ESB-4 - first build - ultimate newbie

[fender3x]

Here's something I built to do the drilling...

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5908

You want to put some low tack tape over where you drill. I did it on mine and if you are careful it's not a problem.

I don't think the glue will help much mostly because it generally won't stick to the metal. If it does and you get a pull out...oh my. Personally I wouldn't risk it. (Almost) all ESB-4 builders who have tried the stock 3-point bridge have had problems. If I am wrong about that I am sure someone will correct me.. but the physics is just not on our side ;-)

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[Roger79]

Hi Fender3x,

Damn, I think you're right.. even if I'm a lazy person, and a real beginner with manual jobs, I have to do something !

My two first plans were :
1. Buy longer and better inserts and put them correctly (as Simon suggested)
2. Scratch the actual inserts and use multi materials ultra strong glue (of the dead)

But now, I probably will have to build a driller holder and drill and find ferrules and cry a lot..
I'm less happy than before with this kit

Again, thank you very much for your great advices.. I will listen to them..

See ya !

[Roger79]

Ok folks I think I found some good ferrules for my (future drilled) bass :

4 like this on the top :
http://www.luthimate.fr/fr/divers/15...es-chrome.html

4 like this on the bottom :
https://www.guitarnblues.com/pieces-...mm-chrome.html

Carreful it's in french huhu
Just need to know if diameter is the same..

What do you think ?
Cheers !

[Roger79]

It's me again !

I talked to a professional, and he told me to put the longest ferrule on the back, so the string's length won't be too long : the bass isn't a short scale, I must be careful about this !

I will order 4 like this (top) : http://www.luthimate.fr/fr/divers/26...=B28&results=3

And 4 like this (back) : http://www.luthimate.fr/fr/recherche...submit_search=

Same diameter (and same seller !).

I will put some tape on both side, I hope the drill won't blow up the wood when it goes out.. I'll start next week, I'll keep you in touch !

[Simon Barden]

I'm sorry, but that was bad advice you were given. You'll need to fit them the other way around. The 'long' ferrules are only sized for a bass string, not the ball end. So if you fit those on the back, the ball ends will stick out of the body rather than fit in the large recess of the 'short' ferrules, which means that the total string length would be even longer than using the 'short' ferrules on the back. You'd also have the ball ends exposed witch is going to be rather uncomfortable for you.

Don't panic though. The bass has a 2+2 headstock design, not a 4 in-line headstock. Bass strings have a lot of extra length on them as they have to reach the last tuner on a 4-in line headstock. You will be adding some extra length, but in terms of overall length, you should be fine as the longest run on your bass will only have to reach the A and D tuner positions.

Bass strings are suitable for 34" and 35" scale lengths, and the typical wound length is normally between 36.5" and 37.5", then as long as the overall length of the run for the wound part of the bass string is less than 36.6" (so you've got at least 2"/5cm extra) then you should be OK. I have a Lakland P-bass with rear stringing and I don't have any string length issues. The kit comes with a set of cheap strings, so why not use them to see what extra length you have spare on the string with the end of the wound part just past the nut.

You can always countersink the rear ferrules into the body by 1 - 2 cm or so, to give you a bit of extra length. Drill the 4 string holes all the way through the body, then drill out those holes to the diameter of of the smaller part of the ferrule to maybe 2.5cm (or whatever you feel you need) deep. Then drill out those holes with a drill that's the same diameter as the ferrule lip by 2.5cm - the overall depth of the ferrule, then push the ferrules into the holes. Don't drill the holes so deep that you can't fit the top ferrules into the body, so measure the body depth first, and then compare it with the depths of the two sets of ferrules.

[wazkelly]

Hi Roger, just caught up with this thread.

CAUTION - I would not recommend using steel wool to apply any Tru Oil coats as you risk small particles of steel breaking off and becoming embedded in that layer of finish. End result looks bad and will require a lot of wet sanding to fix.

Best method for applying Tru Oil is with a small square of cloth. An old T-shirt cut up into 50 mm x 50 mm squares seems to work best or if feeling brave you could use 1200 or 1500 grit wet & dry sandpaper to wet sand the Tru Oil on in a similar way you would have done with steel wool.

With all the curves on that shaped body, and made even more difficult once the neck has been glued in, rag method for applying Tru Oil will be much easier to do.

Cheers, Waz

[fender3x]

I'm less happy than before with this kit

Hang in there. What the kit lacks in ease it makes up for in uniqueness. It was my first build too. It took a while, it still has some cosmetic flaws, but I like it better all the time. You can get it to play well and sound good, and you won't find another on like it.

Most semi-hollow basses are short scale, and most don't have a center block. This one is long and solid in the middle. That makes it hard to use a trapeze because most are too long. It's hard to use a stop tailpiece because most are too wide for the center block. To get the scale length right a three point bridge is in the worst place for pull out. So you have to get a little creative.

The reward will be a totally unique instrument. It will be like nothing anyone else has ever made.


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[Roger79]

Thank you guys for your advices and cheering up !

@ Wazkelly : to be honest, my plan was only to use steel wool between each layers (not using wool as a sponge !). I will apply with an old t-shirt, then sand a little (with paper).

@ Simon : I think I wasn't clear (in english !), sorry about that.. what I'm about to start is :
1 : drill 4 small holes (Diameter 6)
2 : enlarge with diameter 10 on top and on the bottom
3 : insert ferrules as diagram below:



Now I'm working on something to hold properly the bass (it's curved !) so it won't move when i'll drill.

See you

[Roger79]

Previously in "le build"

"
- I'm sure glue will be enough
- You should drill
- But, you know, I'm not good at..
- You will drill
- But..
- YOU WILL DRILL
- I will drill
"


So !
To be honest, to drill a 300€ body was a huge stressful experience.. And, of course, everything isn't perfect but I don't mind : I'm more interested by the sound than the look

First, I dug (dig ?) a piece of wood to make it fit on the back of the curved body, to avoid the wood to crack when the driller will go thru :


Then I drilled, first with a small diameter (biggest string). Somehow the body moved, so the holes aren't perfectly aligned.. but the bigger ones will fix it (maybe !) :


And so, small holes were visible on the other side.
Now, time to drill with the ferrule's diameter (10).
Unfortunately, it destroyed some wood around the holes.. I'll sand this later.



Then, to avoid strings to be cut by the new sharp angle, I sanded a little the bridge, where strings will go down thru the body.

Now, I'm waiting, again, my tru oil ! It only come from UK but it's almost as long as from Australia

See you !
\o/

[fender3x]

Doesn't look bad. The lip on the ferrul should cover.

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