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Woltz
12-04-2020, 07:34 PM
I mentioned in my Aion Gale thread that I'd ordered an Aurora PCB from Aion Electronics at the same time as I got the Gale PCB.

Here is the link for anyone interested: https://aionelectronics.com/project/aurora-ross-dyna-compressor/

I'll post up some photos when the parts arrive.

jugglindan
12-04-2020, 08:46 PM
Nice, I can't wait to see how it goes.

I haven't built a compressor yet, but it's been on my list for a while. Currently using the digital compression built in to my amp (THR10C) but I am moving more and more towards analog pedals. For quite a while I have been leaning towards an Orange Squeezer type of circuit, either on stripboard (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/orange-squeezer.html) or one of the PCBs that are around. But after reading this review on Ovni Labs (http://www.ovnilab.com/reviews/after.shtml) of the Madbean (https://www.madbeanpedals.com/index.html)Afterlife I am thinking of ordering a Madbean 4:1 PCB. It's the Afterlife with an additional blend control for mixing the dry and compressed signals. PCB is just $6 US but like most things the postage and exchange rates will hurt. It's designed for a 1590G enclosure, but that appears to require some parts I don't have like low-profile foot-switches. I would probably just build it into a 125B and try to stick to parts I already have.

jugglindan
12-04-2020, 08:55 PM
Ah yes, exchange rate and postage. Turns a $6 PCB into a $30 PCB. Maybe back to an Orange Squeezer on stripboard :)

Andy40
13-04-2020, 03:03 PM
Nice, I built the Madbean 4:1 which utilises an optocoupler.

where are you getting the CA3080 OTA? or are you using an LM13700?

jugglindan
13-04-2020, 03:29 PM
How do you find the 4:1? Once I saw how much the PCB was going to cost, I went back to planning a stripboard build of an Orange Squeezer. But then I found that the 2N5457 JFETs are getting quite pricey now (over $10 for 2 or 3). I ended up getting a Julius kit from Pedal Parts Australia for $25. It's a great price. Won't start until I finish my other pedal projects though.

Woltz
13-04-2020, 04:10 PM
Nice, I built the Madbean 4:1 which utilises an optocoupler.

where are you getting the CA3080 OTA? or are you using an LM13700?Pedal parts have CA3080s but I ended up ordering a couple from Worldwide Electronics Components in Bayswater in Perth.

All the other components I'm going to order from Pedal Parts to keep it simple by getting it all from the one spot.

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Andy40
13-04-2020, 04:53 PM
Great, thanks Woltz, this will be my next compressor build

Andy40
13-04-2020, 04:57 PM
How do you find the 4:1? Once I saw how much the PCB was going to cost, I went back to planning a stripboard build of an Orange Squeezer. But then I found that the 2N5457 JFETs are getting quite pricey now (over $10 for 2 or 3). I ended up getting a Julius kit from Pedal Parts Australia for $25. It's a great price. Won't start until I finish my other pedal projects though.

I usually order a bunch of PCB's from Madbean for my "pedalfest" for that year. lol
It was shakey start, I muffed the 4:1 build once as I didn't use 9mm aplha pots and tried off board 16mn pots. I really didn't like the size of the enclosure I needed so I got some replacement pots and bingo! works a charm. Look I don;t use a lot of compressor, but it does the job when I need it.

I like Pedal Parts Aust, I did their Boost kit and works great. actually one of the best boost pedals I have.

jugglindan
13-04-2020, 05:42 PM
16mm pots are not usually a problem for me since I have a stack of 125B enclosures which have plenty of room inside. I am putting the Julius into a smaller enclosure though.

The boost on my OD-2 is quite nice, but I don't use it much. I prefer to use my Timmy clone at a low gain setting in much the same way. I like the tonal texture more, and it drives my other dirt pedals wonderfully when I want.

I use light compression all the time. It's just always on. I like the way it evens out the attack and makes fingerpicking pop a bit more. Unlike standard wisdom, I run compression after dirt. That way I get a more dynamic response from the dirt pedals.

