Wipe on poly?

[DarkMark]

Hi folk, I know I have a decal which isn’t compatible with tru oil. I’ve seen some people use wipe on poly on headstock faces (which I’m guessing I could do), but has anyone used a wipe on poly over the entire guitar? Would this work? I’m planning on a feast Watson hand stained burst. Appreciate people’s opinions, thanks.

[wazkelly]

Hi mate, I have used Tru Oil over the top over water slide decals done in ink jet with no dramas? Just need to spray on a coat or 2 of clear acrylic (White Knight or similar) to seal in the ink jet image on the transfer paper.

Haven't done a wipe on poly and there are plenty of examples on the forum. From memory it can drag the stain around when applying the 1st coat. Maybe brushing 1st coat may prevent that? No doubt others who have used wipe on poly will drop by and share their experiences.

[DarkMark]

Hi Waz, thanks for the quick reply. You recently gave me your good method for brush application in my build diary. My Rothko and frost decal does state it can’t be used with tru oil, but I’m sure if the decal is coated tru oil is back in contention. By the way, I brought Tung Oil thinking it was the same product as Tru Oil. Appears to be similar, but different. Is Tung Oil a suitable substitute for Tru Oil?

[wazkelly]

Not sure on Tung Oil. Believe it can do a similar job.

Getting back to the Rothko & Frost decals, suggest giving them a light acrylic spray from on top that way it helps to seal in what has been created. Be careful not to layer things up too much as that does introduce a noticeable edge under the top coats.

[DarkMark]

Thanks again, I have found your suggested product and will follow your method.
Unless anyone tells me otherwise I’m thinking of buying the Tru Oil come time to clear coat. Perhaps I can find another project for the Tung Oil.

[wazkelly]

If unopened maybe you could take it back and get a refund?

[DarkMark]

Too late! I have already opened it and given my plywood burst a couple of coats using your brush on method...which appears to be working so far. I get the impression from dubious sources on the internet that Tru Oil dries to a harder finish, but if testing on my plywood burst is a failure than I have a backup.

[Marcel]

My best results came when I applied the (laser printed) decal just after the (Minwax) wipe on poly goes 'off', or just after it becomes touch dry. The tackyness of the poly helps to adhere the decal and the edges can slightly sink into the yet to harden poly underneath. When fully dry about 12 to 24hrs later the first coat of poly over the decal should be moderately wet so as to safely seal it in, with the actual application using as few wipe strokes as possible. Coats after that can be applied in the normal way.

The alternative is to spray only the headstock front using a rattle can of poly. Much the same steps with far less chance of 'destroying' the decal. And you also then have the option of Gloss, Satin or Matt as an overall finish on the headstock (which then if desired could be different to the body finish).

If it all goes horribly wrong then sanding all of the mistake off and trying again is a disheartening but very viable option...

[DarkMark]

Interesting idea Marcel, thanks.

[Simon Barden]

Poly is a very hard finish when fully cured (give it around 30 days). So far I'm finding that Tru-Oil seems quite soft by comparison after a week's drying with no additional coats, though it too may harden well over time.