Yep same, I use wet and dry up to 2000, mostly because its what I'm used to. Then cutting compound followed by polish.
Yep same, I use wet and dry up to 2000, mostly because its what I'm used to. Then cutting compound followed by polish.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
OK Thanks, i’ll do it for frets and neck finish !
It's simply all about making your life easier. P2000 is slightly finer than Micromesh 2400, so if you do get some Micromesh for the frets, then you should find that it's a lot less effort to continue after P2000 with Micromesh 3200 up to 12000 (I'd use it wet) as you then have to do a lot less rubbing with a cutting/polishing compound to get the same results.
I'll buy the Birchwood Tru oil !
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00...BIXGZZ3N&psc=1
"Isn't funk the most beautiful creation of man?"
- Volgar, 2018
__________________________________________________ __________
#1st build - JMA-1L
#2nd build will certainly be a custom kit close to the GR-1SFG
And here's the new nut !
I do not know if this is serious but it is a little bit raised from the point of view of the last picture!
Apart from that it fits perfectly (I can not remove it at all, without glue)
I also started to create the future design of the headstock.
I also noticed that there was a small task (of what, I do not know) and that the wood had like little holes all along
"Isn't funk the most beautiful creation of man?"
- Volgar, 2018
__________________________________________________ __________
#1st build - JMA-1L
#2nd build will certainly be a custom kit close to the GR-1SFG
The neck is rosewood, so it has natural pores in the grain. It's supposed to look like that. If you want a perfectly smooth neck, then you'd need to look at something like ebony for a dark fingerboard, or maple for a light one.
But rosewood fingerboards with small pores in the grain have made great guitars for a very long time. I have a 1965 Gibson acoustic guitar with a Brazilian rosewood board, supposedly the most sought-after rosewood for fingerboards and no longer commercially available. That has much deeper pores in the grain than that, yet it still feels fine to play. If it feels a bit rough under your fingers then a rub down with some fine grit sandpaper (P600 or P1000) should make it smoother.
I'm not sure what that stain is, but it might come out or become unnoticeable when you rub the board down with lemon oil as the board will darken in colour. Lemon oil is also a good fretboard cleaner. You could also try rubbing the stain with alcohol or turpentine - anything that may act as a solvent.
Indeed !Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I had never paid attention to this detail with my other guitars!
Thank you
Today I put lemon oil on the fretboard,
Here’s a before / after
Does anyone have a cure for oil stains on the maple?
Most of that will evaporate or soak in within a few days, but you can try removing it with turpentine, white spirit or methylated spirits and a clean cloth. All of those will evaporate quite quickly but they should thin the oil and get a lot off on the cloth first. I'm not sure which of those is best though.
Lemon oil does make that fretboard look good though.
Ok, thanks !
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