Andy40
14-04-2020, 03:43 AM
Ohhh I've wanted to build a Timmy, but haven't got around to it. Did you get a Timmy PCB or etch or vero board?

Have you tried a Red Llama clone? one of my fave OD's

jugglindan
14-04-2020, 06:34 AM
Ohhh I've wanted to build a Timmy, but haven't got around to it. Did you get a Timmy PCB or etch or vero board?

Have you tried a Red Llama clone? one of my fave OD's

Sorry to disappoint, but my Timmy clone is a Caline Pure Sky bought from eBay. My current Direct Drive is the first pedal I have built on stripboard (have built other circuits but not pedals). There is a layout on tagboardeffects (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/03/paul-cochrane-timmy.html), and it has nearly half the component count of a direct drive, so I might build one in the future. The Pure sky doesn't have the clipping diode selection switch. I have all the components on hand except for the JRC4559 but I could sub a 4558.

No, never tried a Red Llama. I was going to build a Red Snapper (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/menatone-red-snapper-4-knob.html), but I don't have all the parts. It's not at all the same, just "red" :)

Andy40
15-04-2020, 03:41 AM
Very cool still. The Tag board schematic doesn't look too difficult.

If you want to have a go at the Red Llama have a look at my Snarkdoodle thread. I think it works well as a clean boost, to meaty overdrive to a very saturated distortion pedal. Its got a nice interplay with different types of amp.

McCreed
15-04-2020, 06:39 AM
Sorry to disappoint, but my Timmy clone is a Caline Pure Sky bought from eBay.

Hah! I have one of those, as well as the Caline Orange Burst (alleged BB Preamp clone). Both are actually great sounding pedals and work incredibly well together. I use the PS as light - medium OD into the OB to get extra dirt (or by themselves). Hard to beat for 40 bucks AUD.

I haven't done any internal mods, only cosmetic mods to the enclosures just to personalise them a bit:

34557

jugglindan
15-04-2020, 08:02 AM
Very cool still. The Tag board schematic doesn't look too difficult.

If you want to have a go at the Red Llama have a look at my Snarkdoodle thread. I think it works well as a clean boost, to meaty overdrive to a very saturated distortion pedal. Its got a nice interplay with different types of amp.

It was your thread that turned me off any homebrew PCB attempts! I am just not sure how many dirt pedals I really need. I already have 4 on my board and am building #5. So what to do with a hobby that boils down to building things I don't need?

jugglindan
15-04-2020, 08:10 AM
Hah! I have one of those, as well as the Caline Orange Burst (alleged BB Preamp clone). Both are actually great sounding pedals and work incredibly well together. I use the PS as light - medium OD into the OB to get extra dirt (or by themselves). Hard to beat for 40 bucks AUD.

I haven't done any internal mods, only cosmetic mods to the enclosures just to personalise them a bit:



I agree, the PS is a great sounding light OD for the price. Probably for any price. I use it as the first pedal in my chain (after the tuner). I use it alone for strumming sorts of things like playing along to the Lumineers, or stacked into one of the other pedals. A homebrew Timmy or AC Booster might be the only thing to evict it.

I have read a comparison of the Xotic pedals RC, AC, & BB. The circuits for all three are very similar. I have a vision of all three on a single board with a switch to select. The switching would likely be too complex though, but switching some key components might be interesting. Sounds like a breadboard project.

Woltz
15-04-2020, 08:25 AM
Listening to you guys makes me realise I need to do more pedals after these two. The question is what pedals to get when I have a Marshall DSL Amp not a solid state amp.

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Andy40
15-04-2020, 12:34 PM
You ....Need...(to make)....More...Pedals :o

Woltz
15-04-2020, 12:38 PM
You ....Need...(to make)....More...Pedals :oLol I'm thinking maybe a Trem pedal and a Delay pedal next.

I actually want to have a go at building a tube amp as well but looking at prices the transformers are a fair hit to the back pocket.

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jugglindan
15-04-2020, 08:21 PM
Listening to you guys makes me realise I need to do more pedals after these two. The question is what pedals to get when I have a Marshall DSL Amp not a solid state amp.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I guess it depends on what sounds you like, and what style you play. There are kits and stripboard circuits for nearly everything.

