[jugglindan]

Two designs mocked up in Inkscape (yeay v1.0 :D )
34979

Leaning towards the first, since it is a phaser pedal, but I just like the idea of a pedal with a "warp factor" knob.

[Woltz]

Two designs mocked up in Inkscape (yeay v1.0 :D )
34979

Leaning towards the first, since it is a phaser pedal, but I just like the idea of a pedal with a "warp factor" knob.Tough choice. What about modifying the design to have the phase pistol shooting?

Or if you do starship then what about having it as it's engaging warp to illustrate movement?

Haha or ignore me, I just like toying with ideas.

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[jugglindan]

Tough choice. What about modifying the design to have the phase pistol shooting?

Or if you do starship then what about having it as it's engaging warp to illustrate movement?

Haha or ignore me, I just like toying with ideas.

Sent from my SM-G960F using TapatalkDo mean move the LED to the appropriate location? I could try a mock of that.

Also thinking of keeping the Enterprise version for a drive pedal. I am planning a 2 knob red llama so I could label the knobs impulse and warp.

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[jugglindan]

It's a shame the red llama doesn't have clipping diodes. I could use red LEDs and run them to the enclosure. Then the engine would light up as you play harder.

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[Andy40]

but then it would clip the awesomeness

[jugglindan]

It's not a shame for the circuit, just for my cheesy pedal idea.

Also, I just noticed that pedal parts Au list the red llama pcb in the fuzz category. I can't wait to build it. But I am still missing some parts.

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[jugglindan]

Tough choice. What about modifying the design to have the phase pistol shooting?

Or if you do starship then what about having it as it's engaging warp to illustrate movement?

Haha or ignore me, I just like toying with ideas.

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Here's a mock of how the LED as shooting phaser might work:
34999

[Woltz]

I wasn't necessarily suggesting the LED to be the tip of the phaser, I was mostly thinking about having a beam drawn as part of the graphic. Although that is interesting. What's your thoughts about that design?

[jugglindan]

To be honest, I don't love it. It's a bit too cheesy, and vaguely pornographic. Later tonight I will mix it up a bit and add some phaser rays, moving LED back to a standard spot.

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[jugglindan]

I like this version a lot more. I changed to a less busy knob, moved the LED, and drew some raygun style beams.

35003

I think I will go with this, barring minor adjustments when I test print for drilling locations.

[Woltz]

I like this version a lot more. I changed to a less busy knob, moved the LED, and drew some raygun style beams.

35003

I think I will go with this, barring minor adjustments when I test print for drilling locations.Yeh that version is much better. Good stuff.

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[McCreed]

That last one gets my vote! Nice work.

I'm not really a Star Trek fan, but I appreciate the humour. (I was going to say Star Wars just to stir you up, but I didn't :p)

[jugglindan]

That last one gets my vote! Nice work.

I'm not really a Star Trek fan, but I appreciate the humour. (I was going to say Star Wars just to stir you up, but I didn't :p)

That's OK, I am a Star Wars fan too. Pretty much all sci-fi actually. I started reading my Dad's Heinlein and Asimov novels before I was 10.

Given my dissatisfaction with downloaded drilling templates, I am using this pedal to learn some Inkscape basics (it's like an open source Illustrator). Tonight I just learned how to align objects correctly, and to use layers. This let me make a mock pedal with accurate sized knobs and switches, a printable decal, and a perfectly aligned drilling template (or so I hope):
35005

[jugglindan]

Obviously a Star Trek theme happening right now. This is a candidate design for the Red Llama.
35008

Unlike the phaser where I think it needs the black border, on this one I think the borderless design works better. And colour because I can pack this into the A4 special order decal I am getting for the blueycaster.

[McCreed]

...I think the borderless design works better.

Agreed.
It's weird, but the border actually makes the Enterprise look larger. (optical dillusion?)

[jugglindan]

Agreed.
It's weird, but the border actually makes the Enterprise look larger. (optical dillusion?)

I see that. I think the illusion is our brain interpreting the closest boundary in each design as the same size, which means the enterprise that is closest on the edges must be larger.

I think I would use a blue LED on this one, to echo the blue thingy on the front of the secondary hull. Trivia, I think this image that I shamelessly grabbed is from the Star Trek VI movie (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Enterprise_(NCC-1701-A)).

