Newbie with a GPR-1M

[Hesh]

Hi all,

Starting off my first kit with a GPR-1M.

I wanted something with a classic look but double humbucker and it looked like the wiring wasn't going to be too complex!

Have unboxed the kit and done a virtual build, all parts accounted for and away we go!

First two questions to the group please:

1) I want to be sure before I start about the electrics... The GPR has two volume and two tone pots, a three way switch as well as two smaller coil splitting on/off switches.
My question is: are the 5 pre-drilled spaces for the pots and the three way switch? And, if so, where are the coil splitters going to go?

2) I am assuming I will need to drill some holes for the bridge as there are none supplied. Is there a guide for this?


Just wanted to get that out of the way as, if I need to drill more holes I would like to do it before sanding and staining.

Thank you in advance for your help,

Hesh

[Fretworn]

I think you will be the first person to make one of these, but yes if there are no holes drilled you will have to do that yourself. I'd check the pickups you have first to make sure they can be coil split (many of the kit humbuckers can't without alteration.)

I'd also suggest using a hand drill, rather than electric one, to avoid breaking the thin top.

[Andy40]

Peasy as mate.

FW is right, look out for the tear out. try reverse drilling to avoid tear out

[Hesh]

Thanks guys! Appreciate it...

although I've just gone back to the PB site to re-check on some of the specs... and the GPR is not longer there?? Does this mean it is being discontinued? Can I still get support on here for the build?

Cheers

[Simon Barden]

It should re-appear. It should have been advertised as an advanced kit because of the need to drill post holes, and as you've found out, the wiring harness supplied (2 x volume and 2x tone pots ) doesn't work for the two control holes + 2 mini-switch holes. There's a reasonable amount of soldering required. There's also no suitable wiring diagram on the site at the moment. Adam knows about it and should be sorting this out.

It's not a beginners kit and things like post holes really need access to a pillar drill with a throat that's large enough to reach across the guitar body. If you are unhappy, email Adam and I'm sure he'll sort you out with an alternative kit. Alternatively he could probably arrange for post holes to be drilled for you and a suitable wiring harness made up. Or you could progress with the kit as it is and see how far you get with help from the forum. It al depends how good your woodworking and soldering skills are, and how well you can read a guitar wiring diagram.

You can still access the kit details via eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pit-Bull-Gu....c100012.m1985

[neverwas]

Hi Hesh

I've just received the same kit and will put up some pics of mine to show what we are talking about if you don't mind.
There is a bit of a mismatch with the supplied wiring and the control holes in the body.

The biggest hole is for the selector switch, the two holes on the bridge side of the f-hole are for a volume and tone (one of each) and the smallest holes are for the coil split switches. The pickups are two wire and not able to be coil split as they are. It's up to you if you want to coil split or enlarge those holes and just have two vol and two tone, just make sure the pots have room to fit next to the side of the body (inside the f-hole) before you get the drill out. As for wiring the mini switches, not sure about that, if our resident wiring guru Weirdbits sees this he can shed some light on that for you (and me).


cont..

[Simon Barden]

I didn't know about the two conductor pickups. I'm sure Adam can fix you up with some 4-conductor ones otherwise the mini-toggle switching won't work.

[neverwas]

By my measurement the scale length is 25". Did a quick mock up to give an idea where to position the bridge.
Put the neck in the pocket and sit the neck pup in place making sure the mounting ring covers the rout and push the neck firmly against it.

This is what it may look like with the pup removed, and from the rear.

And where the bridge will sit behind the bridge pup.

Don't take this as gospel, measure measure measure yours to be sure you get the bridge in the right place, also the low E side post hole needs to be set back slightly to allow for proper intonation. As the kit description said these are for more experienced builders because of the need to drill the bridge and fixed tailpiece post holes. You may be more than capable to do all this, just don't sand the veneer much at all, it is very thin and you can sand through surprisingly quickly.

Oh yeah, add lots of pics when you have something you're not sure about, or just to show how it's all going.

Grant

[neverwas]

Aaaaaanndd Simon beats me to it.

[Hesh]

Hi all,

Thank you so much for the guidance. I have been away so not checking the thread...

I am torn at the moment in that I absolutely love the look of the GPR but am now getting a little nervous as all these issues are coming up. I think I'll email Adam about getting some post holes drilled. If not, is there anyone in the east of Melbourne who can help me out with getting the bridge right?

Thanks again

Hesh