I mostly play at night when everyone else is asleep. Dirt pedals into my THR-10 give me lots of options at low volume. Apart from overdrives and compression I also like occasional phaser, delay (set on 1 30ms repeat to thicken notes), and chorus. Most of those circuits are more complex than drive pedals, but in a PCB kit they would be fine.

Andy40
16-04-2020, 12:03 PM
I actually want to have a go at building a tube amp as well

One of the best things I ever did was to build an amp. now I am highly addicted.

Doing a scratch build now of a 5E3 which I intend to mod.

I might do a build diary if there is interest. I sourced all of the parts here in Australia and saved a bucket load on shipping from the US

Woltz
16-04-2020, 12:05 PM
One of the best things I ever did was to build an amp. now I am highly addicted.

Doing a scratch build now of a 5E3 which I intend to mod.

I might do a build diary if there is interest. I sourced all of the parts here in Australia and saved a bucket load on shipping from the USDefinitely interested in following along because that's the amp I was considering building.

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Andy40
16-04-2020, 12:14 PM
I built my first Tweed Deluxe as a learning build, I never realised how awesome an amp it is, even at home levels. Takes pedals really well too. Another good thing about the 5E3 is that it doesn't cost an arm and a leg to change the tubes as there are only 5 of them, not 8 or more.

I'll to a build diary then, together with links for all the parts. I haven't done a total sum of the parts yet so it will be interesting to cost it out.

I wanted to build a Deluxe Reverb after that but I've hit a snag as you can't get the Chassis in Australia and I don't have the metal working skillz to bend and weld the chassis.

now considering a Bluesbreaker build for the end of this year or early 2021.

jugglindan
16-04-2020, 12:17 PM
One of the best things I ever did was to build an amp. now I am highly addicted.

Doing a scratch build now of a 5E3 which I intend to mod.

I might do a build diary if there is interest. I sourced all of the parts here in Australia and saved a bucket load on shipping from the US

Definitely interested in a build diary. A DIY tube amp has been on my wishlist for a long time. I have been turned off by parts costs so far, so interested in info on that as well. Unlike pedals where I can build a boutique pedal clone for $30, parts for an amp seem to cost as much as an amp. Amp kits seem to cost more than an assembled amp!

jugglindan
16-04-2020, 12:19 PM
I built my first Tweed Deluxe as a learning build, I never realised how awesome an amp it is, even at home levels. Takes pedals really well too. Another good thing about the 5E3 is that it doesn't cost an arm and a leg to change the tubes as there are only 5 of them, not 8 or more.

I'll to a build diary then, together with links for all the parts. I haven't done a total sum of the parts yet so it will be interesting to cost it out.

I wanted to build a Deluxe Reverb after that but I've hit a snag as you can't get the Chassis in Australia and I don't have the metal working skillz to bend and weld the chassis.

now considering a Bluesbreaker build for the end of this year or early 2021.

So many tasty amps mentioned. I don't know what exactly I would build, but requirements would be: good at low volume, not too complex, and a good pedal platform.

Woltz
16-04-2020, 12:23 PM
I want to have a go at building an AC15 or AC30 but they are quite a bit more complicated so should start with something simpler like the 5E3 or 5F1 for my first.

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Andy40
16-04-2020, 12:24 PM
Either a 5F1 Champ or a 5E3 Deluxe is the go. The 5F1 will set you back about $500 - $600 in parts and the 5E3 will set you back about $1000 in parts.

......As long as you have a reverb pedal. I need the verb. I built my reverb pedal and I love it. It was the Moodring from MadBead Pedals.

jugglindan
16-04-2020, 12:44 PM
Those prices make the Lamington amp kits (https://valveheaven.com/) look like very good value! Just need to build a cabinet and buy/reclaim a speaker.

Andy40
16-04-2020, 01:25 PM
Mate, nothing wrong with cake tin amps, I just wouldn't gig with them

jugglindan
16-04-2020, 01:28 PM
I am purely a home player, so I can live with a fragile non-gigable amp

Woltz
19-04-2020, 06:08 PM
Either a 5F1 Champ or a 5E3 Deluxe is the go. The 5F1 will set you back about $500 - $600 in parts and the 5E3 will set you back about $1000 in parts.