[jugglindan]

I have decided that the off-board wiring in a pedal build is a lot like sanding. Quite boring, but still needs to be done. Because of said boredom, I didn't get this completed:
35021

[jugglindan]

Why did I try a polished metal enclosure? Oh the polishing, oh the fingerprints. The fine swirly scratches are only visible under my work lamp. In normal lighting it looks very shiny. Plus there is a limit to my patience with metal polish. Next pedal is going to be painted again :)

Finally got the top clean enough to put the decal on. I was a bit nervous at this point since this is my first attempt at the One Decal to Rule Them All method (previously I put each component on separately).
35053

It worked OK. Decal is still a bit high but the glue started setting before I could move it down a bit more. Meh, it's good enough!
35054

Edit:
I need to put some clear coat over this tomorrow, but I am worried about adhesion on the polished surface. I don't want to sand either though cause I will lose the polish. Decisions, grr.

[Andy40]

Wait, how did you do the decal? did you print it or something and how did you get it to stick? same way as putting a decal on a headstock?

[jugglindan]

Wait, how did you do the decal? did you print it or something and how did you get it to stick? same way as putting a decal on a headstock?

I bought some laser printer clear waterslide decal sheets from Dr Decal and Mr Hyde, designed the decal in Inkscape, then printed it. For the application, I wet the surface, soak the decal then use cotton swabs (q-tips to some) to carefully move the decal into place. Then some dry cotton swabs to roll the bubbles out to the edges. I have to be careful during this stage as dragging the swab instead of rolling can dislodge the toner from the decal sheet.

Midday tomorrow I plan to turn on the heater in the shed and put a couple of clear acrylic coats over it. I hope I don't get adhesion issues like I did on the powder coat. I still don't know if I should sand with 1200 (not on the decal) or not before the clear goes on.

[Bakersdozen]

Looks great. Bet it sounds great too. Good luck with the clear..should be okay if you start with a light mist and then build up from there. Just go easy at first.

[jugglindan]

Looks great. Bet it sounds great too. Good luck with the clear..should be okay if you start with a light mist and then build up from there. Just go easy at first.

Thanks, I will try that.

I got the rest of the wiring done tonight, and some testing:
35055

It works, but I don't know if it sounds like it should since I have never played a real Phase 45 pedal and I have substituted the op amps and transistors. The op amps shouldn't matter but the transistors could well change the sound. After dialing in the trimpot, I get most of the phasing effect in the last 20% of the rate knob. At the highest setting it has more of a vibrato feel. Sounds good, but more vibrato than phasing. Backing the knob off full by even a tiny bit and it's back in phaser territory.

So it works well enough to box, and I can try the original spec transistors when they arrive. I could also try my other 2 matched J201s.

One minor hiccup: I got so carried away with the MDF jig to hold the jacks in place for soldering that I forgot the DC jack is threaded on the inside, so it needs to be soldered into the enclosure. I had to cut the wires and will fix when I box in a day or so.

[jugglindan]

Also, if I have the energy I could try to create a reverse log taper pot (http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm). That might give me a bit more control in the upper 20% of the range. Should be as simple as hooking a 2k resistor in parallel to the pot. That's one for tomorrow...

[Simon Barden]

I last played a Phase 45 in 1977. I now have a Phase 95, which does both the 45 and 90 thing in a mini package.

[jugglindan]

I last played a Phase 45 in 1977. I now have a Phase 95, which does both the 45 and 90 thing in a mini package.Do they do the vibrato thing with the rate knob maxed? I bet they dont[emoji16]

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[Simon Barden]

I will need to try that out.

[jugglindan]

I will need to try that out.

Great. I had a look at the circuit, and the spec sheets for the J201s vs the 2n5459s. There are some overlaps but also some big differences, and it's the variable resistance of the JFETs that produces the phasing effect, so I think my vibrato is mostly from the substitution. Maybe I just discovered a vibrato mod :)

[jugglindan]

Enclosure finished and pedal boxed:
35121

Knob is temporary, some better ones are still delayed in the post.

Transistors are also temporary. The J201s don't work right, but the 2N5459s are also delayed in the post.

And here it is on the board. 5 of 9 pedals are now made by me :)
35122

[Woltz]

Nice job mate.

[jugglindan]

Thanks. I will still swap the transistors when they arrive, but it has more phasing than I realised during testing. It needed to run after the other pedals and a bit of overdrive made the effect more noticeable. It's not an always on pedal (unlike the Barber which responds to the guitar volume so well), but I like it.

