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Thread: Bridges

  1. #1
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Bridges

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    Nice architecture but not the sort of hardware I had in mind....

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    Traditional ones....

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    Fancy ones......

    So many to choose from.......

    Which are the ones most likely in need of an upgrade or replacement?

    Sometimes we need to ponder the form over function concept as not all bridges have good mechanical design elements yet they may look super cool or become a must have thing to achieve that mock-up or retro look.

    Together with Nut & Tuners the Bridge is next most vital piece of hardware that can make playing and tuning your guitar a pleasure or a source of frustration due to poor design or adjustment limitations.

    The humble G style Tune-O-Matic has been around forever and I have never swapped one out or upgraded on any kit or store bought guitar. Usually there is just enough fore & aft travel to do string intonation but sometimes flipping the direction a saddle faces can provide a few extra mm's to play with. Biggest limitation is everything being held rigid in one plane where the only vertical adjustment is from outer posts at either side.

    Tremolo equipped bridges come in many shapes and sizes. Last time I used a tremolo was on my Japanese Strat copy back in the late 70's so not even going to try and offer any meaningful dialogue on these detuning devices.

    A lot of kit builders start out on a very simple kit such as Telecaster where there are only a couple of wires to solder up and it all looks fairly easy to complete. That is until you begin to locate proper bridge position and eventually start on the intonation. My 3rd build was a Tele and proved to be the most challenging to properly setup and intonate and shall do a separate review on the 3rd bridge used that solved all my problems.

    Shouldn't forget Bass bridges as there are some good ones plus some rather dreadful ones too and will also do a couple of specific aftermarket parts reviews. Surprisingly the standard kit MM Style as found on MMB4 and RC4 is quite good but the F style plus standard kit 5 string F styles are not too good. Biggest issues I found were rather large diameter barrel shaped saddles that tended to sit too high making a low action difficult to achieve. On standard 4 string F style they are quite short on fore & aft travel due to small base plate foot print which makes placement extremely important in order to achieve good intonation. Plenty of expensive upgrades available and Badass still has a very good reputation for something that has been around for so long.

    The price of some upgrade bridges is staggering and can easily set you back more than kit price alone. Best to do lots of homework before shelling out coin on something that may not do the intended job.

    Hoping some other builders and forum members add to what has been started here.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  2. #2
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    I really like changing out the knife edge Gibson style bridge for the roller ones which are available very cheaply on eBay
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Locking-...8AAOSwC6haqc6K

  3. #3
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyxlh View Post
    I really like changing out the knife edge Gibson style bridge for the roller ones which are available very cheaply on eBay
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Locking-...8AAOSwC6haqc6K
    Are they the same size posts and positioning or is dowel & re-drilling required?
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  4. #4
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    Are they the same size posts and positioning or is dowel & re-drilling required?
    The posts are smaller, but you can use the kit posts and use the threaded inserts from the bridge which have the same thread.
    Here's a pic of it on my SG kit. I think it's a huge upgrade. The posts holes themselves have grub screws to locate on the pin, and gives some additional back and forward adjustment.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    I've replaced the bridges on a couple of basses with higher mass ebay bridges. Biggest downside is that at their lowest, they are still higher than the standard bridges. This has led to needing to shim the necks on two basses so far.

  6. #6
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Yeah, know how you feel Brendan as the online measurements don't always cover every relevant bit and have also found this out the hard way. Hopefully they didn't cost too much?

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  7. #7
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    About $20@ and have used them all - just need to be aware that you may need to do some extra work on the kit to get the action right.

  8. #8
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    I bought a cheap TOM style roller bridge of eBay. Won’t do that again. The rollers jammed pretty much immediately. If you are going to upgrade a bridge you may as well pay the bucks get something that you know isn’t made of mystery metal.....
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  9. #9
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    Yup Fretty, the ebay roller bridges look the same as the better quality ones until you have it apart and find the saddles are either wedged in tight or overly sloppy. I think I spent the best part of a morning with small files and a dremel making 1 good one out of 2 on my last build. Also the post spacing on them can vary enough to make it an issue. You can be lucky, I have bought a couple which were fine, I guess there are a few companies out there making them.
    Used Schaller bridges and tail pieces on a few and give them a thumbs up, bit pricier but nicely made.
    I've had good experience with Wilkinson strat trems, the block is actually steel rather than chitanium and a definite step up.
    I've used Bigsby's, licensed Bigsby and chinese bigsby and don't see any difference to speak of. Again, if you want to spend the $ ...Duesenburg, the Les Trem is the best trem system I've used bar none.
    Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
    Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
    Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
    Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
    Build 15 PBG-2-
    Build 14 FTD-1
    Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
    Build 12 DM-1S
    Build 11 MKA-2 -
    Build 10 Basic strat
    Build 9 JM Kustom
    Build 8 FV-1G
    Build 7 ES-2V
    Build 6- Community prototype
    Build 5 LP-1LQ
    Build 4 ES-5V
    Build 3 JR-1
    Build 2 GD-1
    Build 1 TLA-1

  10. #10
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I'm a big user of Tonepros bridges and tailpeces. I believe they are made for TP by Gotoh. I like the grub screw locking mechanism that helps stop them moving around. I do try and get all my posts as tightly fitting as possible using PTFE/plumbers tape or copper shielding tape (though that can be a very tight fit at times). More rigidity = something less to move and put strings out of tune.

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