There are variations available on Weirdy's method. If the neck is a good fit in the pocket, then some people will screw the neck on rather than clamp it. You can run a straight edge down each side of the neck, draw lines on the body and work out a centreline from that.
But with a Tele, it's often easier to use those marks as a guide rather than gospel. Set the bridge saddles forwards with about 5mm of thread showing at the front. Fit the top and bottom E tuners (don't fit the small anti-turn screws yet) then run string from these to the E saddles on the bridge. The strings should run so that they are parallel with the edge of the neck. That sets the centre position. Measure the scale length (25.5"/648mm) from the neck side of the nut (top E position) to the middle of the top E saddle (where the string will sit). That sets the fore/aft position. Double check both measurements before marking and drilling the fixing screw holes.
Note that 1 or 2 mm difference in the fore/aft position won't matter as there's a lot of intonation adjustment available, but you don't want your strings wandering off to one side of the neck, so that positioning is really important. You should also find that there's a 1mm-2mm gap between the front of the bridge and the edge of the pickguard. They shouldn't be touching (just look at any picture of a real Tele), whereas the control plate should snugly in the cut-out in the pickguard.
Unless the factory have changed their templates, You'll probably find that the bridge pick-up rout is a bit too far forwards, and you may have to extend it backwards slightly to fit the pickup in. You can use a router to do this, though a lot of people simply use a drum sander attachment on a Dremel, or use a chisel. It's all hidden under the bridge plate, so unless you have really bad OCD, it doesn't matter if it looks a bit ragged.
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Originally Posted by Fretworn