[Simon Barden]

Two more of your own pedals to replace two bought pedals and you can get in an a Seven of Nine Voyager/Borg reference.

[jugglindan]

Two more of your own pedals to replace two bought pedals and you can get in an a Seven of Nine Voyager/Borg reference.Lol!
I can definitely replace the pure sky, but the looper and tuner will be tough.

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[McCreed]

I can definitely replace the pure sky, but the looper and tuner will be tough.

Knowing your like of OD's, you could do a Zen Drive clone. They're a pretty cool pedal.
I have a Mooer clone and a hand-made one I bought off Reverb.

Which reminds me, I should put the latter back on the board. Haven't played it in a while...

Oh, and nice job on the phaser!

[jugglindan]

Knowing your like of OD's, you could do a Zen Drive clone. They're a pretty cool pedal.
I have a Mooer clone and a hand-made one I bought off Reverb.

Which reminds me, I should put the latter back on the board. Haven't played it in a while...

Oh, and nice job on the phaser!

Thanks!

Yes, the Zendrive is a nice sounding pedal (or so it appears from reviews and YouTube). I have never played the real thing but I do have a Zendrive patch in the Xtomp. The digital patches are close, but not the same. At the moment, the Barber CDD I built is doing a great job of covering the low to medium gain range. At low gain with the harmonics switch on, it adds a wonderful clarity and articulation to each note. Fingerpicked passages pop and chords sparkle. Of course this is also from the buffer and orange squeezer. Since adding the buffer I need to keep the guitar tone at 60%. Previously it was always maxed. And I have dropped the treble on the amp to boot.

I am thinking of something more in a distortion or fuzz actually. I have a design and decals ready for the Warp Drive, just not 100% decided on what circuit it will be. If the Red Llama gets dirty enough then maybe that, but I am also going to breadboard some fuzzes. The Mosrite Fuzzrite looks interesting, as do silicon fuzz faces. Or maybe one of the 500 different Big Muff circuits, but they tend to be more complex and need more expensive sets of matched transistors.

Oh, the options are dizzying ...

[jugglindan]

Maybe a hoof (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/03/earthquaker-devices-hoof-fuzz.html), with a switchable tentacle (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2016/11/earthquaker-devices-tentacle.html)in the same box?

Or maybe, just maybe, I should stop building pedals for a while and bl**dy well play instead?

Nah

[jugglindan]

A Ge fuzz is right out. Just checked prices on some Ge transistors - ouch!

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[Fretworn]

Did you deliberately choose a Phase45, not a Phase 90? Were you looking for the more subtle effect?

[jugglindan]

Did you deliberately choose a Phase45, not a Phase 90? Were you looking for the more subtle effect?

Yep. But because of my transistor substitution, this one is a lot more subtle than it should be. A friend has a phase 45 they built from a kit and it sounds a lot better.

[jugglindan]

New knob is much better than the temporary one:
35504

The correct transistors still haven't arrived, but I am growing to like the sound of the pedal as-is. I may not bother to mess with it.

[Bakersdozen]

Looks pimp, I love a good chicken head knob

[jugglindan]

Looks pimp, I love a good chicken head knob

These were pretty reasonably priced at Jaycar. And it suits the design (I hope).

[Bakersdozen]

I was going to say it suits it very very well. Looks really trick. Matches the stun gun perfectly. Same knob (jaycar sourced) I have planned for the Vol knob on the Daily Driver.

[jugglindan]

I was going to say it suits it very very well. Looks really trick. Matches the stun gun perfectly. Same knob (jaycar sourced) I have planned for the Vol knob on the Daily Driver.I hope it fits next to the harmonics switch.

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[Bakersdozen]

I hope it fits next to the harmonics switch.

Sent from my moto g(7) using TapatalkShould be sweet. It worked on the OG pedal

[Sonic Mountain]

These were pretty reasonably priced at Jaycar. And it suits the design (I hope).

I have the same ones on my first kit build.

[jugglindan]

I have the same ones on my first kit build.

They are nice knobs. I think I will use them on the noisy cricket amp. I was going to use the knobs I liberated from the Kustom 30W chassis I picked up for $5, but they have some weird chamfered shaft diameter that doesn't fit the pots :(