......As long as you have a reverb pedal. I need the verb. I built my reverb pedal and I love it. It was the Moodring from MadBead Pedals.

I just priced up all the parts for a 5E3 and if I was to get almost everything from Evatco it comes in just under $800 for everything except the cabinet which I'd make myself. Shopping around may save a few $$ here or there and making the Chassis would also save some $$.

Just in case anyone else is following this thread and is interested, here is a rough breakdown not including a cabinet:

Speaker - $127.95
Power Transformer - $169
Output Transformer - $89
Chassis - $80

Tubes - $139.40
(2 x 6V6 Power Tube - $68
5Y3 Rectifier Tube - $29.95
12AX7 Preamp Tube - $18.50
12AY7 Preamp Tube - $22.95)

Resistors - $2.65
Caps - $65.56
Everything else - $126.97

Cliff Rogers
19-04-2020, 07:19 PM
............................
Doing a scratch build now of a 5E3 which I intend to mod.

I might do a build diary if there is interest. I sourced all of the parts here in Australia and saved a bucket load on shipping from the US
I'm interested. :cool:

Woltz
01-05-2020, 06:00 AM
How are you guys doing graphics and designs on enclosures that are powdercoated. I've got a black enclosure for the Gale and Red for the Aurora coming from Tayda.

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jugglindan
01-05-2020, 07:24 AM
How are you guys doing graphics and designs on enclosures that are powdercoated. I've got a black enclosure for the Gale and Red for the Aurora coming from Tayda.

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I mostly buy bare metal enclosures (although everyone seems sold out right now), so I have been painting with etch primer then acrylic lacquers (duplicolor from the Repco clearance bins, or SCA paint). I leave that to dry for 6 hours then put home-printed waterslide decals on, leave that to dry overnight and then on with 2 clear coats.

I have found that if I spray colour in the morning I can put decals on in the evening and clear the next day. The paint needs to be dry enough for decal application but I still get a good bond with the clear.

The one powdercoated enclosure I have took the decals well but the acrylic lacquer clear totally refused to bond. It dried and then peeled off in large chunks. I don't yet know if sanding the powdercoat would help bonding, or if I need a different type of paint.

I got the decal paper from Dr Decal and Mr Hyde. I only have a mono laser printer, so am stuck with black decals. If you have colour then you have more options (just be sure to get the right paper type). I get most of my fonts from 1001 Fonts (https://www.1001fonts.com/).

So that's how I have been doing my enclosures, but I realise I haven't answered your question at all. All I can offer is what didn't work with powdercoating :(

McCreed
01-05-2020, 07:38 AM
I got the decal paper from Dr Decal and Mr Hyde.

Totally off topic here but, curious how you guys pronounce the word "decal"?

Do you say "deckle" (like freckle) or "dee-cal" (cal as in Cal-ifornia)?

jugglindan
01-05-2020, 07:56 AM
Totally off topic here but, curious how you guys pronounce the word "decal"?

Do you say "deckle" (like freckle) or "dee-cal" (cal as in Cal-ifornia)?

"dee-cal" for me. But Dr Decal and Mr Hyde suggests the other version.

Both the Collins (https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/decal)and Oxford Learner (https://www.oxfordlearnersdictionaries.com/definition/english/decal?q=decal) dictionaries go with "dee-cal".

McCreed
01-05-2020, 08:21 AM
Both the Collins and Oxford Learner dictionaries go with "dee-cal".

Me too. I always thought "deckle" just sounds weird.

jugglindan
01-05-2020, 11:43 AM
Me too. I always thought "deckle" just sounds weird.

I have never heard someone say "deckle".

Simon Barden
01-05-2020, 04:11 PM
I think I say something akin to 'deckle'. I remember when they simply used to be called transfers. Simpler times.

jugglindan
01-05-2020, 04:41 PM
I think I say something akin to 'deckle'. I remember when they simply used to be called transfers. Simpler times.

