First Build: Red and Black Wilko Johnson Telecaster

[Simon Barden]

The Wilco Johnson Tele does have a fairly dark neck, and the kit maple is pretty light in colour, so I'd say you'd need at least one amber coat. The more coats, the darker the look. Then I'd go over it with several clear coats for more protection.

[Mark Gill]

Hi Mark, this would have to be your own preference. Personally, I prefer clear, but you may prefer amber.
Gav's 12 string is finished in Tru oil, which unfortunately is not available to you in California. The tru oil gives a nice amber look anyway.
You could probably achieve a similar result with danish oil.

Or the Tried and True...?

M

[Mark Gill]

Thanks Simon!

On a slightly different note, do you need to sand the actual fingerboard? Should that be stained or left the original color of the wood (even if you stain the back of the necK)? I assume that should be finished with the Tried and Tue also? Or would you use a different oil?

M

[Mark Gill]

I've also started staining the body with Angelus Leather Dye. Thing is, two applications just got completely sucked up, but it still isn't dead-of-night-goth-black yet. Should I give it another one and finsh the bottle? Or will too much dye mean the Tried and True finish doesn't take very well?

M

[Simon Barden]

A standard Fender neck with maple fretboard will be lacquered all over. But it's up to you as to what you do with the fretboard. You can finish it the same as the back, you can simply wax it, or just apply a suitable oil if you like the bare-wood feeling. Without a solid protective finish on it, the fretboard will probably get dirty very quickly. Acidic sweat on your fingers will corrode the strings over time and the rust and dead skin from your fingers plus general dirt will get pushed into the wood. It's less noticeable on darker rosewood and ebony necks, which is why they are normally unfinished, but shows up more on lighter maple.

I can't see how more dye will stop the finish adhering to the wood. If there was any tendency for this to happen, then 'almost black' is going to be just as bad as 'really black'. The dye won't fill up all the pores in the wood so the finish will still be able to sink in. Only the first couple of finish coats will really sink into the wood. After that, the new finish coats will just stick to the finish beneath it.

[Mark Gill]

Oops—did i just start a totally new thread? Is that allowed (or advisable)?


So I'm giving my maple neck the gentlest of massages with 2000 wet and dry paper. It was already good, but I feel a real silky improvement.

However—and this might be my imagination—but I could swear that this black sandpaper is leaving dirty marks on the neck.

Is there something one could use to wash it (I don't want to use water)..?

Mark

[Simon Barden]

You did, and it's not a great idea. I'll flag it and see if Brendan can append these posts to the original thread. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8320

Use turps, white spirit or metho. You are probably getting the marks because the wet 'n' dry paper isn't very good and the grains are coming unstuck and embedding in the wood grain. I bought cheap wet 'n' dry paper myself from eBay and the same happened to me. I'd suggest trying to find some better stuff.

[Brendan]

Sorted. No worries.

[Simon Barden]

Thanks Brendan!

[Mark Gill]

Thanks Brendan!

THanks Simon and Brendan