Loving this build and looking forward to the headstock reveal!!
Sent from outta space using MartianTalk
Loving this build and looking forward to the headstock reveal!!
Sent from outta space using MartianTalk
Tele Deluxe: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ht=tele+deluxe
Johnny Ramone:https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...=johnny+ramone
ES2V:https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=7455&page=9
DMS-1 Mustang: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...=10548&page=12
AG-1 Perhaps i am Tony Iommi: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...t=11537&page=7
Me too, I'm curious as to how it finishes up.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
'Lots of bad words'. Of course the veneer moved when it was clamped. Tried heating the veneer off with an iron but that was only partially successful. So it's sanding it off time. But it's snowing outside so that will have to wait.
Next time it's veneer on first, then rout the hole with the Dremel. Without pinning it, I can't see a way to prevent the veneer moving when clamped. At least if my hole routing attempt goes wrong, I can then stick another piece of veneer on, whereas I can't easily recover if I try and do the inlay straight into the headstock wood and that goes wrong.
What's the consensus in using the venerable grab-and-hold-it contact cement?
cheers, Mark.
If you dont get it spot on first go theres no moving it, and the only thing that gets it of your hands is petrol but i could work you'd need a third hand to help lay it downOriginally Posted by king casey
Well, the old veneer is off (it was stuck very firmly indeed in most places and the next veneer is now on. I left the very end of the veneer, where it meets the nut ridge, very slightly exposed so I could check it during clamping. This will work, even if it does mean a bit more work. Still, I'm fairly confident about routing out a small circle with the Dremel. It doesn't need to be 100% accurate as any gaps can be filled with superglue and then paint.
I've also been piling on the Tru-Oil layers on the body and it's almost there. I've rubbed back quite a few times, so it's just eliminating the last one or two shiny dips in the finish. Now using TO that's pretty heavily diluted with turps.
So I really just need to complete the headstock, then I can glue the neck on, and mess about with any filler around the neck join, get that coloured to match the rest and then get that covered in TO.
Last edited by Simon Barden; 26-02-2018 at 07:07 PM.
You are very persistent Simon,you must have a lot of patience, I wish you better luck next try with the inlay on the headstock . I can’t wait to see this one finished, should be a winner.
Build-1 ES-3 June 2016 GOTM.
Build-2 IB-1S
Build-3. ES-12G June 2019 GOTM.
Build-4 Gene Simmons axe bass. 43 year project done.
Build-5. TL-1S May 2021 GOTM joint winner.
We shall fight the veneer in the headstocks...
Scott.
And now my scalpel's gone missing so I can't trim the veneer down!
Well, might as well post a few pictures.
Here's the body. It's had several sand downs and all the dips and glossy spots had gone at the last sand. Now had a couple more coats of Tru Oil over the top of that, so it's now going to wait for the neck to be finished so I can glue that on. It's a bit dusty I know, but that all comes off when it's rubbed down.
Well I've stuck the veneer on the headstock, trimmed it down, patched up a couple of areas where the veneer broke off at the corners, routed out a circle for the inlay to fit in, and stuck it down with black superglue. A brief wobble with the router gave a not quite perfect circle, but it really doesn't matter as any gaps just get filled in.
There is a protective layer of plastic film under the clamp - the same film I found out earlier that didn't adhere to superglue.
The clamp is now off and the top of the inlay is now covered in black superglue. I've done the same to the headstock of the ESB-4 bass. It seemed sensible to do them both at the same time.
Because the inlay is stuck to a plastic backing, I drilled holes through the backing in places so that the superglue oozed through the holes (and it did), so should lock the whole inlay piece in place.
Now I just need to wait for the glue to dry hard, then can sand most of it off the top, paint the headstock black with a few coats of black paint, then sand everything flat, hopefully with the inlay design shining through. A bit of gold writing on the headstock, some clear coats, and the neck should all be good to go and stick on the body.
Oh, and I need to stick the new bone nut on before I forget!
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