Has anyone had custom body routing done? What’s the process?

[Joe Garfield]

My next order will be a custom PSH-1. I’d like different shaped f-holes, possibly more internal routing for the hollow cavity. I was wondering if anyone has had custom body routing done and what the process is - how does the new design make it to the factory, and how do we know it’s done the way we like?

I also want to change scale length, drilled for tune-o-Matic but only the front holes, one of the switches omitted, and with a mahogany body. Does that much change sound too risky?

Thanks!

[Simon Barden]

There's a limit to how 'custom' the factory can do. They can do simple changes - omissions are easiest - but even simple things like different binding materials have stumped them or been ignored. I've had P90 routs done on an ES-1 rather than the standard humbucker ones, but they've got the template for that, so it's doable.

As the PSH-1 appears to be of an all-hollow body construction with a solid centre block, I'm not sure where you'd get more body routing done (though I may be wrong). If so, it's not like a Tele thinline construction where a larger rout is an option. I do have a very similar shaped kit body with a mahogany body and the chambers in that are very large and not just a bit bigger than the f-hole area but run all the way forwards and backwards.

I agree that those big F-holes are fugly and ruin the looks of the body for me. As long as the factory that makes the PHS-1 also does the ES-1 styles (or similar,) then that smaller Gibson-style of F-hole should be doable, but PBG get their kits from several different factories, so there's no guarantee here.

Not at all sure about a different scale length. I'd imagine that all the set-neck guitars are 24.75" scale length, so it would be very custom. And as the kit is already drilled for just a T-O-M or wrap-over bridge I wouldn't guarantee that they'd move the post holes back a bit to compensate for the scale length change. If you don't tell the factory exactly what to do, every little change required, they won't think for you, so you'll get them in the same (now wrong) position.

A mahogany body could be a viable option as they should have mahogany blocks available for the solid body PRS shaped guitars

It's always best on custom orders to have an email conversation with Adam to see what he thinks the factory can do. But the factories do tend to say 'yes' to everything and then present you with a kit that can be missing several vital changes. If the factory get it wrong, then Adam is very good and will let you know and you don't have to accept it. But it's not like a Fender or Gibson custom shop, as everything is done on the main production line using routers and templates. They won't create a new jig or template just to do one guitar.

[Joe Garfield]

Thanks Simon. I hope you’re right about the body cavity! I’ve had semi-hollows that were nice and resonant, and one or two with small cavities that played and felt like solid bodies. I guess I’m expecting the worst and hoping for the bet. I have a PSH-1 on the way but it could be a few more weeks due to shipping delays.

Yeah I had talked briefly to Adam about customizations and I believe most/all of this can be done, I just was curious what the experience has been with getting it right.

I’d be OK with ES1GT F-holes, I just have no idea where they’ll be positioned. And maybe it will be better to just not drill for the bridge, IDK.

I sent an email to Adam and we’ll see how it goes :)

[king casey]

I agree that those big F-holes are fugly and ruin the looks of the body for me.

I have to agree about that. Would it be possible to have no F holes and do them yourself?

cheers, Mark

[Joe Garfield]

I definitely thought about and am considering that. Unfortunately binding F-holes already cut on a guitar seems to be extremely tedious. F-holes are usually cut and bound with the top separated from the body. Since it’s a laminated top I’d probably want to do something to treat the edges, so maybe filler and paint/stain. Maybe sealing the edge wont be so bad if it’s a solid maple top?

It would be nice to have just the right shape. Just as long as the veneer shapes well with the solid top. And I guess it would eliminate binding gaps and the glue joint.

[Joe Garfield]

Also IDK if binding might be needed around sharp corners?

[Simon Barden]

Gibson 335s don't have bound f-holes and they have laminated tops. So you don't have to have bound F-holes, even with laminates.

[Joe Garfield]

Thanks for that info Simon, that helps. I’ll order without F-holes and will design and cut my own. I think it will look amazing =D