One of the dictionaries I looked up gave the Brit pronunciation as "transfer".

Simon Barden
01-05-2020, 04:55 PM
Indeed. Airfix model kits always called them transfers in the instructions, and it was only when we started to get Revell kits from the US in the shops that I started to see 'decal' being used.

jugglindan
01-05-2020, 05:15 PM
Cultural imperialism

Woltz
04-05-2020, 09:17 AM
Just arrived.

https://i.imgur.com/EKeygWp.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2Deiqpz.jpg

Andy40
04-05-2020, 09:21 AM
Bet you are stoked!

jugglindan
04-05-2020, 09:22 AM
Awesome!!

I also love that this thread got to 5 pages before you even started the build :)

Woltz
04-05-2020, 09:36 AM
Bet you are stoked!

Yep, I'm itching to get started right now haha. Initial impressions are that the quality seems to be pretty good.


Awesome!!

I also love that this thread got to 5 pages before you even started the build :)

Haha I noticed the same thing.

jugglindan
04-05-2020, 09:40 AM
Yep, I'm itching to get started right now haha. Initial impressions are that the quality seems to be pretty good.


Yeah, the layout seems sensible and the screenprinted component labels really help reduce errors. The tinned-through holes can make desoldering components tedious though, so here's hoping you don't need to do that.

Woltz
13-05-2020, 08:16 AM
Board populated. Just need to solder switch, pots, led and wires then I can test.

https://i.imgur.com/YI3SvTP.jpg

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jugglindan
13-05-2020, 11:19 AM
Looks good. I always find the off-board wiring the least exciting part of a build. Do you have a mini-board for the footswitch, or will you be direct wiring it?

Also I like the third hand. A lot of mine is broken, but it's amazing what I can do with just one clip. I also like the insulation on yours. I have some heatshrink tubing that I could use on my clip.

Be sure to save some of the longer lead off-cuts. You will need them for making links if you do any stripboard builds.

Woltz
13-05-2020, 11:27 AM
Looks good. I always find the off-board wiring the least exciting part of a build. Do you have a mini-board for the footswitch, or will you be direct wiring it?

Also I like the third hand. A lot of mine is broken, but it's amazing what I can do with just one clip. I also like the insulation on yours. I have some heatshrink tubing that I could use on my clip.

Be sure to save some of the longer lead off-cuts. You will need them for making links if you do any stripboard builds.Wiring direct but I have the wiring diagram so shouldn't be too difficult. Haha it's just electrical tape because I had nothing else. Heatshrink would be good.

I'm on the fence about soldering the pots and switch on before the enclosure gets here on this one. On the Gale I had 3 pots and if the holes are slightly out when I drill there is enough flexibility in the pot legs to get the pots to line up with the holes. But on this one if it didn't line up properly I'd have to desolder and resolder because there is no flexibility with the switch. But without those components attached I can't test it out haha. First world dilemma.

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jugglindan
13-05-2020, 11:52 AM
You can see in my Phase 45 thread I made a enclosure jig out of thin MDF. I drilled holes using the enclosure template. It helps hold things steady but also lets me test the template itself - are the pots close but not too close etc.

Woltz
13-05-2020, 12:23 PM
You can see in my Phase 45 thread I made a enclosure jig out of thin MDF. I drilled holes using the enclosure template. It helps hold things steady but also lets me test the template itself - are the pots close but not too close etc.Yep I might do that. I must've missed that in your thread.

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jugglindan
13-05-2020, 01:01 PM
Yep I might do that. I must've missed that in your thread.

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Just don't make my mistake. My DC jacks have the thread on the inside of the case, so they need to be soldered into the enclosure with the nut already threaded over the wires. I completely forgot this last night and soldered the jack into the MDF! So I had to cut it off after testing. Still need to clean up the solder so I can box the circuit. Fortunately I have enough length on the wires so I don't need to change anything else.

Woltz
13-05-2020, 01:11 PM
Yep mine are the same type as you've got. Not really much of a way to avoid it if you want to test outside the enclosure and you want to have the leads soldered during testing.

