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Thread: Witto's 2nd build.. The Mossie is here !

  1. #1
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    Witto's 2nd build.. The Mossie is here !

    Fairly happy with the RC-1 even though it's still not quite complete yet.
    Yahoo, and the Mossie has arrived. I actualy ordered this one 1st, and as it was going to be a bit of a wait for it to arrive, and also a strange hankering for a semi-accoustic, I decided to try the RC-1 as a practice run.

    Going to keep the Mossie build as simple as possible. Stoked that my better half has offered to help with the painting !

    Cheers folks !

  2. #2
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    Even though the Ricky is still a couple of steps off completion, I've made a start on the mozzie. Like those gone before, I've reshaped the head and looked closely at the screw hole spacing for the neck, as this seems to be a problem spot.

    Like other posts, I see the holes don't line up with the backing plate very well. I can live with that. But I have a real concern about the backing plate being wider than the body!!

    It's a little hard to see in the photo but the plate overhangs the sides of the body.

    Just wondering if anyone else has seen and overcome this?

    Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
    TL-1 (just arrived)
    IB-1S
    MK-2
    RC-1

  3. #3
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I'd ditch the backing plate and just use the metal neck plate. It's what Fender and almost all other bolt-on neck manufacturers do. You want the neck held hard to the body, and placing a piece of soft plastic/rubber in between the plate and the body can only add some compliance to the joint, which isn't really what you want.

    Plus, you really don't want it going over the side of the heel.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Simon.
    I'm finding that even the plate on it's own, is just slightly wider than the heel. The heel is slightly rounded on those edges.

    If I sand down beyond the rounded edge, making the corners square, then there might be a less visible gap. Additionally I can file the edges of the plate slightly.. That might help as well..

    It sounds a bit drastic, but it's only going to need half a mm or so, I think.
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I'd ditch the backing plate and just use the metal neck plate. It's what Fender and almost all other bolt-on neck manufacturers do. You want the neck held hard to the body, and placing a piece of soft plastic/rubber in between the plate and the body can only add some compliance to the joint, which isn't really what you want.

    Plus, you really don't want it going over the side of the heel.
    Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
    TL-1 (just arrived)
    IB-1S
    MK-2
    RC-1

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Member trv's Avatar
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    I really like your headstock design!
    Build #1 Spalted Maple 'Halcyon' LP-1SS GOTM May 2018

  7. #7
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    Hi Simon, been away from the forum for a while. Neck fit is really loose!!. I'm going to have to make some shims to firm it up. Lots of side to side movement...
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    What's the neck fit like?
    Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
    TL-1 (just arrived)
    IB-1S
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    RC-1

  8. #8
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    Thanks Try. It's a bit shorter and fatter than the real thing, but the vibe is there. ;-)
    Quote Originally Posted by trv View Post
    I really like your headstock design!
    Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
    TL-1 (just arrived)
    IB-1S
    MK-2
    RC-1

  9. #9
    Nice to see another Mossie on the go, I haven't checked the back plate alignment on mine yet, thanks for pointing out a possible minor issue.

  10. #10
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    Haven't put any time into this for ages but saw mosriteslab was finding all the same head scratching issues as me.

    I too went down the moslike roller bridge path and will opt to dowel the factory holes and redrill. I have to anyway because the holes are too big even for the factory supplied ToM bridge.

    Originally I was going to go with a wraparound.

    My neck fit is really loose. I've just this arvo made some shims to glue into place tomorrow.

    I've decided to fully assemble the beast and make it playable before finishing the body work. I don't want to risk having to redo the finnish if I need to move something. Bridge holes, stop holes. Neck to body holes etc.

    I'll be in a better position to grapple with nut slots then too.

    There's quite a lot to this build, surprisingly.

    Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
    TL-1 (just arrived)
    IB-1S
    MK-2
    RC-1

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