ES5V first build

[DarkMark]

Thanks everyone, will check out the local auto refinishing stores today Andyxlh. Previously had a go at hand staining a burst and was happy enough with the result.
Simon, is there a suggested method with the tru oil and brush? Brush with the grain? Brush from a central point directly to the edge (my money is on this approach)? Brush in a expanding spiral pattern moving outwards from the light centre to the darker edge? Forgive my ignorance but rest ashored I’ll test on the scrap wood first.
I’ve seen the great results with the air brush but I’m determined to have a go by hand.

[trv]

Your test looks good!

[Simon Barden]

I wouldn't over think the tru-oil brushing. A brush is less likely to drag tru-oil with it than a cloth. Or else dab it on in spots so that there's no lateral movement at all. I just know that a few people have achieved a decent stain burst, only to have it spoiled when they applied Tru-Oil. The oil in the Tru-Oil will take up some of the stain the moment it's applied. So if you then wipe that oil to a different location, it's going to take that stain with it. So you just want to apply the TO so it doesn't get moved around.

If you do an all-stained burst, I'd brush from the centre outwards, so creating a star-like pattern of brush strokes so that you are going from a light to a dark stain. You just need to get enough layers of Tru-Oil on without moving the stain around. Which is why I suggest on the first application leaving some gaps between each brush stroke, so that you don't pick up TO that has been sitting on the surface for some time and is loaded with stain. Of course in the all-light centre and all-dark edge areas it doesn't matter and you can rub the TO in with abandon where it's all the same colour. It's those transition areas that really count.

But it all depends on being able to create a good stained burst to start with. I do think you will get a better burst if the burst is sprayed.

[wazkelly]

Good advice from Simon.

From build #2 through to current # 6 I have brushed on initial 2 coats of Tru Oil before switching to rag application method.

It is quite simple, just pour a small amount in small container, load the brush up with plenty and lightly paint the surface with a 1" to no bigger than 2" brush, in same manner as you would on a door, wall, or any other surface. You will notice on first coat application that the timber is very thirsty and need to resist going back over where you have just applied finish too many times as it can end up disturbing the stain.

Give it least 24 hours and then brush the 2nd coat on which shouldn't need as much delicate care due to a proper thick 1st coat also acting as the sealer.

Cheers, Waz

[DarkMark]

I know an air brush will give a great result in good hands,but I don’t have access to one and I don’t wish to purchase one. Besides, I have grown to like the hand rubbed result. I’ll give it a go and if I fail...I fail. Bit scared about tru oil over the top, I’ll keep thinking about it and see what other options people are using.

[DarkMark]

Thanks Waz, I’ll definitely have a test run on the practice bursts first.
By the way, spent half the afternoon driving around the local auto refinishing stores to find no one has the 6mm tape I’m after to mask the binding. Spent some time cutting my green painters tape to fit before giving the body a sand. Remind me never to try that again. 6mm tape ordered online.

[wazkelly]

On your practice runs also try applying a diluted 50:50 turps to Tru Oil mix whish ends up a bit more watery and you may find easier to apply.

What is the stain, water or oil based?

[DarkMark]

Feast Watson prooftint ‘traditional spirit based interior stain’. Contains >60% diacetone alcohol, 1-10% trivalent organic chromates. Sounds lovely.

[wazkelly]

Very much oil based by the sound of that so go easy on any turps diluted coats for a while.

[DarkMark]

Yes Waz, adding solvents to initial coats sounds risky to me. I’ll take your and Simon advice onboard.