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jugglindan
13-05-2020, 01:36 PM
Yep mine are the same type as you've got. Not really much of a way to avoid it if you want to test outside the enclosure and you want to have the leads soldered during testing.

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Normally during testing I leave the DC jack leads unsoldered and use alligator leads to hook up a 9v battery to the tinned ends.

Woltz
13-05-2020, 01:38 PM
Normally during testing I leave the DC jack leads unsoldered and use alligator leads to hook up a 9v battery to the tinned ends.I'd do that if I had a set here haha. I think a trip to Jaycar may happen soon for that and a few other things.

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Joe Garfield
13-05-2020, 05:57 PM
I’m stoked to find this thread here! I’m considering a compressor for my first build and would love a 3-4 knob Ross-based comp. I had a Keeley 4c before I sold my guitars and really liked it.

Does anyone know much about the Aurora mods people talk about? I don’t see that in the documentation (maybe pots vs switches, or added features?)

jugglindan
13-05-2020, 06:28 PM
I’m stoked to find this thread here! I’m considering a compressor for my first build and would love a 3-4 knob Ross-based comp.

I’ll have to read through this thread but I’m curious what people are doing for the chip? Small Bear’s site says they’re in-stock but there’s no button to ‘add to cart’.

Edit: I’m confused by the 2 versions: the old version (still available) uses the CA3080, and it sounds like it has the Attack knob? And the new version uses LM13700 but they don’t mention more than 2 knobs. Which is being built here?

Pedal Parts Australia (https://www.pedalpartsaustralia.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78_92&zenid=6d4efaa2cdd7d0ab495a893d7f4ccc0b) sells CA3080 chips, but they are expensive (but at 10AUD, the exchange rate will work in your favor). They also sell Ross compressor kits, but they are 2 knob versions.

There are also ways to use the cheaper LM13700 with PCB designed for the CA3080 (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/10/emma-transmorgrifier.html).

Joe Garfield
13-05-2020, 06:47 PM
Sorry I edited my previous post a million times while I was learning about this. I found that Aion has a V2 aurora board specifically for the LM13700. I’m about to hit 6 weeks waiting for my guitar from Australia so I think I’ll hold off on international shipping for awhile.

Woltz
13-05-2020, 06:51 PM
G'day Joe, Aion have an old version (which is the one I'm building) that fits a 1590B enclosure and uses the CA3080 and they have a new version for a 125B enclosure that uses the LM13700 as you found. I'm building the old version with the Janglebox mods as per the guide on their website (https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7m5f9rbe6d68f2/aion-aurora-ross-compressor-documentation.pdf?dl=1).

Small Bear is closed for orders at the moment because of Covid. You can browse their site but you can't order anything.

Alternate supplier for CA3080 - http://www.worldwideelectroniccomponents.com.au/

Joe Garfield
13-05-2020, 07:04 PM
G’Day, Woltz! Thank you.

Joe Garfield
14-05-2020, 07:43 AM
Are you making any substitutions to the capacitors - like different materials or anything?

Woltz
14-05-2020, 11:48 AM
Are you making any substitutions to the capacitors - like different materials or anything?I did it exactly as the build instructions said for the Janglebox variant. There was the option to use electrolytic or tantalum for a couple caps. I chose to use tantalum.

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Woltz
14-05-2020, 12:03 PM
Got it all wired up to test and had no sound. I was thinking it was going to be a nightmare to find the issue but fortunately the build instructions include the schematic so I was able to look at the schematic and I realised I'd missed a jumper.

So after a quick solder here it is. I'll tidy up the offboard wiring when eventually the enclosures arrive.

Having tested it out, my initial impression is that I like it the most on the brightest position of the 3 way switch.

https://i.imgur.com/YcsRFwC.jpg

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jugglindan
14-05-2020, 12:53 PM
Looks good. You will need to desolder the DC jack, since it needs to be inserted into the enclosure with the nut threaded over the wires before soldering (I did the same thing recently).

As for no sound, that happens to me too. On the buffer, I hooked it up to test: no sound. Checked all the leads, no sound. I had forgotten to put the IC into the socket!

