You could search the forum - I have seen others remove posts successfully. Or just ask for advice on post removal and some of the others will provide solutions.
The bridge may not pivot properly as is. You could press on and see how you go as is but removal and reseat might be better.
Been thinking about removing the anchors.
Do an internet search on removing tune-o-matic bushings. The anchors are similar to those on a Les Paul. You should get some useful ideas.
I will do that. I know Simon has a few good suggestions here as well.
I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers!
The other post-removing tips (for Tune-O-Matics) don't apply here as the post holes go all the way through the body and into the trem cavity. Knocking them out from the rear is about the only way to do it.
You can see the post holes appearing at the edges of the trem cavity, here.
I wouldn't like to use the small amount of wood remaining to press against using the normal insert-removing method. Very likely to split the wood.
So either knock them out gently from the back, or press them in fully as they are. I'm pretty sure that the post holes are the same diameter all the way down. As long as the internal screw thread runs all the way through the insert then there really is only the slight cosmetic issue. If the screw thread is only for the finned part of the insert, then yes, they certainly will need removing.
No worries Simon,Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I put the posts in upside down so they have to come out anyway!
I'm going to try using a nail punch that i have and gently tap from the bottom where you highlighted in red on the picture. If i see they are coming out slowly i will continue with removal. If not i will push them all the way in and hope that I don't have issues with the bridge.
Last edited by Marc T; 18-09-2018 at 11:02 PM.
Hi Marc, you don't need to be able to bottom out a bolt to remove them, just needs to be thought about differently.
Here's a doodle I did for another member. Get a bolt with the same thread as the post receiver and a nut, a flat bit of wood with a hole through it, some blocks and probably something to protect the body. Arrange like the diagram with the bolt screwed into the receiver. Holding the the bolt still with a spanner and 'tighten' the nut. It will push down on the wood/blocks and exert a pulling force on the post receiver. Just be sure to spread the load and put a rag or something on the body to avoid dinging it.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Thanks Sonic, I knew I saw that somewhere.Hi Marc, you don't need to be able to bottom out a bolt to remove them, just needs to be thought about differently.
Here's a doodle I did for another member. Get a bolt with the same thread as the post receiver and a nut, a flat bit of wood with a hole through it, some blocks and probably something to protect the body. Arrange like the diagram with the bolt screwed into the receiver. Holding the the bolt still with a spanner and 'tighten' the nut. It will push down on the wood/blocks and exert a pulling force on the post receiver. Just be sure to spread the load and put a rag or something on the body to avoid dinging it.
This was another that I found on the forum
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...=Cherry+pipper
Oh that's pretty neat - same basic principle.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Here is the easiest way to remove them and I know it works as I had to do it when I replaced a set of inserts.
Take the screw that comes with the inserts, screw it in and put a piece of cardboard or wood or both to protect the top surface. You can use a claw hammer or a small wrecking bar and lever the insert out but once you lift it a small distance I have found you can pull it out with your fingers. If your worried about the tool damaging your screw either get another screw with a hex or round head or use a washer or 2 that just fits over the thread. The good thing is you can adjust the head height so you pull straight up but just take it in little bits at a time. The other way is to screw the head up a little and use the very tip of some needle nose pliers to grab just under the head and use a piece of wood as the fulcrum in the middle of the pliers and push down on the handles and it will pull out easy. To get the right height with both of these ways you may have to use various thicknesses of wood or some thin packers. When you turn it around and press back in just rotate it until you feel it engage in the grooves you have already cut so to keep the insert tight rather than cut another set of tracks.
Builds :
# 1 - Non PBG ES-335
# 2 - Non PBG Tele Thin line
# 3 - Non PBG LP
# 4 - Non PBG SG
# 5 - RC-1
# 6 - TL-1
# 7 - ST-1 Custom
# 8 - SGB-30 + Non PBG SG
# 9 - Custom JRM-1DC 12 String
#10 - Custom ST-1 with P90's
#11 - Custom TL-1 with 27" Bari Neck
#12 - Custom JZ-6 Jazzmaster
#13 - AG-1 Factory Second
#14 - Custom JZ-6 Bass vi
#15 - EX-1R Factory Second
#16 - AGM-1
#17 - EXA-7
Hi guys,
last night I tried to gently tap them out from the bottom with a nail punch and it barely moved and i could see it was damaging the posts so i stopped. I'm going to examine all the info you shared tonight when i get home from work. I really appreciate all the time you are all taking to help me!!
I wonder how much it costs to send a few pints of beer from Montreal to Australia ; ) I assume that's where you live.
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