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Thread: DIY Instrument Lead Mini-Tutorial

  1. #31
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Balanced/unbalanced cables Pt 2

    A microphone output, once you rise above the cheap 'toy' plastic types and ignoring valve mics, will (these days) normally have a 3-pin XLR connector providing a balanced output signal with a differential output on pins 2 and 3, with pin 1 used for the shield connection. It will feed into a microphone preamp (that may be built into a mixing desk, digital audio interface or a stand-alone mic preamp etc.) that feeds the signals into a differential amplifier.

    The mic output signals that have opposite polarity and amplitude to each other. If you fed those signals into a summing amplifier, they would cancel out and you'd hear nothing as a result. That's why they are fed into a differential amplifier, which outputs the difference in the signals, so you get a signal that has twice the amplitude of a single signal. The benefit of this is that any noise picked up by both signal cores won't have any reversed polarity to it, so when it hits the differential amplifier, the noise signals (theoretically) cancel out, and the signal comes out noise free.

    Obviously the two signal cores can't occupy the exact same space, so there will be some difference in the noise signals each cable picks up. The nearer the cable is to a source of noise, the greater the difference in the electromagnetic noise field experienced by each core. You only get perfect noise cancellation if the noise levels are exactly the same phase and amplitude, so you can still get some noise in the signal, but at a very much lower amplitude than otherwise.

    To increase the ability of the cable to reject noise, the two signal cores are twisted together (the tighter the twist the better), so that there's a better chance of both cables picking up the same amount of noise i.e. with parallel cables, one core is always likely to be nearer the noise source than the other, and so the noise amplitude on each cable is always going to be slightly different. Twisting the signal cores averages out the distance of each cable from a noise source, so it's only when the cable is very near to the noise source that they won't pick up the same amount of noise.

    Think of the noise signal as ripples spreading out from the point a stone was dropped in the middle of a lake. Near the noise source/stone impact point itself, you've got very small radius circular waves that are quickly expanding into larger radius waves. If you floated a straight piece of wood in the water on a line perpendicular to the circle radius, the centre of the ripple would noticeably hit one part of the wood first then spread out and hit the rest. But move away 100m and the height of the ripples is now much less and the radius of the ripple waves is now so great that it appears almost flat. The same piece of wood set perpendicular to the radius will now experience the ripple hitting all the wood at almost the same time.

    Replace the wood with our twisted pair, and the stone for a noise source. Very near the noise, even though the cable is twisted, one core will be that bit nearer and pick up the noise before the other core does, so there will be a very small amplitude and phase difference in the noise signals picked up.

    To increase the noise resistance further, an overall braid shield is added to the cable, which captures a lot of the noise signal and takes it to ground. The better quality cables have a lot more wires/copper in the shield than cheap cables (as copper costs a lot these days). Also the tighter the twist in the signal cables, the more copper you need per unit length of cable. So there's a reason why some cables cost a lot more than others.

    Cables for installation that aren't planned to be moved at all after installation will typically have a couple of wraps of aluminised mylar foil sheath with a drain wire around the signal cores instead of a copper braid. This provides more comprehensive protection as there are none of the gaps in the shield that a braid gives you (which let in very short wavelength noise). However, these cables are less flexible than braided shield cables and moving them can cause audible noise as the layers of foil move across each other and cause slight capacitance changes and some static to be produced.

    For really noisy environments there's 'star quad' cable, which has two twisted pairs that are also twisted around each other. Each pair carries the same signal i.e. two cores are connected to pin 2 and two are connected to pin 3 on the XLR, but the extra cores and twisting helps the noise levels average out a lot more. Typically used for outside broadcast/live situations where there's a lot of generator power and limited cable route choice so you can't run the audio cables away from power cables etc. The downside is that these cables have a lot more capacitance than a standard mic cable, so whilst you could run a standard 'mic' lead around 100m before the sound starts to suffer, you are at least halving that with star quad.

    And what is good for mic cable is also good for connecting other items of audio equipment together. The main benefit of using balanced connections between equipment, especially in the digital age, is that it allows you to break the ground connection provided by the shield at one end of the cable to cure any ground loops whilst the shield still provides its extra noise protection. With unbalanced connections, you can't break the shield, because it’s also acting as a signal carrier.

    You don't need an XLR to have a balanced cable you can do exactly the same with TRS jacks. And just because there is an XLR or TRS connection doesn't always mean that the connection is balanced and described as above. A TRS cable used for a stereo signal isn't a balanced cable, even though it is probably exactly the same as a mic cable in every other sense.


