ES5V first build

[DarkMark]

Thanks FrankenWashie, I think it is beer o’clock. I’m reminded of your earlier post in my diary relating to fret work.
Thanks trv, I’m enjoying your build diary.

[Simon Barden]

Looking good.

I always run a small offcut of top E string along each fret, just to check it glides over the fret and there are no transverse scratches left. Even tiny scratches can cause a string to catch when bending and make it feel rough, and you can feel the E string pulling. If it doesn't feel 'scratchy', then you're fine. Easier to check and fix now (if necessary), than when you've just strung it up with new strings.

[DarkMark]

Thanks Simon, I’ll give that a go. Once I took the green tape off I found the occasional fret with the slightest amount of overhang, fingers can feel it. I’ll have a think how to address that issue without causing damage to the fret board.

[Simon Barden]

I normally tape either side of the fret and underneath the fret end on the neck, so all the wood is covered, then either use a needle file (if really rough) or 240 grit paper if just a little jagged, and sand parallel to the board but at at a 45° angle to the fret ends. It's often the very bottom corners of the frets that you can feel.

If the frets are very proud, then use a sanding block and sand initially at 90° all along the fret ends until they are level with the board, and then at 45° all along the fret ends so they are no longer proud, then you'll probably need to do the parallel 45° to the fret sanding until the ends don't feel sharp. Then it's up through the grades on the fret ends until they're back to smooth and polished.

[DarkMark]

I went with the sanding method Simon, because;
1) I have it, and
2) I wanted to give the fret board surface and edge a light sand while I was at it.
I think I might be being a little pedantic, but the edge does feel somewhat better now.

[DarkMark]

I guess sanding is next, I’ll be staining so I believe I shouldn’t go any higher than about 240 grit for the body, but unsure about the neck. The manual says to cover the binding (I don’t have the 3mm tape, haven’t seen it anywhere when I’ve looked) May I receive some advice please.

[DarkMark]

...and while I’m asking for advice,
I’ll be using Feast and Watson stain to do a burst, but unsure what I should do from there to clear coat it. Tru Oil seems very popular. I’ve seen people suggest stain can dissolve in it a little bit which makes me think I don’t want to apply it directly to a burst design. I’ve also seen Simon’s advice on adding two coats of sanding sealer before applying Tru Oil. Any thoughts or alternative suggestions? Much appreciated.

[Andyxlh]

The blue tape you will buy from the auto refinishers or smash repairers

[Simon Barden]

Bursting is very hard to do well with stain. It's very hard to blend two colours, so practice on scrap wood first. You really need to get the lighter and the darker colours on wet at the same time so they can blend in the middle where they meet. Otherwise you can try airbrushing the darker stain on.

Tru-Oil will certainly re-absorb some stain, so if you use that on a stained burst, I'd suggest using a brush for the first few coats, brush from the centre to the outside of the guitar so you don't bring dark tinted TO into the middle. I'd even leave gaps between TO brush stroked for the first couple of coats and fill them in with the second coat, again using a brush. Brush once each time, don't go back and forth which will muddy the finish. Once you get a few TO coats on, you can stop worrying about the stain bleeding.

You can of course, spray paint over a stained base, then use Tru-Oil on top. Easier to get a good burst that way.

This is the sort of tape to use for the binding, 3M 471 tape. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fine-Vinyl-.../dp/B00CUPL8BI
It comes in 3mm and 6mm widths. Other makes are available.

[trv]

You can of course, spray paint over a stained base, then use Tru-Oil on top. Easier to get a good burst that way.

This approach worked for me, using an air brush not spray paint though. To me it seemed like an easier way to get an even burst than trying to blend with stain.

As for tape, I just used 1" painter's tape for everything (and lots of it). It's easy to cut to size and if you get the delicate surface kind it shouldn't leave any adhesive residue behind when you remove it.