Coat on top of dingo tone?

[Diggydude]

Hello,

First time using dingo tone and have applied it successfully. I have applied it on the headstock which is, believe it or not, where I plan to put my logo. My previous method of decal was with sticky tape, meaning adding lots of acrylic clear coat on top to get it smooth.

Can I do this over dingo tone? Is it better to try a different decal method, maybe on that doesn’t create a visible bump? I know waterslide is the proper way but I haven’t been able to find any- can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks,
Dylan

[Andy40]

Hi Dylan,

Dingotone is an oil based product. I have never used acrylic over it but I think it would be okay.

I normally use Tru oil as a final coat over Dingo tone and its never been an issue, especially caking it over a decal.

[IngridM]

Andy - can you tell us when in the process you do TO after DT?

I’ve got my final final coat of DT drying now. How long do I wait before applying TO?
Is it:
A) apply final coat of DT, wait 2 weeks, then TO, (then wait again or not?) then final polish
Or B) DT, allow to dry a few days, then TO then allow weeks for final dry then final polish?

Thanks!!!

[Andy40]

Hi IngridM,

If you are using Tru oil as a top coat then you don't need to use the DT final coats, you can put the tru oil over the intensifying coat.

If you have already put a final coat of DT on you'll need to wait until that has cured before you start the coats of tru oil. This is because tru oil dries very fast, like within 4 hours for each coat. If the DT final coat has not cured, it will be trapped under the coat of tru oil and wont ever cure (or seem like it anyway).

So, one the final coat of DT final coat has dried (which can take some time) test it with your thumbnail. once its cured, you can apply your tru oil coats.

[Andy40]

This it the tru oil process that I follow and was given to me by a master of the process on this forum:

After an initial deep soak coat, I put on about 6-10 thin coats of TO to begin with. At this stage the finish is starting to thicken and get shiny. I then start wet sanding, usually with 400 grit. It depends on how low you went with your initial sanding - typically I use one step above my final sanding grade. Anyway lets say 400. I do a light wet sand with 400 - not enough to go through the layer! and then put 3 more coats on. Repeat with 400. Basically you keep doing this, going up the grades. I have no definitive answer to when you step up the paper, but I go by feel - you can feel the whole thing getting smoother. I go typically 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 - with at least 2 coats in between each wet sand. At around 1200 grit you'll find that TO in its normal form will stop laying down flat and will leave streaks and ridges from wiping on. That's when I start to thin it 50/50 with turps. You can get a smooth layer again, but the layers are even thinner! After 2000 grit you can add a final couple of layers TO and then polish with compound. Just be very careful not to polish through the layer. I do find that getting that *last* nice layer of TO is a challenge even with the thinning. A couple of tries with wet sanding is usually required.

[IngridM]

This is incredibly helpful, thank you Andy40!!!

[wazkelly]

This it the tru oil process that I follow and was given to me by a master of the process on this forum:

I do find that getting that *last* nice layer of TO is a challenge even with the thinning. A couple of tries with wet sanding is usually required.

Hi Andy, On my past couple of builds I did the last couple of coats full strength as the thinned down ones weren't holding on strong enough for the subsequent wet sand. Once you are up to using 2000 grit everything becomes very, very smooth where next coat goes down really well as there was still just enough tooth but the one after may misbehave as it struggles to grip onto the coat underneath. Just a few drops of turps in that coat seemed to sort it out enough to keep progressing onwards and upwards. At this stage I was starting to wet sand every 2nd coat too (Swampy & MMB4).

Cheers, Waz

[Andy40]

Good point Waz

[McCreed]

As we all know here, there are multiple ways to skin that proverbial cat. I have never found the need to thin Tru Oil. I've always used it neat and never had a problem with it. Thinking back, it's probably the only finish product I haven't had at least some issue with!

As for wet sanding (and polishing) I have always done that as a final step. Never an interim one, and any sanding between coats has always been extremely minimal with quite fine pads. (except for that time some flying insect decided to crash land in my wet finish!)

I reckon having a range of experiences and perspectives here gives others options to find what works for them.

[Rabbit]

HI know waterslide is the proper way but I haven’t been able to find any- can anyone point me in the right direction?


I got printable sheets of A4 water slide from a vendor called ozsuperstar on ebay.

[IngridM]

I've had some issues with streaking/lines in my Tru-Oil, which I'm sure is applicator (me) error.
I think the main issue is some coats have been too heavy.
Am I working it all the way in until it looks more of a matte finish, or just coating it all?
I am using old t-shirt and seem to be getting streaks with both approaches.

Also if anyone has advice for sanding back the neck between T/O coats? I have flexible sanding pads/foam blocks but the first go did not turn out well. Very uneven and I'm scared of going right through the T/O.

[McCreed]

My first thought would be, yes, possibly too thick. Hard to say for sure without seeing it.

As for t-shirt material, that's what I use, but I make sure it's good 100% cotton material. I just think it makes a difference in the way the cloth absorbs the Tru Oil (or poly). That may be all in my head, but it what I do.

Secondly, I cut the cloth into roughly a 5" square (125mm) and fold it into a nice tight "pad". Ends up about 30mm or so wide.
When I fold it, I fold all the edges into the middle from each direction (if that makes sense) so that there are no "cut" edges exposed on the folded up pad. This prevents any loose fibres from the cut fabric fraying and leaving debris in the finish or leaving trail marks by dragging through the wet finish.

Once the pad has been sufficiently wetted (after the first few applications) I only re-wet with about 5 or 6 drops of finish from the bottle and work in small areas at a time. I just keep repeating with that process until I get progressively even patches covering the entire work area. This is less than scientific, and the actual quantity of oil/poly is not much more than an educated guess. You'll just have to play with it to see what works for you. Also, I work in straight lines (like painting) not a circular motion.

re: sanding - I don't sand between every coat. My first sand (with a synthetic sand pad) is not until I have enough coats that it's built up enough to actually developing a bit of a sheen, then, it's only enough to basically de-nib the surface. Subsequent sanding I only do after every 6-8 more coats unless there is something that needs fixing before the next coat (debris, fingerprint, bug).

edited for some typos :o

[GregLane]

I have used truoil on three guitars starting as a rank amateur ( now just an amateur)

I find truoil very forgiving. You can find lots of truoil comments in my builds below.

My current procedure is as follows starting on raw or filled wood and stain.
1. 3-5 thick coasts
2. Before the next coat id rub with a:
Grey 748 Norton Bear-Tex Pad
SKU: BTP748
Final Shine pad.
Colour - Grey
Microfine, Grit 1000 -1200
Grain - Silicon Carbide
Size - 150 mm x 230 mm
The finest Bear-Tex grit available, producing the highest quality surface finish.

available from the Sandpaper Man or any paint shop. Scotchbrite has a similar product.

A light rub taking of any marks in the last coat until the you get a light matt finish. A litttle extra rub on blemishes

3. Same for next 5 coasts.
4 Level with a fine micromesh pad. One in the middle of the pack obtained from Sandpaper Man. I have not had success with 1200 sandpaper. It leaves fine scratches you only notice after the next coat.
5. Five more coats . Light rub between each.
6 Another level with microfibre.
7 etc. I have never done less than 30 coats

7 Finally 2 coats of Tru-Oil 50/50 with Turps ( Nice and wet but smooth). Do not rub in between.

Hope this helps. Does get a bit nerve racking. But always fixable with care. In particular check my ES build for drama.
Good Luck
Greg