Woltz
14-05-2020, 01:24 PM
Looks good. You will need to desolder the DC jack, since it needs to be inserted into the enclosure with the nut threaded over the wires before soldering (I did the same thing recently).

As for no sound, that happens to me too. On the buffer, I hooked it up to test: no sound. Checked all the leads, no sound. I had forgotten to put the IC into the socket!Yeh I'm not bothered about desoldering the DC Jack. I already had to desolder the LED because I put it in backwards lol.

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Woltz
15-05-2020, 07:05 AM
Do you have a mini-board for the footswitch, or will you be direct wiring it?

I'm now thinking after seeing the wiring mocked up that I may get a mini-board. It would make things tidier. Just need to work out the wiring to retain the LED on the main board.

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jugglindan
15-05-2020, 08:16 AM
I'm now thinking after seeing the wiring mocked up that I may get a mini-board. It would make things tidier. Just need to work out the wiring to retain the LED on the main board.

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If the board is designed with the power LED on the board, they probably have a particular wiring arrangement in mind for the 3PDT. The way I wire my switches up means the board receives power whether the switch is on or off. The switch just controls whether the input goes to the board or direct to output (and it grounds the board output in the bypass position). That probably wouldn't work with your board, since the power LED would likely stay lit regardless of the bypass.

The Pedal Parts Australia 3PDT board has the LED and CLR on the mini board. It might work with your setup just by leaving those out. I have one in my compressor, so I could test if it powers down the main board in the bypass position (assuming that's what your circuit is expecting).

For myself, although I find wiring up the off-board stuff a bit boring, I don't mind too much if it's not perfectly tidy since I am not looking inside the box much anyway. If I was building pedals to sell I would probably put more care into making the box look neat.

Woltz
15-05-2020, 09:11 AM
I've ordered one from Pedal Parts.

Here is the schematic for the main board for the Aurora.

https://i.imgur.com/4FoYO9X.jpg

I can't find a schematic for the mini-board, I can only see the trace in the images and their wiring diagrams but I'm thinking that this might work.

https://i.imgur.com/KJK9aqD.jpg

Joe Garfield
15-05-2020, 10:35 AM
Is the purpose of the mini board to save a few wires? Just curious...

It looks like Aurora V2 has the mini board - maybe you can “borrow” the schematic?

jugglindan
15-05-2020, 10:54 AM
Woltz, I think your wiring will work. I didn't realise your main PCB had a switch input for connecting the LED cathode to ground in the on position. The left hand LED hole is for the cathode of a single colour LED, so it looks good to me. I got one of the bi-color LEDs with my orange squeezer kit, but I don't like the idea of an always on LED. I then have to remember which colour is on and which is off. Plus the brightness was really different between the two colours.

Woltz
15-05-2020, 11:24 AM
Is the purpose of the mini board to save a few wires? Just curious...

It looks like Aurora V2 has the mini board - maybe you can “borrow” the schematic?It won't reduce the number of wires (other than a couple of the jumper wires on the switch) but it will allow me to tidy things up by getting rid of the star grounding on the input jack. It's not a necessity, I just like all my wiring (both guitars and pedals) to be as tidy as possible because it makes it easier to find faults if there are any.

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Woltz
15-05-2020, 11:25 AM
Woltz, I think your wiring will work. I didn't realise your main PCB had a switch input for connecting the LED cathode to ground in the on position. The left hand LED hole is for the cathode of a single colour LED, so it looks good to me. I got one of the bi-color LEDs with my orange squeezer kit, but I don't like the idea of an always on LED. I then have to remember which colour is on and which is off. Plus the brightness was really different between the two colours.I'll try it when it gets here and report back haha.

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Joe Garfield
15-05-2020, 04:11 PM
It won't reduce the number of wires (other than a couple of the jumper wires on the switch) but it will allow me to tidy things up by getting rid of the star grounding on the input jack. It's not a necessity, I just like all my wiring (both guitars and pedals) to be as tidy as possible because it makes it easier to find faults if there are any.

