'TGS special' - junk shop refurb

[Simon Barden]

Maybe he just gives them a good spray then leaves them.

'Tremolo arm' is the correct term.

If the bridge is going to be hard to adjust because of stripped threads, then a cheap replacement is in order. If you want something of a similar quality, but free, then I'm sure that there are plenty of people on the forum who have spare trems from upgraded PBG kits that they'd be glad to give you. Otherwise the Wilkinson trem is the obvious choice with pressed steel saddles and a solid steel trem block. Realparts sell a similar slightly cheaper non-Wilkinson trem with a steel block, but I don't know quite how that compares to a Wilkinson. I've fitted a couple of Wilkinsons before and they are very good trems (though it's not rocket science)

Before you make any decisions, measure the distance between the two E strings at the bridge. On most far-eastern and other cheaper import guitars, the string spacing is narrower than on a real US Strat, so get one that's got a similar string spacing. The Wilkinsons tend to sit between the two standard spacings and generally seem to be OK for both types.

[JohnH]

Ok, great. Thanks again Simon!

[JohnH]

Just took everything out of this guitar so I can start cleaning it up and replacing damaged parts.

I had a couple of questions though. This tremolo looks like it is exactly the same size, so can just drop straight in

https://www.guitarfetish.com/Vintage...ars_p_844.html

But I was also looking at this one

https://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkins...ome_p_895.html

and wondering whether there is any obvious reason it won't work? The body cavity is 43mm deep, and the tremolo block is 40 so I wasn't sure if that is enough clearance. I also wasn't sure whether the tremolo block being less wide was an issue?

Apart from that I figure I'll have to cut the pickguard out a bit to fit it due to the added width, and the string spacing is 10.8 rather than 10.5.

[Simon Barden]

40mm depth block may depend on whether you set the trem for much (if any) up-bending. The rear edge of the trem block will describe the widest arc, with the centre of the arc being the pivot point on the edge of the trem plate (rear of the hole on a standard trem, front of the knife edge on a 2-point trem). The front edge (i.e. that facing the neck) of the trem block won't move as far downwards as the rear edge of the trem block when the trem is pulled up. Both edges will move away from the cavity cover when the trem is depressed. If you do set it to allow for a lot of up-bend, then the trem plate will probably be moved away from the body by a couple of mm to allow for the movement, effectively moving the end of the block away from the plate.

So I don't foresee any problem. If you do find that the movement is bing hindered by the cavity plate, you could always open up the string holes in the plate into an elongated 'racetrack' shape, allowing easier re-stringing access and letting the trem block pop out of the hole rather than catch on the plate. But I really don't think that will be an issue. The trem block will more likely be stopped either by the front edge of the cavity rout, or the trem plate hitting the top of the body, before the block hits the cavity plate.

In saying the above, I've forgotten that you'll also need to allow for the spring hook on top of the block, but I still don't really foresee a problem, and any problem will only occur on severe up-bends.

The vintage trem looks to have a narrowed alloy trem block at the bottom, allowing for more trem movement in the rout, but that has the effect of reducing the distance of the rear edge of the block from the pivot point and so reducing the downwards movement in up-bends.



The Wilkinson trem has a more desirable steel block, but the extra width at the base adds slightly more downwards movement.



If really necessary, you could always file off 1-2mm of the bottom of the block.

[JohnH]

Thanks Simon, that is incredibly helpful and gives me much more confidence. I'll definitely give the Wilkinson a go - at worst it ends up being used in a future build.

[JohnH]

It took forever to get the sticker off, but it's cleaned up pretty well.

Also shielded the cavity last night, and took all the electronics off the pickguard so I can give it a good clean. Two lugs fell off one of the pots when I took it off (and I was being gentle), so the decision to re-do the electronics was clearly a sound one (pun intended)

[WeirdBits]

Resistance is... fragile?

[DarkMark]

A little sad the shark couldn’t stay.

[FrankenWashie]

Thanks Simon, that's good to know. I also don't know where one would acquire such volumes of WD-40, but I'm sure I can find a suitable replacement.

Do you reckon it's worth trying to clean all the rust crud off the bridge? It's pretty crappy - the little hex screws for adjusting the string heights are all at least partly stripped, and it's missing the tremolo arm (I'm not sure what that's actually called), so I was kind of leaning towards buying a cheap replacement.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-4l-lubricant_p6100820

Or you can try Blackwoods for 20L or larger packages.

[JohnH]

Resistance is... fragile?

Only when using the patented potenti(oh no!)meters