    But finally, back to guitar leads. The most important cable is the one that you plug into your guitar, so don't go cheap on that one. You don't need to spend a lot to get a good cable, you just need to spend enough, with good jacks and a reputable make of cable in-between them. Don't believe the marketing hype of the mega-expensive brands. I have an £80 (Aus$140) 10 foot boutique brand cable that was included in the case candy when I bought my DG Strat, and it sounds no different to my £20 (Aus$35) cables that have the benefit of Neutrik Silentjacks.

  2. #32
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Cheers for that Simon, I guess my understanding of Balanced and Unbalanced leads isn't as good as I thought it was, the Balanced system is still a new thing to me.

  3. #33
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    It surprises me that balanced guitar wiring has never really been tried. Technically it is definitely possible and would benefit single coil guitars no end, but I suppose the unbalanced input of every guitar amp on the market means nobody (except me) is willing to give it a try...

    One day soon I'll experiment with some TRS leads and a modified el-cheapo strat and possibly my AC18W amp build, and let everyone know how it goes... As a start I'll try with a modified passive DI box right at the amp before getting to excited over the millions of various possible amp balancing modifications.

  4. #34
    This is a great thread! Thanks all for the info and the laughs!

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

  5. #35
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    No worries Derek, I had a lot of fun putting the mini-tutorial together, hope it is of some use to all those who want to make their own instrument leads.


    I always like to welcome and embrace humor in all the threads I start, let's face it, life can be pretty dull and boring at times so why not brighten it up a bit and have a few laughs while we're at it, we can still maintain some semblance of seriousness at the same time though.
    Last edited by DrNomis_44; 10-02-2018 at 11:27 AM.

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  7. #37
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Cheers for posting that link for us Simon, needless to say, the capacitance/m spec of each make of cabling is important since the higher capacitance/m spec will translate to more high-end loss that the guitar signal will experience since the capacitance effectively forms a low-pass filter.

  8. #38
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Indeed. But on the other hand, a very short low capacitance lead straight from the guitar to an amp can sound over-bright. Some capacitance and top-end reduction is often wanted.

    Plus if you have a pedal that's on, or a buffered pedal, the only capacitance you need worry about is in the lead from the guitar to the pedalboard.

    But if you are using a very long lead because you're on a huge stage and want to run about a lot, then certainly go for one of the low very low capacitance cables.

  9. #39
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It was also noted on another forum, that the colour of the lead can make a difference to the capacitance of the lead (different chemical dyes in the plastic having an affect). A studio owner made up two guitar leads, all Neutrik jacks, identical cable manufacture and type apart from the colour - one red and one white. He has someone come in to re-record a guitar part from a previous session in November and wanted to get the same sound. Try as they might, they couldn't get the sound the same. Then someone suggested swapping the lead, so they changed the red one for the white one, and instantly the sound was there again!

  10. #40
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Since I've got a Digital Multimeter that can measure capacitance, I should try measuring the capacitance/m of the Response WB-1530 cable I buy from my local Jaycar Electronics store, would be interesting to see what result/s I get, I think I've got a 1m length spare somewhere.


    For those of you who want to know, a capacitor is formed whenever we have two conductors that are close together, but separated by some kind of insulation material, in the case of shielded cabling used to make instrument leads, we have two conductors, the inner core and the outer braid shielding, and an insulator, the plastic covering of the inner cores.

    Okay, I've just tried measuring the capacitance of 1m of Jaycar Electronics WB-1530 cable, with my Digital Multimeter set to the 20nF range, I got a reading of 0.39nF (390pF), next I disconnected the two probes from the cable and measured how much capacitance the meter probes were contributing to the result, it turned out to be 0.06nF (60pF), if I take 60pF away from 390pF, that gives us a total of 330pF/m (with both of the inner cores connected together).


    Bit of trivia, the basic unit of capacitance is called the "Farad", it was named after Michael Faraday, a famous British scientist and physicist, now the Farad is a very large unit of capacitance, a bit too large for practical use in Electronics but there are 1 Farad capacitors available, the Farad can be broken down into smaller units of capacitance:


    1 Farad = 1000 mili-Farads.

    1 mili-Farad = 1000 micro-Farads.

    1 micro-Farad = 1000 nano-Farads.

    1 nano-Farad = 1000 pico-Farads.
    Last edited by DrNomis_44; 28-02-2018 at 09:27 PM.

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