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I think that star grounding is the wires I was talking about. I'm looking forward to seeing the change, and learning from you! :)

Is your pedal noisy at all, in any of the treble switch positions or anything?

jugglindan
15-05-2020, 05:15 PM
I don't use star grounds in any pedals. So long as you avoid a loop you should be OK. In recent stripboard builds I have followed this scheme (https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html) from Tag Board Effects. The ground follows one neat line, no loop. You can sort of see it here:
35120

Compared to the diagram, I don't wire the LED directly to the footswitch. I make a tiny board from stripboard and solder the CLR, LED, and wires to that. It's a bit hard to see in the photo since it's over the main board. I like this approach since it lets me position the LED anywhere in the enclosure.

Woltz
21-05-2020, 05:41 PM
So I'm still waiting on my enclosures. They were shipped a month ago from Tayda in Thailand and the tracking doesn't even show it landing in Australia yet. Contemplating ordering a couple of enclosures from PedalParts because they now have stock again.

On a more positive note the footswitch pcb has arrived so I will look to get that setup ready to go and test it out.

jugglindan
21-05-2020, 05:45 PM
Great. I need some more enclosures too. For my phaser I used one of the low-grade enclosures from Pedal Parts because that was all they had. In hindsight that was not the best choice for a polished metal finish.

Woltz
27-05-2020, 09:18 AM
Enclosures are finally here! I will look at drilling them on the weekend. Not sure about the graphics because it's so cold at the moment that spraying lacquer isn't ideal.

jugglindan
27-05-2020, 09:39 AM
Enclosures are finally here! I will look at drilling them on the weekend. Not sure about the graphics because it's so cold at the moment that spraying lacquer isn't ideal.

I am looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Have you tested the circuit itself yet?

And yeah, it's not a great time in Canberra for painting. I managed to get the neck for my tele done, but only by using a heater in the shed.

Woltz
27-05-2020, 09:41 AM
Not yet, I'll solder the switch onto the mini pcb on the weekend and test it out.

Woltz
30-05-2020, 06:34 PM
So I drilled the holes in the enclosure today after a trip to the big green shed to get the drill bit I needed. And I wasn't paying attention and forgot to put something soft down on my mdf drill press table and the result was this.

https://i.imgur.com/9JLdz0b.jpg

So I took that as a sign that this enclosure doesn't want finishing. So I went ahead and installed the electronics. After a couple of issues with everything fitting and some tweaking it's all nicely tucked in there.

https://i.imgur.com/RhxHmhw.jpg

Ready to test.

https://i.imgur.com/MNgZRZY.jpg

Now here's my comments after testing. With the Sustain knob at zero the pedal sounds alright. I can turn the Level knob all the way up without any issues. Once the Threshold gets above around the 2 o'clock position the noise starts creeping in.

The attack switch with my current guitars for me is virtually useless. It functions without any problems but the setting with the most treble is by far the nicest and I don't anticipate that I'd ever use the other two options. If I was building it again I'd get rid of the switch altogether and just run it with the cap value that I like.

jugglindan
30-05-2020, 07:58 PM
I have done that to the finish on a pedal as well. I always drill before painting now.

Noise when raising the sustain knob (lowering the signal level threshold required for the compressor to act on a signal) is expected. Drop the threshold too far and you start amplifying the noise.

Lot's of my builds have switches and other mods that I rarely use. But they still let me find the options I like, as you have done. On my stripboard builds I have taken to socketing critical components instead.

Is it officially finished now? I know it's harder to answer the "how does it sound?" question with a compressor, so I will ask a different question? Do you like it? Or too early to tell?

DC

Woltz
30-05-2020, 08:07 PM
Given that I'm hardly much of a guitar player haha yes I like it. I'm going to be very curious to plug the Rick build into it when I finish that because that was really what I built the pedal for.

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Simon Barden
30-05-2020, 09:35 PM
Can't you change the other cap values to be more akin to the one you like?

And compressors will amplify any noise upstream of it once you start lowering the threshold and the electronics auto-adding make-up gain. It's just the way compressors work.

Woltz
31-05-2020, 05:30 AM
Can't you change the other cap values to be more akin to the one you like?



Yep that's exactly what I will probably do at some stage.

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