First built. It may take a while...

[wazkelly]

Nice bit of timber.

Unfortunately end grain still needs a bit more sanding to get rid of all the factory machine marks.

Edit: Just saw the shots with neck fitted.....looks quite typical and don't be alarmed as the neck is not supposed to be pushed all the way in so that the 'tongue' sits flush up against rear of neck pocket. Can't comment about neck break angle as haven't built one of these yet and reckon a lot may have to do with the crap kit supplied MM style bridge which has the saddle screws angled downwards onto very large diameter saddle. Not sure a Ric style replacement will solve much as they need a bit routed out to make them fit flush.

Also thought that truss rod was only adjustable from headstock end?

[Booooooom]

Also thought that truss rod was only adjustable from headstock end?

Yes, its only adjustable from the headstock end but currently can slide in and out... can feel it 'bite' when turning an allen key which I presume is what holds it in place? Not fitted a truss rod before, only adjusted them from whichever end they protrude.

back to the sanding...

[Booooooom]

Hi and welcome. There are a few tricky bits associated with the RCA-4 kit, especially if you plan to upgrade the bridge for a Ric style one. But we're here to help, so post pics as you go, and ask away. Hope you enjoy the build, it is rather addictive.

Hi Simon
Seriously considering upgrading the bridge with one of these...
https://www.thomann.de/gb/allparts_b...yle_bridge.htm
What are the associated tricky bits?
Thanks
Dave

[Booooooom]

Those RC kits can test you as Simon says, although my one is a lot of fun!
The main issue is the neck angle, it can be too flat, so the bridge doesn't have enough adjustment to take the action low enough to get it correct.

H Andy
How did you adjust/set the neck in position?
Thanks
Dave

[Simon Barden]

The Allparts replacement bridge pictures don't show you the underside of the bridge, which isn't flat but has a significant protrusion to it which requires routing out a cavity on the top for the bridge to sit in.

The main part of the truss rod is anchored at the other end of the neck, so it shouldn't be able to move at all. If the whole truss rod is moving, then that's not right. However it's more likely that the nut on the end of the truss rod is loose, and will need winding on and tightening until it starts to bite and make changes to the curve of the neck. So turn it clockwise (looking down the neck from the trussrod nut end) until you can detect the neck bow changing as you turn the truss rod nut. Use a long straight edge. I'd set the neck up so it's straight/flat to start with, as string tension will then put some concave bow in the neck when you get to that stage.

With the neck clamped in place and the neck set flat, a long straight edge lying on top of the neck will show you where the neck angle will end up with respect to the bridge height. As the strings will sit above the neck, the bridge saddles will end up about 2mm-3mm above this line, so if the tops of the saddles can be adjusted so sit around that distance from the bottom of the straight edge without being right on the bridge plate or ridiculously high, then the neck angle is fine.

[Booooooom]

Thanks for the info Simon. I’ve got the Ricky style bridge and routed a pocket. All seems to fit/alight ok so back to the sanding...

I’m planning on a stained finish, does the binding stain? Should I mask off the binding or scrape back afterwards?

[Wayne.Mumford]

Hi Dave, it’s best to mask up the binding as it sometimes has small cracks or defects in it. If the stain gets in those cracks it’s very hard to get out. Even when you mask up the binding,sometimes a small amount of stain can penetrate the edge of the tape,but that is easy to scrape off with a sharp blade.
Wayno.

[Booooooom]

Thanks Wayne, masking the top edge looks like it'll be fun!

[FrankenWashie]

You can also polish the binding with fine grade paper or steel wool to make it harder for the stain to adhere to the binding. It won't prevent the stain from penetrating any cracks or fissures in the binding surface but it should help. If you do both it may assist keeping the binding cleaner.

[Booooooom]

Bridge pocket routed... all seems to line up 😊